A-Spec 415PP Honda Civic Competition

Don't give up my friend, you can do it. Take a break as you suggest and go back to it with a fresh start. Try Basswerks car if mine is not working for you :)

I really wouldn't go for the 04 though. I tried that one when the seasonal first came out and whilst it was good for a couple of the races but it was a mile off the pace for the Route 5 race. At least that was the case for me.


Thanks.

Have you done the holiday seasonal? I saw you had posted in the thread. I am not doing it for the reasons I posted. I mean, name any race where the first car starts half a lap in front! Tried the 700 and saw lots of C60 Hybride's, how can they be in it, I got one but the PP is 714 when bought!

I find the whole thing unrealistic and quite daft. I will ignore it completely. For now. I did notice a tune for a Toyota Yellowhat! Hope you have done all the shopping and have an enjoyable Christmas Argon.

Ignore my moaning, most people do! :)
 
Thanks.

Have you done the holiday seasonal? I saw you had posted in the thread. I am not doing it for the reasons I posted. I mean, name any race where the first car starts half a lap in front! Tried the 700 and saw lots of C60 Hybride's, how can they be in it, I got one but the PP is 714 when bought!

I find the whole thing unrealistic and quite daft. I will ignore it completely. For now. I did notice a tune for a Toyota Yellowhat! Hope you have done all the shopping and have an enjoyable Christmas Argon.

Ignore my moaning, most people do! :)

Yes, have done the holiday seasonal and found it all way too easy (that is not in any way meant as a brag). I was hoping for something a little more challenging but at least the Corvette Time Trial is giving me something to work on.

You can always change the PP rating of a car by reducing the engine output. Highlight the car in your garage and using your triangle button, whilst over the car you want, a menu will pop-up. From here take the "settings" option you will then see a whole bunch of stuff about that car one of the options on the left is "engine" click on that and some options will pop-up one of them is titled "Engine Limiter" click the little round dial thing to the right of the title and this will throw up another page where you can adjust the power level, again click on the blue dial and you get a slider.....to get lower PP reduce the output :)

Another way to reduce PP is to add ballast to a car and sometimes this can be a better option especially where the car is out of balance i.e. too much weight front or back. You can use the ballast to even things out a little.

I saw your entry about the seasonal but again I would urge you to have a go at these. The no short cuts penalty will help you ultimately as it will encourage you to take a better line thereby avoiding little off track excursions that will incur a penalty.

Don't give up though and I hope you have a fabulous Christmas :)
 
Yes, have done the holiday seasonal and found it all way too easy (that is not in any way meant as a brag). I was hoping for something a little more challenging but at least the Corvette Time Trial is giving me something to work on.

You can always change the PP rating of a car by reducing the engine output. Highlight the car in your garage and using your triangle button, whilst over the car you want, a menu will pop-up. From here take the "settings" option you will then see a whole bunch of stuff about that car one of the options on the left is "engine" click on that and some options will pop-up one of them is titled "Engine Limiter" click the little round dial thing to the right of the title and this will throw up another page where you can adjust the power level, again click on the blue dial and you get a slider.....to get lower PP reduce the output :)

Another way to reduce PP is to add ballast to a car and sometimes this can be a better option especially where the car is out of balance i.e. too much weight front or back. You can use the ballast to even things out a little.

I saw your entry about the seasonal but again I would urge you to have a go at these. The no short cuts penalty will help you ultimately as it will encourage you to take a better line thereby avoiding little off track excursions that will incur a penalty.

Don't give up though and I hope you have a fabulous Christmas :)

I won't. I have been reading your progress in the seasonal. I like the way you praise people and also stand up for yourself with flak. Just because I have difficulties and choose to say them and I am allowed to criticize what I see as bad aspects of the game, one person called me a joke then so I told him to get lost.

I have some really good cars in my garage (I think you are able to see this?) so I have a lot to learn about the holiday seasonal and how to figure a way round things.

I wish everyone was patient and helpful as yourself though. I usually get round problems just that how I am means I get there a lot slower than most. Probably the best thing for me to do is read the comments and hints from the seasonal posts and not to make the negative comments myself, I only have because I get frustrated at how brilliant everyone else is to be honest!

Best of luck with the Corvette Time Trial too.
 
I did this seasonal yesterday.
The AI is fast, but not fast enough ;)
With the Civic Type R '08 (stock) I won all races.
Had SR on though.
 
I did this seasonal yesterday.
The AI is fast, but not fast enough ;)
With the Civic Type R '08 (stock) I won all races.
Had SR on though.

What is SR? Should I check that it is switched on? In my R '08 I just can't get past third in Special Route.
 
What is SR? Should I check that it is switched on? In my R '08 I just can't get past third in Special Route.

