(Spin) Problem Handling Cars list

  • Thread starter Gturbo5
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GTP_CargoRatt
The NASCAR cars are not broke. If you are having trouble driving them, then it is your lack of skill, not the car.
Click to expand...
Or said driver is broken. I've ran the Cup car only once and it didn't feel broken at all. I guess I don't know what I'm talking about then.
 
Repetitive theme over and over again in this thread. User A will complain about broken car, User B will state that it's not and is a matter of tuning and driver skill. By now it is well established that no car is "broken", and any complaints to list a "broken"car are pretty futile and baseless.
 
Please take what I'm about to say seriously, and try to help me an everyone else who is having this problem. Their seems to be an elitist mentality about this topic. I 100% know for fact that their is a huge bug. I just rage quit GT6 tonight due to this. If you think I'm just a scrub and can't drive send me an PSN friend invite PSN= atsoc75

Day 1........the NSX R 02 was broken with RH tyers, SS and RS tyers were fine. If I were to use 50% throttle in 3rd gear @ 30-50MPH and just let off the accelerator the car would spin out like the rear end was on ice, and traveling at 150MPH. It's almost like the car has RS tyers in the front and SH tyers in the back. A day or two later and it was fine again, and I thought it was fixed through a patch or because of server maintenance. I was wrong.

Last night a friend and I opened a lobby and started to tune a 111R at Deep forest reverse. car was handling very good @500PP on SS tyers but I put it away early as it's a cheese car and we were no longer racing solo.


This morning i went online to continue with the 111R. I immediately realized something was wrong, and sure enough the tune didn't save. Actually none of the parts i purchased were even bought, but the money I spent on them was gone go figure. No worries i took a picture of the tune on my phone but after i put the tune back on the 111R it was un drivable just like the NSX was. just as I was about to try to retune the car I received a message from a friend to join his lobby.

Grand vally east 500PP SS tyer no ABS. I immediately get on the track to try and figure out what the deal is, but get this the 111R is on rails just like the night before, with the same tune and tyers. Confused I jump back in the NSX R just to see what happens. The car is great on SS tyers so I tell my friend to un resrict the tyers and I install a set of RS tyers. Guess what its un drivable!!!!!!!!

We debate back and forth about whats happening to my cars for at least 30 min while i do a few laps. Weird time glitches were happening 1st time marker -55.xx.xx entering the tunnel, -99.55..xx.xx entering the last corner. We come to a conclusion that it might be the upgraded rims. So I go buy another NSX R 02, 111r, and a CSL but no paint, no rims, just an oil change. I start with the new NSX and it was perfectly fine. We conclude that it's obviously the rims. I run a few 8 lappers with him, and some randoms back on SS tyers. I started to tell a friend who just joined whats been going on to see if he has had some similar issues. This is were it starts to get really weird, as i pull out the glitched NSX to show him how un drivable it was, once again it was on rails while using RS tyers.

Fed up I call it a night but notice a friend just got on (he's had the same problem with the MR Diablo, installed rims, and painted it) so I join his lobby to discuss what has happened. He tells me he sold the car and bought a new one left it stock rims and paint and has no issues. I decide to run a few laps with him at Ascari. Both my CSL, and NSX are busted on RS tyers again. I'm so angry at this point and determined to figure this out, as I'm in and out of the pit at least 30xs (only going to the 3rd turn before returning to the tuning page) I start to discover more problems.....

Every time i come out on the track the breaks would engage 100% even with a little tap(like when you plug the wheel in for the first time) which with no abs is kind of wild.

If I would install SS tyers come on the track, go back and install RS tyers then it would go back to normal 50% of the time, but would not guaranty it wouldn't start to happen again without any notice or even on the same stint.

While at Ascari force feedback felt weak when the grip would start to glitch, and would be and stay strong as long as the glitch wasn't present. Also my car would have a weightless/floatly feel.

