- 1,161
- United States
FM3 on the back, FM1 on the straight. Pit after lap 7.
The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars
- Thread starter The_It_Jojo
- 2,574 comments
- 380,621 views
- 667
- Austria
jrbabbitt
Premium
- 2,556
- Charleston, SC
- TCR_JimyBee
Mazda RX500 with minimal additional parts and tune but not a glitch tune.
Race time 27+
Fastest lap I think was 2min 17.
But what is so remarkable about this car is you can do the WTC600 without stopping for tyres or fuel, even at FM1!
SH Tyres do not show any wear in the 12 laps, maybe a sliver of red on lap 12..
- 417
- Western Provinces
- GamerJean2022
- JeanMeow2022
Just found out about this race but the shortcut penalties are set to strong and car damage is On. Not sure what counts as a shortcut. Does hitting a wall count as one? 'cause I suck at weak tire driving.
- 5,728
- Manila, PH
- TakuKanonji22
Used my favorite Lan Evo to do this event before heading off to work.
- 1,161
- United States
Mazda Roadster S (ND) '15 (Engine Swap)
Race Time: 25:11.786
Fastest Lap: 2:00.881
Umm... How does a little car like this handle 714hp so well? And it only weighs 2136 lbs! The PP system is definetly broken with this one. Not glitched, just incorrect on all accounts.
So this car has pretty darn good handling. I was able to hit nearly 150mph through turn 3, over 120 through turn 8 but being able to consistently hit those speeds was tough because you enter the corners at such a faster rate of speed than most other cars you are used to driving. The LT1 swap on this car makes it a rocket when you have traction. Your sense of speed is very warped when driving the car. Everything feels like normal, but then you realize you are going 20-30mph faster in to a turn than you normally do with other cars. And yet it handles the power like a champ. This same amount of power in the Nissan Silvia Q's makes the car an absolute joke to drive. Heck, I had a harder time driving a fully built Genesis 3.8 with 200 less horsepower and 450 more pounds on it. This little Miata is a beast. I'm sure it's got a sub 25 minute race time in it. I ran 1:59's in my test runs, so getting a bit more consistency on the brakes in to turn 1 and hitting your entry speeds in to turns 3, 5, 8 and 9 should lead to a lot of sub-2 minute lap times.
I ran FM3 on the backside and FM1 on the straight. This helped with keeping the rear tires from spinning up and maintaining good corner exit velocity. Pit after lap 6 for new tires and some fuel.
If you have the means, buy this car, do the engine swap and unleash hell.
The Tune:
Engine Swap, Widebody, 17" wide/wide wheels, Type B/B/A aero with low custom wing
Race Time: 25:11.786
Fastest Lap: 2:00.881
Umm... How does a little car like this handle 714hp so well? And it only weighs 2136 lbs! The PP system is definetly broken with this one. Not glitched, just incorrect on all accounts.
So this car has pretty darn good handling. I was able to hit nearly 150mph through turn 3, over 120 through turn 8 but being able to consistently hit those speeds was tough because you enter the corners at such a faster rate of speed than most other cars you are used to driving. The LT1 swap on this car makes it a rocket when you have traction. Your sense of speed is very warped when driving the car. Everything feels like normal, but then you realize you are going 20-30mph faster in to a turn than you normally do with other cars. And yet it handles the power like a champ. This same amount of power in the Nissan Silvia Q's makes the car an absolute joke to drive. Heck, I had a harder time driving a fully built Genesis 3.8 with 200 less horsepower and 450 more pounds on it. This little Miata is a beast. I'm sure it's got a sub 25 minute race time in it. I ran 1:59's in my test runs, so getting a bit more consistency on the brakes in to turn 1 and hitting your entry speeds in to turns 3, 5, 8 and 9 should lead to a lot of sub-2 minute lap times.
I ran FM3 on the backside and FM1 on the straight. This helped with keeping the rear tires from spinning up and maintaining good corner exit velocity. Pit after lap 6 for new tires and some fuel.
If you have the means, buy this car, do the engine swap and unleash hell.
The Tune:
Engine Swap, Widebody, 17" wide/wide wheels, Type B/B/A aero with low custom wing
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- 1,161
- United States
Audi TTS Coupe '14 (engine swap)
Race Time: 26:49.732
Fastest Lap: 2:08.465
Bleh... Such a boring car to drive. Tons of understeer. I had the wheel flipped 180 degrees through most of the turns just trying to get this tubby bitch to rotate. Nothing remarkable to speak of. Brakes were okay, power and straight line speed was fine, speed through the turns was fine. It was just... bleh.
If you like being bored and fighting understeer, here's the tune:
Engine swap, widebody, 19" wide/wide wheels, Aero A/A, Medium wing:
Race Time: 26:49.732
Fastest Lap: 2:08.465
Bleh... Such a boring car to drive. Tons of understeer. I had the wheel flipped 180 degrees through most of the turns just trying to get this tubby bitch to rotate. Nothing remarkable to speak of. Brakes were okay, power and straight line speed was fine, speed through the turns was fine. It was just... bleh.
