SimVibe (SimXperience)

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lopsided
Hi Carson, Well if I can only run 2/3 and I want to use 4 Mini LSE's then you're saying I still have to have another amp?

If so, I'm back to square one. My space is so limited as it is and I was going to put this huge AVR in my HT center and run wires from there. Not ideal but it was collecting dust and I figured it would save me money.
If I need yet another amp I'd prefer to ditch it and simply have two small ones and forget this monster.

Problem is I have people suggesting high dollar amps, others telling me this will do the trick. I have no way of knowing who's right. I don't understand why the one's like the Pyle's I mention won't work or perform the task adequately.?? I need to grasp why a Pyle that's rated for 120 watts and 4 ohm, each with 2 channels... won't do the job of powering two LFE's. I'm not arguing, I'm trying to learn. I simply don't understand.
Click to expand...

The Pyle amp with two channels will work, at 4 ohms you can use it to power 2 4ohms bass shakers like a bk mini or a Aura pro.
I use an AV receiver to power 3 Aura pro's and it is more that powerful enough at 50-60% volume to really shake the feet off you. I also run dedicated power amps for BK mini's a BKA and a pair of clark 209's, so I can say from experience that the AV receiver is powerful enough to give you a really good effect, in my case it is as good as the different power amps. I actually had it running the BKA and a 1500w subwoofer for a while. But for some reason the smaller Aura pro's and BK mini's were very sore on it. Running them at the volume needed for a decent effect caused the amp to overheat and clip.
I understand where your coming from Bailey getting conflicting advice, Can you use your av receiver? Yes but just because it has 5.1 or 7.1 doesn't mean it is capable of powering 4 transducers you can always try, start off with a couple and when you can afford to add a couple more. You'll know if the receiver is up to it or not if you can run it as hard with 4 as you did with 2. I doubt it will be as good, I'm sure it will probably clip before you get it up to a decent volume.
It's really up to you at the end of the day how much you want to spend and as you say it's also space dependent.
In my case when I realised I needed more amps to get the desired effect I opted for a £90 two channel power amp which in hindsight I wish I'd of spent more on an Inuke as it has built in EQ and when I seen/heard it in action was blown away.
My advice is if you can afford it, get dedicated amps for whatever bass shakers you plan on getting. In your case the Pyle's to save space might be right for you.
HoiHman
The whole thing with inpedeance and connecting the buttkickers to the amp, without blowing anything up has always been a kind of mistery for me.

I managed to get all my 7 buttkickers working, but i would like to add one extra mini LFE to my rig.

So this question is for you experts on this issuse:

I have 2 mini LFE's connected to one channel of my dayton A500 amp, is it in any way possible to connect a third mini LFE and still have the right impedeance ?
Click to expand...

Henk lol how the hell did you manager that? Are they running in a series or in parallel?
 
@left888 ;)

I have a total of 7 LFE's

4 mini LFE SE connected to a SLA4 amp (4x120w) (chassis)
2 mini LFE connected to the left channel of the Dayton Behinger A500 (rpm/gearshift)
1 Buttkicker Advanced connected to the right channel of the Behinger A500 (impacts)
1 BKG2 kit at the pedals (rpm/gearshift)

@Carson79 ;)

If i rember correct :

The mini LFE's are 4 Ohm each and are connected paralel, which results in a 2 Ohm resistance.


Does anybody know if it's possible to connect a third mini LFE while still keep the resistance at 2 Ohm?
 
I'm sure you already know about this document mate but I'll post it for those that might find it useful.
I remember in the beginning connecting the AP's in parallel on the AV receiver, but it wasn't providing enough juice lol
More Power would of probably made a big difference.
 

Attachments

  • Tactile Transducer Setup Guide for iRacing 2-14-12.pdf
    1 MB · Views: 93
Alrighty boys keep talking, I'm making some progress.

