Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%
  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%

  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
Can anyone post a link to where to buy t500rs pedals separately, please.

One other thing, when I get my t300rs do I have to download something to update t300rs? I only play console. Sorry to much post to look through, if anyone can reply. Thanks in advance!

Edit: I'm noob this will be my first thrustmaster product, not sure how to update firmware.

Buying t500rs pedals only is very difficult, so I bought t500rs full set. :( You can also get bigger rim for t300 base if you buy t500rs set. I bought it from Amazon. Sometimes, third party seller list it cheaply(350~400 usd).

I am also using wheels for only console. I did firmware upgrading. I think firmware upgrade is better way to use your wheel correctly. You can use it without upgrading, but fan optimizing, game compatiabililty, Power management, and error fixing is maintained by firmware update.
 
Taking advantage of a deal i finally bought the wheel, my t300gte arrived this morning.

Well, it seems to fully work.

I have to say that i got very scared because once mounted i tried it immediatly with driveclub, i made a couple of laps to test the wheel and all of a sudden it was totally unresposive, buttons were not working and the steer was blocked, impossible to move. I had to shut down it.

Totally desperate i pluged it into the pc and i updated the firmware to version 24. Then on control panel i tested pedals and steering. Steering centered at 50% and was fully responsive. I could make changes in the order of 0,1%. Pedals had both no deadzone and fully progressive. Also force feedback was working.

So i put driveclub in again and played much more, like 20 laps and now is working.No problems.
Force feedback ihowever the game is really strange compared to gran turismo but i think that is the game, it's a bit arcade. Options works (change force feedback intensity, vibration etc) and also the buttons do. I tested the force feedback on the control panel and all effects are working. Can't really judge if they are working as supposed to do or not cause i have nothing else to play in order to test the wheel Surely driveclub is not that optimized for the wheel in terms of force feedback
 
I have been looking for T500 pedal for 4 months and guess what? I bought it this morning! :D

Last night I caught seller posted on fb group to selling racing seat, mount tv, Thrustmaster TX wheel with T500 RS pedal.
I tried to make him sell separate for T500RS since TX already come with 2 pedal so he prefer come with T500 RS.....I leave for it till he change his mind.
Next day in the morning he comment said he update the post and I saw spilt post that T500 RS alone to sell and I comment fast if it's available for post. He's happy to post so I paid!

I feel great that I bought T500 RS since been looking for 4 months and waiting for CPX long time and now feel better!
Can't wait to arrive later next week :D

May I ask the question if I use CPX with T500 pedal can mod the brake? Like dead set whatever it is I saw someone post.
Thanks!
 
CPX adapter has no effect on any brake mods but why do you need it? The CPX adapter is only if you want to use Fanatec pedals with a Thrustmaster wheel.
 
One more question.
I saw old post and don't want to bump.
When I have T500 RS pedal and there have mode like switch pedal to F1 mode and GT mode for T300 RS or just only T500 RS mode button? Thanks
 
One more question.
I saw old post and don't want to bump.
When I have T500 RS pedal and there have mode like switch pedal to F1 mode and GT mode for T300 RS or just only T500 RS mode button? Thanks
The T500, T300 and TX all have a mode button to switch pedal orientation.
 
Got my T300RS a couple of days ago as an upgrade from DFGT.
Wheel is great, much more smooth and powerful in comparison.

Brakes however, well I done many laps to try and get used to them but it was impossible to gauge braking accurately when just needing a light feathering mid turn, first 15 - 20mm of movement was dead zone.
Uploaded new firmware - no difference to the brakes.
Ended up splitting down the unit and rotating around the small cog on each pot to the next tooth. Built back up and turned back on and perfect - no more dead zone :). Seems that the dead zone is just a bit of backlash before it picks up the tooth and moving it around seems to let it pick up better. It is a bit fiddly as the unit wants to spring apart once all the screws are out and the pedals don't sit at their"home" position once apart but still easily manageable (insert disclaimer if you try this here).

Not what I would expect to have to do on a brand new £250 set but hey ho, the wheel itself more than makes up for it and brakes are spot on now. Net result I am very happy.
 
I have now also tweaked the pedals and after the first try, I have almost no deadzone.
Because of that, braking is so much easier, which means you can really enjoy the wheel itself. The lack of resistance is also more bearable because at least you can have control over the braking.

I'm a lot happier now!!

If you have a T300 RS and haven't done, it is really worth it. Just follow @Captain Roh 's instructions at page 36 of this thread. It looks a bit daunting at first but it's actually easier than it looks. And I also confirm that closing the set is the most time consuming step. Just take your time and don't panic! :D
 
Got my T300RS a couple of days ago as an upgrade from DFGT.
Wheel is great, much more smooth and powerful in comparison.

Brakes however, well I done many laps to try and get used to them but it was impossible to gauge braking accurately when just needing a light feathering mid turn, first 15 - 20mm of movement was dead zone.
Uploaded new firmware - no difference to the brakes.
Ended up splitting down the unit and rotating around the small cog on each pot to the next tooth. Built back up and turned back on and perfect - no more dead zone :). Seems that the dead zone is just a bit of backlash before it picks up the tooth and moving it around seems to let it pick up better. It is a bit fiddly as the unit wants to spring apart once all the screws are out and the pedals don't sit at their"home" position once apart but still easily manageable (insert disclaimer if you try this here).

