ABS 0 community where are you???

I'll be uploading new no ABS driving videos soon, all are untuned cars, with CM tires and 500+pp, Lamborghini Countach '88 at Rome and Dodge Viper GTS '02 at Daytona Road Course with the tricky 1st corner braking. All were driven with grip:real, high BB, 10/7 or 10/8 and tire wear/fuel consumption on. They were not hotlaps, more like practice run I always have every week, but they are clean, and great to watch.

I hope these videos could ignite interests in no ABS driving for those who used ABS. For now, please enjoy my recently uploaded videos, Zonda, Maserati and Stratos, check the link in my sig, any comments are welcomed. Cheers.
 
When I run a public lobby it is always without aids and ABS. As most on my friends list are on wheels with H-pattern shifters we prefer the feel of the tires locking when downshifting. Given that this group is predominantly experienced drifters, touge racers, and a few rally nutjobs battling it out on Nordschleife, Eiger, and several custom technical tracks in high-speed stock cars and shuffle races the replays often look more like a tandem drift session while a couple morons pull off-road shortcuts in their Zondas. We joke that ABS is for people who are allergic to smoke or scared their pit crew won't tighten the lug nuts all the way.

Turn the damage to heavy with no ABS for some fun racing, pull out 500PP and up cars with tuning prohibited riding on sports hard rubber for some real fun! There's no fixing your car to make it handle perfectly here, it's more challenging than most people who only fool with tuned cars may realize. Passes go from belligerent sideswipes that shove people off the track to carefully planned and calculated maneuvers, suddenly everyone stops driving like maniacs in a demolition derby and some actual racing happens where a good driver will prevail.
 
When I run a public lobby it is always without aids and ABS. As most on my friends list are on wheels with H-pattern shifters we prefer the feel of the tires locking when downshifting. Given that this group is predominantly experienced drifters, touge racers, and a few rally nutjobs battling it out on Nordschleife, Eiger, and several custom technical tracks in high-speed stock cars and shuffle races the replays often look more like a tandem drift session while a couple morons pull off-road shortcuts in their Zondas. We joke that ABS is for people who are allergic to smoke or scared their pit crew won't tighten the lug nuts all the way.

Turn the damage to heavy with no ABS for some fun racing, pull out 500PP and up cars with tuning prohibited riding on sports hard rubber for some real fun! There's no fixing your car to make it handle perfectly here, it's more challenging than most people who only fool with tuned cars may realize. Passes go from belligerent sideswipes that shove people off the track to carefully planned and calculated maneuvers, suddenly everyone stops driving like maniacs in a demolition derby and some actual racing happens where a good driver will prevail.

Your room settings are very similar to mine, but I only allow comfort tires, makes for great races with SuperGT/JGTC cars on CM/CS tires. We should hang out on a public lobby some times :D
 
I don't understand - Why when I open lobby with "ABS-0, CS tires" description people join and ask me to unlimit tires to RH and change ABS to 1? Moreover, they complain if I ignore!
 
Olegonic
I don't understand - Why when I open lobby with "ABS-0, CS tires" description people join and ask me to unlimit tires to RH and change ABS to 1? Moreover, they complain if I ignore!

Tell them to choose the right room for their own preference. I do not say much to these people, normally I give 1 warning to them, then if they still can't follow the house rules, off they go by a kick. You need to filter off these drivers by doing so. Spoilers are not welcome because they will cause a nuisance to the whole room. I've kick many in my room. But there are some drivers came back with good behavior.
 
I recently took the R8 LMS (Playstation Team) out on Trial Mountain in this one room with all aids disabled. I did about 7-8 laps until I had to leave the game, but I could've gone three times that amount I was having so much fun.

Since I'm on a DS3 getting used to driving sans ABS has been a bit of a challenge, but then again part of the reason I enjoyed those laps at Trial Mountain so much, besides the increased difficulty, is just getting to learn to drive again. I truly missed that feeling.
 