@darren, Yea, I am building this for use with SimVibe. When I heard of SimVibe I started to look into it since I've owned and enjoyed BK gamers since 2007ish, albeit for reasons other than your girlfriend. :P

So, my plan was to use 4 Mini LFE's in Chassis mode on my 8020 frame. I wanted transducers that could be felt without spending more than $100 a pop, also, these would mount/move uber easy on my frame.

A Deal??
Well I find this deal: 2 Mini LFE SE transducers plus it happens to come with the amp Darren mentioned... the Dayton APA 150 for $259. That means I'm only paying $59 above what I assumed 2 transducers would run AND I get a seemingly more suitable amp.

Am I overlooking something?
Bailey
 
Looks like a good deal. It just boils down to power the mini's operate from a minimum of 50w to 250w the amp only provides 75w per channel.
But I can't argue with the good value of the deal. The same amp is listed in partsexpress for $125
Although this is a bit more powerful and only $77 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-802
At 100w per channel
Just noticed the free shipping from bk too, lol it's a good deal but you might find the amp lacking a little.
Once you've made your mind up and are running it a while you'll look back and think I wish I got the amp with more power lol tactile is addictive like that. But don't just listen to me I'm only speaking from my own perspective
 
Carson, as to the "looking back" thing :) ... I don't mind spending more money if it's truly needed but I HATE wasting it. I don't want to do this in upgrades where I buy an amp or transducer only to replace it later but I'm still unclear on what I need and why, see what I mean?
Hence, the continued homework.
I'm also thinking that the compactness of my rig and the fact that it's made of aluminum profile probably means it won't require some of the force other rigs might.?

 
I think I recognise that rig and the the name now from over on Insidesimracing? I was looking at your build thread only recently and really loved the black aluminium and the fact you were able to get your partner to fabricate brackets :lol:
Now if I were wanting a new amp (which I will soon) This is the one I'll be getting. http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/NU1000.aspx
Seen it in action at Mr Latte's and was really impressed as not only is it powerful, but because buttkickers and other brand's of shaker are all very noisy this great piece of kit stops the unwanted sounds.
It's got built in EQ, I know that simvibe can do this as well but it's also makes the Buttkickers bottom out and this amp will correct that while offering you all the power you'll ever need.
If Latte were about these days he could explain himself.
@LogiForce has an Inuke perhaps he could tell you more of it's benefits?
I know he has simvbe and thinks the Inuke is a great amp
 
Carson, I can go for that amp. I understand now how the lower wattage amps I was considering for the LFE which is 50-250 watts would be lacking. I did not know that when I started digging for information. The BK deal for $259 sure looked sweet but if it won't cut it I'll pass.

So my plan is to either use the two LFE's with one under the brakes and one under the back in Extensions mode OR use them as Left & Right in Chassis instead of all 4 corners and use the BK gamer under the seat in Extensions mode.

I only want to buy 2 transducers to start and make sure I/we/ok... he can handle the noise. lol (Rig is in the family room so I have to be considerate)
Looks like I've read somewhere that a better quality amp helps cut down noise?

Could use suggestions on where to mount and whether I should use some rubber etc. between the LFE and the 8020.

Thanks.

Bailey
 
Another word of caution Bailey, some people can't get extension mode to work with chassis mode in Sim Vibe, in fact Sim Vibe recommends that the 2 shouldn't be run together. I have a conflict with my two sound cards (2 Asus) and the sound card on my mother board as well, so I only run chassis ATM plus 2 BK2's. I had an external sound card and it did allow both extension and chassis to work together, it gave up the ghost after a couple of months (made in China), the external sound cards cost to much for me to invest in another one.

If I recall Hoihman has both of them working with no problems. I tried to quiz him on how he did it but ... in iRacing under the sound option he said he left this as the default setting, while I had to select my sound card in order for it to work for me. Perhaps another conflict with my mother board?

Now as you read, Carson has no problem using a standard A/V amp to power his Sim Vibe, while I don't doubt him, it goes to show us what works for one person does not necessarily work for another. I have witness this very thing in the iRacing forums, advice is all over the map. I understand your reluctance to start purchasing amps and shakers without knowing if it will work for you. I suppose you can start with your A/V amp and see if it works and then take it from there. With so many options for making a PC, mother boards, sound cards etc, it can be a hit or miss proposition.

