Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
Just orderded the T300 Ferrari integral racing wheel alcantara version voor 370 euro's.
Just hoping, they will be reliable by now.:scared:

If anybody likes to get a T300RS for less, Thrustmaster is selling refurbished ones with a warrantee voor 200 euro's in several euro country's. Wich is a lot cheaper than most second hand T300RS wheels, and those do not come with warranty.

http://shop.thrustmaster.com/nl_nl/speciale-aanbiedingen/gebruikt/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/nl_be/speciale-aanbiedingen-17/gebruikt/gebruikt-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/de_de/sonderangebote-36/gebrauchtprodukte/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/fr_fr/offres-speciales-34/produits-d-occasion/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/it_it/offerte-speciali-33/usato/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/pt_pt/ofertas-especiais/produtos-usados/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/de_at/sonderangebote-13/gebrauchtprodukte/occasion-t300-rs.html
 
I bought the 599xx bundle after Christmas. After maybe 3-4 hours of use the famous clanking/clicking/toc toc sound appeared. RMA the wheel to Montreal Guillemot service center (thank god im from quebec :)) and they came back to me saying that after inspection the base will be replaced by a new one. 20 days after the first email i got the replacement. Guess what this one is worse than the original. Mechanical play, the ffb is fighting left right, it click clank etc..

Returned the 1st replacement and got the 2nd replacement... just to find again the SAME F*&% problem im tired of all this and asked Thrustmaster for a Refund (waiting the green flag crossing fingers) I do not have any more interest in this wheel and no more time to waste with the return procedure.

Im waiting for my OSW small Mige from Ollie and should be good for my entire life !


Don't take me wrong I prefer the accuracy and low resistance from this wheel vs my T500rs but I cant stand this kind of weird sound and don't want to take a chance to be stuck with a brick after warranty ran out.
 
You're totally right.

Thrustmaster got to do something about this wheels. My repared wheel is about to arrive and honestly, i'm really concerned about this wheel get broken again.

If i'm able to sell it and buy a G29, i'll be tottaly happy.

Then, someday and i have the money, i get a Fanatec setup to myself.
 
I just used the 599xx alcantara T300RS on driveclub on ps4 and gt6 on ps3, and it really was above my expectations.

Now just hoping, it will last.
 
Well I didn't bother with getting new springs. My old man got new pedals.

This is his set up BTW. Once I move and have enough time and money I'll build my own.

image.jpeg
 
Ramanujan
If anybody likes to get a T300RS for less, Thrustmaster is selling refurbished ones with a warrantee voor 200 euro's in several euro country's. Wich is a lot cheaper than most second hand T300RS wheels, and those do not come with warranty.

http://shop.thrustmaster.com/nl_nl/speciale-aanbiedingen/gebruikt/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/nl_be/speciale-aanbiedingen-17/gebruikt/gebruikt-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/de_de/sonderangebote-36/gebrauchtprodukte/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/fr_fr/offres-speciales-34/produits-d-occasion/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/it_it/offerte-speciali-33/usato/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/pt_pt/ofertas-especiais/produtos-usados/occasion-t300-rs.html
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/de_at/sonderangebote-13/gebrauchtprodukte/occasion-t300-rs.html
Click to expand...
That's what made me choose the T300 over the T150 a few weeks ago.

I got mine through one of those deals. Except I had an extra 10% off coupon, so it ended up costing 179.99€ (shipping included).

I think it was a great deal, considering the 2-year warranty.
 
Dang, wish there were deals as those here in Asia... or even at least, resellers. But it's unfortunate the issues plaguing TM I've read a year or so ago are still present. Difficult not to think they're just recycling those returned units...do some minor fixes here and there (not on the main issues), then hope that new customers don't return them?
 
sherpa25
Difficult not to think they're just recycling those returned units...do some minor fixes here and there (not on the main issues), then hope that new customers don't return them?
Click to expand...
I doubt that's the case as they are offering a warranty so they would just be perpetuating the problem. I do think though it shows just how many have been returned. So many that they need to repair and resell them to recover the losses. I would think that even if they could break even they wouldn't go through all the hassel of repairing, repacking and reselling them.
 
My guess is that the refurbished/repaired wheels that TM are selling, are probably from customers that have returned their wheel and asked for a refund.

If I purchased a T300 with a one year warranty (12 months) and it brakes after 10 months. Am I right in assuming that the repaired unit I get back from TM will only have a 2 month warranty (the remainder of the original warranty)? If that's the case (which it probably is), then TM could easily be gambling and still sending out brand new wheels with no modifications to help improve the overall reliability.

