SimVibe (SimXperience)

  • Thread starter the_greeze
  • 934 comments
  • 159,628 views
Hi Robert

The Sinus Live Big Bass Pumps have two 4ohm drivers per unit, so if connecting each unit to a single channel can be wired in series for an 8ohm load or parallel for a 2 ohm load.

Your amp is rated at 40W RMS per channel with an 8 ohm load so you need to wire each unit in series.

RMS vermogen (20 Hz-20 kHz; THD < 0.5%): 2x 60 W @ 4 ohm
2x 40 W @ 8 ohm

The Big Bass Pumps are rated at 50W RMS so your amp will not be able to drive them to their maximum capability, however this should not be a problem.

Connect the positive (red lead) from the amp to the positive of the first voice coil, then connect the negative of that voice coil to the positive of the second voice coil. Connect the negative of the second voice coil to the negative (black lead) on the amp. The shakers will now be wired in series to create an 8ohm 50W RMS load. Your amp is rated at 40W RMS with an 8 ohm load. The following pictures are of a Dayton amp connected to two single voice coil bass shakers (Aura AST2B Pro 4), but it shows the correct way to connect your dual voice coil shakers. Let me know if you have any more problems / queries.

tactile-transducer-series-jpg.86189



aura-pro-bass-shakers-jpg.86192



I would be very grateful if you could post up on this site a review of these bass shakers as they are reasonably priced (£39.99 in the UK from Conrad) and they have an interesting design with two opposing voice coils, which in theory may make them very effective for the amp power required and I have been thinking of adding a couple to my own tactile system.
 
Last edited:
Hi Robert

The Sinus Live Big Bass Pumps have two 4ohm drivers per unit, so if connecting each unit to a single channel can be wired in series for an 8ohm load or parallel for a 2 ohm load.

Your amp is rated at 40W RMS per channel with an 8 ohm load so you need to wire each unit in series.

RMS vermogen (20 Hz-20 kHz; THD < 0.5%): 2x 60 W @ 4 ohm
2x 40 W @ 8 ohm

The Big Bass Pumps are rated at 50W RMS so your amp will not be able to drive them to their maximum capability, however this should not be a problem.



I would be very grateful if you could post up on this site a review of these bass shakers as they are reasonably priced (£39.99 in the UK from Conrad) and they have an interesting design with two opposing voice coils, which in theory may make them very effective for the amp power required.

Hi i didn't get any response if i connect them according to the schedule, so i have connected them as "normal" speakers and they seem to be working fine.
I have tested them with a frequency sweep (youtube) and they are very sensitive, they kick in at 20 hz all the way up to 120 hz.
I will post a review when i have everything ready, and figured out all the different settings ;)
 
I have tested the Big Bass pumps and i get little vibrations, tried everything; all settings to max, amp to max etc.
They also clip very easily if the settings are to high. I looks like (imo) that the sounds generated by simvibe are specifically made for the buttkicker mini LFE. I also couldn't feel much difference between left/right and front/back, but thats more or less caused by the way i've build my rig i guess (on springs). All things considered, i'm going to send them back and i will use the Big LFE (that i already had for tactile sound feedback). The big LFE gives (imo) a much more realistic feel.
The only downside of using the big LFE for both sound and simvibe feedback is that i have to switch cables when i want to play a game that is not supported by simvibe (like FM or GT).
 
Last edited:
Hi Robert - sorry to hear that the Big Bass Pumps haven't worked well. You could try four Aura AST2B Pro 4's. They are less than $50 each from Parts Express and your amps have ample power for Auras. I know several people are using the Auras with Simvibe.

I have two Aura Pro's and they are good at generating road / kerb thumps as well as engine vibration.
 
I purchased this amp:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa100-100w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-802

And 1 Aura shaker.

I just wanted to experiment using sound only. And if I liked it, I'd upgrade to Simvibe. And in the future, if I wanted to add Chasis mode, I could just use this amp to power the seat.