If you like being bored and fighting understeer, here's the tune:
Engine swap, widebody, 19" wide/wide wheels, Aero A/A, Medium wing:
- 5,728
- Manila, PH
- TakuKanonji22
My 22B STi fares better than Hizal's, that's for sure!
Tune:
Side note: I short shift at 8.5k rpm since that's pretty much the peak of the engine's power.
Tune:
Side note: I short shift at 8.5k rpm since that's pretty much the peak of the engine's power.
- 1,161
- United States
Pagani Zonda R '09
Race Time: 27:00.743
Fastest Lap: 2:12.536
Great car. Only fault is it's top speed. It can barely hit 172 if you are drafting hard on the AI. Running solo it struggles to hit the mid 160's. The brakes are phenomenal and the high speed cornering is great. I ran this as a no stop race. The tires easily lasted but I had to do some fuel map changes and some short shifting to get the full 12 laps out of the one tank of fuel. If you focus on keeping your corner speed up it doesn't really matter if you are on FM1 or FM4. Your overall lap time is just about the same.
Heres the tune: Wide/wide wheels
Race Time: 27:00.743
Fastest Lap: 2:12.536
Great car. Only fault is it's top speed. It can barely hit 172 if you are drafting hard on the AI. Running solo it struggles to hit the mid 160's. The brakes are phenomenal and the high speed cornering is great. I ran this as a no stop race. The tires easily lasted but I had to do some fuel map changes and some short shifting to get the full 12 laps out of the one tank of fuel. If you focus on keeping your corner speed up it doesn't really matter if you are on FM1 or FM4. Your overall lap time is just about the same.
Heres the tune: Wide/wide wheels
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- 1,161
- United States
Wicked Fabrication GT 51
Race Time: 27:02.932
Fastest Lap: 2:09.910
Ehh, it's okay. A bit better than that Audi I drove recently but lots of understeer due to the lack of front aero. The car feels pretty slow but it actually has decent acceleration and when it is turning it holds a line pretty well, so keep your corner speed up and get all the turns to just flow one into the next and you can string together a pretty good lap time. Pit after lap 7 for fuel and tires.
The Tune:
Wide/Wide wheels, custom mid wing
Race Time: 27:02.932
Fastest Lap: 2:09.910
Ehh, it's okay. A bit better than that Audi I drove recently but lots of understeer due to the lack of front aero. The car feels pretty slow but it actually has decent acceleration and when it is turning it holds a line pretty well, so keep your corner speed up and get all the turns to just flow one into the next and you can string together a pretty good lap time. Pit after lap 7 for fuel and tires.
The Tune:
Wide/Wide wheels, custom mid wing
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- 3
- United States
- 122
- Hong Kong
Another revisit run for one of my favorite fun runs.
non stop run with RH and FM1 all time.
Last time it was done when 1st AI running around 27"50 and only able to win with insane blocking.
With S Parts available in tuning shop it can run with more power.(191 to 226 hp)
But she is still one of the least powerful winner I tried.
After all the physics change it felt more controllable when rear tires drop below 50% (still need to drive with caution)
non stop run with RH and FM1 all time.
Last time it was done when 1st AI running around 27"50 and only able to win with insane blocking.
With S Parts available in tuning shop it can run with more power.(191 to 226 hp)
But she is still one of the least powerful winner I tried.
After all the physics change it felt more controllable when rear tires drop below 50% (still need to drive with caution)
- 1,161
- United States
Okay, Im going to pitch another challenge to the group for this race. This will probably be a quick challenge, but the challenge is to find the cheapest car and modificatiin combination to win the race. We are looking for the best bang for your buck combination to win the Tokyo 600. You dont have to go out and buy the cars if you have won them on a roulette spin or through a menu book, but you will be required to use their fair market value in your price calculation. So no saying, "well, I got the car for free completing menu book 12, so...." Nope. Include the price of the car. Feel free to use a used price if the car is sold in the used dealership.
I would like to say you need to win the race on hard difficulty, but not everyone races on hard, so I'll say you need to win the race in less than 27 minutes and 25 seconds. That would 95% of the time beat Kokubun on hard difficulty.
I will start this off by saying I've won the race with a bone stock Corvette C8. The car is 85,000 credits. So you need to go out and beat that number. Pick any car you want and mod it however you want, but if you spend more than 85k credits, you need to pull some of those mods off and get lower than me.
www.gtplanet.net
I would like to say you need to win the race on hard difficulty, but not everyone races on hard, so I'll say you need to win the race in less than 27 minutes and 25 seconds. That would 95% of the time beat Kokubun on hard difficulty.
I will start this off by saying I've won the race with a bone stock Corvette C8. The car is 85,000 credits. So you need to go out and beat that number. Pick any car you want and mod it however you want, but if you spend more than 85k credits, you need to pull some of those mods off and get lower than me.