SR is actually SRF ( Skid Recovery Force ). You need to understand how it works to make best use of the function. SRF will catch a car in a skid and will put the car back onto the correct trajectory for the circuit. SRF will therefore only really be effective in cornering.

The best way to get the maximum out of the control is to drive hard into a corner (brake late and hard) and force the car into a skid, SRF will then straighten the car out and will align the car for the best possible exit meaning you can then mash the accelerator earlier and get better exit speed.

SRF is the only function that will give you faster lap times but it is such a forceful control that it masks bad driver control. You should only use it as a last result if your aim is to learn how to control a car through personal skill but if all you want is to drive a fast lap and don't care how you do it then SRF will help

You can activate SRF from the in race options
 
Finally put this one to bed. That Clubman SS5 Reverse was tres difficile. Luckily picked up a Type R (EP) '04 in the UCD and with only minor mods made it, using the wall crash at the end of the straight, aim for the right side of the yellow black hatched wall, bounce, thumb down and almost flat out most of the way, very little braking on this track. Need to do a low 5:28 to win, first lap has to be high 1:07. The 04 EP allows 215 HP ( a 6.1 0-60 time and 14.7 quarter mile), whereas the other Civics only give about 200-205 HP., I tried three or four of the others all were in the 5:30s. And I already had the Prize car anyway.
 
I would love an EP 04.

Meanwhile I trimmed it to +1.5 secs in the R 08 but still third.

Just put an EP 04 on share for you, knock your socks off :)
 
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Went to Eifel for a change and won on second attempt by nearly 1.5 sec. I have changed the tune a little also. Now it's 245hp (97.2%) and 200kg weight, 1470kg. Dropped the Turbo and now have Sports Exhaust Manifold, Sports Catalytic Converter and Titanium Racing Exhaust.
Worked for me, but not at Route 5 yet.

Dont brake on the first turn on route 5!
 
Well, just to add up some whining, CSR5 is a pain. Used the setup from Endless-Wilso (TKS!!) on a civic 08. All the other races were smooth... Got a silver on CSR5 after at least 10 tries. I'll try other cars and the ballast strategy mentioned before. I'm not using a wheel and my astigmatism is not helping running at night... I believe I'm loosing too much time on the first curve and my best time is 1'05. If anyone has any hint on how to improve the performance without a wheel it will be very welcome.

Youll save alot of time if you dont brake through the first turn
 
I have been trying to do it the "handy" way with a cheap used 95 hatchback, but even with all the mods that the PP limit would allow it just can't catch those Type-Rs out front on the tight tracks. The highest I have gotten was 2nd. Bought a used 04 Type-R, am going to try again.

That is my main annoyance with the online events, they put the fastest cars out front where they can just drive off into the sunset and you spend the whole time chasing them, it doesn't feel like a real race. One thing I liked about both GT4 and the regular events of GT5 is using a cheap, used car bone stock and outmaneuvering the AI. But you can't really do that here, you have to get a pretty high level car and mod it close to the PP limit to have a good hope at catching the lead car which starts off more than 20 seconds ahead of you.
 
Spent ages going through various Civics with no real gain, dont like FF cars at the best of times, tried the RM thats allowable but still couldnt get it set up for Autumn Ring, best i did was 3rd after many attempts. i dont consider myself too bad at GT but this had butthurt going on. Maybe i just dont get Civics lol :)
After a bit of fettling to setup on the Premium Civic Type R '08 i managed to win +7 secs!!!
So i thought id post my setup if it helps anyone.

- Aero kit A all round
- carbon bonnet
- Alloys
- Oil change!!
- Full weight reduction
- NO POWER TUNING required!
- All trans, drivetrain, suspension mods

Trans: it is! [max:124]
Diff: 10 / 30 / 5
Suspension:
height: -20/-20
springs: 8.7/4.7
ext: 7/5
comp: 6/4
ARBs: 4/3

camber: 1.7/1.2
toe: -0.21/0.10

Aero rear: 5
weight: +150!
balance: all the way to the rear!
[total car weight 1200Kgs]

Engine limiter to around 93% [211 Bhp] [variable]

I finally got the ugly 'lil thing to work for me......
[no offence to Civic luvvers, whatever!]
Hope this might help someone. not an expensive tune either coz no power mods ;)
 
Oh! and cheated a bit with:
traction control: 1
Skid Recovery: ON
ABS: 4
i have controller sensitivity set to 2 if it makes a differnce to anyone ;)
 
Spent ages going through various Civics with no real gain, dont like FF cars at the best of times, tried the RM thats allowable but still couldnt get it set up for Autumn Ring, best i did was 3rd after many attempts. i dont consider myself too bad at GT but this had butthurt going on. Maybe i just dont get Civics lol :)
After a bit of fettling to setup on the Premium Civic Type R '08 i managed to win +7 secs!!!
So i thought id post my setup if it helps anyone.