I believe everyone has a choice on how to play this game, but I don't understand why not use ABS in cars that have them? Sure turn it off on the VW Bug '49, but why on the Ford Focus? Just asking, and I applaud everyone that turns it off. 👍
 
I'm slowly getting there. No ABS on anything up to 500PP at this stage. I'll get there... :) I use a shaped rubber/sponge ball behind the brake pedal to give me better feel, but still get carried away sometimes in actual races. :lol:
 
I believe everyone has a choice on how to play this game, but I don't understand why not use ABS in cars that have them? Sure turn it off on the VW Bug '49, but why on the Ford Focus? Just asking, and I applaud everyone that turns it off. 👍

You can start by reading posts from several pages back, many members shared their thoughts as to why ABS in GT5 is a mere brake assist that do not resemble at all to how real life ABS works. It gives extra stability to cars, and preventing wheel lock ups unlike a real ABS would do.

In my opinion with ABS on, cars can be driven unlike how a real car would do, driving style are totally different too. With ABS on, a driver would be able to pull braking - corner entry maneuver that would not work in real life, while with ABS off, driver are more planted to real world techniques, trail braking works like in real life and cars change direction in corners much like in real life.

Example of how ABS on would make a car brake, turn in and handle rather unrealistically :

One of driving test for a FITT Fall Battle 2.0 shootout :






Example of how no ABS driving would make the car drive the way it should be when braking, corner entry and maneuverability.

Maserati GranTurismo S '08 at Motegi Full Road Course, 2:22.683 - no ABS, high BB 10/8



Watch both videos until the end, and see the difference in braking, corner entry/negotiation techniques and general handling of the car.
 
I believe everyone has a choice on how to play this game, but I don't understand why not use ABS in cars that have them? Sure turn it off on the VW Bug '49, but why on the Ford Focus? Just asking, and I applaud everyone that turns it off. 👍

And I can't for the life of me understand why anyone would play with ABS on in any car where there is the option to turn it off(which is all of them of course). Different tastes for different players. Whether the odd differences are due to some actual extra assist or just GT5's over-effective and almost predictive ABS system combined with its odd tire performance is largely irrelevant. Racing without ABS is just plain more fun by a mile for me, in any game.

Balancing the car under acceleration on your own is much more enjoyable than just hitting the throttle and largely forgetting about it coming out of every corner. Likewise, balancing the car under deceleration yourself is much more enjoyable than just hitting the brake pedal and then mostly ignoring it going into every corner. That is a slight oversimplification of driving with TC or ABS but is pretty much the way it feels to me.

I like to be the one in control of the car at all times, and I can't understand why people would want to remove such a large segment of the fun of driving fast. When it comes to racing, having all of the drivers controlling all aspects of their cars' handling under acceleration and deceleration creates more opportunities for differences between each car, and therefore more opportunities for action on-track.

Not picking on your point of view, just trying to explain mine. Other people surely have their own reasons. GT5 as well as most games just feels incredibly sterile and boring to me with ABS and/or Traction Control on.
 
I believe everyone has a choice on how to play this game, but I don't understand why not use ABS in cars that have them? Sure turn it off on the VW Bug '49, but why on the Ford Focus? Just asking, and I applaud everyone that turns it off. 👍
Because in GT5 it works not exact the way like in real car - read all posts please and you will find that ABS in this game is like sort of stability management system. I have been driving a car for 20 years and my ABS is nothing similiar to GT5.
 
I got really excited about ABS off a few months back after reading some of these posts. Some issues that I had maybe can get some feeback on.

First off modded my DFGT pedals with the sponge and even added some small bungees for more resistance. Much better feel, not great but better.

Used only stock vehicles offline in practice or arcade TT modes. Started with a Miata then the DLC Aston as I'd been driving it a lot on custom tracks. Comfort tires only as I was wanting some realism. 2/1 or similar low settings. Adjusted the lock up like Ridox had posted in another thread.

Now what I experienced with the lock up issue came from the way I applied the brakes. With ABS1, I will brake gradually. Never full force but increasing pressure as I slow then easing off into apex. With it off it seemed the opposite was needed. Lots of initial pedal force then having to ease up to prevent lock up. Never quite got comfortable with braking that way as it felt like I wasn't braking with proper technique. Not how I brake in a real car.

I could adjust to it when alone on track but when I'd set up an Arcade race or a seasonal, I kept locking up or rear ending the AI. Then lost interest and went back to ABS1. Maybe it was the cars I was using and also some laziness on my part. Just found it tricky to retrain my braking muscle memory.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
 
I got really excited about ABS off a few months back after reading some of these posts. Some issues that I had maybe can get some feeback on.