The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars
Mia gives "The Buster" a run for his money. Of course she learned from Hector that these Hondas need Spoon engines with T66 turbos to compete, so she got her brother and the boys to make a special order from Japan. Honda Integra Type R (DC2) '98 (Engine swapped) Race Time: 26:54.573 Fastest...
www.gtplanet.net
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- 1,161
- United States
Mazda RX-8 Sprint R '12 - 63,400 credits
Race Time: 27:23.028
Fastest Lap: 2:12.535
I dont really know how to describe this car. With the tuning I used it's a bit dicey but at the same time it's one of the best cars I've ever driven on this track. No, it's not fast. No, it's not going to be a car that will be easy to drive for most new or casual players. This car is a great example of how to learn car control. Honestly, this car with these tuning settings should have been used in the licensing tests to teach you how to manage weight transfer, trail braking and keeping weight over the drive wheels through the corner. This car with these settings does not like trail braking, but it really likes you being about 10-20% throttle at the start of turns and through the fast bends. Too much braking and the back end gets light and tries to come around on you. You can use that to your advantage on turns 1 and 2, but careful going in to the chicane and turn 8. Too much throttle on the exit and the back will try to come around on you, but it's fairly manageable.
It's a real "drivers car" is maybe the best way to describe it. When everything is clicking the car feels like it glides through the turns as you are right on the edge of traction.
This car and tune only cost 63,400 credits, so it's a really cheap way of getting in to the grind races and winning some big payouts. Unfortunately, I did not get the CRB on this run. I tapped a car in turn 1 of the first lap but managed to stay away from the AI the rest of the way. I'm pretty sure you could win with the CRB and this setup, though.
EDIT: Forgot the sport soft tires in the tune.
The tune:
RX-8 - 32,500 credits
Stock wheels with wide offset - free
Type B front Aero - 2000 credits
Custom Low wing - 1500 credits
Sports Air Filter - 700 credits
Sports Brake pads - 400 credits
Street suspension - 2500 credits
Weight Reduction 1 - 3500 credits
Sport Soft tires - 3800 credits
Medium Turbo - 12000 credits
Fully customizable computer - 4500 credits
Race Time: 27:23.028
Fastest Lap: 2:12.535
I dont really know how to describe this car. With the tuning I used it's a bit dicey but at the same time it's one of the best cars I've ever driven on this track. No, it's not fast. No, it's not going to be a car that will be easy to drive for most new or casual players. This car is a great example of how to learn car control. Honestly, this car with these tuning settings should have been used in the licensing tests to teach you how to manage weight transfer, trail braking and keeping weight over the drive wheels through the corner. This car with these settings does not like trail braking, but it really likes you being about 10-20% throttle at the start of turns and through the fast bends. Too much braking and the back end gets light and tries to come around on you. You can use that to your advantage on turns 1 and 2, but careful going in to the chicane and turn 8. Too much throttle on the exit and the back will try to come around on you, but it's fairly manageable.
It's a real "drivers car" is maybe the best way to describe it. When everything is clicking the car feels like it glides through the turns as you are right on the edge of traction.
This car and tune only cost 63,400 credits, so it's a really cheap way of getting in to the grind races and winning some big payouts. Unfortunately, I did not get the CRB on this run. I tapped a car in turn 1 of the first lap but managed to stay away from the AI the rest of the way. I'm pretty sure you could win with the CRB and this setup, though.
EDIT: Forgot the sport soft tires in the tune.
The tune:
RX-8 - 32,500 credits
Stock wheels with wide offset - free
Type B front Aero - 2000 credits
Custom Low wing - 1500 credits
Sports Air Filter - 700 credits
Sports Brake pads - 400 credits
Street suspension - 2500 credits
Weight Reduction 1 - 3500 credits
Sport Soft tires - 3800 credits
Medium Turbo - 12000 credits
Fully customizable computer - 4500 credits
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- 229
- New York City
- challah_rajni
Ferrari F40: Project 25 Minutes
After 10+ runs, the deed is done...
The Ferrari F40 can do a no-stop,
AND
It can break the 26 minute total time barrier:
BEST TIME: 25:58.467
BEST LAP: 2:07.463
Strategy:
For ultra max obsessive time trial push mode:
DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
I enjoyed the F40 in GT5: Prologue, but felt it was slow and un-competitive. Perhaps it was the old suspension, lack of grip and the turbo lag. My expectations were not high going into this race.
But truthfully, I hadn't driven the F40 since the early days of GT7. I did a run or two with it for the nearly-stock challenges for this event that @BWM is an expert at. The F40 handled well enough and gave me a giggle, but after the racing tire "adjustments," I forgot about the car.
I stayed with the stock suspension for the majority of my runs. The F40's handling is racecar-ish: nearly no body-roll, direct and sharp responses to steering inputs, absolutely planted in the high speed corners. The handling balance is neutral~understeer. Good initial front-end bite, but the longer I kept off the throttle in mid and low-speed corners, the less the car wanted to turn.
