RIDOX Replica Garage Fan Club - Suspended

[danbojte]

Hint for all: Same type Rims on GT AUTO are always in order of appearance biggest INSET first, gradually going toward OFFSET.
I.e. If first of rim is having inset 45, second can have 25, third 0, fourth - 15.
Numbers aren't real, but used for show the idea.

Just to helping on choosing best rims for driver habits to drive, or matching used camber/suspension.

I stared yesterday at the versions of the Ozy Racing tyres, but I couldn't see the difference between them.

 

[danbojte]

With the luck I'm having winning races I'll probably get -21 points.

So lemme get it straight, for example, you probably explained this before, after the driver in front of you cut the first corner you can go? Or its everyone going at the same time?

If you edit the post it won't send alert. I saw this accidentally.
Edited: For every driver, after hitting the first corner's apex, it is Race!

 

[Pete05]

If you edit the post it won't send alert. I saw this accidentally.
For every driver, after the first corner's apex, it is Race!

@danbojte
You raise an excellent point Dan 👍
Anyone who edits a post should make a post with the following as a minimum:

Edited ^

 

[joaosoarescso]

If you edit the post it won't send alert. I saw this accidentally.
For every driver, after the first corner's apex, it is Race!

Slow in Fast out, got it so there's no ramming. Sweet

 

[danbojte]

Edited ^

 

[ALB123]

I still don't get it danbojte. My car matches the exact specs listed in the tune sheet without even having to drive a single mile. I bought the car, applied the oil change, which gives it a bump in HP/PP and that matches what Ridox's spec sheet asks for.

 

[danbojte]

I still don't get it danbojte. My car matches the exact specs listed in the tune sheet without even having to drive a single mile. I bought the car, applied the oil change, which gives it a bump in HP/PP and that matches what Ridox's spec sheet asks for.

After driving it approximately 300km [...], you'll have an abrupt decrease of PP and hp.

 

[OdeFinn]

I stared yesterday at the versions of the Ozy Racing tyres, but I couldn't see the difference between them.

Some rims are really close to other, I have problems to separate them when power steering is off, but when it's on there are noticeable differences. When power steering is off wheel dampening is so big at it masks small differences and it "guides" more your hands and you adapt quicker different turning required by tires. One clear visible difference isn't masked, braking distance difference.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

I still don't get it danbojte. My car matches the exact specs listed in the tune sheet without even having to drive a single mile. I bought the car, applied the oil change, which gives it a bump in HP/PP and that matches what Ridox's spec sheet asks for.

Breaking in or driving it past 200km distance, will ensure that after you do another oil change. the car will be in good shape. If you use brand new car for the race, just oil change and low km, it will wear out/lose power as you get closer to 300km distance, if this happens during the race, you will have a car that is not competitive

 

[DaBomm4]

From what I understand, the oil change boost only lasts roughly the 300 km you guys are talking about, so every single time you complete an oil change, 300 km later you will be back near the same performance numbers as before an oil change. Also, GT6 does not seem to have a "break in" period for brand new cars, unlike GT5.

 

[danbojte]

From what I understand, the oil change boost only lasts roughly the 300 km you guys are talking about, so every single time you complete an oil change, 300 km later you will be back near the same performance numbers as before an oil change. Also, GT6 does not seem to have a "break in" period for brand new cars, unlike GT5.

No, it will not happen every 300km. The second and next necessary oil changes will be much longer. It is happening only once for 300km and only if you do an initial oil change without driving the car, immediately after you buy it.

 

[danbojte]

Please read Here.

 

[ALB123]

Wow...I never realized that, about the oil. What happens if you buy a car from the dealership and you do not chance the oil immediately? You drive around with the stock PP/hp for a few hundred miles..will the power start dropping like it would if you applied an oil change first? I've never noticed power dropping in any of my cars...

 

[DaBomm4]

From what I read from that link, oil boost lasts 300 km while deterioration from oil after the boost is gone is 6000 km after the start of the oil change...

 

[DaBomm4]

2 – Are oil changes worth your time?

