Thatman's Rx7, R1 and Miata

  • Thread starter Thatman
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Yeah the stock turbo was completely rebuilt inside. Yes I have the 1.7 and the secondaries are 750cc. And I don't think I still have the stock fuel pressure regulator. Its kinda under the IC and didn't really think to check. ;) Semi related though I did have the pulsation dampener gone. No real way to check the exhaust temp that I know of.

And yes, that's what they suggested since I have a streetport. Although since that wasn't really outlined in their version of "moderately" modified Rx7s I'm hoping they could know the $30 off to the upgrade to the 2.0 Rtek chip.

Also the person before me tried really hard to make it into a 10 AE you are right. However, I wouldnt say that it was a "porno red" more like a "sensual red".:lol:
 
Well atleast they're working on porting the Rtek software to work on Android devices. Would make editing much easier than on a Palm. Maybe finally you'll be able to edit more than one cell at a time :). Wirelessly on a Android tablet would be sweet too.

Get a gauge on your FPR real quick and check your pressure. Gauges are cheap, and effrctive for diagnostics ya know. I take it your fuel pump has been rewired too? I've got my FPR mounted straight off the secondary rail, also ditched the pulsation damper. I'm going to run my gauge to see if I can pick up pressure bounces since it's straight off the rail. And obviously set pressure since I'm running a 255lph high pressure Walbro. Don't forsee it being an issue though. Also tucks nicely under the upper intake and intercooler for a stealth look.
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Get the video up, wanna hear the street port through that huge single exhaust. Loud enough? LOL!
 
Something isnt right that's all you made? I know a girl with stock turbo ecu street port bigger injectors and made 280
 
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mazdaman
Something isnt right that's all you made? I know a girl witg stock turbo ecu street port bigger onjectors and made 280

This I would like to see. Not saying it's impossible, but I have my doubts.

Stock turbo is very inefficient at the 12+psi range. I've never seen someone dyno a stock turbo engine at over 240ish to the wheel. The one car I've seen @ this level was a S4 N/A swapped to J-Spec S5 TII engine still thumping mid 90's on all 3 faces front and rear. Stock ports, Haltech E8, 720cc Primaries/1200cc Secondaries, stock turbo. Ported engine or not, stock turbo is crap. Logging boost I've never seen one hold 12psi+ all the way to 7,000. Most will start to die down to 8psi after 6,000. Using the stock waste gate actuator doesn't help the situation either. There's power left in revising Thatman's tune since it's fixed (pre-set), another 60WHP I doubt. Plus it comes into question where the dyno's are done. Correction factor adjustment or changing the brake specific will alter a dyno reading.

----

Back to making more power. If you do end up with the v2.0+ Rtek and end up buying new secondaries to switch your 750's to primaries..
Buy my TO4E V-Trim hybrid, I'll toss in a S5 exhaust manifold to match ;).
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Seriously I'm never going to use it, just sitting in the display case at the shop. The bag it's in is getting pretty dusty, lol...
 
This I would like to see. Not saying it's impossible, but I have my doubts.

Stock turbo is very inefficient at the 12+psi range. I've never seen someone dyno a stock turbo engine at over 240ish to the wheel. The one car I've seen @ this level was a S4 N/A swapped to J-Spec S5 TII engine still thumping mid 90's on all 3 faces front and rear. Stock ports, Haltech E8, 720cc Primaries/1200cc Secondaries, stock turbo. Ported engine or not, stock turbo is crap. Logging boost I've never seen one hold 12psi+ all the way to 7,000. Most will start to die down to 8psi after 6,000. Using the stock waste gate actuator doesn't help the situation either. There's power left in revising Thatman's tune since it's fixed (pre-set), another 60WHP I doubt. Plus it comes into question where the dyno's are done. Correction factor adjustment or changing the brake specific will alter a dyno reading.

----

Back to making more power. If you do end up with the v2.0+ Rtek and end up buying new secondaries to switch your 750's to primaries..
Buy my TO4E V-Trim hybrid, I'll toss in a S5 exhaust manifold to match ;).
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Seriously I'm never going to use it, just sitting in the display case at the shop. The bag it's in is getting pretty dusty, lol...
Look up judge ito sierras rx7 on rx7club hes a good friend of mines. We're talking about a well respected rotary enthusiast, on top of that you never seen more than 240 all I can say is wow lol

http://m.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=927120&page=2
I rest my case and she ran 12.4
 
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Nice R1, looks almost as good as my Fireblade.