A purchase costing this much should not be going faulty so soon. It should be expected to last a reasonable amount of time before failing. It's not a cheap £40 disposable toy wheel. :mad:
 
Since about 1998 or when I first bought GT1, I've been a controller user. Nearly a month ago I decided to take the plunge and picked up a T300RS. Fry's had a promo at the time and I only paid $308.00 plus tax. I couldn't pass that up again being as anxious as I was to get a wheel.

For a while before buying and scouring the web I was skeptical with the negativity but this was the best option for me. Now I'm not sure what the future holds with my wheel but at the moment everything seems to be in perfect working order. Except the d-pad right button needs finessing after a bit of use. It works just fine when first booted up. Another member was having this issue as well. I've only used it on PS3 with GT5 and 6 so far and will eventually buy a PS4 for GT Sport and AC.

So far in my short time with the wheel I've had a great experience and I look forward to many more hours of use. I'm still trying to find good feedback settings but I'm happy where I've ended up. Started at default, went to 5 for both sensitivity and torque, then heard 1 sensitivity 3 torque was supposed to be good (not for me) and have ended up at 6 sensitivity 3 torque.

With my little to no wheel experience I would definitely recommend this wheel. Oh and the pedals, a little on the stiff side but work for now until I pick up the T3PA Pros. Thanks for reading if you did and any wheel tips for this new user are definitely welcome.
 
Ramanujan
Al the refurbished T300RS wheels seem to be removed from the thrustmaster websites.
Only T80 and T100's remain for now.
Click to expand...
They come and go; you have to keep going back there and check - at least that was the case in the Portuguese website.

JohnBodin
FYI, for those former G25/G27 owners who now have T300 wheels and would like to be able use your G27 pedals
with your T300, the Bodin Solutions BPA-TX-G27 Pedal Adapter
Click to expand...
Is there something equivalent for the shifter as well?

More than a clutch + H-shifter, I'd be interested in adding a sequential shifter to my T300 (à la DFGT).
 
There are no adapters that let you use the G25/G27 shifters directly with the Thrustmaster wheels -- there ARE some USB adapters for the G25/G27 shifters that allow PC folks to use them as stand-alone USB devices for use with ANY wheel, but nothing to allow direct connection to Thrustmaster wheels for console use.

:(
 
I've had the wheel for almost 3 weeks now. Just yesterday I was using it, and noticed that the shaft connecting the wheel to the base is not centered in the hole in the base... I assume that this is definitely not normal?
 
Last edited:
turismoslayer
Since about 1998 or when I first bought GT1, I've been a controller user. Nearly a month ago I decided to take the plunge and picked up a T300RS. Fry's had a promo at the time and I only paid $308.00 plus tax. I couldn't pass that up again being as anxious as I was to get a wheel.

For a while before buying and scouring the web I was skeptical with the negativity but this was the best option for me. Now I'm not sure what the future holds with my wheel but at the moment everything seems to be in perfect working order. Except the d-pad right button needs finessing after a bit of use. It works just fine when first booted up. Another member was having this issue as well. I've only used it on PS3 with GT5 and 6 so far and will eventually buy a PS4 for GT Sport and AC.

So far in my short time with the wheel I've had a great experience and I look forward to many more hours of use. I'm still trying to find good feedback settings but I'm happy where I've ended up. Started at default, went to 5 for both sensitivity and torque, then heard 1 sensitivity 3 torque was supposed to be good (not for me) and have ended up at 6 sensitivity 3 torque.

With my little to no wheel experience I would definitely recommend this wheel. Oh and the pedals, a little on the stiff side but work for now until I pick up the T3PA Pros. Thanks for reading if you did and any wheel tips for this new user are definitely welcome.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the dark side :D:tup:

I only have a lowly G25, so I can't comment on how the settings feel, but sensitivity 10 and torque 1 works best for me. You want all the sensitivity you can get because that's where all the useful FFB is (weight transfer, grip, road surface). Torque is purely personal preference. I used to think heavy wheel is good, but the resistance can be a problem when you want to countersteer quickly. I gradually turned down the torque (go down 1 a week) and now I end up at minimum torque. Your muscle memory gets used to it pretty quickly and the lightness isn't an issue. On the good side you can feel every little nuance in FFB and you can countersteer much easier.

As for tips, there is just one: practice practice practice. It's quite disconcerting to see your laptimes be so far off your pad times, but everyone goes through this phase, trust me. Start with low powered FF cars, then 4WD, FR and finally MR or RR. Practice driving one track until you can get 10 laps without crashing or going off the track. Preferably you would want all driving aids turned off too.

Some key things to remember:
- Work with the wheel's FFB - don't fight it but don't let it control you either
- Be smooth but firm with your inputs
- In general you never need to turn >90 degrees (except for Eiger/Monaco hairpins)
- Countersteer have to be QUICK! You need to trust the wheel to point where you need to go, and then quickly rotate back to straight position. The whole maneuver should be over in a snap of a finger. I keep saying to be smooth, but countersteering is the only exception where you are allowed to be rough. This was the hardest concept for me to master (took me a month to get comfortable), so don't get discouraged if you keep spinning out.