First off modded my DFGT pedals with the sponge and even added some small bungees for more resistance. Much better feel, not great but better.

Used only stock vehicles offline in practice or arcade TT modes. Started with a Miata then the DLC Aston as I'd been driving it a lot on custom tracks. Comfort tires only as I was wanting some realism. 2/1 or similar low settings. Adjusted the lock up like Ridox had posted in another thread.

Now what I experienced with the lock up issue came from the way I applied the brakes. With ABS1, I will brake gradually. Never full force but increasing pressure as I slow then easing off into apex. With it off it seemed the opposite was needed. Lots of initial pedal force then having to ease up to prevent lock up. Never quite got comfortable with braking that way as it felt like I wasn't braking with proper technique. Not how I brake in a real car.

I could adjust to it when alone on track but when I'd set up an Arcade race or a seasonal, I kept locking up or rear ending the AI. Then lost interest and went back to ABS1. Maybe it was the cars I was using and also some laziness on my part. Just found it tricky to retrain my braking muscle memory.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

With the new 2.08 update changes, you should be able to apply brake force more with lesser chance to lock up, now I'm running most cars at 10/7 or 10/8 even with comfort hard tires fitted. Braking input seems to have been tweaked and smoother than before.

Comfort hard tires on 400pp cars is a good way to train your braking muscle memory, I recommend the trio - GT86, FRS or BRZ. Maybe BRZ is better as it has a bit of understeer to make you a bit less aggressive on the brakes.

If you were running 2/1 BB before, you can try to increase to 3/1, use London Reverse track, go to arcade and choose slowest AI difficulty, and try to overtaking them one by one by out braking them. London Reverse has several good places to practice low speed straight line braking and one trail braking around the big round about. Don't rush to get in front, try to follow the AI braking close behind them bumper to bumper to get that smooth touch :D

Check my video here for references of braking points, it's faster car but it's got comfort medium, so should be similar. More on my sig link.

Ferrari 599 at London Reverse, 1:04.077


I hope these could help you train yourself, I did practice a lot back then in 2010, the 1st 3 months without ABS doing licenses and special events were nightmarish but perseverance will not disappoint. Good luck.
 
I got really excited about ABS off a few months back after reading some of these posts. ... Never quite got comfortable with braking that way as it felt like I wasn't braking with proper technique. Not how I brake in a real car.

I could adjust to it when alone on track but when I'd set up an Arcade race or a seasonal, I kept locking up or rear ending the AI. Then lost interest and went back to ABS1. Maybe it was the cars I was using and also some laziness on my part. Just found it tricky to retrain my braking muscle memory.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

It might not be possible for you at this time, I understand that, but my recommendation is to go with a load cell brake pedal.
It would get you closer to how you brake in a real car and make it much easier to have muscle memory instead of having to control how far your foot is pushing.
When I travel I use a potentiometer brake pedal and still no ABS, because to me the cars are much more alive ( real ) when ABS is off. But the braking is not as good as when I use my load cell pedal. Still even if I am not as fast, it is a different challenge and a lot of fun.

Braking input seems to have been tweaked and smoother than before.

Ridox, I feel the same, it is light but I think something has been done. To me the game is better than ever. :)
 
Thanks guys. I'll give it another go.

At the time I was trying to get the most realism out of GT5 so I was using only unmodded cars offline with comfort tires. When I do some spirited driving IRL it "feels" more like ABS1 in GT5. Granted I'm never driving at the 100% GT5 level. Hard to teach an old dog new tricks too, heh. DFGT pedals are pretty primitive to be generous as well.
 
Now what I experienced with the lock up issue came from the way I applied the brakes. With ABS1, I will brake gradually. Never full force but increasing pressure as I slow then easing off into apex. With it off it seemed the opposite was needed. Lots of initial pedal force then having to ease up to prevent lock up. Never quite got comfortable with braking that way as it felt like I wasn't braking with proper technique. Not how I brake in a real car.