Unless you are absolutely set on increasing a car’s HP, no…oil changes are a great waste of time. You can completely avoid them by performing an engine overhaul every 5000 km since the engine starts to deteriorate at 5300 km (300 km after the oil begins to deteriorate) and the overhaul includes an oil change. If you are one of those who think that stock includes the 5% hp boost and you are not allowed to increase HP permanently via an upgrade, then you will have to change your oil every 200 km or so which means up to 25 times per 5000 km! Wouldn’t it be simpler to install an ECU (over similar small upgrade) and apply power limiter? Yes; but then your car definitely wouldn’t be considered stock. Funny how a permanent 5% HP boost is not considered stock, but frequent magical oil changes is still considered stock.

This quote suggests that if you want to maintain the oil boost to change oil every 200 km, to avoid the boost deteriorating.

Also, sorry for the double post, Windows Phone not so great on GTP.

 

[danbojte]

This quote suggests that if you want to maintain the oil boost to change oil every 200 km, to avoid the boost deteriorating.

Also, sorry for the double post, Windows Phone not so great on GTP.

No problem for double post. 👍
What he says is that you don't have to do that at every 200km and it's enough to do it again at the first 300km and then after 5000km an engine overhaul.

A tuner who ask for an initial oil change want to take advantage of the power boost gained together with the torque level and using only specific upgrade parts.

PS: IRL we change the oil in a quiet similar way.

 

[OdeFinn]

Please read Here.

From what I read from that link, oil boost lasts 300 km while deterioration from oil after the boost is gone is 6000 km after the start of the oil change...

Oil change boost 5% last 200km, between 200-300km power drops gradually back to stock. Doesn't matter what you do, 5% boost starts dropping after 200 km.

But is oil deterioration dropping HP below stock after that 5000-6000km?

Dunno, only way what I have understand to keep car long on same hp is leaving out oil change, eventually you do it with engine repair what includes oil change, does it then boost above stock for next 200-300km?

 

[danbojte]

But is oil deterioration dropping HP below stock after that 5000-6000km?

No, not below stock.

does it then boost above stock for next 200-300km?

For the next 5000km.

 

[DaBomm4]

@OdeFinn @danbojte I think Dan might be interpreting it incorrectly and OdeFinn interpreting it correctly. From my experience in the first FITT challenge on GT6, I had a few hundred km on one of my cars, and as I tested for the challenge, I did an oil change tune then had to drive the 300 km to burn off the boost from the oil change.

EDIT: When I get home I could run a few tests to try and figure out if it has changed.

Edit 2: Is it ok that I use SSRX for said testing above?

Edit 3:

6 – The Oil Change HP Boost:

The oil change boosts HP by 5% over the stock level on all cars:
NASCAR car – Stock HP = 849 HP – Boosted HP = 892 HP – 43/849 = 0.05
Veyron ’13 – Stock HP = 1261 HP – Boosted HP = 1324 HP – 63/1261 = 0.05

The Oil Change boost resets the Oil Deterioration Gauge and the boost can be done anytime.

There is a myth where you must do the oil change as soon as you have purchased a new car or else you might lose the boost, but this is not true: e.g. I did an oil change on a NASCAR car for the first time after the car had over 1800 PD miles on it and the boost was still 5% bringing the HP up to 892 HP.

The Oil Change boost lasts for 200 km and then drops linearly 1% (of the HP gain) for every km driven from 200 km to 300 km.