I think that's about it really. It's a steep learning curve, but you will enjoy it every step of the way. Racing sims become a whole new world once you get a wheel. Good luck and have fun :)👍
 
GTRacer22
I've had the wheel for almost 3 weeks now. Just yesterday I was using it, and noticed that the shaft connecting the wheel to the base is not centered in the hole in the base... I assume that this is definitely not normal?
Click to expand...
Been discussed before, but basically... A little off center is fine as long as it's not rubbing against anything.
 
I'm fairly sure that someone else in this thread noticed that the shaft wasn't correctly centered with the plastic housing on their wheel too. As @skazz said, if the shaft and wheel rotate freely then it shouldn't be a problem. It's just an issue if you have OCD.
 
New Thrustmaster product : the DB9 PEDALS T.RJ12 ADAPTER.
Price : Only 9,99€ / £9.99

Product Description :
MAKES NON-THRUSTMASTER® PEDAL SETS (3 PEDALS, EQUIPPED WITH A DB9 CONNECTOR = Logitech G25 / G27 / G29 / G920) COMPATIBLE WITH MANY THRUSTMASTER® RACING WHEELS:

* Ferrari 458 Spider Racing Wheel
* TX Racing Wheel Series
* T150 Series
* T300 Series
* T500 Series

MULTI-PLATFORM COMPATIBILITY:
(depending on the Thrustmaster® racing wheel used)
* XBOX ONE™
* PLAYSTATION®3
* PLAYSTATION®4
* PC (Windows® 10 / 8 / 7 / Vista)

TAKE ADVANTAGE OF 4 TIMES GREATER RESOLUTION AND PRECISION ON YOUR NON-THRUSTMASTER® DB9-TYPE PEDAL SET:
Once connected to the Thrustmaster® racing wheel, the resolution of your DB9-type pedal set increases from 8-bit (255 values) to 10-bit (1024 values) on each of the 3 pedals (gas/brake/clutch)

db9.png


db9-2b.jpg


Available for Europeans countries here: http://shop.thrustmaster.com/en_gb/db9-pedals-t-rj12-adapter.html

For other countries, the best alternative is the BODIN Adapter or the RICMOTECH Adapter :
http://www.bodin-solutions.com/BPA-TX-G27_Pedal_Adapter/p1644578_11531457.aspx
http://www.ricmotech.com/product_p/rmt-t500w2g27p.htm

 
Made the switch from Logitech to Thrustmaster today. G27 -> T300RS/T3PA-Pro/TH8A. I'll do a full, fairly comprehensive review/comparison later after I've a bit more time with it and used it with more titles, but I'll go ahead and post my quick, first impressions after a few hours with it today playing Assetto Corsa.

The FFB is not entirely what I was expecting. It's subtle and quiet. I'm used to fighting the FFB on the G27 and here it just seems very transparent and unobtrusive. Definitely seems weaker on immediate judgement using the recommend settings, but quality over quantity is the order of the day here. By a large margin.

Pedals are pretty junk out of the box, I must say. Coming from G27 w/GTEye spring upgrades all round, I'd say the T3PA's are clearly more flimsy feeling in terms of action. Conical brake mod is an absolute must and transforms the brake pedal into something that I'm quite amazed by. Progressiveness of it is astounding and it nearly feels like a load cell in terms of application. My braking immediately improved and it's helped my slow speed car placement quite a bit already. Throttle and clutch desperately need some more resistance, though. Too easy to overdo the throttle, especially. I'll have to look into that. Lastly, I *love* the inverted pedals. It's one of the main reasons I got the Pro's over the basic T3PA's and I'm glad I did. Also, changing it to inverted, I found the metal plate was not easily attached to the other side. The holes dont line up quite right and it made it impossible to put the nut on one of the screws, so there's a bit of play on that side and it has a metallic tapping noise when I put my foot down on that part.

Shifter is quite nice. I thought the long throw(especially compared to the G27's shifter) would trip me up quite a bit, but I'm actually doing quite well with it with only very sparse misshifts and those can be cleaned up with some practice. Given my setup, I still think I want a shorter shaft, but I might not be in such a hurry anymore. One big problem though is that the DIN connection to the wheel isn't working. I can run it fine through USB to my PC, but it's not being recognized at all through DIN. I fear this is going to mean sending back the base T300 unit for repair. Or maybe just return it to Amazon and get a new one(might be quicker). Guess this is the old Thrustmaster reliability, eh? Pretty crap.

Quite happy with everything otherwise. I've got a lot more to say but want to save it for a full review and comparison.
 