My parts installed would randomly change, fluctuating my PP by as little as 13 and as much as 40PP, stage 3 lighten was the only part that would always change everything else was random uninstalls.

Conclusion..........I don't have one, Ive tried to think of everything I can digital to disk incompatibilities, lack of fixed host, rims, paint I really don't know. One thing is for certain this has only happened to cars that have had Gt auto parts installed currently or at one time, and those were cars i bought day 1. A vehicle that has never had these parts has never been an issue, and it seem to be a problem with racing tyers and very rare if ever with sports or comfort tyers.

I apologize if I may have offended anyone with my elitist comment, but it does seem that a higher % of people that have said "it's your driving" are also using non racing tyers. I would be curious to see if the people who don't have this problem have installed rims or paint.
 
As a (very) casual player using DS3: I don't see the problem with these cars. They're a lot of fun to drive 0-o

If i, as a casual gamer, can get those cars through corners using a DS3, what's the problem these people are having exactly?

Edit: As a response to the post above, some of the cars were painted/new rims and are using RH tyres. I haven't noticed this supposed glitch 0-o
 
I agree the Honda NSX..(and every other Mid-Rear drive car) is broken.There's no way these cars would be that hard to stop spinning irl.

Just as an example of "nice" sim physics in a mid-rear layout,rFactor has a new NSX mod just out.....I had no trouble keeping this in a straight line,although I can easily feel the weight behind me.

 
Mr P510
I agree the Honda NSX..(and every other Mid-Rear drive car) is broken.There's no way these cars would be that hard to stop spinning irl.

Just as an example of "nice" sim physics in a mid-rear layout,rFactor has a new NSX mod just out.....I had no trouble keeping this in a straight line,although I can easily feel the weight behind me.

Click to expand...


No such thing as broken. People just don't know how to drive them.
 
I'll leave a universal and simple truth to driving " Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast" supercars were not designed to be bombed around corners or have the wheel sawed at like a 16 year old girl swerving to avoid a bunny in the road.
 
For people who don't want to read the past 7 pages I will briefly summarize the content:

"Broken Physics"
"Broken Driver!"
"Broken Physics!!"
"Broken Driver!!!"
"Broken Physics!!!!"
"Broken Driver!!!!!"
"Broken Physics!!!!!!"
"Broken Driver!!!!!!!"
"Broken Physics!!!!!!!!"
"Broken Driver!!!!!!!!!"
"Broken Physics!!!!!!!!!!"
"Broken Driver!!!!!!!!!!!"
"Broken Physics!!!!!!!!!!!!"
"Broken Driver!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
"Broken Physics!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
"Broken Driver!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"


And (almost?) nobody concluded that those might not be mutually exclusive (but don't tell them, it's our little secret)
 
One thing to try...

I was having some issues with the RUF RGT (very snappy at the rear and almost impossible to catch once it started to slide). I changed back to the standard rims from the +2" ones I'd fitted it with and it became much easier to drive - more progressive and adjustable.

Not sure if this is just in my mind, but I posted my testing in this thread https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/rufs-and-tire-physics.293069/ (post#16) - I haven't had time to test on other cars yet.

I'd be interested in other peoples findings/opinions.
 
I've driven a bunch of MR cars now and can't find anything broken about them. I still find the controller sensitivity a bit iffy in GT6 but I'm used to it now. As for these broken cars, I've also tried them fully tuned, with SM tyres and all cars have been painted, with their rims swapped and increased in size.

The only car I thought was particularly difficult was the Cizeta, the car is on a knife edge on slow corners but adapting to it, it is driveable. Others, such as the Yellowbird, BTR, Diablo GT2, NSX and others handled exactly as I expected. The back end steps out and you need the right amount of throttle and care, the end result is a car that can actually pull out of a corner very quickly and being slightly sideways while doing it.