Carson79
I'm sure you already know about this document mate but I'll post it for those that might find it useful.
I remember in the beginning connecting the AP's in parallel on the AV receiver, but it wasn't providing enough juice lol
More Power would of probably made a big difference.
Click to expand...

That document is quite old, before Sim Vibe was released. It still has good information on it though but some of it is inaccurate for Sim Vibe.



Carson79
The Pyle amp with two channels will work, at 4 ohms you can use it to power 2 4ohms bass shakers like a bk mini or a Aura pro.
I use an AV receiver to power 3 Aura pro's and it is more that powerful enough at 50-60% volume to really shake the feet off you. I also run dedicated power amps for BK mini's a BKA and a pair of clark 209's, so I can say from experience that the AV receiver is powerful enough to give you a really good effect, in my case it is as good as the different power amps. I actually had it running the BKA and a 1500w subwoofer for a while. But for some reason the smaller Aura pro's and BK mini's were very sore on it. Running them at the volume needed for a decent effect caused the amp to overheat and clip.
I understand where your coming from Bailey getting conflicting advice, Can you use your av receiver? Yes but just because it has 5.1 or 7.1 doesn't mean it is capable of powering 4 transducers you can always try, start off with a couple and when you can afford to add a couple more. You'll know if the receiver is up to it or not if you can run it as hard with 4 as you did with 2. I doubt it will be as good, I'm sure it will probably clip before you get it up to a decent volume.
It's really up to you at the end of the day how much you want to spend and as you say it's also space dependent.
In my case when I realised I needed more amps to get the desired effect I opted for a £90 two channel power amp which in hindsight I wish I'd of spent more on an Inuke as it has built in EQ and when I seen/heard it in action was blown away.
My advice is if you can afford it, get dedicated amps for whatever bass shakers you plan on getting. In your case the Pyle's to save space might be right for you.
Click to expand...

Carson, are you using Sim Vibe in iRacing with your A/V amp?
 
Last edited:
lopsided
Carson, I can go for that amp. I understand now how the lower wattage amps I was considering for the LFE which is 50-250 watts would be lacking. I did not know that when I started digging for information. The BK deal for $259 sure looked sweet but if it won't cut it I'll pass.

So my plan is to either use the two LFE's with one under the brakes and one under the back in Extensions mode OR use them as Left & Right in Chassis instead of all 4 corners and use the BK gamer under the seat in Extensions mode.

I only want to buy 2 transducers to start and make sure I/we/ok... he can handle the noise. lol (Rig is in the family room so I have to be considerate)
Looks like I've read somewhere that a better quality amp helps cut down noise?

Could use suggestions on where to mount and whether I should use some rubber etc. between the LFE and the 8020.

Thanks.

Bailey
Click to expand...

I think going with the one amp and two BK'S for the time being is the best plan Bailey. It will give you a chance to see just how different it is having a really good amp and shaker in comparison to a bk gamer. Also it will give you a good indication on just how much noise there will be.
Having the right amp is so important it will be like having completely different shakers.
Some will argue "you don't need that much power, or this is an adequate amp"
But this amp won't clip, or overheat and yes it will cut out all the unwanted sound you get from the shakers. This for me is the main benefit of this particular amp it's built in EQ, which in your case you'll want to keep the noise down. Plus you won't need to spent twice on an amp and an EQ.
And yes for best effects you will need isolation
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-9464
I'm sure that it wouldn't be too difficult to fit four of these to the bottom of your rig. I think one in each corner would be best, the same for your BK's.
Also on the BK deal, it is good and would work, It's just mad in my opinion having such a low powered amp in relation to the BK. It would be like having a Corvette and only driving it around town at 30 miles an hour, and then putting your foot down and once you start to get to 70 the engine dies on you lol
 
Chassis mode relies on 4 transducers, one in every corner of your rig, the amp you linked to will operate 2 transducers. Normally you would have 2 on the back, a right back and a left back. Same for the front, so it looks like you will need 2 of the amps that you linked for a full chassis mode.
 
left888
Chassis mode relies on 4 transducers, one in every corner of your rig, the amp you linked to will operate 2 transducers. Normally you would have 2 on the back, a right back and a left back. Same for the front, so it looks like you will need 2 of the amps that you linked for a full chassis mode.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply.