But I can't get this thing to work for the life of me. I've seen people mention this amp before, but how is it used? I thought I could just go from the sub out on my sound card (orange and enabled in my sound card settings) to the Low Level Input jack on the amp. And then hook the Aura shaker up via the "To Speakers" connectors.

I've PM'd somebody about this, but if anyone could explain to an idiot what I should be doing, I'd really appreciate it.

EDIT: Saw a thread somewhere where they mention you needed crimps to connect the speakers (I'm assuming to the two wires in back). Guess I'll try that next.
 
Last edited:
Hi guys. if you have some overheating issues with the original BKG2 I advise you to buy an usb ventilators and put it near it!
with the overheating issues I was able to use only 10/20 of the BKG2 volume, but now I can increase the volume to 13/20 and it feels much better!
12028039184_a52dbf4945_b.jpg
 
Hi all, great thread! I just wrote Henk (HoiHman) to ask his opinion about specific types of vibration isolators to try with my 80/20 t-slot aluminum cockpit and four transducers (2x BK Mini LFE, 2x Aura) with SimVibe. Read how much difference single (or even double) isolation makes in his experiments and want to try it out. Figured rather than just limit it to the private conversation, to ask the collective group on this thread opinions also.My rig is using "15-series" 80/20 (imperial, not metric, based on 1.5" extrusions) and the common threaded bolt for those fasteners is 5/16-18. I see there are several choices online for double-male threaded isolators with that bolt pattern. They must come in different rubber densities. This selection is rated for instance (on this one search) for 50, 75, 80 and 125 pounds weight capacity in the bolt pattern I need. Any idea what the sweet spot would be to use in this application? For instance, here is what I'm looking at: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=industrial&field-keywords=2NPA vibration isolator
PS- I'm also curious what phone app you all are using (iOS please) to test the vibration results from the screen caps I've seen posted here...
Thanks!
 
I did some driving today in GT6 with the buttkicker in subwoofer mode after several days of assetto with simvibe. I have to say I am impressed by the way it works in GT6. In some ways it is even better. The engine vibrations are strong only when applying throttle and they are richer. The rumble strips are also richer in texture(still they don't always work).
While GT6 sounds suck, it is a coincidence they work very well for buttkickers.
It would be nice to have a filter for the RPM vibrations in simvibe that takes the throttle position in consideration.
 
Simvibe isn't fully supported in AC yet. Have you tried simvibe with any others sims?
What do you mean? As in the plugin is not fully done?

No I haven't tried with other PC sims as there are none I would play. Do other games' plugins have cool features? I saw iRacing has front/rear suspension and impacts .
 
Hi guys. if you have some overheating issues with the original BKG2 I advise you to buy an usb ventilators and put it near it!
with the overheating issues I was able to use only 10/20 of the BKG2 volume, but now I can increase the volume to 13/20 and it feels much better!
12028039184_a52dbf4945_b.jpg


I hope you do realize that the overheating protection is there for a reason, so as to not blow up your transducer. Cooling the sides could put off the temperature sensor while the copper coil in the transducer is slowly burning up.

I wouldn´t give anyone this advice personally. You possibly risk damage by going past the original limits set by the designers of the product.
Here´s to you enjoying it while it lasts, hopefully a long time of course. ;)
 
What do you mean? As in the plugin is not fully done?

No I haven't tried with other PC sims as there are none I would play. Do other games' plugins have cool features? I saw iRacing has front/rear suspension and impacts .

You clearly have your reasons, but I'd say Game Stock Car 2013 is a game with similar design principles. It has the disadvantage of using an old graphics engine, but the unlabeled Ayrton Senna Honda Mclaren is one of the funnest cars you'll ever drive in a sim. Niels (GSC) and Aris (AC) really do have similar philosophies in the physics department. If you've never tried it, you might be surprised by it.
 
What do you mean? As in the plugin is not fully done?

No I haven't tried with other PC sims as there are none I would play. Do other games' plugins have cool features? I saw iRacing has front/rear suspension and impacts .
Yes not until version 1.0 I believe.
 