The handling is reminiscent of the Jaguar XJ220 with stock suspension.
I did some 'time trial shifting' - drop to a lower gear for engine braking and more turn-in, quickly change back up to the gear you want to finish the corner with - hunting for tenths. But it's not necessary. If you are good with braking and trail braking (I am not), the F40 is a neutral breeze.
The F40 will tuck it's nose in under power in the high speed corners, but that quickly turns to slight push and understeer. Balancing the car with a heavy throttle foot is the sort of unga-bunga driving style that I live for.
Finally, despite the power party being over after 7500 RPM, the F40 sounds amazing. I kept driving for the sound.
TUNING AND PP SYSTEM OBSERVATIONS
I ran with a GT Auto Front Wing and Rear Wing and the usual near minimum front downforce and near max rear downforce. The PP system seems a bit strict with this car - you can do all the usual tricks to sneak on more power, but the tricks don't work as well as other cars here. You can drop the weight quite a bit, but you'll pay dearly in power. I settled on the stock suspension and Sports Medium Tires. The stock suspension was good enough, and I could put the extra PP toward power and weight. My best speed was around 190~193mph down the main straight, drafting another car. Alone, my F40 tops out around 188~190mph.
If you try to put ballast all the way in the front of the car, the PP system goes nuts and jumps up by 10~15PP.
My tuning was in aero balance, power(restricting), what turbo to use and messing with the LSD to get more aggressive turn-in.
My fastest run came from the High RPM Turbo, but I believe the Low-RPM Turbo has more potential. It's not much slower on the main straight, is slightly more fuel efficient, and the extra acceleration out of corners is noticeable.
TIRE WEAR (!!!)
The combo of wide wheels (made even wider by GT Auto) and ultra light weight make this car a tire wear god. The F40 could probably shrug off 30 laps on one set of Sports Mediums. Heaven knows what unholy feats are possible with a set of Sports Hards.
THE "TUNE"
GT Auto Custom Parts:
I traded power for light weight. Hence the 0 ballast and 22 placement. I might try the 500k credit ultimate weight reduction to see if that makes the car slightly faster.
I believe I can find a tenth or more by making 4th gear shorter - I spend a lot of time in the high speed sections using that gear. Not sure though - my gear box tuning is almost as crude as my braking technique.
WAIT, WHY ARE YOU USING THE SEMI-RACING SILENCER?!
Because it makes the F40 sound glorious
P.S.
I'll go in a corner and cry if the Enzo swapped V12 version of this has better fuel economy and is effortlessly faster.
After 10+ runs, the deed is done...
- A display of obsession that threatened to bounce me off the credit limit,
- A grind effort that would make @Chikane_GTR raise an eyebrow,
- A tuning journey that was more about me tuning my driving than changing the car,
The Ferrari F40 can do a no-stop,
AND
It can break the 26 minute total time barrier:
BEST TIME: 25:58.467
BEST LAP: 2:07.463
Strategy:
- Sports Medium Tires (yes, really...)
- Upshift at ~7500 RPM or slightly below
- FM1 on the main straight + FM4 for everywhere else, depending on the wind direction
- Around lap 8~10 you can use FM1 for the main straight + FM3 for the corners
- If you have 1.3 laps of fuel when you start lap 12, leave it in FM1 and unleash the unga bunga
For ultra max obsessive time trial push mode:
- FM1 for main straight + FM4 for most corners, then FM3 down the straight leading to the final hairpin
- You can do that for 3~5 laps before having to go back to FM1 + FM4
- IMO, best to do this when the track dries out to get fastest laps
- If you are lucky, on lap 12, you can go FM1 the whole way - just in time to deal with lapped traffic!
DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
I enjoyed the F40 in GT5: Prologue, but felt it was slow and un-competitive. Perhaps it was the old suspension, lack of grip and the turbo lag. My expectations were not high going into this race.
But truthfully, I hadn't driven the F40 since the early days of GT7. I did a run or two with it for the nearly-stock challenges for this event that @BWM is an expert at. The F40 handled well enough and gave me a giggle, but after the racing tire "adjustments," I forgot about the car.
I stayed with the stock suspension for the majority of my runs. The F40's handling is racecar-ish: nearly no body-roll, direct and sharp responses to steering inputs, absolutely planted in the high speed corners. The handling balance is neutral~understeer. Good initial front-end bite, but the longer I kept off the throttle in mid and low-speed corners, the less the car wanted to turn.
The handling is reminiscent of the Jaguar XJ220 with stock suspension.
I did some 'time trial shifting' - drop to a lower gear for engine braking and more turn-in, quickly change back up to the gear you want to finish the corner with - hunting for tenths. But it's not necessary. If you are good with braking and trail braking (I am not), the F40 is a neutral breeze.