I spent a good 2 hours last night on the Nurb, Monza and Bathhurst in an online free run room with a 750hp BTR and Diablo on SM tyres with all aids off, and I had an absolute hoot. Only times I span out was when I dipped a wheel into the grass with the steering wheel turned.

For those that are having major problems, perhaps you could upload a replay from cockpit view with all of the race info on display. To me it sounds like an issue of too much brake, throttle and steering input, or possibly not quick enough reactions to the vehicle stepping out. A replay would show whether this is the problem or not.
 
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Porsche by fact is a difficult car to drive with its RR, supercars get crashed by people who by them because they get the unexpected spin. Search diablo spin on youtube and one guy pulls out at a junction, not on track, and it spins but luckily not hit.

New question, is it just older MRs that spin? As i find 458 and Mp4 brilliant cars to drive. Oh and the new tyre model has made Racing tyres harder to heat up and are best left on racing cars with higher natural DF. I find road cars skid like on ice while wearing RS RM RH.

Best way to sort this out is a race. Physics vs Drivers split.

To go back to the R18 that someone mentioned, beat the goodwood time by 2.9 seconds and can take picture for proof. Never span and only breaked twice
 
I tried putting SH tires back on the Diablo and it becomes driveable again. I just did about 5 laps each with SH and RH, same settings and I was much, much faster with SH tires. I could not even get within 15 seconds with the RH tires and most of the time I spin into barriers on multiple corners.

This was on High Speed Ring.
 
Sander 001
I'm now 100% convinced there's something broken within the game because my Diablo does not behave that way in the least.
Click to expand...
Just so we are perfectly clear, another user just provided undeniable proof that the car is drivable yet the game is broken because of what you experience on your copy of the game. He even told you how he corrected the vehicle to make it easier to drive. I'm guessing there's a lot of Prost fans on GTP. In Gt you are both the driver and engineer, as a driver if you have a complaint about the vehicle, you need to address it with the engineer. Instead of complaining about the game that may lead to an unnecessary patch, nerfing perfectly fine vehicles, address the issue yourself. All the tools are there, use them.
 
Newland
Just so we are perfectly clear, another user just provided undeniable proof that the car is drivable yet the game is broken because of what you experience on your copy of the game. He even told you how he corrected the vehicle to make it easier to drive. I'm guessing there's a lot of Prost fans on GTP. In Gt you are both the driver and engineer, as a driver if you have a complaint about the vehicle, you need to address it with the engineer. Instead of complaining about the game that may lead to an unnecessary patch, nerfing perfectly fine vehicles, address the issue yourself. All the tools are there, use them.
Click to expand...
Let me dumb it down a notch so you may understand: There are conditions which can cause the physics simulation of the game to change and become faulty and inconsistent.

See if this is to your understanding:

fightnightchamp
Please take what I'm about to say seriously, and try to help me an everyone else who is having this problem. Their seems to be an elitist mentality about this topic. I 100% know for fact that their is a huge bug. I just rage quit GT6 tonight due to this. If you think I'm just a scrub and can't drive send me an PSN friend invite PSN= atsoc75

Day 1........the NSX R 02 was broken with RH tyers, SS and RS tyers were fine. If I were to use 50% throttle in 3rd gear @ 30-50MPH and just let off the accelerator the car would spin out like the rear end was on ice, and traveling at 150MPH. It's almost like the car has RS tyers in the front and SH tyers in the back. A day or two later and it was fine again, and I thought it was fixed through a patch or because of server maintenance. I was wrong.

Last night a friend and I opened a lobby and started to tune a 111R at Deep forest reverse. car was handling very good @500PP on SS tyers but I put it away early as it's a cheese car and we were no longer racing solo.


This morning i went online to continue with the 111R. I immediately realized something was wrong, and sure enough the tune didn't save. Actually none of the parts i purchased were even bought, but the money I spent on them was gone go figure. No worries i took a picture of the tune on my phone but after i put the tune back on the 111R it was un drivable just like the NSX was. just as I was about to try to retune the car I received a message from a friend to join his lobby.