So in full chassis mode, I need 4 separate channels from the amp to drive the 4 transducers independently, right?

I reviewed the Yung SD300 photos again on part express site, look like this amp only have one output channel which is come from the open box side.

That's mean I will need 4 of this in order to drive 4 different transducers. Hope my understanding is correct and would like to know if anyone is also using this Yung SD300 amp and can share his setup with me. :-)

Thanks
Mike
 
No, you will only need two amps, there is a left and a right channel on that amp you linked too. Right to one transducer and left to the other transducer.
 
Why doesn't everyone stop trying to buy these cheap amps that claim massive power and just buy an older used amp. I bought an old adcom to run mine and it puts out way more power than the shakers could ever use. I got it for around $200 and will be able to resell it for the same should I choose to stop using it.

Just do a little research on an audio forum and look around their marketplaces. Their will be quality amps to choose from and if you want to sell it one day it will retain some of its value. Just look for an amp that will push around 200 watts at 4 ohm.

Quality amps will work forever so no need in being afraid of used amps. I would be more afraid of buying a new $100 sub amp claiming 300 watts then I would a 1990 adcom. When it comes to amps claims of watts are very misleading. That's why you can go to some super store and buy a $150 amp claiming 1000 watts but it puts out 50 continuously and peak at 1000 for a split second. or you can spend $1000 on a 200 watt amp and it will continuously put out 200 watts and peak at 1500.

When it comes to amps you get what you pay for and generally unless you want to spend a bunch if money, just buy a used one.

Really the best bang for the buck amp for this application is the emotive 5 channel amp. It's rated at 120 watts per channel at 4 ohm. That's a real 120 watts though and would be plenty to drive a transducer.
 
Karim Bleik
Is there anyway for me to do the conversions so that a real dashboard car work on pc without buying any converter?
Click to expand...

The PC needs to know how to interface with a real dash of a car. Since for a real dash you need to drive multiple gauges, you'll need this interface board. And a 12V DC powersupply which is best bought locally as they can be heavy, which will hugely increase shipping costs depending on your location.

Pro-Gauge: http://www.symprojects.com/shop/category/pro-gauge&controls=off/


I am not sure if it will work with just any dash though. Please visit and post that question the following thread, as this is about Simvibe Tactile and not dashboards. :)

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/revburner-how-does-it-work.274651/
 
minanke
Thanks for the advices,

after doing more study, am now ordering this to drive the buttkickers

http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/ultra-series/products/upa500
Click to expand...

I purchased that very amp, much to powerful for the Aura bass shakers. Berney states that Emotiva amp rocks with the buttkickers though.

HoiHman
New update simcommander: Added support for Assetto Corsa:cheers:
Click to expand...

Has Simcommander 4 been released yet? I don't believe it has but you are a beta tester I guess?
 
Hi Guys,

I'm currently working on my simvibe setup and i need some help.

I have purchased 4 Sinuslive Big Bass Pumps:
http://www.car-hifi.de/product_info.php?products_id=527&XTCsid=d1de72cbda3f5ed0fe723dbaeeacace1
And 2 2channel pa amps: http://www.konigelectronic.com/nl_nl/1103255

So far so good.. but i'm getting a little puzzled on how to connect the speaker wires.

This is the 4 ohm direct connection diagram that came with the bass pump, taking 2 channels!
This is ofcourse no option because we need 4 separate channels.

direkt.JPG



There is also a 8 ohm connection schedule which is taking only 1 channel:

reihe.JPG


But can i use a 8 ohm connection with a 4 ohm amplifier?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Robert
 

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