Autocross/Track day talk - tires, cars, setup - Season has started
- Thread starter Azuremen
- 160 comments
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- 21,190
- United States
- nk4e
Look for a local SCCA around your area.
http://www.scca.org/members.aspx
or there is this
http://myautoevents.com/pls/mae/frmMain.Show
Though I think you do have to pass inspection first. So make sure that there isn't anything leaking.
- 3,603
Ran with the Porsche Club on Sunday...
Fairly fun course, despite the Talon being ill-suited to it. Still managed to embarass a number of flat sixes.
No results posted, so I'm not sure how I placed.
Running again with Victoria Motorsports on Saturday. I might submit a course design if they haven't already chosen one - It's been approved but I just haven't brought it onto the computer, yet.
I'm looking forward to it already...
Fairly fun course, despite the Talon being ill-suited to it. Still managed to embarass a number of flat sixes.
No results posted, so I'm not sure how I placed.
Running again with Victoria Motorsports on Saturday. I might submit a course design if they haven't already chosen one - It's been approved but I just haven't brought it onto the computer, yet.
I'm looking forward to it already...
- 23,800
- Philippines
Durh... I always assume Phil. means the other thing... It's Philly, not Phili, silly...
-
It's relatively easy to get into events. The whole problem is getting the car fit to go. Fresh oil, new radiator hoses, good brakes and good tires are a safe bet for beginners, but it gets pretty detailed... and expensive... as you get deeper in.
- 24,288
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
If you are under 18 you need to be fully licensed for unsupervised street driving during daylight hours. Also, you will need a waiver form signed by both of your parents or guardians. Some regions may require that form is notarized, but some do not.
I may hit an event in Philly this summer and if I do I would be glad to meet you there and show you the ropes. The place I just ran was in Glasgow, DE just off I-95 if you could get there.
- 17,865
- 509
Our clubs here just require one guardian to sign the waiver. And the car just needs to be in good order. By that, wheels won't fall off and the battery is strapped down and it is not leaking fluids. It can burn oil, have 17 shades of rust on it, and so on.
Keef
Premium
- 24,907
- Dayton, OH
- GTP_KeefRacer
- GTP Keef
Just make sure you take at least the driver's floormat up, and that box of tissues in the back seat. Whether your pedal(s) get stuck under the mat or you get clobbered by a flying tissue box, you'd be surprised what sort of disasters could come of it.
- 1,151
- AmuseR1
Haha @ Keef, thanks for the tips 
I emaild my local club that who ever gave me a link to, and im awaiting a reply. And Duke! I'd love that, it'd really help me out. When is the event?
My cars in great order, quite abit of miles but runs great. I change my oil more then enough and do ruitine matin. all the time for its my first car and im in love. Is their like, a stock car class?
I emaild my local club that who ever gave me a link to, and im awaiting a reply. And Duke! I'd love that, it'd really help me out. When is the event?
My cars in great order, quite abit of miles but runs great. I change my oil more then enough and do ruitine matin. all the time for its my first car and im in love. Is their like, a stock car class?
- 3,603
Here are the things I check for when doing tech for my local club:
-Leaking fluids. If I see puddles under the car, it's probably an automatic fail (If it's not water, that is).
-Secure battery that won't move when grabbed/shaken. The positive terminal, at least, must be insulated.
-The throttle return spring does its' job.
-Check brake fluid resevoir level.
-No obvious damage or things wrong in the engine bay.
-Wheels/bearings are tight and free of excess play. I always ask if the lugs have been torqued, and if it's anything other than 'last night', I'll ask them to find a torque wrench.
-Steering is free of excess slop and feels like it may be connected to something.
-Brake pedal is firm or something resembling firm, and returns when your foot's off it.
-Seatbelts are in decent condition.
-All items are cleared from the passenger compartment, including floormats.
-Helmet is of the appropriate rating (Snell S or M 2000/2005 for our club)
You'll want to make sure you've got plenty of air in your tires (12 psi per thousand pounds of car is a good starting point). Half to three-quarters of a tank of gas. Some food/drink. Dress for the weather, and bring some clothes for when it changes. Make sure your car's various service items are good (oil, coolant, brake fluid, PS fluid, etc). Torque your wheels before you go (in the ever important star pattern). Take anything you don't need out of the car before you leave for the track. Bring a pen. And a tire pressure guage. And a temp gun, if you like. Bring your helmet, of course, and cash for the entry fees.
And have fun!
-Leaking fluids. If I see puddles under the car, it's probably an automatic fail (If it's not water, that is).
-Secure battery that won't move when grabbed/shaken. The positive terminal, at least, must be insulated.
-The throttle return spring does its' job.
-Check brake fluid resevoir level.
-No obvious damage or things wrong in the engine bay.
-Wheels/bearings are tight and free of excess play. I always ask if the lugs have been torqued, and if it's anything other than 'last night', I'll ask them to find a torque wrench.
-Steering is free of excess slop and feels like it may be connected to something.
-Brake pedal is firm or something resembling firm, and returns when your foot's off it.
