Tactile Info & Buyers Guide / Comparisons / Opinions - Work In Progress

[PetroVit78]

Oh yea and by the way.

A few more questions......

I`ve been thinking of doing the cheap chassis mode solution with an vintage 5.1 amp and I`ve been wondering. Does the amp have to be 4 ohm capable? This seems to be the advice given, but is this mostly based on that most transducers are 4 ohms?

I`ve seen a transducers like this: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B007CJA0M0/ which is a dual voice coil which can be configured to a 8 ohm setup easily. Should work with an 8 ohm amp, no? Just trying to see if I can broaden my options as far as amps are concerned.

Btw, have anyone tried these: http://www.getgoods.de/detail/index..._campaign=Sinustec ST-BS 250 Bass-Shaker 100W ??

Petro

 

[Mr Latte]

Try to go over some of your questions and help explain things more...

I will have updates for the build in a week as things shown are not final. If you think it looks impressive or good now their is much more to come...

The seats back section will use isolators to ensure metal is not in contact with the carbon fibre back of the seat. It will, all being well tilt with the recline feature but maintain contact through the isolator to minimise rattle etc.


Duplicating / Splitting A Channel
I use these terms at different times, what I mean by this is simple.

Example: Left Channel (effects frequency range using 20Hz - 90Hz)
Using a "Y splitter" or (distribution box) connected to each +/- cable

You now have 2 sets of identical cables which can both be amplified to give you:

A) Two identical sets of tactile of the same channel and same settings (possibly for different positions on the cockpit).

B) Using inuke DSP amplifier to control exactly the "Frequency Range" for original and new duplicate


Splitting Workload
Lets assume someone wanted to do B above:

Example: Left Channel (effects frequency range using 20Hz - 90Hz)

Using the inuke DSP features we split the frequency range into 2 halving the range.
So the more capable or better unit would handle the low bass and the other the mid-high frequencies.

Left Channel (20Hz - 40Hz)
Duplicate L (40Hz - 90Hz)

Now you are dividing ALL the effects on a "Channel" across two units.
Regardless of the number of effects you use in Simvibe (more/less user pref)

(The Hz split can vary to suit the users preference and hardware)

* NOTE: Potential is maximised with a mix of Buttkicker PISTON based unit & with SPEAKER type tactile units.
**NOTE: Performance benefits and results with other types may vary.

Budget Dual Channel Example:
Mini LFE & ADX or Mini LFE & Clark T209



Better Dispersion?
With two units it creates perhaps more installation effort of course.
The benefit however is that most people doing so should be able to spread the effects better into their seat or pedals.

Basically unlike a single unit you are no longer relying on one "impact zone" typically with high energy in the centre and it fading into the attached surface as it disperses.

Instead this is giving the ability to experiment with harnessing additional "contact areas" using the sides/back of your seat. With the goal of improved dispersion but also enabling better directionality of "Chassis" effects.

The majority of detail for such effects will be noticed in the (40-90Hz) using the secondary unit.


Why Duplicate / Split The Frequency Vs Simvibe Tactile Roles
This is the key decision and not one easily answered, we need opinions/feedback to help determine the alternative options. On my own configuration I know I will gain benefits but for others the degree of such will vary depending on the users build and hardware used.

A Simvibe well planned and installed tactile configuration may use both "Chassis" and "Extensions". In fact their are many great examples to be found. I am curious myself to know which effects are most popularly combined or used by such people to get the best results.

With so many variables some may define "Engine/Gear" based effects to "Extensions" and exclude these on their tactile units being used for "Chassis". Others may want them included to give a stronger effect?

Independent Chassis Tactile
It does make sense to have individual tactile for "Chassis" so those units can produce the effects with no other intrusions. This also reduces the work load the tactile has to generate. What I am curious myself is the frequency range commonly being used for the "Chassis Effects". (I assume) regards suspension/bumps/road noise etc most will utilise the lower frequency ranges but some effects are bound to be busy in the mid ranges too.

Engine Tactile - Hz Range
I would be keen to get an idea on peoples settings in Simvibe regards the REV-RANGE and frequencies (Hz) that are being utilised. Whos gonna help?

