SimVibe (SimXperience)

[dedraro]

Your welcome but please
come back and inform us how your progress goes.
Perhaps do your own thread here at GTP? We could do with a few new project build threads here at the moment as things are rather quiet in the hardware section. Besides it is always nice to see people sharing what they are doing and offering help if possible.

Regards my own tactile etc, I have a bit of an obsession/hobby with the topic.
Search the forums here as you will likely find various discussions on it I have been involved with. Few I think have the crazy ideas I have regards building a cockpit to achieving very high end tactile performance with a specially built cockpit. It is beyond sensible or the typical Simvibe configuration. Partly experimental and looking to push the boundaries in how tactile is utilised, controlled and installed.

I have been on a kinda personal hobby/goal of achieving that, maybe, someday.
Life issues and finances with current lack of motivation tend to hold it back though...

Hardware selected (changes) and has been accumulated over the last 5 years but is more the high end products available.
LFE x 4 / Clark TST 429 x 4 / Clark TST 329 x 1 /Clark TST 239 x 2

Wow, really amazing, a unique setup, congratulations! However as soon as I arrive silent blocks I'll update my topic here in the hardware section and show the steps, hoping that they are enough for my purpose. Thanks again

 

[Mr Latte]

Just remembered you had a good thread on your rig, so certainly look forward to any updates and would be interested in seeing your solution. I have done some updates in "RW65 Question thread"

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Hi guys, some very impressive projects here. I'm looking for a recommendation on improving my sim-vibe setup. I currently use four Dayton Mini-pucks for engine vibrations driven by a small amp in the seat-back that work quite well. I also have one BKG2 under my office chair but, I'm building an 80/20 race-rig and I want to upgrade to a more robust Amp and Transducer(s).

My plan is to use rubber isolators between the seat sub-frame and the main section with a single large transducer mounted to the seat sub-frame for maximum effect. I don't have a huge budget so I want to maximize the vibrations without using a full chassis transducer setup at this time. The amp I'm considering is the Behringer iNuke NU3000 (lightweight or DSP?).

Is something like the BK-advance enough or would the BK-LFE or BK-CT be better suited for seat duty? Do the big Transducers provide any detail or would I need a smaller unit on a separate channel for that? Or am I off base going with the big ones in this case?

I'm open to suggestions and hoping to save time and money through your experience. Thanks in advance.

 

[Mr Latte]

Hi, the CT range apparently is more suited for improved/better (mid range) hence why used more for drum thrones. The LFE is better suited for Simvibe and improved sub harmonic frequencies.

Having owned the "BK Advance" it is a good improvement over the smaller Gamer/Mini or SE variants but it falls way short of the performance possible with the full size LFE with good amplification.

Put it this way, in reference to specs the minimum wattage of the LFE is the same as the max wattage of the Advance.
The reason being the much bigger/heavier piston and the benefit being the tactile force/performance is much better. Not just the impact/volume but the depth and tightness of the tactile is more satisfying. The Big ones as you put it can create a tactile sensation not possible on any other unit, it is that simple.

I have used both 3000/6000 DSP with LFE and very much recommend the DSP variant.
Those that say you don't need DSP with Simvibe are correct, it is not needed but you can certainly improve how your tactile operates with it including limit the wattage and set your own low/pass hi/pass range. Beyond 90Hz is much a waste and you can discover this yourself if utilising DSP.

The 3000 produces enough power @800 watts to get a really good performance but the 6000 DSP can take it to the max of its capabilities. In the UK their is only about £70 difference between both models not sure on USA soil.

The 6000 model does have a deeper casing and has dual fans so is louder in operation.

Hope it is some help...
Dayton Puc / BK LFE = Bathroom Tap / Niagara Falls

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Hi, the CT range apparently is more suited for improved/better (mid range) hence why used more for drum thrones. The LFE is better suited for Simvibe and improved sub harmonic frequencies.