The F40 will tuck it's nose in under power in the high speed corners, but that quickly turns to slight push and understeer. Balancing the car with a heavy throttle foot is the sort of unga-bunga driving style that I live for.
Finally, despite the power party being over after 7500 RPM, the F40 sounds amazing. I kept driving for the sound.
TUNING AND PP SYSTEM OBSERVATIONS
I ran with a GT Auto Front Wing and Rear Wing and the usual near minimum front downforce and near max rear downforce. The PP system seems a bit strict with this car - you can do all the usual tricks to sneak on more power, but the tricks don't work as well as other cars here. You can drop the weight quite a bit, but you'll pay dearly in power. I settled on the stock suspension and Sports Medium Tires. The stock suspension was good enough, and I could put the extra PP toward power and weight. My best speed was around 190~193mph down the main straight, drafting another car. Alone, my F40 tops out around 188~190mph.
If you try to put ballast all the way in the front of the car, the PP system goes nuts and jumps up by 10~15PP.
My tuning was in aero balance, power(restricting), what turbo to use and messing with the LSD to get more aggressive turn-in.
My fastest run came from the High RPM Turbo, but I believe the Low-RPM Turbo has more potential. It's not much slower on the main straight, is slightly more fuel efficient, and the extra acceleration out of corners is noticeable.
TIRE WEAR (!!!)
The combo of wide wheels (made even wider by GT Auto) and ultra light weight make this car a tire wear god. The F40 could probably shrug off 30 laps on one set of Sports Mediums. Heaven knows what unholy feats are possible with a set of Sports Hards.
THE "TUNE"
GT Auto Custom Parts:
- GT Auto Front Wing Type A + Custom Rear Wing Type A
- NO DIFFUSER (rear aero) - It costs too much PP!!
- Wide Wheels - 17 inch, Wide Rims, Standard Offset
I traded power for light weight. Hence the 0 ballast and 22 placement. I might try the 500k credit ultimate weight reduction to see if that makes the car slightly faster.
I believe I can find a tenth or more by making 4th gear shorter - I spend a lot of time in the high speed sections using that gear. Not sure though - my gear box tuning is almost as crude as my braking technique.
WAIT, WHY ARE YOU USING THE SEMI-RACING SILENCER?!
Because it makes the F40 sound glorious
P.S.
I'll go in a corner and cry if the Enzo swapped V12 version of this has better fuel economy and is effortlessly faster.
- 229
- New York City
- challah_rajni
@Tommy_D 's GT7 REASONABLY PRICED CAR CHALLENGE (accepted)
Corvette C7 14' - Possibly the cheapest way to get to 200mph (320kph)
I remember the C7 being monstrously quick in the early days of GT7. I'd assumed it was because of exploit tunes. Today I learned that the base car is quite... potent.
Cost of Car and Parts
GT Auto Wide Wheels: Wide Rims + Wide Offset: Free
Weight Reduction Stage 1: 3800
Cost of Car: 51,000
Total Cost: 54,800
RESULTS
Normal Difficulty
Best Time: 26:55.461
Best Lap: 2:09.718
DRIVING EXPERIENCE
Pros
Cons
FINAL IMPRESSIONS
If you're coming from racecars and heavily tuned roadcars, this car will initially feel like a giant mess. But once you calm down and slow your inputs to flow with the speed of the suspension, the driving experience becomes Zen-like, and you become unstoppable. If you know it's coming, the rear end stepping out on throttle can be manipulated to give you better turn-in. Someone better at taming powerful FRs than me should be able to get the C7 Corvette into the 2:08s. It's weird calling a Corvette a sleeper, but that's what this is.
THOUGHTS ON THE CHALLENGE
I'm all for it! There's now a bunch of cars that I want to try out, and there's a bunch of cars I've already driven that might feel new and fresh. Also, I'm looking forward to feeling all the handling quirks of the cars. Since upgraded suspensions are likely too expensive, there's going to be a lot of getting to know the car.
I'd keep my eye on the Genesis G70 and the Chevy Camaro, maybe the Meta Mazda Atenza as well. Someone is going to find a stock build that works with Racing Tires and have the patience to drive it. I suspect @BWM will be quite strong here.
It'll be interesting to see if FF cars can be competitive in this challenge.
Corvette C7 14' - Possibly the cheapest way to get to 200mph (320kph)
I remember the C7 being monstrously quick in the early days of GT7. I'd assumed it was because of exploit tunes. Today I learned that the base car is quite... potent.
Cost of Car and Parts
GT Auto Wide Wheels: Wide Rims + Wide Offset: Free
Weight Reduction Stage 1: 3800
Cost of Car: 51,000
Total Cost: 54,800
RESULTS
Normal Difficulty
Best Time: 26:55.461
Best Lap: 2:09.718
DRIVING EXPERIENCE
Pros
- Good turn-in and rotation + high grip levels in both low and high speed corners
- Strong engine with power across the rev range
- Disturbingly fuel efficient - can run 9 full laps on FM1 - no-stop may be possible
- 200mph in 5th gear... with no draft!!