These frequencies can be very low Hz from a car at idle typically up to @ 3K- 4K range but will go into the mid bass frequencies. I believe Simvibe helps with options to reduce idle bottoming and maintain good tactile across the rev range.

Dual Installation Vs Independent Effects Tactile?
So why split the tactile range if it is possible to do Chassis/Engine individual roles some may be asking?
It really comes down to the potential benefits of utilising two units and increasing the efficiency per "Chassis" channel as discussed above.

With a set of units utilising individual operating frequencies and more precise points of installation being possible. The set goal and intention to emphasise the "Chassis" directional effects as effectively as possible should be realised better than with a single unit covering all the frequencies in the channel.

The other viable reason is simply addressing the characteristics of different tactile devices. Buttkicker PISTON based models work best with low frequencies. Clark in particular but possibly other SPEAKER based models (Aura Pro, ADX, Reckhorn etc) may provide better detail and faster responses with mid frequencies.

Simvibe & Game Audio
A configuration could work with "Game Audio" & "Simvibe" with appropriate cabling.
Key point to remember, to your tactile they are no different. It is just that "Simvibe" puts you in the seat as being the sound producer in determining what and how the individual effects are generated. With "Game Audio" you cannot gain control to set effects but potentially with suitable hardware only control of individual frequencies.

 

[Mr Latte]

Oh yea and by the way.

A few more questions......

I`ve been thinking of doing the cheap chassis mode solution with an vintage 5.1 amp and I`ve been wondering. Does the amp have to be 4 ohm capable? This seems to be the advice given, but is this mostly based on that most transducers are 4 ohms?

I`ve seen a transducers like this: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B007CJA0M0/ which is a dual voice coil which can be configured to a 8 ohm setup easily. Should work with an 8 ohm amp, no? Just trying to see if I can broaden my options as far as amps are concerned.

Btw, have anyone tried these: http://www.getgoods.de/detail/index/sArticle/1310432?sPartner=idealo.de&utm_source=idealo.de&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Sinustec ST-BS 250 Bass-Shaker 100W ??

Petro

You could connect two 4ohm tactile in series for 8ohm load.
Google for wiring options...

The SINUS yes it is 8ohm but if the coils are smaller it might not perform much better than a ADX/AURA. I've not seen anyone discuss a comparison of them. With some 50W to dual coil 100 watt. Some people may be swayed by the flawed mindset of wattage (100W) in that higher is always better.

My belief is their are many of the budget units that utilise the same/similar tech as AURA PRO. None of the owners here of ADX bothered to open one to see if it is the same as AURA PRO. The other you linked looks identical to Reckhorn or k-woon which again I believe is potentially one of these many clones?

Which country are you based and what vintage amp?

 

[PetroVit78]

Hello!

I`m going to read that first post tomorrow and hopefully my head will work!

Anyways I`m based in norway and on the used marked these are the amps I have been wondering about. Hopefully my list can be critqued and complimented with workable options for tactile setups. Regional differences might hamper this though.

Sony str-db830
https://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-home.pl?mdl=STRDB830&template_id=1&region_id=1&tab=manuals#

Sony str-db2000
http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/4247241161.pdf

sony str-db930qs
http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/3866968511.pdf

Sony STR-DB940
http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/4229127522.pdf


These first four is available at somewhere between 100 and 170 euros.

Then you have three more expensive ones starting with the denon at 230 euros and the 2 other below not far behind. That is before asking price, but there is always haggeling.

Denon AVR 3805
http://www.hifi-pictures.net/amplifiers-home/Denon AVR-3805/Denon AVR3805.pdf

Yamaha RX-V667
http://download.yamaha.com/api/asset/file/?language=en&site=europe.yamaha.com&asset_id=45249

Cambridge Audio 540
https://techsupport.cambridgeaudio.com/hc/en-us/articles/200568271-Azur-540R-6-1-AV-Receiver

I`m having a hard time finding amps capable of 4ohm and 100w, most of the amps can manage 100w and upwards at 8ohms, but typically drops down to 80 or 90 rms at 4ohm. There is one sony DA5000es (290 euros) and one sony da3000es (230 euros)available, but will cost extra for shipment and they are already on the expensive side (for my budget). They are well specced though!!