Having owned the "BK Advance" it is a good improvement over the smaller Gamer/Mini or SE variants but it falls way short of the performance possible with the full size LFE with good amplification.

Put it this way, in reference to specs the minimum wattage of the LFE is the same as the max wattage of the Advance.
The reason being the much bigger/heavier piston and the benefit being the tactile force/performance is much better. Not just the impact/volume but the depth and tightness of the tactile is more satisfying. The Big ones as you put it can create a tactile sensation not possible on any other unit, it is that simple.

I have used both 3000/6000 DSP with LFE and very much recommend the DSP variant.
Those that say you don't need DSP with Simvibe are correct, it is not needed but you can certainly improve how your tactile operates with it including limit the wattage and set your own low/pass hi/pass range. Beyond 90Hz is much a waste and you can discover this yourself if utilising DSP.

The 3000 produces enough power @800 watts to get a really good performance but the 6000 DSP can take it to the max of its capabilities. In the UK their is only about £70 difference between both models not sure on USA soil.

The 6000 model does have a deeper casing and has dual fans so is louder in operation.

Hope it is some help...
Dayton Puc / BK LFE = Bathroom Tap / Niagara Falls

I like the the scale analogy! Thank you for your input Mr Latte, very informative indeed.

 

[Mr Latte]

I like the the scale analogy! Thank you for your input Mr Latte, very informative indeed.

Your welcome, look forward to your feedback as a user.

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Your welcome, look forward to your feedback as a user.

Despite the non-robust nature of the pucks, my quad array mounted to 6mm corrugated plastic is surprisingly effective when placed between my gel-pad and the seat-back, enough to make my teeth chatter at times. Fine tuning through Sim-vibe makes the most of their limited range.

I think I'll go with the NU3000 & BK-LFE for now with the idea of adding a second amp later to drive a couple more small to mid-size LFE's up front down the road. Using bridge mode should make enough power to drive the LFE quite well - correct? Although, the non-DSP version of the NU-6000 is $349.

Thanks again for your input Mr Latte.

 

[Mr Latte]

I'd go with the 3000 DSP over the 6000 standard. Bridge is possible yes.
You may not use all the full wattage espically if/when you start adding more units.

As for the Puc yes I played with them several years ago in researching different units.
Although noisy I found they could of served a rather unique purpose acting like a tactile tweeter or exciter for higher frequencies.

Well I placed one in a pocket of foam material to reduce the nosie a little and slid them up the side of my then Sebring seat for additional "liveliness" to engine revs.

Have moved on since then and only now use LFE and Clark TST for slam and detail roles.

 

[Mr Latte]

Found this old image.

Size comparison.

 

[asteroulis]

Hey, I would like to ask anyone feeling that could help. I am buildin a full simvibe motion rig . I am on a budget, so I do have :

4x16ohm pucks=100w/4ohm
2xAURA PROS
4Xno name same as auras spec 12€ transducers
8x150watt/4ohm (4x300watt/8ohm bridged) amplifier
I could also use my first diy shaker from a 5.1 sub that introduced me to the tactile world but it's not necessary.

Now the power I feel, seems enough for me, as simvibe is to enhance the experience. I really don't see the use of extra power. But I have not had the chance to experience the waterfall to be able to see why it could better.

Taking a shower is better that falling of a waterfall. Staring at a waterfall is more enjoyable that staring at a bathroom tap, too.

What I am really concerned though is the frequency reproduction of my transducers. All of them are rated 20-80hz,and although I can feel them in higher frequencies I suppose they are not that efficient. So how possible is it to get right kind of tactile racing feedback i in do low frequencies? The LFE is rated for much higher tone reproduction, and I suppose it's one of the reasons is suggested by simvibe itself.
Importing LFEs to Greece is not a viable scenario. The cost of each one could reach more than double the initial cost.
If it is that important though, I could make diy transducers from subwoofer drivers that are able to play in even higher frequencies although I will probably won't feed them to their limits.