Grand vally east 500PP SS tyer no ABS. I immediately get on the track to try and figure out what the deal is, but get this the 111R is on rails just like the night before, with the same tune and tyers. Confused I jump back in the NSX R just to see what happens. The car is great on SS tyers so I tell my friend to un resrict the tyers and I install a set of RS tyers. Guess what its un drivable!!!!!!!!

We debate back and forth about whats happening to my cars for at least 30 min while i do a few laps. Weird time glitches were happening 1st time marker -55.xx.xx entering the tunnel, -99.55..xx.xx entering the last corner. We come to a conclusion that it might be the upgraded rims. So I go buy another NSX R 02, 111r, and a CSL but no paint, no rims, just an oil change. I start with the new NSX and it was perfectly fine. We conclude that it's obviously the rims. I run a few 8 lappers with him, and some randoms back on SS tyers. I started to tell a friend who just joined whats been going on to see if he has had some similar issues. This is were it starts to get really weird, as i pull out the glitched NSX to show him how un drivable it was, once again it was on rails while using RS tyers.

Fed up I call it a night but notice a friend just got on (he's had the same problem with the MR Diablo, installed rims, and painted it) so I join his lobby to discuss what has happened. He tells me he sold the car and bought a new one left it stock rims and paint and has no issues. I decide to run a few laps with him at Ascari. Both my CSL, and NSX are busted on RS tyers again. I'm so angry at this point and determined to figure this out, as I'm in and out of the pit at least 30xs (only going to the 3rd turn before returning to the tuning page) I start to discover more problems.....

Every time i come out on the track the breaks would engage 100% even with a little tap(like when you plug the wheel in for the first time) which with no abs is kind of wild.

If I would install SS tyers come on the track, go back and install RS tyers then it would go back to normal 50% of the time, but would not guaranty it wouldn't start to happen again without any notice or even on the same stint.

While at Ascari force feedback felt weak when the grip would start to glitch, and would be and stay strong as long as the glitch wasn't present. Also my car would have a weightless/floatly feel.

My parts installed would randomly change, fluctuating my PP by as little as 13 and as much as 40PP, stage 3 lighten was the only part that would always change everything else was random uninstalls.

Conclusion..........I don't have one, Ive tried to think of everything I can digital to disk incompatibilities, lack of fixed host, rims, paint I really don't know. One thing is for certain this has only happened to cars that have had Gt auto parts installed currently or at one time, and those were cars i bought day 1. A vehicle that has never had these parts has never been an issue, and it seem to be a problem with racing tyers and very rare if ever with sports or comfort tyers.

I apologize if I may have offended anyone with my elitist comment, but it does seem that a higher % of people that have said "it's your driving" are also using non racing tyers. I would be curious to see if the people who don't have this problem have installed rims or paint.
Click to expand...
 
The Stratos is great stock, or with very sticky tires, but I used it for a few races in the IB tier and it is too powerful for how light it is. Definitely too wrily for me.
 
I've won 29 races in my Acura NSX 1991, including races against Le Mans GT type cars and Japanese touring cars, alongside races against Ferrari FXX, Enzo, Mclaren F1, Bugatti Veyron.

It began life as a standard car, getting upgraded over time in order to keep up with other cars. The thing drives amazingly, it's my favourite car in the game actually at the moment. The only track it has stability issues on is High Speed Ring, in the International B championship I came second at HSR because I span. All the other races I won despite a power disadvantage due to the amazing cornering ability and handling. There is nothing wrong with
this car, not even remotely. Concerning Racing Hard tyres, they do appear to have less grip than Sports Softs, but they are harder to heat up (could be a cause) and they also last a lot longer.