You clearly have your reasons, but I'd say Game Stock Car 2013 is a game with similar design principles. It has the disadvantage of using an old graphics engine, but the unlabeled Ayrton Senna Honda Mclaren is one of the funnest cars you'll ever drive in a sim. Niels (GSC) and Aris (AC) really do have similar philosophies in the physics department. If you've never tried it, you might be surprised by it.
Funny you are saying that because that is the one game I was thinking of trying. I saw it on InsideSimRacing. Generally old graphic engines is what stops me but I might try it. Is the simvibe good there?
 
I hope you do realize that the overheating protection is there for a reason, so as to not blow up your transducer. Cooling the sides could put off the temperature sensor while the copper coil in the transducer is slowly burning up.

I wouldn´t give anyone this advice personally. You possibly risk damage by going past the original limits set by the designers of the product.
Here´s to you enjoying it while it lasts, hopefully a long time of course. ;)
So tell me why do we have the the GPUs ventilatore, the CPU ventilatore.....they cool down the hardware and makes them perform better! I have this solution for a while and I can tell you that it works perfectly and if I'm not mistaken the old BKG had these cooling ventilators?
 
So tell me why do we have the the GPUs ventilatore, the CPU ventilatore.....they cool down the hardware and makes them perform better! I have this solution for a while and I can tell you that it works perfectly and if I'm not mistaken the old BKG had these cooling ventilators?

Cpu and gpu coolers cool the surface they are supposed to cool directly, your solution does not do this.

Never seen fans with the BKG1 transducer. Maybe in the amp though, but never saw one on or near the transducer in the ISR review of the BKG1.

ps. A better fan setup would be two high pressure pc fans top and bottom into the holes. High pressure as the movement of the piston is likely not letting any air in, so the more pressure to force air in the better. This still does not cool the heat generating component directly though.
 
Maybe you are right, but before this solution when my BKG2s were stopping to work with 10 volume level, now I can push them to level 12-13!
 
Maybe you are right, but before this solution when my BKG2s were stopping to work with 10 volume level, now I can push them to level 12-13!

You do know why a speaker gets hot I hope? Clipping signal from the amp, or because the speaker limits are reached. There are videos and explanations plenty on youtube/the web.
To each his own, but I would personally rather get a better amp to properly drive the BKG2 transducer. That is the choice I would make at least.
 
You do know why a speaker gets hot I hope? Clipping signal from the amp, or because the speaker limits are reached. There are videos and explanations plenty on youtube/the web.
To each his own, but I would personally rather get a better amp to properly drive the BKG2 transducer. That is the choice I would make at least.
Yeah I know that I should get a better amp, but here in Israel it costs too much! the one that Mr.Latte has advised me costs like 650 eur here(900$)!:nervous:
If you have a good and not very expensive AMP to advice to me I would be very happy!:)
 
Yeah I know that I should get a better amp, but here in Israel it costs too much! the one that Mr.Latte has advised me costs like 650 eur here(900$)!:nervous:
If you have a good and not very expensive AMP to advice to me I would be very happy!:)
I think your cheapest solution would be to just get a second BKG2. That would double your current vibrations and also possibly give you some left right separation.
 
FYI: a guy made an excellent guide about every effect in SimVibe here. It's a profile tuning guide - a must read for every SimVibe user.

Did you know you can stack an effect multiple times? I never thought of that :). Now I have added the gear shift effect three times: at 30, 43 and 50 Hz. Gives a much better clunk now :D.
 
FYI: a guy made an excellent guide about every effect in SimVibe here. It's a profile tuning guide - a must read for every SimVibe user.

Did you know you can stack an effect multiple times? I never thought of that :). Now I have added the gear shift effect three times: at 30, 43 and 50 Hz. Gives a much better clunk now :D.
Thanks mate...I'll be giving this a look later :)
 
Tip: add a second "vertical surge" effect, but with lower frequencies for high and low bumps than the first vertical surge. This gives a nice rumbling feeling when driving over curbs.

One other thing: after reading his manual once more I think he's got the wrong idea about what "Tone" does, it seems to me he thinks it a volume slider (why would someone set a tone to 5 Hz?). But maybe I'm wrong, if so, sorry for that.
 
Back