I`m going to contact the vendor and ask him about those bass pumps I mentioned in former post. Can`t seem to get any good info on them, other than a few sporadic posts. The bbp ones go down to 25 hz apparently weigh almost 2 kg and is described as having alot more punch than the regular sinus bass pump 3`s. The Sinustec st-bs250 I`ve found info makes me believe that the hz range from 30 to 100 (very not sure lol), but I`ve seen them described as somewhat stronger than the pump3.

We have no vendors for buttkickers except some gamer2 that I`m aware of in my country.

Anyways, thats where its at.

catch you later!

 

[Mr Latte]

Just a point to note that often USA RECIEVER models wattages are often higher than UK/EUR
Be sure it is UK/Euro manual if checking any out.

Tactile is hard on amps, some AV models inc Sony usually have auto protection switch off if overheating. You do not want to be running close to MAX volume for all channels particularly on cheap quality amplification. In the past I have used the Sony models below with no real issues and reasonable volume.

PM if interested, I have in storage some possibly suitable gear which I was going to ebay:

2x Sony 1200 ES / SILVER
Manual / UK See Page 105

1x Sony 5200 ES / SILVER
Manual / UK See Page 128

2x Buttkicker Mini Concert
2-3 Aura Pro

------------------------------

For NEW items...

Buttkicker Sales
Thomann

Norway Shipping = Not a problem

Parts Express Do WORLDWIDE shipping and discounts on multiples.
Worth considering for ADX or Clark Tactile T209

Parts Express
Remember to factor in shipping and import charges to your country.

I would advise buying 2 tactile units of better quality/brand than buying 4 cheaper.
No regrets later then if cheaper solution does not satisfy.

Hope this helps...

 

[Mr Latte]

Some long overdue updates added to first page on 4 channel amp options...

Asking again if anyone that is an owner of the ADX tactile unit will help by opening the casing of one and photographing....

It would be good to confirm if it is an AURA PRO clone or not and clarify the issue which is possibly the best £50 / $50 tactile unit to buy...

 

[Soulfresh_ACV]

Just to follow up on the little cross-over device and ADX transducer since I mounted everything in an 16mm MDF board underneath the racing seat on my rig.

Built quality of the cross-over device is pretty bad as the RCA bit were loose so plugging in the RCA cables were a bit tricky. Anyway, I think it works well, adjusted the cut-off frequency to around 90hz and loving every bit of the strong bass/tactile feedback I'm getting from music and still excellent with movie. (Even though I could hear some other sounds coming through the transducer, not sure if it's the device cross-over device blame or it's normal)

So impressed that I'm definitely looking at investing in at least two more ADX transducers for my couch but have to wait for discounts because shipping such items from US to AUS are expensive.

I'm underwhelmed with Simvibe though. Using it for Project CARS and still struggling to tune it properly so that I get the rattling feedback I long for driving over the rumble strips. Definitely nothing to do with hardware or mounting.

Recap on inexpensive setup:

• ADX Maximus Tactile Bass Shaker (USD$66)
• Crossover Device (USD$15)
• Skytec SPL-300 300watts amplifier (USD$40)
• Simvibe 4 (USD$89)

All-in-all, I'm very happy so far having no prior experience with bass transducers. Thanks to all who contributed their knowledge on the matter especially @Mr Latte

Didn't like the massive size and the look of Skytec Amp sitting around the lounge and ended up buying SMSL TERA TRA160 160W/4Ω for USD$90. This is an updated version of an older version SMSL SA98E which I can eventually use this in the future for powering bookshelf speakers as it is a quality and powerful amp with good reviews by audiophiles. Like Skytec, it's goes as low as 30hz but I suspect thats the lowest ADX transducer can go.