I also have an NSX Type R 02, i did a 15min race at Nordschleife (IA I think). It's also modified but has stock wheels and no aero parts. Again this was a race against racing cars, the lead car was the BMW Mclaren F1 Longtail racing car. Sure the car was difficult to drive (sports soft tyres) but even with some mistakes, spins and offtracks (caused by the AI cars blocking, fishtailing or pushing me off) I was lapping the ring in 7mins, in a 400hp modified street car on semi-slicks, and after many attempts being knocked off the track by the other cars I caught and passed the Mclaren, only for him to knock me off the track again on the 3rd lap. So then I had to catch him again and finally passed him down the back straight and I won.

The car is difficult to drive in very high speed sections yes, but its not broken... far from it. Infact it's very much like it has been in Gran Turismo, Gran Turismo 2, Gran Turismo 3, Gran Turismo 4 and Gran Turismo 5. The NSX is an amazingly well balanced MR car with a stability issue at very high speeds, it excells on slow/medium speed circuits such as Brands Hatch, or even Bathurst (no high speed corners, only straights with big stop zones). Yes it takes skill to drive it at racing speeds, there is nothing wrong or off about that.
 
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Sander 001
Let me dumb it down a notch so you may understand: There are conditions which can cause the physics simulation of the game to change and become faulty and inconsistent.

See if this is to your understanding:
Click to expand...
Did you understand what was said there? I'd encourage you to pay attention to the details before you try and insult anyone's intelligence. It is NOT the vehicles that are broken, but the modifications being applied are causing issues with the performance. This thread is regarding "broken vehicles" not general bugs/glitches.
 
Stotty
One thing to try...

I was having some issues with the RUF RGT (very snappy at the rear and almost impossible to catch once it started to slide). I changed back to the standard rims from the +2" ones I'd fitted it with and it became much easier to drive - more progressive and adjustable.

Not sure if this is just in my mind, but I posted my testing in this thread https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/rufs-and-tire-physics.293069/ (post#16) - I haven't had time to test on other cars yet.

I'd be interested in other peoples findings/opinions.
Click to expand...

I tested with Countach 25th '88, the rim +1 and +2 inch up has bug, the rear tires gets skinnier when fitted with bigger wheels and has less rear grip/traction. Tested at Willow Springs with comfort medium, I can't hold similar cornering speed like it used to with stock rim and the rear becomes more twitchy overall.

To anyone who has issues with MR, better stick with standard wheel.
 
Ridox2JZGTE
I tested with Countach 25th '88, the rim +1 and +2 inch up has bug, the rear tires gets skinnier when fitted with bigger wheels and has less rear grip/traction. Tested at Willow Springs with comfort medium, I can't hold similar cornering speed like it used to with stock rim and the rear becomes more twitchy overall.
Click to expand...

I noticed the tyres were skinnier, but I always assumed this was purely cosmetic. It wasn’t until I tested the RGT that I suspected there might be something else going on.

Needs more testing by more members though… 2 drivers and 2 cars doesn’t prove a suspicion :)
 
Lewis_Hamilton_
For those that are having major problems, perhaps you could upload a replay from cockpit view with all of the race info on display. To me it sounds like an issue of too much brake, throttle and steering input, or possibly not quick enough reactions to the vehicle stepping out. A replay would show whether this is the problem or not.
Click to expand...

Indeed. These pages upon pages of descriptions are useless.
 
I have a problem with Audi R18 Anniversary model. Car pulls strongly to left or right, when braking. I have old Driving Force wheel.

My brother has Driving Force GT and with that wheel this Audi don't behave like this. The car is in default settings.