Hope I was clear of my concerns, if not don't hesitate to point that out.
Sorry for any problems with the post, woke up in the middle of the night to feed the baby and am writing from the phone.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Okay, so I have my new gear setup and working quite nicely but, I'm sticking with my office-chair (racing seat style) as opposed to the box-frame setup I was planning. After considerable testing, I found that the shock-absorber design of the seat post does a far better job with providing my body with bigger vibrations provided by the BL-LFE than the rubber isolator mounted system I had planned. Overall, I'm really happy with the iNuke NU3000DSP and BK-LFE.

Many thanks for the help!

One issue I have is with SC4 dropping the telemetry from Dirt Rally. It worked initially when I set it up but, always stops working after one play-session; i.e., close SC4, upon start of Dirt Rally, there is no FFB or SimVibe signal. The only fix I have found is to reset the SC4 Game Profile but, that also resets all of the settings.

I've also tried saving the working SC4 Game profile and importing it back later but, that does not work either.

Update: Okay, after extensive hardware testing, the issue appears to be related to an old driver for the Realtek on-board audio chip used to drive SimVibe. Since updating the driver, I'm no longer experiencing the disconnects.

The Fanatec Shifter still has some calibration issues but, support will be issuing an RMA for repair.

 

[Mr Latte]

Any pics Dean to show better both options you tried.
Great to hear how happy you are with the LFE.

What you enjoying most engine or bumps?

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Any pics Dean to show better both options you tried.
Great to hear how happy you are with the LFE.

What you enjoying most engine or bumps?

I knew the LFE would be great with Dirt Rally; the bumps are big! I was surprised at how well the road and small bumps come through with road titles though; I use an Aura base-shaker for more detail and I still have the mini-puck array for engine vibes so I'm using 3 channels in Extensions mode to great success.

I'll round up a couple photos when I get a bit more time. Thanks again for your assistance Mr Latte.

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Here are a few photos of how I set these up. I also used the Aura-Pro mounted to the side under the seat and that may have been better for detail; perhaps the cancellation being directly across from the BK-LFE is a factor? The brackets used for the Aura were also slightly different lengths so that might be a factor as well.

The longer BK bracket was not working as well as I had hoped so I ended up shortening it up about 1-1/4" to tighten up the response. The movement isn't as dramatic as before but, the overall effect is more satisfying after having tried different lengths of brackets.

By having the Mini-puck array doing Engine-Vibe duties, the Aura-Pro handling small road detail, and the BK-LFE for big and smaller bumps, the whole "Vibe Experience" is nicely filled. I'm also getting some residual vibe-effects through the frame to the pedals and shifter/hand-brake.

It's not an ideal setup by any means but, it's more versatile for my daily use where I have to combine work duties during the day and play at night. I've retained the office-chair functionality and adjustments and added Sim-Vibes while keeping a minimal footprint.

 

[Mr Latte]

Here are a few photos of how I set these up. I also used the Aura-Pro mounted to the side under the seat and that may have been better for detail; perhaps the cancellation being directly across from the BK-LFE is a factor? The brackets used for the Aura were also slightly different lengths so that might be a factor as well.View attachment 486150 View attachment 486151 View attachment 486152

The longer BK bracket was not working as well as I had hoped so I ended up shortening it up about 1-1/4" to tighten up the response. The movement isn't as dramatic as before but, the overall effect is more satisfying after having tried different lengths of brackets.

By having the Mini-puck array doing Engine-Vibe duties, the Aura-Pro handling small road detail, and the BK-LFE for big and smaller bumps, the whole "Vibe Experience" is nicely filled. I'm also getting some residual vibe-effects through the frame to the pedals and shifter/hand-brake.

It's not an ideal setup by any means but, it's more versatile for my daily use where I have to combine work duties during the day and play at night. I've retained the office-chair functionality and adjustments and added Sim-Vibes while keeping a minimal footprint.