Unfortunately, the less powerful version SMSL SA50 or SMSL SA60 based on my limited knowledge, isn't enough to power tactile transducers which are at 4ohms. @Mr Latte, please correct me if this assumption is incorrect. And also thoughts or any experience with SMSL amps?

 

[Soulfresh_ACV]

Some long overdue updates added to first page on 4 channel amp options...

Asking again if anyone that is an owner of the ADX tactile unit will help by opening the casing of one and photographing....

It would be good to confirm if it is an AURA PRO clone or not and clarify the issue which is possibly the best £50 / $50 tactile unit to buy...

I'd like to know too. Don't you have ADX?

I'm currently waiting for Amazon Black Friday Deals Week and would like to buy 3 more. Two for the sofa and one for the pedals. If it's the same, I might as well get the Auras as they're cheaper.

PS. It's extremely frustrating that no distributors for other tactile transducers other than Buttkicker (which too expensive). The shipping cost is so expensive sent from the US all the way down under. @Mr Latte , if you have a choice, two Auras/ADX or one Buttkicker Mini LFE for a 2.5 seater sofa?

 

[Mr Latte]

I'd like to know too. Don't you have ADX?

I'm currently waiting for Amazon Black Friday Deals Week and would like to buy 3 more. Two for the sofa and one for the pedals. If it's the same, I might as well get the Auras as they're cheaper.

PS. It's extremely frustrating that no distributors for other tactile transducers other than Buttkicker (which too expensive). The shipping cost is so expensive sent from the US all the way down under. @Mr Latte , if you have a choice, two Auras/ADX or one Buttkicker Mini LFE for a 2.5 seater sofa?

No I never had one, that is why I asked if someone could spend 20 mins of their day opening one. Yet while people are happy to ask questions and get help they seem less enthusiastic to help likewise. I very much expect it to perform similar if not identical.

I'd like to know too. Don't you have ADX?

I'm currently waiting for Amazon Black Friday Deals Week and would like to buy 3 more. Two for the sofa and one for the pedals. If it's the same, I might as well get the Auras as they're cheaper.

PS. It's extremely frustrating that no distributors for other tactile transducers other than Buttkicker (which too expensive). The shipping cost is so expensive sent from the US all the way down under. @Mr Latte , if you have a choice, two Auras/ADX or one Buttkicker Mini LFE for a 2.5 seater sofa?

For a sofa, well neither. Id recommend the BK ADVANCE or fullsize LFE.
However Mini LFE will hit harder than Aura Pro. Yet 2x Aura Pro will distribute the effects better. Just depends on what you want. One unit could create a "Hot Spot" at point of installation. It may take some experimenting my friend.

 

[jimipitbull]

It's extremely frustrating that no distributors for other tactile transducers other than Buttkicker (which too expensive). The shipping cost is so expensive sent from the US all the way down under.

Quite often see these on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TACTILE-...825499?hash=item41993d9a5b:g:pGoAAOSwgQ9VnLq1

I have a pair of them, they are a lot stronger than the Auras. Not sure how they compare with any of the buttkickers though.

http://www.earthquakesound.eu/gaming-audio/bass-shaker-and-accessories/mqb-1-miniquake.aspx

 

[Mr Latte]

Quite often see these on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TACTILE-...825499?hash=item41993d9a5b:g:pGoAAOSwgQ9VnLq1

I have a pair of them, they are a lot stronger than the Auras. Not sure how they compare with any of the buttkickers though.

http://www.earthquakesound.eu/gaming-audio/bass-shaker-and-accessories/mqb-1-miniquake.aspx

While not having ever owned these they would rate well against the Mini LFE and indeed a good bit better than AP etc.

I do recall from many years back regards peoples comparisons on "Home Cinema Forums" regards the original/biggest Earthquake model was rather good but not a match for sheer depth of slam/power of the full-size LFE model.

 

[Mr Latte]

Didn't like the massive size and the look of Skytec Amp sitting around the lounge and ended up buying SMSL TERA TRA160 160W/4Ω for USD$90. This is an updated version of an older version SMSL SA98E which I can eventually use this in the future for powering bookshelf speakers as it is a quality and powerful amp with good reviews by audiophiles. Like Skytec, it's goes as low as 30hz but I suspect thats the lowest ADX transducer can go.