I haven't found any other car behaving like this.
Can anyone with old Driving Force wheel confirm this behaving. Thanks.
 
fightnightchamp
Please take what I'm about to say seriously, and try to help me an everyone else who is having this problem. Their seems to be an elitist mentality about this topic. I 100% know for fact that their is a huge bug. I just rage quit GT6 tonight due to this. If you think I'm just a scrub and can't drive send me an PSN friend invite PSN= atsoc75

Day 1........the NSX R 02 was broken with RH tyers, SS and RS tyers were fine. If I were to use 50% throttle in 3rd gear @ 30-50MPH and just let off the accelerator the car would spin out like the rear end was on ice, and traveling at 150MPH. It's almost like the car has RS tyers in the front and SH tyers in the back. A day or two later and it was fine again, and I thought it was fixed through a patch or because of server maintenance. I was wrong.

Last night a friend and I opened a lobby and started to tune a 111R at Deep forest reverse. car was handling very good @500PP on SS tyers but I put it away early as it's a cheese car and we were no longer racing solo.


This morning i went online to continue with the 111R. I immediately realized something was wrong, and sure enough the tune didn't save. Actually none of the parts i purchased were even bought, but the money I spent on them was gone go figure. No worries i took a picture of the tune on my phone but after i put the tune back on the 111R it was un drivable just like the NSX was. just as I was about to try to retune the car I received a message from a friend to join his lobby.

Grand vally east 500PP SS tyer no ABS. I immediately get on the track to try and figure out what the deal is, but get this the 111R is on rails just like the night before, with the same tune and tyers. Confused I jump back in the NSX R just to see what happens. The car is great on SS tyers so I tell my friend to un resrict the tyers and I install a set of RS tyers. Guess what its un drivable!!!!!!!!

We debate back and forth about whats happening to my cars for at least 30 min while i do a few laps. Weird time glitches were happening 1st time marker -55.xx.xx entering the tunnel, -99.55..xx.xx entering the last corner. We come to a conclusion that it might be the upgraded rims. So I go buy another NSX R 02, 111r, and a CSL but no paint, no rims, just an oil change. I start with the new NSX and it was perfectly fine. We conclude that it's obviously the rims. I run a few 8 lappers with him, and some randoms back on SS tyers. I started to tell a friend who just joined whats been going on to see if he has had some similar issues. This is were it starts to get really weird, as i pull out the glitched NSX to show him how un drivable it was, once again it was on rails while using RS tyers.

Fed up I call it a night but notice a friend just got on (he's had the same problem with the MR Diablo, installed rims, and painted it) so I join his lobby to discuss what has happened. He tells me he sold the car and bought a new one left it stock rims and paint and has no issues. I decide to run a few laps with him at Ascari. Both my CSL, and NSX are busted on RS tyers again. I'm so angry at this point and determined to figure this out, as I'm in and out of the pit at least 30xs (only going to the 3rd turn before returning to the tuning page) I start to discover more problems.....

Every time i come out on the track the breaks would engage 100% even with a little tap(like when you plug the wheel in for the first time) which with no abs is kind of wild.

If I would install SS tyers come on the track, go back and install RS tyers then it would go back to normal 50% of the time, but would not guaranty it wouldn't start to happen again without any notice or even on the same stint.

While at Ascari force feedback felt weak when the grip would start to glitch, and would be and stay strong as long as the glitch wasn't present. Also my car would have a weightless/floatly feel.

My parts installed would randomly change, fluctuating my PP by as little as 13 and as much as 40PP, stage 3 lighten was the only part that would always change everything else was random uninstalls.

Conclusion..........I don't have one, Ive tried to think of everything I can digital to disk incompatibilities, lack of fixed host, rims, paint I really don't know. One thing is for certain this has only happened to cars that have had Gt auto parts installed currently or at one time, and those were cars i bought day 1. A vehicle that has never had these parts has never been an issue, and it seem to be a problem with racing tyers and very rare if ever with sports or comfort tyers.

I apologize if I may have offended anyone with my elitist comment, but it does seem that a higher % of people that have said "it's your driving" are also using non racing tyers. I would be curious to see if the people who don't have this problem have installed rims or paint.
Click to expand...