Well done Dean, good to see your not afraid of a bit of a challenge and trying a few alternative methods.
I like what your doing having engine in the spine (easily detectable) the finer details in the front under your thigh regions and the LFE more at the back for the low end vibes. No doubt of course you will feel that LFE through the whole seat but having direct mounted tactile for the other units helps to detect their own vibrations.

Of course you will already of tried the seat with just the LFE and with the AP to determine how much you are still feeling it when the stronger LFE vibrations are going through the seat itself.
If it is not drowning out the felt effect that is good but if it needs improved their is a way you can do it by increasing the contact surface area for the AP.

Looking at your photos it seems you cut the front end of the BK mount away, so obviously it was not below the seat directly with 4 points of contact in the way the mount typically would be used on a drum throne.

My query is, I assume it does but will ask, does the seat have a metal outer surround as well as the two horizontal sections the wheel base bolts into? If this is the case check to see if it has any threaded holes down the sides. I think you might have some possible options to go deeper down the rabbit hole.

I could make some suggestions to consider to try if you want that might improve this solution more for you and a couple of ways to use the units within Simvibe that may be worth attempting. Of course if your happy with it as is then that's really what matters.

Great stuff, thanks for sharing and certain it could be inspiring for some people too.

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Well done Dean, good to see your not afraid of a bit of a challenge and trying a few alternative methods.
I like what your doing having engine in the spine (easily detectable) the finer details in the front under your thigh regions and the LFE more at the back for the low end vibes. No doubt of course you will feel that LFE through the whole seat but having direct mounted tactile for the other units helps to detect their own vibrations.

Of course you will already of tried the seat with just the LFE and with the AP to determine how much you are still feeling it when the stronger LFE vibrations are going through the seat itself.
If it is not drowning out the felt effect that is good but if it needs improved their is a way you can do it by increasing the contact surface area for the AP.

Looking at your photos it seems you cut the front end of the BK mount away, so obviously it was not below the seat directly with 4 points of contact in the way the mount typically would be used on a drum throne.

My query is, I assume it does but will ask, does the seat have a metal outer surround as well as the two horizontal sections the wheel base bolts into? If this is the case check to see if it has any threaded holes down the sides. I think you might have some possible options to go deeper down the rabbit hole.

I could make some suggestions to consider to try if you want that might improve this solution more for you and a couple of ways to use the units within Simvibe that may be worth attempting. Of course if your happy with it as is then that's really what matters.

Great stuff, thanks for sharing and certain it could be inspiring for some people too.

Thanks for your response Me Latte. I haven't explored other mounting possibilities extensively but, from what I can feel through the fabric and foam on the seat, the outer frame-work consists of small diameter round tubing.

After several different mounting positions for the BK-LFE bracket, I settled on this final position but, the forward section of the bracket was just not giving me the bolt-thru mounting points I needed so I cut the front section off and welded the back to a 3-point mounting piece I made from flat-stock. This allowed me to bolt it directly to the bell-flange of the seat base. It's hard to tell by the photos but, the bracket extends forward of the seat mounting points by a few inches and is very securely mounted to the seat-base.

Prior to that, I had the bracket pinched in between the seat bottom and the base but, it was quite noisy and I had concerns about it doing damage to the seat where it was coming in direct contact. With a bolt-thru mount, I was able to add a bit of space between the seat and the bracket and that eliminated the noise and likely abrasion wear-thru issues.

I am considering incorporating the low-end Clark unit in the future. I welcome any recommendations you have to improve this setup even though I like it as is, I know some optimizations and tweaks could be worth-while.

 

[Mr Latte]

Dean I was mainly going to suggest having a flat plate type surface for the front section that connects to the front bolts but preferably is also connected with the outer frame at the front and sides. It could have a thin layer of foam/sponge based material used to also help prevent vibration rattle and not be over abrasive to the inner of the seat that is compressed when you sit on it. Ths was its not pushing into a hard metal plate of bare metal.

