RIDOX Replica Garage Fan Club - Suspended

  • Thread starter danbojte
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:D I understand the intention :) I tested with -45 on 1207kg, 64kg ballast, and it was still fine for me :D 9:4xx at Nurburgring Type V on 1st lap and 8:13s at Nordshleife. The only difference was I need to trail brake aggressively and hit the speed on entry and apex accurately, then I can apply early throttle to with ease.
 
:D I understand the intention :) I tested with -45 on 1207kg, 64kg ballast, and it was still fine for me :D 9:4xx at Nurburgring Type V on 1st lap and 8:13s at Nordshleife. The only difference was I need to trail brake aggressively and hit the speed on entry and apex accurately, then I can apply early throttle to with ease.
What? 9:4xxx at type V on SM tyres? :scared: Maybe you forgot to lower the power to 227hp? :P :D
 
Hint for all: Same type Rims on GT AUTO are always in order of appearance biggest INSET first, gradually going toward OFFSET.
I.e. If first of rim is having inset 45, second can have 25, third 0, fourth - 15.
Numbers aren't real, but used for show the idea.

Just to helping on choosing best rims for driver habits to drive, or matching used camber/suspension.
 
:D I understand the intention :) I tested with -45 on 1207kg, 64kg ballast, and it was still fine for me :D 9:4xx at Nurburgring Type V on 1st lap and 8:13s at Nordshleife. The only difference was I need to trail brake aggressively and hit the speed on entry and apex accurately, then I can apply early throttle to with ease.
Try 144 kg on left side switching point on ballast, on -22 and you see how it pushes.
Did you go on SM or SS ties?
 
Hint for all: Same type Rims on GT AUTO are always in order of appearance biggest INSET first, gradually going toward OFFSET.
I.e. If first of rim is having inset 45, second can have 25, third 0, fourth - 15.
Numbers aren't real, but used for show the idea.

Just to helping on choosing best rims for driver habits to drive, or matching used camber/suspension.
You mean there is difference between the Silver, Black an Bronze versions for example? :scared:
 
Well, then is there a difference between them in car's handling. :confused:
Slightly, not big, but if some is helping on high speed cornering then it's not helping on slow speed and vise versa. If you get advantage on somewhere you'll get disadvantage on other places.
Like i said earlier four choices, tight springs, high camber and more offset are working on high speed, high inset might help tight cornering. I'm probably taking 2nd or 3rd, not sure yet.
 
What? 9:4xxx at type V on SM tyres? :scared: Maybe you forgot to lower the power to 227hp? :P :D

Was on SM, 227HP, it took me 1:35s to get from Type V start line to Nordschleife start line, then about 8:13s to finish, so high 9:4xx :) With SS, it should took less than 1:34s to reach the Nordschleife start line on Type V.

The GT86 Cup can go flat out at Flugplatz on SM :P I have wrote my sector times did I ? 50s 1st sector at Nordschleife :D
 
You think at you could push same pace online too? Flying second lap with one lap wear on tires?

Maybe ... not sure :lol: The GT86 almost never have red tires though, so that may help lessen the wear rate and less fuel on 2nd lap should help. The 8:13s at Nordschleife is not good lap, a few corner and after 1st carousel, I had several slow entry ( too much lift off/brake ) and carrying less speed, so online should be in this region lap time, so 9:5x should be possible on SM.
 
Gotta run few test laps, my earlier test on online was giving 10:15, 10:05, 10:05, all high end, 30:27 total. Times are from 3 laps race, with my +80kg, but car balance has changed after that test, need to test what time will be now.
 
8FHrP3ZkKXN16GMk5_0[1].jpg

TMG GT86 CS-V3 Cup Car @danbojte
 
I am extremely confused. The tune for the car that we are using this weekend lists:

Specs
Horsepower: 227 HP at 7300 RPM
Torque : 166.6 ft-lb at 6800 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1207 kg ( running weight )
Ballast : 64 kg
Ballast Position : -35
Weight Distribution : 54 / 46 as the real car spec.
Performance Points: 426

So, we've got 64 kg of ballast that is in Position -35. However, I must run with additional "success ballast" this weekend. The instructions for the success ballast is 20 kg at -28. I'm assuming that means I must add a total of 93 kg of ballast, but I have no idea what position to set the ballast to.

What do I need to do to be compliant this weekend, @danbojte?
 
I am extremely confused. The tune for the car that we are using this weekend lists:

Specs
Horsepower: 227 HP at 7300 RPM
Torque : 166.6 ft-lb at 6800 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1207 kg ( running weight )
Ballast : 64 kg
Ballast Position : -35
Weight Distribution : 54 / 46 as the real car spec.
Performance Points: 426

So, we've got 64 kg of ballast that is in Position -35. However, I must run with additional "success ballast" this weekend. The instructions for the success ballast is 20 kg at -28. I'm assuming that means I must add a total of 93 kg of ballast, but I have no idea what position to set the ballast to.

What do I need to do to be compliant this weekend, @danbojte?
:) You must use a total ballast of 84kg (64 + 20) at position -28 to keep the original balance (54/46). :)

:cheers:
 
OMG... I can't believe I wrote 93 kg. That's what I get for talking on the phone and posting on GTP at the same time. Okay, so I put it at -28. Beautiful... 👍 I just bought a new 2013 Toyota 86 "Racing" edition. I'm going to set it up according to Fan Club specs and take it out for a few laps. I really, really like the 86/BRZ/FRS. There is a lot you can do with these cars.
 