-Seatbelts are in decent condition.
-All items are cleared from the passenger compartment, including floormats.
-Helmet is of the appropriate rating (Snell S or M 2000/2005 for our club)
You'll want to make sure you've got plenty of air in your tires (12 psi per thousand pounds of car is a good starting point). Half to three-quarters of a tank of gas. Some food/drink. Dress for the weather, and bring some clothes for when it changes. Make sure your car's various service items are good (oil, coolant, brake fluid, PS fluid, etc). Torque your wheels before you go (in the ever important star pattern). Take anything you don't need out of the car before you leave for the track. Bring a pen. And a tire pressure guage. And a temp gun, if you like. Bring your helmet, of course, and cash for the entry fees.
And have fun!
- 17,865
- 509
Well your tech is spot on (I'd give you grief if you demanded I find a torque wrench though
) your tire pressure is... odd. On "normal" all season or even sport tires, I'd run easily up to 38 psi in the Spyder. Otherwise I've found the sidewalls roll excessively and massive damage happens to the should block of the tire. For more aggressive tires with stiffer sidewalls, such as Azenis or XS, I'd still run mid to high 20's at least, though my best runs at the last event were near 38 psi. In my 2200 pound MR-S.
Also, a suggestion to a novice - if your car is prone to understeer I'd suggest putting the rear tires to a higher pressure. It is surprising how much the feel of the car can be changed by a few psi difference between front and rear.
- 17,865
- 509
Well I really have no clue if Im prone to understeer as I've never expirenced it yet, Just havnt taken a chance on street roads yet. But im sure it couldnt hurt, i drive an FR
Last I checked, I you had an Integra. Which is an FF, not an FR. The only FR car I can think of Honda building in the last two decades is the S2000.
That aside, I'd recommend running around 38 front and 42 rear for tire pressures at first, and then bleeding air as you check tire roll. Chalk is handy for that.
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
Integras are FR?
- 3,603
Well your tech is spot on (I'd give you grief if you demanded I find a torque wrench though
On "normal" all season or even sport tires, I'd run easily up to 38 psi in the Spyder. Otherwise I've found the sidewalls roll excessively and massive damage happens to the should block of the tire. For more aggressive tires with stiffer sidewalls, such as Azenis or XS, I'd still run mid to high 20's at least, though my best runs at the last event were near 38 psi. In my 2200 pound MR-S.
Also, a suggestion to a novice - if your car is prone to understeer I'd suggest putting the rear tires to a higher pressure. It is surprising how much the feel of the car can be changed by a few psi difference between front and rear.
I've been told that it's a starting point for most cars, although I've never run anything that low (would be 35psi by that formula for me). On the Azenis I typically run 39-41 rear, and 37-40 front. I've found that I can tune how the car rotates by adding or subtracting fuel and the spare tire. 1/2 tank and no spare is what I currently like.
When I was on the old all seasons (Goodyear Eagles) I was running 43-46 psi to try and keep some stiffness in the tire. I've found that the Ziex 912's can be run a bit lower - Around 40, give or take a couple. Despite still being a softer sidewall than the Azenis, they definitely are a half-decent all-season.
- 1,151
- AmuseR1
Nope, but I wish they were, they'd look great sideways
kinda like an older Rx7! The FR statement was a misprint, i ment FF, but mistyped for some reason
Im not that bad with cars...
- 24,288
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
There is a Philly Region SCCA event at Citizens Bank Park on 11 October that I would like to attend but may not get a chance to. Philly has a big turnout (80-90 cars) and you may only get 3-4 runs for a long day (like 8am through to 6pm). They have other events earlier in the summer but Warminster is a little too far away and the Boeing lot is kind of small. But the Stadium has a huge lot and I'd love to do some higher-speed stuff.
The next event for my local club is on 22 August (I think) in Glasgow, Delaware, and unless something happens I will definitely attend that. The site is about 15 minutes south of the PA/DE line, and not far off I-95. It is a much much smaller lot, but typically we only have 25-40 cars show up, so last time I was only there from 9:30 to 3:30 or so but I got 6 runs in. Plus, the lot is so small that we typically run 3 laps around the course, so that ended up being like 18 individual passes through the course for good practice.
PM me if you are interested in attending either of these and we can meet up.
Autocross is very much a "run what ya brung" sport until you decide to get seriously competitive at it. You saw above what they are looking for in tech inspection. A stock Integra in decent condition should be a very good platform to teach you what conekilling is all about.
Cars are definitely classed by performance and degree of modification. There is also a Novice class for beginners in many regions, no matter what your car is.
With my E46, until I add some swaybar at least, I strip every last thing out of the trunk, run less than a quarter tank, and put about +4 psi in the rears over the fronts (40/44 on RE-01Rs).
Keef
Premium
- 24,907
- Dayton, OH
- GTP_KeefRacer
- GTP Keef
I've got my car cleaned out and my tools ready, my camera(s) charged and full of memory, and now I just need to prepare a cooler full of goodies. Tomorrow morning I'll check my tire pressures, re-torque the lugs, throw the cooler in the trunk and be off.