But the grip threshold of your tyres is at its largest when you are travelling fastest, i.e. before/just as you begin to brake. So you should be putting the most force at the beginning of you braking and easing off as the threshold lowers with speed. :odd:
 
FordMKIVJ5
But the grip threshold of your tyres is at its largest when you are travelling fastest, i.e. before/just as you begin to brake. So you should be putting the most force at the beginning of you braking and easing off as the threshold lowers with speed. :odd:

In an emergency stop in your driving test your method is correct. Easing off at the end so as not to lock up your wheels.

Pulling up at traffic lights at 10 mph it's the opposite. Maximum brake at the last minute.

Different methods for different corners and driving styles on track.

A vast majority of my braking in a videos game is in a straight line.
I would use your method on a hairpin corner if I'm under pressure or chasing probably.

Medium corners I tend to just tap the brake prior to entry and carry speed through.

Guess what I'm trying to say is that different styles and corners require different techniques obviously.

The method you posted is the quickest to bring yourself to a stop guaranteed. The Highway Code recomend it.

Going into a bend and throwing all that weight to the front, especially under braking could give a ton of understeer.

I rambled a bit then. Sorry.
 
They did tweak the brake response in one of the patches, maybe more. There used to be a direct link to your brake pedal, but since that change there seems to be a limit to how quickly the brake meter fills when you hit the brake. You could always brake fairly quickly, but you had to be smooth instead of just instantly flooring it.

Now if you slam the pedal/button right to your max intended pressure, the meter will catch up to you at a slightly slower pace which keeps the instant lockup from happening. I actually preferred it the old way because I like direct feel and had eventually learned it, but there is no doubt it is a bit more forgiving and reliable now. That is unless it changed in the last patch and I haven't noticed.
 
I'm trying to get into ABS off racing again after doing it a while back in a couple of R1600Turbo's great ABS off online races. Tonight I did ABS off HUD off in arcade mode with the HSV at Spa and then FRS at Nordschleife. So much fun and so satisfying to do both ABS and HUD off. My playing time had been waning the past few weeks but I feel the joy revived again. Getting a buttkicker gamer 2 helped also.:)
 
In an emergency stop in your driving test your method is correct. Easing off at the end so as not to lock up your wheels.

Pulling up at traffic lights at 10 mph it's the opposite. Maximum brake at the last minute.

Different methods for different corners and driving styles on track.

A vast majority of my braking in a videos game is in a straight line.
I would use your method on a hairpin corner if I'm under pressure or chasing probably.

Medium corners I tend to just tap the brake prior to entry and carry speed through.

Guess what I'm trying to say is that different styles and corners require different techniques obviously.

The method you posted is the quickest to bring yourself to a stop guaranteed. The Highway Code recomend it.

Going into a bend and throwing all that weight to the front, especially under braking could give a ton of understeer.

I rambled a bit then. Sorry.

But I mean on a track, going from a straight into a low speed corner (i.e. the only place when you'd use the full pedal travel) you need to slow the car as much as possible. So you'd go straight to the brake threshold (most likely way down the pedal because of your speed). Then as you begin to reach threshold, ease the pedal out, preferably at the same time you'd be easing out to trail brake.

And by the way, the highway code emergency stop is just stamp on the brakes, not what I said. :)
 
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This weekend I gave ABS 0 another go. Only running offline Arcade-pro level AI. Ran several 5-7 lappers on Nord24 in different race/touring cars with SS or RH tires. Kept a 4/2 setting. Got used to it pretty quickly and started modulating the brakes differently. 80% pedal force and easing off way before lock up. Very easy to trail brake. One of my problems which is really just bad technique, is not keeping a bit of throttle engaged when getting off the brake before a tight turn in. That's what caused the aggravating lift off spin that was driving me nuts! Keeping that in mind along with some throttle blipping worked excellent. It would eliminate any brake understeer. Really enjoyed my laps in the R33TC and EvoX TC. All high speed braking of course.

Different results next. Tried the Subie BRZ on CH at London R like Ridox suggested. Drove behind the AI at various speeds to experiment. Started at 3/1 but pedal lock up with maybe 40% pedal force at any speed which were all low like actual street driving in traffic. Not realistic feeling at all. Never went over 85mph. Kept moving the sliders down further and further to get some sort of pedal feel that wasn't immediate grab and lock. Reminded me of an old car with drum brakes that need adjusting. At 1/0 the car would barely stop. Then went to 5/5 and ABS1. Now it would stop with modulation like an actual street car. It was almost a masochistic experience with it off-like some sort of gaming handicap.