- Sounds like the God of Thunder in low revs
Cons
- Mediocre Brakes
- Sluggish steering response / mushy suspension
- Rear end steps out at all speeds if you are careless with the throttle
FINAL IMPRESSIONS
If you're coming from racecars and heavily tuned roadcars, this car will initially feel like a giant mess. But once you calm down and slow your inputs to flow with the speed of the suspension, the driving experience becomes Zen-like, and you become unstoppable. If you know it's coming, the rear end stepping out on throttle can be manipulated to give you better turn-in. Someone better at taming powerful FRs than me should be able to get the C7 Corvette into the 2:08s. It's weird calling a Corvette a sleeper, but that's what this is.
THOUGHTS ON THE CHALLENGE
I'm all for it! There's now a bunch of cars that I want to try out, and there's a bunch of cars I've already driven that might feel new and fresh. Also, I'm looking forward to feeling all the handling quirks of the cars. Since upgraded suspensions are likely too expensive, there's going to be a lot of getting to know the car.
I'd keep my eye on the Genesis G70 and the Chevy Camaro, maybe the Meta Mazda Atenza as well. Someone is going to find a stock build that works with Racing Tires and have the patience to drive it. I suspect @BWM will be quite strong here.
It'll be interesting to see if FF cars can be competitive in this challenge.
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Done and done. Good stuff, got me to go back to Tokyo after a few weeks of more pedestrian things to do in GT7 👍Okay, Im going to pitch another challenge to the group for this race. This will probably be a quick challenge, but the challenge is to find the cheapest car and modificatiin combination to win the race. We are looking for the best bang for your buck combination to win the Tokyo 600. You dont have to go out and buy the cars if you have won them on a roulette spin or through a menu book, but you will be required to use their fair market value in your price calculation. So no saying, "well, I got the car for free completing menu book 12, so...." Nope. Include the price of the car. Feel free to use a used price if the car is sold in the used dealership.
I would like to say you need to win the race on hard difficulty, but not everyone races on hard, so I'll say you need to win the race in less than 27 minutes and 25 seconds. That would 95% of the time beat Kokubun on hard difficulty.
I will start this off by saying I've won the race with a bone stock Corvette C8. The car is 85,000 credits. So you need to go out and beat that number. Pick any car you want and mod it however you want, but if you spend more than 85k credits, you need to pull some of those mods off and get lower than me.
The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars
Mia gives "The Buster" a run for his money. Of course she learned from Hector that these Hondas need Spoon engines with T66 turbos to compete, so she got her brother and the boys to make a special order from Japan. Honda Integra Type R (DC2) '98 (Engine swapped) Race Time: 26:54.573 Fastest...
Camaro SS '16 brand new for 35000 Cr (can be obtained for free, too)
Tuning:
Weight reduction 1 comes in at 3500 Cr
Sports mediums cost 2800 Cr
Overall cost: 41300 Cr
Very easy to drive, stable and just the tiniest hint of snappiness if you really throw it around and thrash the gas. Doesn't need to be pushed to the limit for a win. I stopped on lap 8 for tyres and fuel, coming out good few seconds in front of Kokubun. From there cruising to the end without a problem. Fastest lap was 2.12:5 with opt. being 2.11:7. With some super aggressive driving this might be doable without the weight reduction, but realistically, if the goal is to get grinding for CRB as cheaply as possible, no-one in their right mind would not pay that 3500 Cr for not having to lean on opponents or block like a maniac.
Edit: So since it's Sunday and nothing better to do, didn't want to leave the door open for someone else. Challenge done with stock Camaro SS with just the sports medium tyres for tune (35000 + 2800 = 37800 cr total). As expected, takes some a-holery to achieve. Catched up to Kokubun pretty early on, so made sure he's not getting a clean run. Nothing too serious, just a bit of closing the door business. After pitting, he catched me on lap 9 and from there, full on blocking on main straight especially in the tunnel. Luckily Amemiya doesn't have the absolute top end speed so could get some gap before braking to 1st corner. Fuel was getting very crucial on the last lap, so had to use a higher gear here and there. Just made it to the line before running out.
But here's the thing: this was on hard difficulty, but doesn't fulfill the time limit of 27.25. So if it's not EITHER on hard difficulty OR sub 27.25, then I failed
Not saying it can't be done, but takes an absolute world class driver to get it.