Early test (in PD miles [before I knew better]) with NASCAR Car:

1324 hp – 1261 hp = 63 hp boost (5% boost)

Oil change was performed at 2,064.3 miles on car.
Drove on Route X = 18.82 PD miles

HP – Mileage on Car – Distance driven & Total Distance Driven in PD miles
892 HP – 2,084.2 – 19.9 26.3
892 HP – 2,104.5 – 20.3 40.2
892 HP – 2,124.3 – 19.8 60.0
892 HP – 2,144.7 – 20.4 80.4
892 HP – 2,164.3 – 19.6 100.0
892 HP – 2,184.3 – 20.0 120.0 = 193.1 km lost 11 hp
881 HP – 2,204.6 – 20.3 140.3 = 225.8 km lost 14 hp
867 HP – 2,224.4 – 19.8 160.1 = 257.6 km lost 12 hp
855 HP – 2,243.8 – 19.4 179.5 = 288.9 km lost 12 hp
849 HP – 2,263.0 – 19.2 198.7 = 319.8 km lost 6 hp

From what I understand with this test that @Hastatus did is that the oil boost always deteriorates at the 200-300 km range, it doesn't matter if it is the first oil change, or an oil change done later. Just trying to understand the difference we are trying to discuss.

 

[OdeFinn]

I have weird memories of power dropping below stock.. Why.. Maybe this is just bad memory, I'm having almost all my cars with oil change done, bit like tradition to fix engine and restore body rigidity of all my actively used cars.

That 5000 km thing is engine deterioration, and if I read that right you can have -5% power from stock due this.

 

[DaBomm4]

I have weird memories of power dropping below stock.. Why.. Maybe this is just bad memory, I'm having almost all my cars with oil change done, bit like tradition to fix engine and restore body rigidity of all my actively used cars.

This is not just a memory, unless my memory is the same one. Ex. if you do an oil change at 0 km, then the first 300 km will loose the 5% from the oil boost, then as you reach the 5,000 km mark, you have entered the oil's deterioration stage for the next 1,000 km.

- There is a total linear loss of 5% HP while the oil deteriorates over the 1000 km.
- Once the oil has fully deteriorated, there is no more HP loss due to bad oil.

Then there is the engine deterioration.

- The engine begins to deteriorate at 5,300 km and an ‘engine overhaul is recommended’ at 10,300 km.
- The engine deterioration continues after the recommended overhaul light turns red (unlike with oil deterioration) so that there is continued HP loss until 15,300 km.
- There is a total linear loss of 5% HP while the engine deteriorates over the 10,000 km.

 

[OdeFinn]

@DaBomm4 so overall -10% from stock power can be achieved..

Or even more with that permanent deterioration.

 

[DaBomm4]

@DaBomm4 so overall -10% from stock power can be achieved..

From how I understand Hastatus, yes.

 

[ALB123]

It is so stupid that doing an oil change on a brand new car increases it's horsepower & torque. So unrealistic.

 

[OdeFinn]

Uff.. Minimum .5 sec slower on all sectors, some sectors nearly second against 0 ballast(64kg), few over second, slower over 6kmh on uphill part speed, car has no power to pull on 5th gear there, just revving 4th only choice, zero ballast pulls in 5th. Last straight nearly equal speed, but gaining it way slower.. This seems to be only way to solve as hoping my driving will save tires and fuel last 'coz no pit stops coming..

 

[ALB123]

I think I'm going to go run a couple of practice laps. I couldn't really do any last night due to headache...but I think I can squeeze a few laps in now. 👍

 

[ALB123]

Oh boy... Ridox did a 9:40.xxx?! Ay Carumba!!! I just did 3 laps around Nurburgring V Circuit.

Lap 1) 10:31.717 (coming out of the pits)
Lap 2) 10:08.143
Lap 3) 10:07.188

This doesn't bode well for me.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Oh boy... Ridox did a 9:40.xxx?! Ay Carumba!!! I just did 3 laps around Nurburgring V Circuit.

Lap 1) 10:31.717 (coming out of the pits)
Lap 2) 10:08.143
Lap 3) 10:07.188

This doesn't bode well for me.

No no no, 9:4xxx ( high 48s ) ( this was offline ) Online should be 9:5xx. If the condition is permissible, just enough fuel, fresh tires, 9:43s might be possible on a very good run ( close to the real life best lap in 2015 )

 

[ALB123]

I'm still OVER 10s behind you...on my best lap. Although, I have to run 20 extra kg of ballast - but that shouldn't equate to 10s...

 

[ALB123]

EDIT: Double post