- Aero kit A all round
- carbon bonnet
- Alloys
- Oil change!!
- Full weight reduction
- NO POWER TUNING required!
- All trans, drivetrain, suspension mods

Trans: it is! [max:124]
Diff: 10 / 30 / 5
Suspension:
height: -20/-20
springs: 8.7/4.7
ext: 7/5
comp: 6/4
ARBs: 4/3

camber: 1.7/1.2
toe: -0.21/0.10

Aero rear: 5
weight: +150!
balance: all the way to the rear!
[total car weight 1200Kgs]

Engine limiter to around 93% [211 Bhp] [variable]

I finally got the ugly 'lil thing to work for me......
[no offence to Civic luvvers, whatever!]
Hope this might help someone. not an expensive tune either coz no power mods ;)

Been using your suspension and LSD settings on my 04 Type-R w/o traction control and skid recovery force. A couple hours and a bad case of Nintendo Thumb later, I have beaten everything but Autumn Ring. With the LSD set up the way it is you actually power into the turns with the throttle to bring out the vehicle's grip, but you need to be careful about that as to not understeer into the grass. Whats making it even trickier is that I have been using the manual transmission for that race because I feel that I need to use the extra engine braking to power through the turns to catch me up to those Type-Rs. But I keep tricking myself with doing that and trying to power the thing too to keep it grippy. Its very tricky.
 
Just put an EP 04 on share for you, knock your socks off :)

Thanks Argon.

I have been playing a lot of Fifa 13 lately so have seen suddenly the message "Argon56 is now offline" :lol:

Nice to read the fresh updates here too, I know I am the laughing stock and will be the last person on the planet to complete Special Route but I am determined to do it! :crazy:
 
Thanks Argon.

I have been playing a lot of Fifa 13 lately so have seen suddenly the message "Argon56 is now offline" :lol:

Nice to read the fresh updates here too, I know I am the laughing stock and will be the last person on the planet to complete Special Route but I am determined to do it! :crazy:

I think I can be pretty sure that however long you take you will not be the last person to complete it. I know some may look down on this but try some of the "cheats" that have been outlined namely take the first corner without braking i.e. rub the wall. And for sure try SRF it should shave 1-2 seconds per lap if used correctly which will be more than enough for you to win.

Let me know if you want that 04 car tuned a bit. I just put it on share without doing anything to it.

Good luck 👍
 
First attempt in the 04 was +7.6 and second time +6.7.

I have to criticize my own 'skills' as I think I brake far too much overall, have problems sometimes on the chicane where you really should not brake at all, also the tunnel when veering to the right I think I need to do do a lot better.

Back in the R 08 I got +2.6 first time so now I am going to try the instructions posted about traction and steering to see if that improves things.
 
Success (almost)!

Just set ABS to 4 and traction to 1 and got 00.180 behind and now have a silver!
 
Success (almost)!

Just set ABS to 4 and traction to 1 and got 00.180 behind and now have a silver!

If you find you are over-braking then set the braking balance to lower numbers, try 2:1.

Lowering the number does NOT decrease the amount of baking available it only changes how quickly the full force comes on. Using a lower number in the brake balance may give you a more predictable braking pattern.

It may actually be better if you set the ABS back to 1 as well as I think you really need the balance adjustment rather than additional ABS power.

Nice going on the improvement BTW, you have almost cracked it 👍
 
If you find you are over-braking then set the braking balance to lower numbers, try 2:1.

Lowering the number does NOT decrease the amount of baking available it only changes how quickly the full force comes on. Using a lower number in the brake balance may give you a more predictable braking pattern.

It may actually be better if you set the ABS back to 1 as well as I think you really need the balance adjustment rather than additional ABS power.

Nice going on the improvement BTW, you have almost cracked it 👍

Thank you for the encouragement.

I now got to within +00.091 so that is like just almost to overtake into first position.

At least I have improved to silver. I can try the ABS back to 1 later and I have not checked the brake balance to be fair.

I could not get why someone was writing about doing the full weight reduction and oil change because if I buy from stock at 409PP this takes it past 415PP so you can't do it really.

I am almost there, with 112 set but I think the gear ratios are a bit off perhaps from the original tune I used and where I have tinkered about.
 
Thank you for the encouragement.

I now got to within +00.091 so that is like just almost to overtake into first position.

At least I have improved to silver. I can try the ABS back to 1 later and I have not checked the brake balance to be fair.

I could not get why someone was writing about doing the full weight reduction and oil change because if I buy from stock at 409PP this takes it past 415PP so you can't do it really.