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- 1,161
- United States
I wondered about the Camaro. I was going to try it but my Camaro already has some engine mods done that I can't remove. I have a bone stock Mustang that probably performs similarly.Done and done. Good stuff, got me to go back to Tokyo after a few weeks of more pedestrian things to do in GT7 👍
Camaro SS '16 brand new for 35000 Cr (can be obtained for free, too)
Tuning:
Weight reduction 1 comes in at 3500 Cr
Sports mediums cost 2800 Cr
Overall cost: 41300 Cr
Very easy to drive, stable and just the tiniest hint of snappiness if you really throw it around and thrash the gas. Doesn't need to be pushed to the limit for a win. I stopped on lap 8 for tyres and fuel, coming out good few seconds in front of Kokubun. From there cruising to the end without a problem. Fastest lap was 2.12:5 with opt. being 2.11:7. With some super aggressive driving this might be doable without the weight reduction, but realistically, if the goal is to get grinding for CRB as cheaply as possible, no-one in their right mind would not pay that 3500 Cr for not having to lean on opponents or block like a maniac.
View attachment 1278086
View attachment 1278087
View attachment 1278088
Edit: So since it's Sunday and nothing better to do, didn't want to leave the door open for someone else. Challenge done with stock Camaro SS with just the sports medium tyres for tune (35000 + 2800 = 37800 cr total). As expected, takes some a-holery to achieve. Catched up to Kokubun pretty early on, so made sure he's not getting a clean run. Nothing too serious, just a bit of closing the door business. After pitting, he catched me on lap 9 and from there, full on blocking on main straight especially in the tunnel. Luckily Amemiya doesn't have the absolute top end speed so could get some gap before braking to 1st corner. Fuel was getting very crucial on the last lap, so had to use a higher gear here and there. Just made it to the line before running out.
But here's the thing: this was on hard difficulty, but doesn't fulfill the time limit of 27.25. So if it's not EITHER on hard difficulty OR sub 27.25, then I failed
View attachment 1278103
But damn, sub 40k. Honestly, we really are breaking the game. 525pp can win this race. A car that costs less than 40k can win.
Edit: Since you did run the race on hard difficulty, I would say this counts as winning the challenge, but how repeatable would this really be? It sounds like you had to do some crazy blocking and smashing to get the AI to run that slow. I would think the WR1 version of this tune would be a much more reliable win than relying on smashing your opponents.
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Absolutely would recommend the weight reduction. It takes away so much weight of this whale. With WR1 it's actually enjoyable, stock it's more like tank warfare. I did get the stock weight win on 2nd try, so it's not super difficult, but I can't see myself ever getting CRB like that
If someone is interested, the replay of the tank run is public and can be found with #tokyoforcheap.
Edit: Also, just realized the Camaro WR1+SM tune costs exactly 5% of one CRB run prize. It was meant to be.
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- 229
- New York City
- challah_rajni
Did you find the meta car that quickly?Done and done. Good stuff, got me to go back to Tokyo after a few weeks of more pedestrian things to do in GT7 👍
Camaro SS '16 brand new for 35000 Cr (can be obtained for free, too)
Tuning:
Weight reduction 1 comes in at 3500 Cr
Sports mediums cost 2800 Cr
Overall cost: 41300 Cr
Very easy to drive, stable and just the tiniest hint of snappiness if you really throw it around and thrash the gas. Doesn't need to be pushed to the limit for a win. I stopped on lap 8 for tyres and fuel, coming out good few seconds in front of Kokubun. From there cruising to the end without a problem. Fastest lap was 2.12:5 with opt. being 2.11:7. With some super aggressive driving this might be doable without the weight reduction, but realistically, if the goal is to get grinding for CRB as cheaply as possible, no-one in their right mind would not pay that 3500 Cr for not having to lean on opponents or block like a maniac.
View attachment 1278086
View attachment 1278087
View attachment 1278088
Edit: So since it's Sunday and nothing better to do, didn't want to leave the door open for someone else. Challenge done with stock Camaro SS with just the sports medium tyres for tune (35000 + 2800 = 37800 cr total). As expected, takes some a-holery to achieve. Catched up to Kokubun pretty early on, so made sure he's not getting a clean run. Nothing too serious, just a bit of closing the door business. After pitting, he catched me on lap 9 and from there, full on blocking on main straight especially in the tunnel. Luckily Amemiya doesn't have the absolute top end speed so could get some gap before braking to 1st corner. Fuel was getting very crucial on the last lap, so had to use a higher gear here and there. Just made it to the line before running out.
But here's the thing: this was on hard difficulty, but doesn't fulfill the time limit of 27.25. So if it's not EITHER on hard difficulty OR sub 27.25, then I failed
View attachment 1278103
27:40 in your 37800 Camaro on my first run. The tire wear gave me anxiety
With more attempts, I may be able to match your time, but 27:25 feels out of reach for me at the moment. That'll need a ton of work on my part (or alien upgrades).
- 1,161
- United States
The Camaro was one of the first cars I thought of then I drove it with all my none permanent mods and quickly realized this thing is out of control once you hit turn 3. Maybe I'll buy a stock one and try it again. I wonder if stock tires with some aero would help control it through the turns. Probably still need to do the weight reduction, but if you save 3800 not buying tires and can do aero for cheaper you may have a slightly better car. Also, don't forget to do the wide offset on stock wheels. It's a free upgrade that made a really big difference on my RX-8 build.Did you find the meta car that quickly?