Seriously, props for all this testing. But, cars changing in the middle of a race makes no sense. Maybe the parts and tune are changing sometime, sure ... I can get on board. But lap to lap in one race? I don't see that happening. The only logical way I see GT working is that the car/tune/parts are loaded in to the physics model on race start and left there. They shouldn't change on track ... there would likely be no code running to even allow that.

What I assume is that some cars are touchy to controls and you are unconsciously making small changes or missing some other data that leads to the spin and handling issues.

The one things I've noticed in terms of inconsistency in cars is tire temps. Once I get the rears hot, they are like 200000% more likely to lose grip in the next 5 seconds. I found this come in to play a lot when doing the challenges with the MR cars in the IB class. But it was consistently ... inconsistent. I knew what I had done to loop the car. When I was gentle with the car and not turning in under braking or throttling on to early, they were all very compliant. If I didn't do that, I got loose, tires got hot, and it spun.

I haven't noticed any handling inconsistencies with cars within races or with paint/wheel changes. I'm not super fast, but I tend to be pretty consistent. I use a wheel to, so maybe that helps me smooth things out.

So, in short ... If parts are changing, that needs to be fixed. But I don't think that is the issue. I think people are just too aggressive or change driving style situationally without realizing it.
 
Lewis_Hamilton_
I've driven a bunch of MR cars now and can't find anything broken about them. I still find the controller sensitivity a bit iffy in GT6 but I'm used to it now. As for these broken cars, I've also tried them fully tuned, with SM tyres and all cars have been painted, with their rims swapped and increased in size.

The only car I thought was particularly difficult was the Cizeta, the car is on a knife edge on slow corners but adapting to it, it is driveable. Others, such as the Yellowbird, BTR, Diablo GT2, NSX and others handled exactly as I expected. The back end steps out and you need the right amount of throttle and care, the end result is a car that can actually pull out of a corner very quickly and being slightly sideways while doing it.

I spent a good 2 hours last night on the Nurb, Monza and Bathhurst in an online free run room with a 750hp BTR and Diablo on SM tyres with all aids off, and I had an absolute hoot. Only times I span out was when I dipped a wheel into the grass with the steering wheel turned.

For those that are having major problems, perhaps you could upload a replay from cockpit view with all of the race info on display. To me it sounds like an issue of too much brake, throttle and steering input, or possibly not quick enough reactions to the vehicle stepping out. A replay would show whether this is the problem or not.
Click to expand...

You’re one of the fastest drivers on the site, so it doesn’t surprise me you don’t struggle like the majority 👍

Personally, I haven’t driven any of the supposedly ‘broken’ cars yet – I’ve been concentrating on finishing career mode for the main part and have only used a few different cars for this, none of which I found impossible to control.

I have noticed a couple of things different to GT5 though…

Once you start to lose grip, the difference between catching the slide and spinning is much smaller in GT6 than GT5.

I’ve been using a mixture of wheel and pad to play through career and I’ve found it much easier to catch slides with the pad than the wheel (though I have always been able to drift reasonably well with the pad and not with the wheel). With the wheel, I’ve found the cars have a tendency to snap back quite violently once the tyres start to turn red, and this pulls the wheel back in the opposite direction. Of course this might just be me not yet adapting toGT6’s physics, but I never struggled with this in GT5P or GT5.
 
The only thing "Broken" is the feedback you get in the car settings for what the changes are doing. It's too trial and error, with far too many factors affecting the trial.

Car over steers - Go tune - have no idea what does what, so I tweak this number over here - go test and get CRAZY oversteer (most like from some unrelated reason) - go tune blindly again.

From all that we've seen in GT5, the game does have the ability to report back car behavior to the user. it would be immensely useful if we could get a section (maybe in GT Auto) that helped players adjust their cars.

How did they arrive at the base spring rates? Why are some cars fine to drive while other want to spin at the slightest hint of steering input? There is just a lot of unnecessary confusion happening and it all circles around the core game play, so that should be addressed.
 

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