Since personal opinion on motorcycle looks vary greatly I appreciate the compliment.:)

@MaliciousMD
I am at the point where I plan to just make it "reliable" :lol:
So being that the rebuilt stock and ported turbo I am just going to stick with that.

Something isnt right that's all you made? I know a girl with stock turbo ecu street port bigger injectors and made 280
Again you gotta remember, it just barley went to 8 Psi. Brand new from Mazda the S4 was only 182 at the crank. So i plan to get a Aeromotive FPR I may be able to snatch an SAFC so at that point I can slap on a boost controller and Turblown figures around 290. So we will see soon.
 
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What's the injectors cc also you can run a bigger turbo and still be reliable just go conservative on the tune...
 
550cc primary and 750cc secondary, and yes I could have a bigger turbo, but I'm focused on getting it to the point that I can rev the engine and not have to worry about anything.
I mean its a fresh stock turbo with the twin-scroll eliminated, I paid for it so why not use it?
 
550cc primary and 750cc secondary, and yes I could have a bigger turbo, but I'm focused on getting it to the point that I can rev the engine and not have to worry about anything.
I mean its a fresh stock turbo with the twin-scroll eliminated, I paid for it so why not use it?

I understand you on that part and try gsl se injectors in primary more fuel lol Also the girl made 280 on 9psi with a air filter trick
 
Air filter trick? I skimmed through it, didn't see anything like an air filter trick... But again, thats also an S5 vs an S4 engine as well, witch is at least 20 hp.
 
Air filter trick? I skimmed through it, didn't see anything like an air filter trick... But again, thats also an S5 vs an S4 engine as well, witch is at least 20 hp.

She has an s4 in it with 6port intake plates and according to him when we spoke he put the air filter by the front bumper
 
Well I figured it was a S5 since at the start of that thread he said "I picked up a series 5 turbo II". And yeah, Turblown said that the "trick" could yield 15 more hp. So I can kinda understand that so there is still 17 hp that may be missing, (20 being s5 and 15 for air). And that amount may be attributed to many factors. Or do you have other ideas?
 
Well the air filter trick works bigger primarys and advanced timing may help also I'm trying to find the other thread where he shows how big the port is and hey your forgot I said he used 6port plates bigger difference than a 4port turbo lol
 
Look up judge ito sierras rx7 on rx7club hes a good friend of mines. We're talking about a well respected rotary enthusiast, on top of that you never seen more than 240 all I can say is wow lol

http://m.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=927120&page=2
I rest my case and she ran 12.4

Well aware of his status a respected tuner and builder. Don't question his ability or knowledge. I even have some friends with old Ito porting templates. But it's pretty well documented the stock compressor side is well an out of breath at boost levels that high. Not to mention stretching limits on heat dissipation capabilities of the stock TMIC core at around 300WHP. Nor a fair comparison to my example of a used JDM S5 TII with stock ports. Or even Thatman's build as you state that engine is 6-port Irons, who knows maybe even N/A high compression rotors, that Ito dyno sheet looks nice and torquey.

Rated R also uses a Dynojet 224x if I'm not mistaken. So it may or may not have an eddy brake. If theirs does you can use the eddy brake to solid state tune under load, but you can't use the eddy brake to load WOT pulls. Waste of money IMO. I'd take a Dyno Dynamics or Dynapack figure over Dynojet any day. Even then dyno numbers are subjective to operator input, and conditions. The point of dyno tuning is the fine tuning for driveability. Power numbers are just numbers for dyno queens to toss around...

Our Haltech S5 TII 240WHP number was tuned by Nelson S. So you can "LULZ" all you'd like at one of the west coasts premier tuners. Considering an unknown condition stock port JDM engine and stock turbo, 240WHP is a solid number. You can also find numerous dyno pulls from people with light modded TII's or swaps in the 180-220WHP range all over RX7Club since you'd like to reference that.

GSL-SE 680cc injectors are low impedance, Thatman's car looks to be a late 87 or an 88 which does not have an injector resistor box looking at his underhood pics. That and the fact he's already got Injector Dynamics secondary injectors which are ALL high impedance. By the time you track down a pair, get them sonic cleaned and flow tested, may as well buy big secondaries and more the existing 750cc ID's to the primaries. Also leaves the fact he still has nothing to control 1000cc+ injectors with.

Well the air filter trick works bigger primarys and advanced timing may help also I'm trying to find the other thread where he shows how big the port is and hey your forgot I said he used 6port plates bigger difference than a 4port turbo lol

Can you elaborate as to how advancing ignition timing will benefit in a situation where you're running lean going into secondary staging under boost? This sounds like a recipe for disaster...