Having more contact with the front & sides of the frame I believe would help heighten the sensation of effects it is handling. Upon you mentioning the Clark a TST 239 is a bit stronger than the P/Express T209 special and yes a better performer than the AP model. Although the AP produce pretty good effects for their money, just they lack the depth in power.

I believe you could actually with either type of tactile use the plate/surface idea but rather a single plate across the front section. Instead create two separate plates for a L/R tactile based effects and this would be a good upgrade in immersion with stereo tactile if you ever considered it.

You seem well clued on the d.i.y side if you wanted to take things further.

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Dean I was mainly going to suggest having a flat plate type surface for the front section that connects to the front bolts but preferably is also connected with the outer frame at the front and sides. It could have a thin layer of foam/sponge based material used to also help prevent vibration rattle and not be over abrasive to the inner of the seat that is compressed when you sit on it. Ths was its not pushing into a hard metal plate of bare metal.

Having more contact with the front & sides of the frame I believe would help heighten the sensation of effects it is handling. Upon you mentioning the Clark a TST 239 is a bit stronger than the P/Express T209 special and yes a better performer than the AP model. Although the AP produce pretty good effects for their money, just they lack the depth in power.

I believe you could actually with either type of tactile use the plate/surface idea but rather a single plate across the front section. Instead create two separate plates for a L/R tactile based effects and this would be a good upgrade in immersion with stereo tactile if you ever considered it.

You seem well clued on the d.i.y side if you wanted to take things further.

Excellent advice Mr Latte - thank you. I'll ponder these ideas over the next couple of months or so and consider an upgrade in the spring.

The mounting bracket for the Aura is some left over material (3mm composite, polyethylene and aluminum) but, I think using all aluminum might yield better results as I suspect this material has a bit too much flex and some of the effect is lost although, another contact point might do the trick and I like your idea of trying some foam; that would be easy to experiment with.

Your suggestion on using stereo on the front of the seat is intriguing. At one point I did have the AP mounted to one side - near the front where there are additional mounting points for arm-rests and that was a bit better at transmitting the vibrations; it may have been the bracket design but, it does suggest that the two Aura's up front might work quite well indeed.

That raises the question about another Amp to drive those - any suggestions, assuming something with at least 300 watts per channel? I could then power the LFE in Bridge-mode for a little boost in the bump dynamics.

 

[Mr Latte]

Good stuff, having stereo is a nice addition if/when comes the time you decide but keep an eye on ebay etc for some tactile, certainly here in UK I have had some bargins fall my way...

For amps, I still find for price the inuke and DSP variants a good option with more features.
Its hard to find some amps that have the wattage your looking but I always recommend its a good thing to have more than you need so the amp being used is not constantly close to its peak performance. Their is a tactile thread I did here a while back that has some models listed but I haven't updated the thread in a while because it has little discussion on it.

Not sure if your also using engine effects in the AP?

If you could try a test I'd like your input on how it works out for you.

Have the suspension/texture effects you want on both units to settings you find they work well with.
Set up some engine filters to operate at set ranges and exploit the LFE for the low end Hz (Tones)
Working from lowest setting to 45Hz or @ 4-5K revs the base tone in this range should be good on the LFE

For the AP do the same idea but set the range of it to operate with engine from 40Hz-80Hz this might improve the higher rev detail. It might be worth a try but not sure how the AP will perform compared to a TST for the finer detail in mid-high frequencies that I think they outperform BK models with.

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Your advice on the filtering is interesting, I haven't really looked at that feature yet in any depth. I've limited the engine-vibes to the mini-pucks thus far and adjusted the tone to best suit their range.

The engine vibes tend to get lost when adding other effects to the AP but, I'll have to try tuning using your suggested method.

One thing I find curious is with the gear change; if I max out the output and set the tone low for the LFE, I barely get any effect but, if I also set it for another channel, it's much stronger through the LFE. It seems like the signal to the LFE is boosted via the other channel but I don't have the blend channels enabled in SC4.

 

[Mr Latte]

Do not have a current PC to run Simvibe on at present to be able to go into offering much detailed help.