I am almost there, with 112 set but I think the gear ratios are a bit off perhaps from the original tune I used and where I have tinkered about.

Go back to a previous post I made about adjusting the engine output to reduce the PP. You can normally add tuning parts then adjust the setting of the car to bring it back within the PP limit. The three ways to reduce the PP of the car after adding tune up parts are;

1) Remove a tuned part or swap for a lesser variation for example a sports exhaust has a lower PP value than a full racing exhaust (see note below)
2) Add ballast to the car - increasing the weight reduces the PP
3) Reduce the engine output - lower BHP equates to lower PP

*Note: Some tuning parts can't be removed for example you can't remove weight reduction.

Hope this makes sense, if not PM me :)
 
Go back to a previous post I made about adjusting the engine output to reduce the PP. You can normally add tuning parts then adjust the setting of the car to bring it back within the PP limit. The three ways to reduce the PP of the car after adding tune up parts are;

1) Remove a tuned part or swap for a lesser variation for example a sports exhaust has a lower PP value than a full racing exhaust (see note below)
2) Add ballast to the car - increasing the weight reduces the PP
3) Reduce the engine output - lower BHP equates to lower PP

*Note: Some tuning parts can't be removed for example you can't remove weight reduction.

Hope this makes sense, if not PM me :)

Okay, in simple terms (for me) adding ballast / weight decreases performance?

When it says regulations breached I have been reducing the power limiter each time, sometimes as low as 97%.

I am so close to the gold now it may be a case of getting lucky next time. I think improving on the first bend which I have been doing may be the answer.

If I have learned anything at all is that you cannot afford a bad lap, in the sense that being 00.091 seconds off the lead, best lap time 104 can happen in any lap but is no good if three are at 105 and one at 106 - consistency is the key and of course patience, not everyone can drive a perfect round.
 
Okay, in simple terms (for me) adding ballast / weight decreases performance?

Don't think of it as decreasing performance so much as altering the driving characteristics of the car. Adding weight to get the car below the PP limit so that you can increase the engine output (BHP) by adding other tuning parts such as a better exhaust can and will in this case increase performance.

When you tune a car you seldom do just one thing but taken in isolation yes, just adding weight alone will decrease the performance.

For this Seasonal, if you add weight and I recommend that you do, then shift the ballast position to take some of the weight off the front wheels (I try to get a 53:47 weight split) this will make the turn in sharper and reduce understeer.

When it says regulations breached I have been reducing the power limiter each time, sometimes as low as 97%.

Try adding ballast instead of reducing the engine output it can be be a much better option :)
 
Don't think of it as decreasing performance so much as altering the driving characteristics of the car. Adding weight to get the car below the PP limit so that you can increase the engine output (BHP) by adding other tuning parts such as a better exhaust can and will in this case increase performance.

When you tune a car you seldom do just one thing but taken in isolation yes, just adding weight alone will decrease the performance.

For this Seasonal, if you add weight and I recommend that you do, then shift the ballast position to take some of the weight off the front wheels (I try to get a 53:47 weight split) this will make the turn in sharper and reduce understeer.



Try adding ballast instead of reducing the engine output it can be be a much better option :)

Got all that. Thanks again. Further attempts later! :)
 
Christ SS5 took some doing. I narrowed it down to the '08 Type R which felt the most stable and the fastest, but it was still only good for 2nd, and i couldn't for the life in me see how i could make more time at the Max PP as well.

So i tried the rear ballast trick a few pages back but that felt awful to me so i went against that and put 75kg at -15 to the front and won XD.
 
Christ SS5 took some doing. I narrowed it down to the '08 Type R which felt the most stable and the fastest, but it was still only good for 2nd, and i couldn't for the life in me see how i could make more time at the Max PP as well.

So i tried the rear ballast trick a few pages back but that felt awful to me so i went against that and put 75kg at -15 to the front and won XD.



Congrats, I might have another go at the weekend with the ballast changes seeing as I got to a tenth of a second off gold.
 
My post a few pages back with ballast in the rear [junk in the trunk, lol] , may only work with all the suspenison, camber and diff settings i used, it works for me maybe because i prefer rear wheel drive cars and it felt like driving one going hard into the corners and let the tail looses a little bit so you are already facing more of the direction you want to go instead of understeering and just making the outside kerbs. it felt like RWD but had the power on the front to pull you back out of it! with the weight in the back i had to use a bit of TCS to stop the fronts spinning up. i had only come silver place on autumn ring before after loads of attempts but won by 7 secs first attempt after my listed settings! i love driving this car now exactly as it is. if ur going to use the settings push the car hard and drive it like a RWD!!
 
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