Unfortunately, the less powerful version SMSL SA50 or SMSL SA60 based on my limited knowledge, isn't enough to power tactile transducers which are at 4ohms. @Mr Latte, please correct me if this assumption is incorrect. And also thoughts or any experience with SMSL amps?

I have never used the SMSL, they do seem to be powerful little things. Several owners rant about them over at ISR but most I believe are using them with budget AP or other easy to drive tactile. I would welcome more user feedback with them on other tactile.

My concern about them is their listed distortion levels of 10% compared to most *listed specs of quality amps having .01 so big difference. I have not seen "Audiophiles Reviews" but that is a heck of a lot distortion. I would love to hear of A/B comparisons to some other known good amps.

Is this a factor in creating distortion noise with tactile? Would it potentially lose detail in Simvibe?

I am unsure but distortion is never a good thing to improving sound TONES. However some options in Simvibe are used I believe to clean distortion "FALSE CLUE ELIMINATION" being one, so not sure how much in real world usage it is a factor.

Great move getting rid of the SKYTEK do remember quality of amplification is not depicted in watts. Oh and btw you can test ANY tactile units HZ Range with sound-tone generator websites or videos on Youtube.

Note below 20Hz is not audible yet you may see comments of people "saying yah I could hear down to 5Hz with my Apple earbuds". They are hearing distortion not the TONE.

 

[Soulfresh_ACV]

My concern about them is their listed distortion levels of 10% compared to most *listed specs of quality amps having .01 so big difference. I have not seen "Audiophiles Reviews" but that is a heck of a lot distortion. I would love to hear of A/B comparisons to some other known good amps.

Thanks. Learned something again. Does sound quite a lot. That's why most people buy them mostly for bookshelves speakers for casual listening. At the end of the day, I'll make sure not to push it too hard in the future if I use this for speakers to minimise or at least not adding more distortion.

Great move getting rid of the SKYTEK do remember quality of amplification is not depicted in watts. Oh and btw you can test ANY tactile units HZ Range with sound-tone generator websites or videos on Youtube.

When starting out and for something that's pretty hard for a newbie to notice the difference with any prior experience, it was purely a price factor decision more than anything. That's why I kept the original box and it will go back in it and will be stored for rainy days as they say lol.

Note below 20Hz is not audible yet you may see comments of people "saying yah I could hear down to 5Hz with my Apple earbuds". They are hearing distortion not the TONE.

haha good one. I still feel faint vibrations at around 25hz with Bass Test 100 Hz to 5 Hz Ultimate Subwoofer Bass Test on YT. To be honest, I'm not too picky. If I can't hear the bass, I don't mind not feeling it.

 

[Soulfresh_ACV]

Quite often see these on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TACTILE-...825499?hash=item41993d9a5b:g:pGoAAOSwgQ9VnLq1

I have a pair of them, they are a lot stronger than the Auras. Not sure how they compare with any of the buttkickers though.

http://www.earthquakesound.eu/gaming-audio/bass-shaker-and-accessories/mqb-1-miniquake.aspx

Really appreciate it. I'll wait after Black Friday/Cyber Monday and see if any discounts. How do you mount this under the sofa as it looks quite heavy.

 

[jimipitbull]

Really appreciate it. I'll wait after Black Friday/Cyber Monday and see if any discounts. How do you mount this under the sofa as it looks quite heavy.

Really depends on the sofa. You can screw it straight down onto something horizontal, or attach to the 90 degree mounting plate and screw the plate to a vertical piece of the sofa frame. They aren't all that heavy (1.5kg), but do need something solid to mount to.

Mine came as a pair for around the same price as that one on ebay. That was a few years ago though.

 

[Mr Latte]

You might also have an option to look out for the Pearl Thumper which is available in AUS.
It is basically a Buttkicker Advance version of the "Gamer" used for drum thrones comes with a specialised clamp and has its own amplifer. Could be found in music/instrument based specialists if not in your local ebay/amazon etc

R SEAT cockpits use and promote these also.
See Here

THMP-1 THRONE THUMPER

 

[spinelli]

Hi.