Count me in for the second race, going to buy and build the GT86 Cup, I'm a little confused about the rules but after I read it a couple of times I'll get it eventually

Edit: is this going to be like JGTC championship? And will there be more like same 86 on different tracks?
 
OMG... I can't believe I wrote 93 kg. That's what I get for talking on the phone and posting on GTP at the same time. Okay, so I put it at -28. Beautiful... 👍 I just bought a new 2013 Toyota 86 "Racing" edition. I'm going to set it up according to Fan Club specs and take it out for a few laps. I really, really like the 86/BRZ/FRS. There is a lot you can do with these cars.
Excellent! 👍 I advice to drive around 300km to break the car due to the initial oil change. 👍
Is it me or are the online servers offline? I was doing some sweet practices runs and got disconnected
It's because of the scheduled maintenance.
Count me in for the second race, going to buy and build the GT86 Cup, I'm a little confused about the rules but after I read it a couple of times I'll get it eventually

Edit: is this going to be like JGTC championship? And will there be more like same 86 on different tracks?
It's good you'll race again. 👍
It's simple. Read it patiently. ;)

No, we'll not race the same car, even if it's not so bad idea.
We'll race like usual, different cars on different tracks, will collect points and when a month ends a Champion of the Month will be declared.

:cheers:
 
Excellent! 👍 I advice to drive around 300km to break the car due to the initial oil change. 👍

It's because of the scheduled maintenance.

It's good you'll race again. 👍
It's simple. Read it patiently. ;)

No, we'll not race the same car, even if it's not so bad idea.
We'll race like usual, different cars on different tracks, will collect points and when a month ends a Champion of the Month will be declared.

:cheers:


With the luck I'm having winning races I'll probably get -21 points.

So lemme get it straight, for example, you probably explained this before, after the driver in front of you cut the first corner you can go? Or its everyone going at the same time?
 
Excellent! 👍 I advice to drive around 300km to break the car due to the initial oil change. 👍
I don't understand...When you buy a car from the dealership and immediately pay for an oil change - are you saying that I then need to "break in" the oil or something? Will the car drive "better" if I break it in?? Whats going on here?! :grumpy: Why has this information been kept from me?!?! :mad: :mad: Who are you all working for? FBI? CIA? NSA? :crazy: :yuck: :mad: :lol: :lol:
 
I don't understand...When you buy a car from the dealership and immediately pay for an oil change - are you saying that I then need to "break in" the oil or something? Will the car drive "better" if I break it in?? Whats going on here?! :grumpy: Why has this information been kept from me?!?! :mad: :mad: Who are you all working for? FBI? CIA? NSA? :crazy: :yuck: :mad: :lol: :lol:

In practice or real world, after the engine gets its first oil change, the one that comes from factory is a little thicker to remove any metal from friction inside the engine, so yeah its supposed to run better
 
These are the sector times when I tested at Nordschleife :

Ran a test lap with the GT86 CS V3 Cup 2013 at Nordschleife, 8:13.026 with lots of room to improve as it was on 1st lap. Did 50s 1st sector and 1:29s 2nd sector, 2:01s 3rd sector, 2:59s 4th sector, 3:45s 5th sector, 4:19s 6th sector, 5:15s 7th sector, 5:55s 8th sector, 6:29s 9th sector, 7:17s 10th sector, 7:45s 11th sector ( last )
 
I don't understand...When you buy a car from the dealership and immediately pay for an oil change - are you saying that I then need to "break in" the oil or something? Will the car drive "better" if I break it in?? Whats going on here?! :grumpy: Why has this information been kept from me?!?! :mad: :mad: Who are you all working for? FBI? CIA? NSA? :crazy: :yuck: :mad: :lol: :lol:
In GT6 if you change the oil immediately you'll gain an instant PP and hp increase then you'll setup the car as in the tune sheet. After driving it approximately 300km (do this until it won't decrease anymore), you'll have an abrupt decrease of PP and hp. To met the tune sheet settings you have to increase the Power Limiter which is not good because it'll change the overall setup. This is why the car with initial oil change must be breaked.

Long story short: Buy the car, change the oil if the tune requires it - drive it until the PP and hp won't decrease anymore (around 300km) - change the oil again and you'll have the initial specs like in the tune sheet.

And also this, yes:
In practice or real world, after the engine gets its first oil change, the one that comes from factory is a little thicker to remove any metal from friction inside the engine, so yeah its supposed to run better

:cheers:

Edit:
These are the sector times when I tested at Nordschleife :

Ran a test lap with the GT86 CS V3 Cup 2013 at Nordschleife, 8:13.026 with lots of room to improve as it was on 1st lap. Did 50s 1st sector and 1:29s 2nd sector, 2:01s 3rd sector, 2:59s 4th sector, 3:45s 5th sector, 4:19s 6th sector, 5:15s 7th sector, 5:55s 8th sector, 6:29s 9th sector, 7:17s 10th sector, 7:45s 11th sector ( last )
👍 I couldn't go under 10 min yet, but I keep training when I have the time. ;)

:cheers:
 
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