Again you gotta remember, it just barley went to 8 Psi. Brand new from Mazda the S4 was only 182 at the crank. So i plan to get a Aeromotive FPR I may be able to snatch an SAFC so at that point I can slap on a boost controller and Turblown figures around 290. So we will see soon.

IMO the S-AFC is a waste of time and money in your situation. Although I've used them in the past with great success, I'd say where you're at now you need timing control which the S-AFC line obviously does not offer. So sure you can trick your stock ECU into thinking the AFM and MAP is reading more air/pressure to up the injector duty cycle, but it does not negate the fact you need to retard timing as the boost levels go up. Plus who really knows what the timing advance is at WOT and 7,000 RPM with the Rtek 1.8 you have now. It also will not show when you've reached the injectors maximum rated cycle. Sure you can run 95% injector duty cycle, but not all day. Just food for thought as I see Turblown has their shop car Haltech E6K on the 7Club in the For Sale Section that'd work for you with some wiring changes. Or the Rtek 2.0 as by the time you get a new S-AFC NEO controller, you're at the price of a Rtek 2.0 with a Palm if you shop around.

Maybe I say you need a more stand alone style approach as I just dropped my load on a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 setup earlier today. Stand alone ECU's for everyone, just not on my tab please! :lol:
 
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MaliciousMD
Well aware of his status a respected tuner and builder. Don't question his ability or knowledge. I even have some friends with old Ito porting templates. But it's pretty well documented the stock compressor side is well an out of breath at boost levels that high. Not to mention stretching limits on heat dissipation capabilities of the stock TMIC core at around 300WHP. Nor a fair comparison to my example of a used JDM S5 TII with stock ports. Or even Thatman's build as you state that engine is 6-port Irons, who knows maybe even N/A high compression rotors, that Ito dyno sheet looks nice and torquey.

Rated R also uses a Dynojet 224x if I'm not mistaken. So it may or may not have an eddy brake. If theirs does you can use the eddy brake to solid state tune under load, but you can't use the eddy brake to load WOT pulls. Waste of money IMO. I'd take a Dyno Dynamics or Dynapack figure over Dynojet any day. Even then dyno numbers are subjective to operator input, and conditions. The point of dyno tuning is the fine tuning for driveability. Power numbers are just numbers for dyno queens to toss around...

Our Haltech S5 TII 240WHP number was tuned by Nelson S. So you can "LULZ" all you'd like at one of the west coasts premier tuners. Considering an unknown condition stock port JDM engine and stock turbo, 240WHP is a solid number. You can also find numerous dyno pulls from people with light modded TII's or swaps in the 180-220WHP range all over RX7Club since you'd like to reference that.

GSL-SE 680cc injectors are low impedance, Thatman's car looks to be a late 87 or an 88 which does not have an injector resistor box looking at his underhood pics. That and the fact he's already got Injector Dynamics secondary injectors which are ALL high impedance. By the time you track down a pair, get them sonic cleaned and flow tested, may as well buy big secondaries and more the existing 750cc ID's to the primaries. Also leaves the fact he still has nothing to control 1000cc+ injectors with.

Can you elaborate as to how advancing ignition timing will benefit in a situation where you're running lean going into secondary staging under boost? This sounds like a recipe for disaster...

IMO the S-AFC is a waste of time and money in your situation. Although I've used them in the past with great success, I'd say where you're at now you need timing control which the S-AFC line obviously does not offer. So sure you can trick your stock ECU into thinking the AFM and MAP is reading more air/pressure to up the injector duty cycle, but it does not negate the fact you need to retard timing as the boost levels go up. Plus who really knows what the timing advance is at WOT and 7,000 RPM with the Rtek 1.8 you have now. It also will not show when you've reached the injectors maximum rated cycle. Sure you can run 95% injector duty cycle, but not all day. Just food for thought as I see Turblown has their shop car Haltech E6K on the 7Club in the For Sale Section that'd work for you with some wiring changes. Or the Rtek 2.0 as by the time you get a new S-AFC NEO controller, you're at the price of a Rtek 2.0 with a Palm if you shop around.

Maybe I say you need a more stand alone style approach as I just dropped my load on a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 setup earlier today. Stand alone ECU's for everyone, just not on my tab please! :lol:
Agreed on the haltech idea but I also didn't know he had id's. But I still think he should try the air filter trick and see what gains he'd get.