Last edited:
Seanspeed
The FFB is not entirely what I was expecting. It's subtle and quiet. I'm used to fighting the FFB on the G27 and here it just seems very transparent and unobtrusive. Definitely seems weaker on immediate judgement using the recommend settings, but quality over quantity is the order of the day here. By a large margin.
Click to expand...

I agree with the FFB being more subtle, but the T300 should definitely not be weaker than the G27. On full strength, the T300 could easily cause injury if you're not careful. The G27 would never be able hurt you. Either you have the FFB strength turned way down, or your T300 is faulty. I never use my T300 at full FFB strength, because it's way too strong.
 
Awong124
I agree with the FFB being more subtle, but the T300 should definitely not be weaker than the G27. On full strength, the T300 could easily cause injury if you're not careful. The G27 would never be able hurt you. Either you have the FFB strength turned way down, or your T300 is faulty. I never use my T300 at full FFB strength, because it's way too strong.
Click to expand...
Well I ran the T300 at 65% FFB as recommended. And then 100% Gain in Assetto Corsa. I can believe it can be much stronger, but I've heard it will start to clip quite a bit above that recommended amount. By comparison, I ran the G27 at 101% FFB in the profiler(which seemed to fix any steering deadzone), but only 70% Gain in Assetto Corsa. Again - to reduce clipping.

I'll definitely play around with settings more and I wasn't trying to suggest that the T300 is an inherently weaker solution, just that at the recommended levels, it definitely does not exert the same strength of forces as the G27. And I dont mean that to be a bad thing at all. The 'strong' FFB of the G27 feels entirely artificial and often was being produced from the base, not the wheel, whereas the T300 felt like it was transmitting clean and usable signals through the wheel itself. Very different sensations all in all.
 
Seanspeed
Well I ran the T300 at 65% FFB as recommended. And then 100% Gain in Assetto Corsa. I can believe it can be much stronger, but I've heard it will start to clip quite a bit above that recommended amount. By comparison, I ran the G27 at 101% FFB in the profiler(which seemed to fix any steering deadzone), but only 70% Gain in Assetto Corsa. Again - to reduce clipping.

I'll definitely play around with settings more and I wasn't trying to suggest that the T300 is an inherently weaker solution, just that at the recommended levels, it definitely does not exert the same strength of forces as the G27. And I dont mean that to be a bad thing at all. The 'strong' FFB of the G27 feels entirely artificial and often was being produced from the base, not the wheel, whereas the T300 felt like it was transmitting clean and usable signals through the wheel itself. Very different sensations all in all.
Click to expand...

I think the level of FFB before clipping is hardware-limited, so I would think that the T300 can handle a lot more than the G27. But I don't have AC, so I don't know. But I have had occasions playing certain games where my T300 came close to spraining my wrist, even when running something like half of maximum FFB.
 
RoadRunner232
New Thrustmaster product : the DB9 PEDALS T.RJ12 ADAPTER.
Price : Only 9,99€ / £9.99

Product Description :
MAKES NON-THRUSTMASTER® PEDAL SETS (3 PEDALS, EQUIPPED WITH A DB9 CONNECTOR = Logitech G25 / G27 / G29 / G920) COMPATIBLE WITH MANY THRUSTMASTER® RACING WHEELS:

* Ferrari 458 Spider Racing Wheel
* TX Racing Wheel Series
* T150 Series
* T300 Series
* T500 Series

MULTI-PLATFORM COMPATIBILITY:
(depending on the Thrustmaster® racing wheel used)
* XBOX ONE™
* PLAYSTATION®3
* PLAYSTATION®4
* PC (Windows® 10 / 8 / 7 / Vista)

TAKE ADVANTAGE OF 4 TIMES GREATER RESOLUTION AND PRECISION ON YOUR NON-THRUSTMASTER® DB9-TYPE PEDAL SET:
Once connected to the Thrustmaster® racing wheel, the resolution of your DB9-type pedal set increases from 8-bit (255 values) to 10-bit (1024 values) on each of the 3 pedals (gas/brake/clutch)


Available for Europeans countries here: http://shop.thrustmaster.com/en_gb/db9-pedals-t-rj12-adapter.html

For other countries, the best alternative is the BODIN Adapter or the RICMOTECH Adapter :
http://www.bodin-solutions.com/BPA-TX-G27_Pedal_Adapter/p1644578_11531457.aspx
http://www.ricmotech.com/product_p/rmt-t500w2g27p.htm
Click to expand...

Great news, but is it confirmed that it's European only? I was thinking of getting the Ricmotech adapter but I want the higher resolution too :(
 
Doesn't the Ricmotech give the higher resolution too? It's only a cable that adapts from one style of plug to another, surely it's the wheel base that translates the signal and therefore improves the resolution.

I can't see how Thrust master have done anything different!!
 

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