The issue with the gears, perhaps deleting the effects and redoing them may help. Seems to just be a bug of sorts perhaps? Maybe others have had similar issues and can give more feedback.

If the AP is struggling to manage two sets of constant effects "engine/bumps" then best to perhaps let it just run with the bumps/textures as is.

I certainly however recommend you get a taste of the LFE with engine low end so certainly try to add a filter working range for the engine low revs and at idle. Use it with the PUCS but they may not respond as well to such low end working range. It should be possible to get a good working solution with the LFE for this role and of course beyond the range you set the LFE to utilise engine it can then continue normal duties with the current bumps/effects you are using.

This is something I want to do with my own ongoing current build to extract the power of the LFE at idle and low speed with preference to engine but for general racing speeds have it concentrate on the bumps/suspension/impacts.

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Very interesting thoughts Mr Latte; I like the idea of utilizing the LFE for low-end engine duties and still being able to perform bump work - great stuff although, probably a bit over my head in the tuning department. I'll look into it though, thank you.

 

[grog]

I've got a question about the setup I'm piecing together.

I planned on using my old Concert mini rated at 2 ohms, along with 3 new mini LFEs rated at 4 ohm (with a 4 ohm amp), they share the same frequency and wattage specs. But I've just now realized they don't share the same specs as far as the ohms go and I'm wondering if this will still work ok or will I potentially be overloading the concert mini?


Also thanks @Mr Latte for all of your contributions to this forum and this subject 👍

 

[Mr Latte]

Hi grog.

The concert series does indeed seem to have similar specs it even shares the same thermal protection temperatures yet Butt-kicker refer to it as having more mid range performance.

Is this unit 1 of 4 for CM?
Im a bit dubious in the actual differences tbh as the Gamer is the same @ 2ohm and they all look identical internally.

You could try it, as it has more of an issue with the amplifier used. However their are some things to check over.
The power output my be different to other channels operating with 4ohm load, so do compare to determine if you feel any differences.

If you have a decent amplifier it should have its own thermal protection and if the 2ohm load is breaking it into a sweat with the other channels using 4ohm it will shut off.

You may be able to easily sell it and just go for another mini LFE if you are over concerned in the longterm.

 

[fatkrakr]

I've got a question about the setup I'm piecing together.

I planned on using my old Concert mini rated at 2 ohms, along with 3 new mini LFEs rated at 4 ohm (with a 4 ohm amp), they share the same frequency and wattage specs. But I've just now realized they don't share the same specs as far as the ohms go and I'm wondering if this will still work ok or will I potentially be overloading the concert mini?


Also thanks @Mr Latte for all of your contributions to this forum and this subject 👍

If your using a 4 ohm amp your 2 ohm kicker will be under powered, by about half of what the amp is rated at. Wont hurt the kicker just be under powered. If you use a 2 ohm amp you will be over powering your 4 ohm kickers and it will damage them. So basically they will all work with 4 ohms but the one kicker will be a lot weaker than the other 3.

 

[grog]

Is this unit 1 of 4 for CM?

CM, do you mean Chassis Mode? If so yes I plan on using these in Chassis mode.

I picked up an INuke dsp amp, so maybe I can tune it appropriately, although it would be nice to not bother with it. I'll have to see how it works first I guess.

Thanks for the input guys

Also way off topic, but I had a though immediately after buying the 3 transducers, why not instead of using transducers use electric rumble motors. Seems like they'd be much simpler but they probably wouldn't have the responsiveness or range that an audio device would.

 

[Mr Latte]

Yes about Chassis Mode...
I assumed you where but wanted to check.

Excellent if you have an inuke DSP model.

You don't need to use more advanced features like PEQ/GEQ or indeed other DSP features of the inuke DSP if you don't want to.

However it is possible to tweak the performance of a tactile unit with such. The Mini LFE are well documented for bottoming under heavy load and with strong wattage. On the inuke DSP you can help eliminate this as it is more to do with the Mini LFE operating below the 35Hz range which causes the issue.