27:40 in your 37800 Camaro on my first run. The tire wear gave me anxiety
With more attempts, I may be able to match your time, but 27:25 feels out of reach for me at the moment. That'll need a ton of work on my part (or alien upgrades).
- 229
- New York City
- challah_rajni
The Camaro's brakes were much better than I was expecting. Great package overall. From turn 3 onwards, I noticed a lot of eagerness on initial turn-in / front-end bite. Lots of opportunity to exploit trail braking, but too much of it = death. Physics also spoiled my fun when the car suddenly remembered how heavy it was and understeered mid corner. I can't tell you how many times I thought I was fine going through turn 4 balancing the throttle only to have both the Camero and the Vette push off into the no-grip wet spot.
- 1,161
- United States
- 1,161
- United States
Added the sports computer for 1600 credits and ran a 27:29.389, so that's a HUGE improvement over my last run with just the medium tires. Nearly 20 seconds for 1600 credits. Granted, I drove a little better than I did last time, but that extra 23 hp makes a big difference. I had a lot of 2:13 and 2:14 laps with my fastest being a 2:12.500. I was 3.5 seconds behind Kokubun in the end. Nearly caught up to him in the hairpin on the last lap. He is just too fast coming out of that turn.
If I can nail my entry in to turn 3 so I'm hitting the upper 130's from lap 2 onward and nail my corner entry in to turn 9, I really think this setup can get below 27:25. I just need 4.5 seconds on the whole race. Thats just a few tenths here and there from every lap. That would be a true sub-40k credit winner.
I'm nowhere near one if the best drivers in this thread, so I would imagine any of you A or A+ rated drivers could easily win this with sports mediums and a sports computer. I'm just a lowly B rated driver who struggles to get silver medals in the weekly time trials, so I think there's a lot more to go with this setup.
EDIT: Ran a 27:29.900 on sport hard tires (stock), sports computer (1600 credits), wide offset stock wheels (free) and Type A rear diffuser (free!!!!). Fastest lap was a 2:12.65 but lost to Kokubun by 7 seconds this time. I can't believe the rear diffuser comes free with this car. It is so OP that I could see the aliens winning this race without purchasing a single performance part. I'm giving this another run. I got turn 3 nailed pretty well, but I screwed up the chicane entry too many times and had other little screw ups here and there.
If I can nail my entry in to turn 3 so I'm hitting the upper 130's from lap 2 onward and nail my corner entry in to turn 9, I really think this setup can get below 27:25. I just need 4.5 seconds on the whole race. Thats just a few tenths here and there from every lap. That would be a true sub-40k credit winner.
I'm nowhere near one if the best drivers in this thread, so I would imagine any of you A or A+ rated drivers could easily win this with sports mediums and a sports computer. I'm just a lowly B rated driver who struggles to get silver medals in the weekly time trials, so I think there's a lot more to go with this setup.
EDIT: Ran a 27:29.900 on sport hard tires (stock), sports computer (1600 credits), wide offset stock wheels (free) and Type A rear diffuser (free!!!!). Fastest lap was a 2:12.65 but lost to Kokubun by 7 seconds this time. I can't believe the rear diffuser comes free with this car. It is so OP that I could see the aliens winning this race without purchasing a single performance part. I'm giving this another run. I got turn 3 nailed pretty well, but I screwed up the chicane entry too many times and had other little screw ups here and there.
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- 229
- New York City
- challah_rajni
I was getting frustrated with the Sports Medium Camaro. My driving wears the tires out too quickly, making it too tricky for me to hunt for tenths. Also, soooo much blocking
I'm leaning toward more power / aero with the stock Sports Hards.The Rear Diffuser from GT Auto is viable at 2000 credits. Note that it adds both front and rear downforce, and supposedly reduces drag. I added the sports air filter for a total of 2700 credits. It got me into the 27:25s.
I'll play with downforce settings to see if I can find a couple more tenths per lap. I find it hilarious that the Camaro is merely one weight reduction away from curb stomping this race.
At this point, the CRB doesn't even matter, even if we must buy a new car for each attempt
- 1,161
- United States
The rear diffuser is free from GT auto. I just bought a 3rd Camaro to see if it was something I accidentally bought, but nope. It's free.I was getting frustrated with the Sports Medium Camaro. My driving wears the tires out too quickly, making it too tricky for me to hunt for tenths. Also, soooo much blocking
The Rear Diffuser from GT Auto is viable at 2000 credits. Note that it adds both front and rear downforce, and supposedly reduces drag. I added the sports air filter for a total of 2700 credits. It got me into the 27:25s.
I'll play with downforce settings to see if I can find a couple more tenths per lap. I find it hilarious that the Camaro is merely one weight reduction away from curb stomping this race.
At this point, the CRB doesn't even matter, even if we must buy a new car for each attempt