So I'm still on the fence. I'd been running fully stock cars in cockpit view/ all hud off trying to have the most immersive realistic driving experience GT5 allows. Seems like a popular opinion is GT5's ABS is akin to any other driving aid that bends the rules of physics. I don't use any other aids so eliminating ABS seems like the natural progression to added realism. But driving that Subie without it didn't feel at all like a modern car whatsoever, at least at London speeds.

Maybe I'm just wanting more than GT5's physics can deliver. Was hoping for some default ABS off settings for various drivetrains that I could just plug in and get close to the actual cars stock brake tendencies. Perhaps keep it off for race type cars and on for modern street cars? Do modern race cars have some type of anti lock brakes? Help!!
 
Are you using wheel or stick or D-pad?

I think PD initially designed ABS 1 to compensate for people using "D-pad" to counter the violent steering inputs during turn-in of a corner. They knew they had to target a wider market of casual gamers out there since not everyone that plays GT5 plans to/can afford to buy a wheel and that is why they brought on the magical hidden traction control system to fight oversteering during trail braking as you're turning in for the majority of DS3 users. Not sure if its true for analog stick users since I find them very uncomfortable to use but I know progressive steering can't be done with a "D-pad".

If there's still any confusion or doubt to this, it's really obvious to see that stability assist does exist if one were to trail brake. Notice how the car doesn't even turn as effective when trailing off the brakes compared to ABS OFF

As for real life I'm not sure since I've never really tried or braked a car going at 150+ mph before but I would assume that threshold braking would still be applied even in a car that has ABS installed. That is why PD pretty much thought it was pointless to replicate real life ABS system anyway because it would interfere and kick in too soon
 
I use a DFGT with some mods for more resistance. Yes, I noticed better rotation-that's why I came around to seeing ABS ON does more than only keeping the brakes from locking.

And no, I've have no experience with extreme high speed braking either. Only comparing the Subie's brake characteristics with ABS 0 at regular traffic speeds to real life. I drive an Evo X with summer HP tires. When hitting the brakes at say 80% pedal from 60 mph, the car slows without any lockup or drama. You can't compare a real car with all kinds of assists to a video game car without assists, but you get my point.

I'm just trying to get a better understanding of the motivation for having ABS on or off. A more challenging game experience or a more life like driving experience.
 
Different results next. Tried the Subie BRZ on CH at London R like Ridox suggested. Drove behind the AI at various speeds to experiment. Started at 3/1 but pedal lock up with maybe 40% pedal force at any speed which were all low like actual street driving in traffic. Not realistic feeling at all. Never went over 85mph. Kept moving the sliders down further and further to get some sort of pedal feel that wasn't immediate grab and lock. Reminded me of an old car with drum brakes that need adjusting. At 1/0 the car would barely stop. Then went to 5/5 and ABS1. Now it would stop with modulation like an actual street car. It was almost a masochistic experience with it off-like some sort of gaming handicap.

Front lock or rear lock? If it's rear your turning too much while on the brakes, the GT86/FR-S/BRZ are all really twitchy and unstable when trail braking. 👍
 
Different results next. Tried the Subie BRZ on CH at London R like Ridox suggested. Drove behind the AI at various speeds to experiment. Started at 3/1 but pedal lock up with maybe 40% pedal force at any speed which were all low like actual street driving in traffic. Not realistic feeling at all. Never went over 85mph. Kept moving the sliders down further and further to get some sort of pedal feel that wasn't immediate grab and lock. Reminded me of an old car with drum brakes that need adjusting. At 1/0 the car would barely stop. Then went to 5/5 and ABS1. Now it would stop with modulation like an actual street car. It was almost a masochistic experience with it off-like some sort of gaming handicap.

So I'm still on the fence. I'd been running fully stock cars in cockpit view/ all hud off trying to have the most immersive realistic driving experience GT5 allows. Seems like a popular opinion is GT5's ABS is akin to any other driving aid that bends the rules of physics. I don't use any other aids so eliminating ABS seems like the natural progression to added realism. But driving that Subie without it didn't feel at all like a modern car whatsoever, at least at London speeds.