First of all, I'd like to thank Mr Latte for all the great info and contributions.

OK, so I think I'm finally going to get into tactile feedback for my simracing (well, I guess general gaming and movies too but 90% of my time is with simracing). I want 2 for stereo left/right feedback. Maybe 4 or more in the future but minimum is 2 or nothing.

I want to go the inexpensive route but don't wan't the "cheap of the cheap". So I'm thinking about the buttkicker gamer 2 / simulation kit. There is a deal for the simulation kit for $150, it's normally $200 and I might buy it (I don't care if I have to wait because it's out of stock if it means getting 25% off).

My question is...The gamer 2 and the simulation kit both use identical units, correct? It seems they both use the Mini Concert model. If so, how does this differ from the Mini LFE model which seems identical to the Mini Concert other than being 4 Ohm instead of 2 Ohm? Basically, what is better for simracing, the Mini Concert / Gamer or the Mini LFE?

Some more info
I might get Simvibe or might just use straight audio; I'll figure that out later. I have an Auzentech X-Fi Forte 7.1 soundcard. The only outputs I use are the headphone out to my headphones and the main sound output (front left/right??) to my Panasonic Mini System stereo (one jack from sound card out which splits to left/right to stereo left and right inputs). I will need to incorporate my dual transducers into this setup; there is no way I'm getting rid of my stereo.

Help me finally get into this...

 

[Mr Latte]

Not sure if you refer to USA $
The Concert models are identical in size but they seem more focused to music applications/drum rigs etc.
I believe they are meant to have slightly less low end performance and give a stronger mid range frequency response.
Is it part marketing, perhaps I really cant say as I have never seen proper comparison of each or technical data on each performance in how they differ.

The 4ohm rating is much more widespread and the rating used within the music and PA industry.
I would of course recommend to get alternative amplification. The inuke DSP will give you control of how your tactile operates and to help eliminate/restrict the annoying "over-driving" of the piston. Standard amplifiers of any type will still have the issue.

The DSP using the PEQ is a useful tool used to tune the tactile to your rig and preference with whatever source you use. Some in this thread have not understood its purpose properly, thinking it is for altering Simvibe effects after they have been generated. The purpose is to control how your tactile operate with specific frequencies, such control allows you to minimise the "overdriving" by reducing, only the power of Hz frequencies that cause it. This way you can determine how strong individual frequencies are output not just a global volume for all combined. It really is a simple to use based EQ that lets you tune how your tactile operates.

Also these amplifiers have wattage protection and support 2ohm or 4ohm as well. These are the reasons I still recommend them.

Perhaps before deciding it is good for you to ask Gamer 2 owners about the "over-driving" issue. The truth is, the packages you seek are "Beginner / Entry Level" type products, so do have performance limitations.

This thread highlights the importance of a good amplifier but also that the inuke DSP is STILL one of the best solutions on the market at a low-mid price for gaining a better tactile performance.

 

[spinelli]

Thanks, I understand they are entry level but I read they are better than the $50 Aura and other models in that price range.

I was under the impression the Gamer was identical to the Mini Concert but just painted a different colour (red) and with a different mount. Two things led me to believe this:

- They both have identical specs on the Buttkicker website (including the Ohm-rating)

- The Simulation kit looks like it uses the Mini Concert


Maybe I'll send Butkicker an email to ask.


I was reading about the amp you mentioned. How many Buttkicker Mini Concerts, Gamers, and/or Mini LFEs can it fully power?

 

[Mr Latte]

Yes they are a good choice for the price, but the weakness in the Buttkicker packages is the actual amps.
Certainly to my memory the larger Concert model is mentioned as being aimed to suit music applications, so I assumed the Mini Concert would also. Like I said I don't know how much of it is just down to using a different sticker/colour and marketing.

I do know in the past I opened the Mini LFE / Mini LFE SE / GAMER units and they were all identical inside. This thread covers the amp in plenty of detail, it is a stereo amp so obviously 2 units.