However I do like the 1000cc prim 2000cc sec. Setup
 
What a fun read. 👍

Anyway, Ive made up my mind. Chatting with Turblown im going to get the Fuel pressure regulator, a manual boost controller as well as the Rtek 2.0. I was trying to stray from that since I didn't feel like getting into maps and what not but i'm sure its nothing reading about it wont fix. :)

And I just want to double check the findings. The car would start to sputter with boost; drive fine for the most part otherwise and it seemed to get worse with cold. Knowing that the injectors are like new, the Walboro 255 pump has been rewired. Any objections to it not being the Regulator?
 
Thatman
And I just want to double check the findings. The car would start to sputter with boost; drive fine for the most part otherwise and it seemed to get worse with cold. Knowing that the injectors are like new, the Walboro 255 pump has been rewired. Any objections to it not being the Regulator?

How's the fuel filter?
 
Thatman
What a fun read. 👍

Anyway, Ive made up my mind. Chatting with Turblown im going to get the Fuel pressure regulator, a manual boost controller as well as the Rtek 2.0. I was trying to stray from that since I didn't feel like getting into maps and what not but i'm sure its nothing reading about it wont fix. :)

And I just want to double check the findings. The car would start to sputter with boost; drive fine for the most part otherwise and it seemed to get worse with cold. Knowing that the injectors are like new, the Walboro 255 pump has been rewired. Any objections to it not being the Regulator?

The Walbro 255LPH will most definitely over-run a stock FPR. I also noticed your running a complete "emissions" delete, even your BAC is blocked off. The stock FPR solenoid (in the rats nest) that controls the vacuum seen by the stock FPR no longer being present I'm sure isn't helping. Most certainly condition of the fuel filter could play a role. The condition of the entire fuel system for that matter. I flushed a ton of old goopy broken down gasoline in my hard fuel lines on my RX7. As well as a ton of sediment that had worked its way into the hard lines from the gas tank.

You could just be feeling the effects of a lean "tune" when the secondaries stage. Bad grounds, weak coils... its an RX7 it could be any one thing or a combination of multiple issues, lol. When you say "seems worse with cold," do you mean when the engine is still cold? Or when theres cold weather?

I think once you get the Rtek 2.0 and start data logging, all the little issues will be more apparent, and get ironed out with less frustration. Better get handy with the Palm stylus, you'll be editing your fuel and timing maps one cell at a time, PITA!
 
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Punknoodle
Go on, join MD and I and be a member of the Haltech Platinum Sport club...

LOL! YES THIS!!!

I won't have my PS1000, flying lead harness, and sensors until Tuesday next week. Totally brain farted and didn't order the Haltech ECU mounts. Did get a piece of aluminum sheet to mount it though, hahaha! Straight backwards....
 
Yeah they are quite small, I'll be making mounts for mine to go in the factory ECU location, behind the centre of the dash.
 
Rtek is like a budget PowerFC, it'll do everything he needs and more.

Straight from the 7Club with $50.00 off any 2.0+ Rtek by using their coupon code this week only.

http://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/rtek-thanksgiving-discount-1018163/

My choice to go Haltech is based on the fact my engine harness is ready for the dumpster. Most harnesses I've seen online look to be incomplete or require a re-wrap and repair more so than my existing harness.

If all the OEM sensors and engine harness are in good working order, I don't see why an Rtek wouldn't suit the application. Some guy on the 7Club just dyno'd at over 400WHP with a 2.1 ECU. I'd assume he's running a 20B AFM though.

Also PS1000 is 4x the cost of an Rtek. Speaking of PS1000's, mines due in on the UPS truck in about 15 minutes. :)
 
Yeah, thats a good deal as I need an AFR mabob like that anyway. But lack of funds being the holiday season will put the 7 on a deep freeze.:lol: Because in MN. That and I am picking up a sweet TV somewhere...

Here is what I have been up to though(and flamve):
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Add 94,6xx and you have the actual mileage.
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Yes, thats a jimmy bar with a fork attached with some wire.
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Last good ride, with my dad quite confused.
 
So a long while in between update, but its winter, what do you expect?
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it turned out okay, likely going to re-do it in the spring.
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Fancy how a block heater works.

Also Im getting a manual subaru, its simply too long to not be able to shift....

Also 6 yr anniversary since sign up here!
 
So I passed right now on the seats.
I did get all this for $150 though:
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I am now looking thinking about an S5 conversion. Mainly the lights, but he says $300 for everything so I might do that.
 
Thats about the only update I have...
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Have to do a little bending here....
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Oh and the Subaru I bought has a blown head gasket. I plan to replace it with cars I know to be unreliable...another Rx7 or an Eclipse. :lol:
 
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