I had a replay uploaded for a run with BRZ at London Reverse in another thread :

I did three short run at London Reverse in practice mode, grip set to real, no ABS, all other aids off.

All cars fitted with comfort hard tires, all cars brand new, stock, no oil change and less than 50 miles on the odo. All cars driven with same BB : 9/6. The run is done for only 1 lap, no warm up, no restart.

Toyota 86 GT, 192hp 402pp
Time 1:10.103
The car has quite a loose rear, sharp steering, feels light and nimble, a bit edgy than the other 2 siblings.

Scion FR-S, 192hp 402pp
Time 1:10.836
The middle ground, stable, balanced handling, steering is comparable to 86 GT, but the rear is a bit less prone to break free.

Subaru BRZ S, 192hp 402pp
Time 1:10.963
The under dog I should say, it understeer at times, less sharp steering, a bit numb in the feedback from the rear although still can break free when given enough load. More predictable than Scion and 86 GT

Even when the stock suspension shows the same values, the handling is definitely not the same when driven, those grayed out numbers should never be used as reference, PD hides the true values applied to the car specific physics.

I have uploaded some replay for the 3 car in this post :

Replay files for 3 cars at London Reverse

If you have US version GT5 - BCUSxxxx, then you can import these replays, unzip to a flash drive, make a folder like so x:\PS3\SAVEDATA, put the replay folder inside savedata directory. Under XMB, copy the replays, it should come up as savedata. Launch GT5, under GT Life - replay theater - choose import, and done.

Watching the replay in game, I hoping you could get something out of it, good luck :)
 
Front lock or rear lock? If it's rear your turning too much while on the brakes, the GT86/FR-S/BRZ are all really twitchy and unstable when trail braking. 👍

Straight line braking slowing from low speeds under 60 mph. Didn't notice which end locked. Wouldn't think either one should with such low settings: 3/1, 2/1, 1/0.
 
ncrthree
Straight line braking slowing from low speeds under 60 mph. Didn't notice which end locked. Wouldn't think either one should with such low settings: 3/1, 2/1, 1/0.

The issue is locking without control, locking when applying full brake pressure is a good thing.
Have you tried applying full brake pressure at the very beginning to calibrate your brake pedal?
 
The issue is locking without control, locking when applying full brake pressure is a good thing.
Have you tried applying full brake pressure at the very beginning to calibrate your brake pedal?

Yes, I always do the initial calibration.

Just retried the BRZ on CH's that I'd taken issue with it's behavior. At 2/1 full brake force from 60 mph causes rear lock up. At 2/0 no lock up at all. So that's great. Happy now!:) CH's are probably close to it's real life tire, maybe CM's. I'll just keep in mind that the grippier the tire, the higher setting can be applied.

Thanks guys for the feedback. That's why I love this site so much.
 
Yes, I always do the initial calibration.

Just retried the BRZ on CH's that I'd taken issue with it's behavior. At 2/1 full brake force from 60 mph causes rear lock up. At 2/0 no lock up at all. So that's great. Happy now!:) CH's are probably close to it's real life tire, maybe CM's. I'll just keep in mind that the grippier the tire, the higher setting can be applied.

Thanks guys for the feedback. That's why I love this site so much.

Comfort Hard tires is the realistic tire for the trio Toyota GT86, FRS and BRZ. If you watch the video from PD on youtube about the datalogger visualization demo on Fuji Speedway, you can see the real life vs virtual car.

The GT86 uses comfort hard from the G meter and the cornering speed, and the GT5 car run without ABS + high BB value, how do I know this ? I always drive with high BB value and no ABS, the amount of brake force applied to reduce speed as can be seen from the red brake bar shows that high BB setting in game. This is due to the percentage filled were mostly below 70% on even the heaviest braking, similar to all my videos I have uploaded on my no ABS thread. This means that PD considers ABS aid as not in conformity with real life data and comfort hard is the closest tire to match real life performance for this car.



Watch till the end, awesome video. I wanted to replicate that driving on Fuji :)
 
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