Best advice , if you are limited by budget at this time I would recommend to either hold off or to buy the inuke dsp 1000 and a single Buttkicer to get started, then later add the second.

 

[lightsRon]

I have an iNuke 1000dsp and 2 Aura Pro Shakers arriving on Monday and need some help setting them up, along with the iNuke DSP settings.

For now, with just 2 Aura Pro Shakers, should I wire them in Series on Channel A, which would result in an 8 ohm load, right? Should I be running the amp in BRIDGE mode? (or should I be splitting the LFE channel from my receiver into the Ch A & Ch B input on the amp, and then run a different mode on the iNuke)

Then in the future when I get 2 more Aura's I will wire those two in Series on Channel B to have separate gain control on each set. Will I still keep the 8 ohm load in the settings or will I change it to 16? I don't see a way to set both Channel A & B load ohms separately in Bridge Mode.

I'm confused about setting the Voltage & Watts. The Aura's are 50w RMS, so should I set the voltage to 40Vp to get the W to 100? Or can they handle more? When I hook up 2 more Shakers will I then set the Vp to 56.6 to get the W to 200?

I heard recommendations of setting the LPF to 20 and HPF to 40...and something about using the Butterworth. What exactly does that do?

I've attached screenshots of how I have it set for now...please let me know how it looks.

 

[Mr Latte]

@lightsRon just wanting to confirms some things with you.

Are you for using "Game Audio" or also for "Simvibe"?

You refer to using the LFE output of your receiver so I assume "Game Audio" but are you using this Reciever currently for speaker audio and wanting the LFE for your tactile? Or is the receiver just decoding Dolby Digital to pass on to the inuke/tactile?

The Wattage Limiter is simple to use you basically select the Ohm load and set the max wattage, that's it.
The filters to control the working range of the tactile, personally I would recommend 20Hz - 90Hz. The manual will better explain the different amp modes but you will likely use stereo or dual mono.

The Aura Pro peak around 40Hz so below this might not have any greater sense of depth/impact.
This website is handy for testing tones

 

[lightsRon]

Thanks for the replay @Mr Latte I appreciate it. To be honest with you I'll be using it mainly for movies. I just asked on this forum because I saw that you were helping a lot of people. Here are the things I'm stuck on now...

I will wire the 2 Auro Pro Shakers in Series on Channel A...

Question 1: What mode should I use on the DSP? Dual Mono or Stereo? Do I need to split the LFE signal into both the L & R Channel inputs on the iNuke while just using channel A now? What about if I get 2 more shakers in the future and wire those in series on Channel 2 (so I can have separate control over them) - will I need to split the signal into L & R input then?

Question 2: Should only put the Watts to 75 total even if I have 2 Shakers that each can handle that much?

 

[lightsRon]

I am running all of my sources into an Onkyo receiver, which is setup as a 5.1 system.

 

[Mr Latte]

Okay gotcha now...

The amp mode suits different usages, remember that these amps are typically used for PA type scenarios.
The manual refers to them on page 10 here. Much of it may depend on if the user wants to use the additional DSP features and controls and have independent control of each channel or operate both the same.

Page 10 also shows the software based output meter which would go into the red if the signal goes over the "wattage limiter" you set. Personally I have never wired in series before and unsure what wattage limit you should consider for the 8ohm, be it 50watt or probably the combined 2 units of 100watt. You may be fine with the 75watts but just ensure the units do not start to get too warm if being over-driven. Ideally I think you will feel when you are over-pushing them.

The amp states 160w per channel for 8ohm load so I see no reason why you couldn't eventually run 2 units in series on each channel. Personally I would use the "Mono" amplifier mode as it gives you independent control of the DSP. I say this as it would be a good way to compare all 4 with "dual units" on the left to the right with different DSP settings or levels. Assuming the construction of the seat is the same on both sides but additionally such control could give you a stronger intensity/sensation at one side or the other if desired? If this is of any interest you can save pre-sets to the amp you can instantly load if you have a "turn that down" at the other end of the couch. Of course much of this is down to how/where you install them if you might want that. The Aura Pro will possibly have a more limited dispersion range and most of its power kept close to the region of installation.

