Yes he did, I read the whole thread but couldn't make clear if he did that. But RM stands for race modification. And your car weight will drop from 1226kg to 1100kg due to the race modification
update!!! my hp went from 889 to 896 just by racing. that is strange but ill take it. it went up from 889 to 890 then to 894 and now to 896 wow!
but through the center the car did that weird wobble thing, where it looks like the car is literally twisting back and forth from left to right.
:/
Now this wobble thing is the main issue I have with this tune. I thought it was the LSD locking and unlocking. The wobble is definitely affected by acceleration. As soon as I apply the gas the car dives inward to the inside of the corner as oversteer.
If this can be sorted out it'd be awesome.
The concept behind the tune is to use break balance on corner entry, and negative rear toe for exit, but it has nothing to make it turn nicely mid-corner and/or when coasting. That's why its wobbly.
Great initial tune for me, made some minor tweaks to suit my driving style and really bring this beast under control. These adjustments toned down any tendency to loose the rear end on acceleration out of a corner.
Aero: 35/60
Transmission: Top Speed 400km/h
LSD: Init 7, Acc 10, Braking 10
Suspension: Height 3/3, Spring 16.4/14.4, Dampers 9/7, Anti-roll 3/5, Camber 2.0/1.5, Toe 0/-0.30
Brakes: 5/7
Fore a more all-round tune I can recommend the Avid tune:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4375948&posted=1#post4375948
ok I seen most of you got 904-905hp out of it and how come I got 917hp?
WikipediaPS
This unit (German: Pferdestärke = horse strength) is no longer a statutory unit, but is still commonly used in Europe, South America, Japan and India especially by the automotive and motorcycle industry. It was adopted throughout continental Europe with designations equivalent to the English horsepower, but mathematically different from the British unit.
DIN 66036 defines one horsepower to lift a mass of 75 kilograms within one second against the earth gravitation between a distance of one meter.[9] Similar definitions were already common to the time of James Watt.
The PS was adopted by the Deutsches Institut für Normung (DIN) and then by the automotive industry throughout most of Europe, under varying names. In 1992, the PS was rendered obsolete by EEC directives, when it was replaced by the kilowatt as the official power measuring unit. It is still in use for commercial and advertising purposes, in addition to the kW rating, as many customers are still not familiar with the use of kilowatts for engines.
I play a spanish version and its called CV which I thought was HP as CV is caballo de vapor which can be translated to horse power.
Thx for clarifying this as I had no idea and now I know why this difference
WikipediaCV and cv
In Italian (Cavalli), Spanish (Caballos de vapor), and Portuguese (Cavalo-vapor), CV is the equivalent to the German, PS. It is also used as the French term for the Pferdestärke, but in French, this should be written in lowercase letters as cv.
In addition, the capital form CV is used in Italy and France as a unit for tax horsepower, short for, respectively, cavalli vapore and chevaux vapeur (steam horses). CV is a non-linear rating of a motor vehicle for tax purposes.[10] The CV rating, or fiscal power, is , where P is the maximum power in kilowatts and U is the amount of CO2 emitted in grams per kilometre. The term for CO2 measurements has only been included in the definition since 1998, so older ratings in CV are not directly comparable. The fiscal power has found its way into naming of automobile models, such as the popular Citroën deux-chevaux. The cheval-vapeur (ch) unit should not be confused with the French cheval fiscal (CV).
In the 19th century, the French had their own unit, which they used instead of the CV or horsepower. It was called the poncelet and was abbreviated p.
Fully upgraded the ZR-1 RM gives 905hp att 1100Kg weight. My tune
Downforce: 35/53
Transm.: 360 km/h (380 at Nordschliefe)
Initial torque: 10
Acc sens: 20
Brake sens: 10
Ride h: 5/5 (35/35 at Nordschleife)
Spring: 16.6/14.4
Damp ext 9/7
Damp comp: 9/7
Anti RB: 3/5
Camber: 2/1.5
Toe: 0/-0.30
Brakes: 5/7
I play around with the rear breaks depending on track. Its good at 7 but if I want better turn in use 8, better stability a 6.
I also play around with rear springs. Its pretty balanced but if I want a bit more oversteer lowering the number seems to create overstear (opposite to what I expected)
Its by no means a perfect tune but its good enought to win Gold at All-Star. If someone has an idea to further improve it would be great.
Cheers