So you can apply PEQ and filters to reduce the output of those frequencies below that point, essentially tailor them or others to get the most out of the tactile being used and the effects being sent from Simvibe.

You can however make use of the amps other features too.
It will allow you to alter the input DB, set a wattage limit to protect the tactile NOT being overloaded and the inuke DSP amps are 2ohm compatible. (Although Im not certain if you can run 2ohm/4ohm on different channels).

Use the PC software and connect with USB for easy configuring of these and save a PRESET.
The amps small display is a pain to use so certainly use the software.

--------------------------------
As for the rumble motor based tactile, it does not work from an audio source or utilise Audio Frequency Tones which Simvibe uses.

 

[Dean Ogurek]

@ Mt Latte:

Last-night, I tried adjusting the "Speed Based Volume" filter for the road bumps sent to the LFE with good results in Assetto Corsa. The real test will be with Dirt Rally where even tiny bumps at slow speeds are felt and need to be tamed down. I think I can see where the filters can benefit the engine vibes now by using various frequencies for different transducers. I'll try that over the weekend, thanks for the tips.

 

[Mr Latte]

Thanks good to hear Dean.
With having inuke DSP you do have another feature at your disposal to aid your tuning.

If you run into some issues with effects conflicting or you feel you need to fine tune effects to cut them back a little at certain frequencies and boost them in others this is all possible in the inuke DSP. Not sure what units you are powering with yours (other than the LFE).

Certainly will give you some pointers on what to try but look forward to more of your input.

Just to let you know it is also possible to test what each effect is doing with the tactile in ANY given working range. This is good if you want to discover what specific frequency range is being used by any particular set effect and if you want to make it more lively or you want to tone down.

Think of it like an EQ for Simvibe but you can tweak down to the exact Hz if desired, you are not stuck with sliders at set frequencies like a normal EQ. It is mainly giving the user control of their tactile to be more to their preference with the output of effects Simvibe is producing.

Different units perform and feel different with various frequencies.

 

[Dean Ogurek]

Thanks good to hear Dean.
With having inuke DSP you do have another feature at your disposal to aid your tuning.

If you run into some issues with effects conflicting or you feel you need to fine tune effects to cut them back a little at certain frequencies and boost them in others this is all possible in the inuke DSP. Not sure what units you are powering with yours (other than the LFE).

Certainly will give you some pointers on what to try but look forward to more of your input.

Just to let you know it is also possible to test what each effect is doing with the tactile in ANY given working range. This is good if you want to discover what specific frequency range is being used by any particular set effect and if you want to make it more lively or you want to tone down.

Think of it like an EQ for Simvibe but you can tweak down to the exact Hz if desired, you are not stuck with sliders at set frequencies like a normal EQ. It is mainly giving the user control of their tactile to be more to their preference with the output of effects Simvibe is producing.

Different units perform and feel different with various frequencies.

Yes, I think I understand what you are saying; I adjust the tone settings for each channel to work within the most effective range for a given Transducer. At higher tones (Frequencies), the LFE just makes a bit of noise but, from 5 to 20 or so Hz, the movements are bigger or more abrupt (harsh or sharp) as you increase the frequency. I imagine that the smoothing filter can have the effect of softening the effect - much as it does with the AccuForce wheel. The Min/Max threshold filters provide adjustable limits for the frequency operating range - correct?

Regarding the amp and DSP settings, I'm pretty lost to be honest; not having much experience as an audiophile has left me in the dark I'm afraid.

The iNuke is currently powering the LFE on one channel and the Aura-Pro on the other. If/when I add another unit on the front for stereo mode, I'll add another Amp to run both front corner units and use the Nu3000DSP to power the LFE in Bridge mode, or maybe add a second LFE!

Today, I ran across a poster with 4 BK-LFE's mounted on a spring-suspension frame. He's using 2x NU3000DSP amps and can really bounce the whole rig around the floor when unloaded.