Not what I would expect to have to do on a brand new £250 set but hey ho, the wheel itself more than makes up for it and brakes are spot on now. Net result I am very happy.

So, you saying to open the pedal set and set the pedal gear teeth to pull tighter?
 
Almost. We mean: turn the potentiometer slightly so the pedal engages it earlier.

It all makes sense once you see it in action.
 
You hold the mode button for a second or two and release. The LED will change from default red color which is F1 style to green which is GT style.
gotcha, current my T300 RS is red at the moment, I don't know if it's green cos I haven't play my T300 for while so i will test when my T500 pedal arrive.
(FYI mine is GTE)
 
Just ordered mine tonight from Gamestop. Can anyone explain how warranties work just in case anything happens? My friend said Gamestop does not give warranties for wheels so if theres a way I can from Thrustmaster themselfs I will be much appreciated.
 
Just ordered mine tonight from Gamestop. Can anyone explain how warranties work just in case anything happens? My friend said Gamestop does not give warranties for wheels so if theres a way I can from Thrustmaster themselfs I will be much appreciated.

I also posted the below in the T300 Warranty Thread you created.

So just tonight I bought the T300 off gamestop and I need to know what I need to do if anything happens to the wheel if I need to contact Thrustmaster because my friend who works at gamestop said they don't give them on wheels. If anyone has info on warranties in the U.S please reply. Thanks

In the USA its 1 year. 👎 In the EU its two years. 👍
The difference being laws that pertain to consumer goods. :lol:

From Page 17/18 of the T300RS PDF Manual

Consumer warranty information

Worldwide, Guillemot Corporation S.A. (hereinafter “Guillemot”) warrants to the consumer that this Thrustmaster product shall be free from defects in materials and workmanship, for a warranty period which corresponds to the time limit to bring an action for conformity with respect to this product. In the countries of the European Union, this corresponds to a period of two (2) years from delivery of the Thrustmaster product. In other countries, the warranty period corresponds to the time limit to bring an action for conformity with respect to the Thrustmaster product according to applicable laws of the country in which the consumer was domiciled on the date of purchase of the Thrustmaster product (if no such action exists in the corresponding country, then the warranty period shall be one (1) year from the original date of purchase of the Thrustmaster product).
 
Yesteday I tested T3PA pedals with T300RS. Well, gas pedal had 30% deadzone. Brake pedall (without conical break mod) seems to be less stiffer than stock break pedal. But I think if you place some rubber (best will be the anti-resonance rubber spike) behind the brake stock pedal http://forum.avmania.e15.cz/download/file.php?id=4890&mode=view it does the job.

I have returned T3PA to the retailer and hope CSR Elites are much much better :)
 
Yesteday I tested T3PA pedals with T300RS. Well, gas pedal had 30% deadzone. Brake pedall (without conical break mod) seems to be less stiffer than stock break pedal. But I think if you place some rubber (best will be the anti-resonance rubber spike) behind the brake stock pedal http://forum.avmania.e15.cz/download/file.php?id=4890&mode=view it does the job.

I have returned T3PA to the retailer and hope CSR Elites are much much better :)
Never had T3PA pedals, but the CSR Elite pedals are excellent, very happy with those.
 
I've had mine for a few months now, it worked fine until now. After about 5 minutes of gameplay, the force feedback cuts severely, probably to about 10% of the original amount. As well as this, after the FF cuts out, I have a strange feeling when I turn left, but not right - like it's pulling slightly. It also takes multiple tries for the wheel to center itself upon startup. I'm wondering if this may be the cause of the FF loss??!! If you had any suggestions, that would be very helpful!
:boggled:
 
I've had mine for a few months now, it worked fine until now. After about 5 minutes of gameplay, the force feedback cuts severely, probably to about 10% of the original amount. As well as this, after the FF cuts out, I have a strange feeling when I turn left, but not right - like it's pulling slightly. It also takes multiple tries for the wheel to center itself upon startup. I'm wondering if this may be the cause of the FF loss??!! If you had any suggestions, that would be very helpful!
:boggled:

I would try motor calibration tool. Maybe It could help. I will post manual and files later todsy when I get back home.
 
Ok, thanks!

Okay, I got this directly from Thrustmaster support. I have no idea what exactly is this motor calibration good for, but its obviosly for some motor related issues which could be your case. Below you can find part of TM sent me:

"We strongly recommend using the Motor Calibration tool below and see if maybe it might fix the issue that you are encountering.

Notes (as stated in the PDF guide):
- the latest firmware needs to be installed before using this tool
- the detachable wheel needs to be removed before using this tool

Make sure that the drivers are properly installed and that the wheel is correctly plugged in (the power cable should be connected directly to a wall socket). After using the motor calibration tool, proceed with testing the wheel's functionality under Game Controllers Panel."


Attached please find the PDF user guide and here you can download the software

http://ulozto.net/xUbf4A13/t300motorcalibration-rar

Hope it helps.

Jiri
 

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