Personally I would recommend going with the four corners of the main structure if possible and maintain a L/R set. The reason for this is you could change the input source from being LFE to STEREO for different applications. Movies for LFE but Games and Music you might enjoy the STEREO tactile from. Just giving you ideas. If you like a bit of gaming it adds a lot to the fun over mono effects from LFE.

If using the LFE output I would split it for the A/B channels also be sure to set the filter on your Receiver to not below that on the inuke. You do not want it to be restricted but the inuke will set the final range the tactile operate with. Set the Receiver to 90Hz possibly also. If you use the tone generators you can feel for yourself how your installation feels at each 10Hz. You will likely be restricted with the low end but may have to use the PEQ to reduce the 60-70 range and these frequencies can be more distracting at high intensity, it depends on the tactile being used. You will feel rather little over the high 80s but as I recall the Aura Pro are not a bad unit for detail they just lack true depth.

Hope it is some help enjoy..

 

[lightsRon]

One of the Aura Pro Bass Shakers arrived dead, the other shakes pretty good...but it makes me wonder about how long the Aura's will last. I can get a good deal on 1 Buttkicker Advance and only pay $50 more for one of those compared to the 2 Aura Pro Shakers.

So how much will 1 Buttkicker Advance shake compared to 2 Aura Pro's? I plan to mount them onto a wood board I will attach to a 3 person couch.

The Buttkicker is rated at 75 watts minimum, 400 watts max. I checked in my iNuke Remote Connect Program and it should give it 312.5 watts. I'm not sure if that means MAX or RMS, any ideas on that?

 

[lightsRon]

Sorry, double post from my phone

 

[Mr Latte]

Ahh not nice when stuff arrives not working.
I do not believe that the Aura suffer from any major issues, you just seem to be unfortunate on this instance.

The Advance is in a different ballpark regards the depth sensation it will give. In that regard yes a great improvement but a single Advance on a couch may struggle with evenly spreading all the couch with that nice vibration. Was actually my first tactile unit too and impressed me at the time.

Do not worry so much about wattage differences it is also a poor way to try and compare their potential tactile output. The reason being the difference in how they operate and the Advance needing lots of watts just to move the internal piston.

I would go with the Advance and in time get another if you want more sensation.
Setting the wattage is based on selecting the Ohm rating and adjusting it to suit the tactile used, you cant go wrong with it really.

You may need to use the PEQ feature to help reduce the "piston pang" common with Buttkicker but again will walk you through it if need be.

 

[lightsRon]

Thank for all your help @Mr Latte
I've decided to go the cheaper route though...Me and the wife just bought our first house and are planning to have another baby (God willing) soon so it's definitely the better choice right now...If we had the money to spend I definitely would love to get the Buttkickers :-)

Aura Pro Shaker Power handling: 50 watts RMS/100 watts max
I'm still confused if I should set the iNuke to the total RMS Watts for 2 (100) or the Max Watts (200)?

Now onto my next question:

I was able to get my Monster DNA headphones hooked up at the same time as the Aura Pro Shaker, and it is shaking good. However, there is a little bit of audible sound coming from it - you can hear voices just barely when I have it cranked up. Will this hurt the Shaker or the Amp in any way? I can't hear it since I have my headphones on so it doesn't really matter in regards to the sound it is putting out, just want to make sure it isn't causing any damage.

Here is how I hooked it up:

1/4" Stereo to 3.5mm into my Onkyo receiver
regular 3.5mm headphone cable hooked into that
3.5mm extension cable hooked into that
female to female 3.5mm into that
3.5mm splitter into that
then headphones into one of the splits and 3.5mm to dual rca into the other (then 1 of those rca's into the amp)

 

[Mr Latte]

Good that you got it going....

Understand your situation with moving home and all the costs.
May indeed God Bless you both and with another future child.

The Aura Pro operate with 50w each fine so yes 2 (100)
They do make some sound yes that is normal.

Hope it helps...