Depending on how many cars show up I'm looking forward to at least 10 practice laps, and a final timed 3-lap run at the end of the day.
G&J Kartway out near Camden is tight as it's a kart track, and the home of the Ohio Valley Karting Association. The turns are about as tight as a typical autocross, but the two straights allow some 3rd gear time for me. I do prefer the boundaries of the track which let you study the track more easily than a coned autocross course, and it's easier to place your car because the boundaries are very clear. Plus, it flows quite nicely. The green line is our course:
Depending on how many cars show up I'm looking forward to at least 10 practice laps, and a final timed 3-lap run at the end of the day.
G&J Kartway out near Camden is tight as it's a kart track, and the home of the Ohio Valley Karting Association. The turns are about as tight as a typical autocross, but the two straights allow some 3rd gear time for me. I do prefer the boundaries of the track which let you study the track more easily than a coned autocross course, and it's easier to place your car because the boundaries are very clear. Plus, it flows quite nicely. The green line is our course:
- 3,603
I've run a bunch of events lately...
Three in July, and three in August.
One of those was a regional, I think I placed half decently - 10th by PAX, 18th by raw time.
I successfully designed and ran a layout for the Victoria Motorsports Club in July, that garnered many positive words. I may try another for September.
But, the main reason for posting is that I tried something entirely new today.
Rallycross.
Race Report:
Aug. 30/09
Island Rallysport Edge of the Rock Rallycross #1
Parksville, BC
This was on property owned by Leemar Manufacturing in Parksville. We utilised a (approx) 1 mile dirt oval with with several crossroads and intersections in the middle.
Our host was very generous -They graded the track a few days before the event, did some spot rolling and levelling during our lunch break, watered the track, and opened a concession for our small group of about 10 drivers. They were kind enough to to all of this for free.
It was a bit warm for racing, but a bit of breeze helped cool people off and cleared the (massive amounts of) dust off the track. We started the morning with a really fun layout about 1500m in length, and did an afternoon layout that had a different start, but was otherwise unchanged. This let the rookies like myself - First time Rallycrossing, for me - focus on driving more than learning two different courses. There were a number of tight hairpins, and some fast sweepers and a straight stretch leading to the finish - Low and high speed sections offered great variety in the course.
The track wasn't too rough - Some fist sized stones could be found if you looked, but finer gravel and some sand composed the majority of the track. There was one place on the first layout that had a bit of a berm in a corner that a couple competitors nudged their bumpers on, but the 4x4 cleared it without issue. I didn't bottom out (to my knowledge) at all, either.
I met a fellow DSM'er and his 1Ga at the track, and he whumped my ass in competition thanks to gravel experience and what seemed like a pretty well sorted car.
Overall, I had a great day with no major damage to the car (The glass in my drivers side mirror popped out. I have a bit of an exhaust rattle, but I think a hanger was shaken loose- I moved it a bit and it's okay now. My stereo faceplate and rearview mirror both found themselves in my lap over the course of a single run, but that's due to a lack of foresight on my part...).
I think I may have to do this again...
Three in July, and three in August.
One of those was a regional, I think I placed half decently - 10th by PAX, 18th by raw time.
I successfully designed and ran a layout for the Victoria Motorsports Club in July, that garnered many positive words. I may try another for September.
But, the main reason for posting is that I tried something entirely new today.
Rallycross.
Race Report:
Aug. 30/09
Island Rallysport Edge of the Rock Rallycross #1
Parksville, BC
This was on property owned by Leemar Manufacturing in Parksville. We utilised a (approx) 1 mile dirt oval with with several crossroads and intersections in the middle.
Our host was very generous -They graded the track a few days before the event, did some spot rolling and levelling during our lunch break, watered the track, and opened a concession for our small group of about 10 drivers. They were kind enough to to all of this for free.
It was a bit warm for racing, but a bit of breeze helped cool people off and cleared the (massive amounts of) dust off the track. We started the morning with a really fun layout about 1500m in length, and did an afternoon layout that had a different start, but was otherwise unchanged. This let the rookies like myself - First time Rallycrossing, for me - focus on driving more than learning two different courses. There were a number of tight hairpins, and some fast sweepers and a straight stretch leading to the finish - Low and high speed sections offered great variety in the course.
The track wasn't too rough - Some fist sized stones could be found if you looked, but finer gravel and some sand composed the majority of the track. There was one place on the first layout that had a bit of a berm in a corner that a couple competitors nudged their bumpers on, but the 4x4 cleared it without issue. I didn't bottom out (to my knowledge) at all, either.
I met a fellow DSM'er and his 1Ga at the track, and he whumped my ass in competition thanks to gravel experience and what seemed like a pretty well sorted car.
Overall, I had a great day with no major damage to the car (The glass in my drivers side mirror popped out. I have a bit of an exhaust rattle, but I think a hanger was shaken loose- I moved it a bit and it's okay now. My stereo faceplate and rearview mirror both found themselves in my lap over the course of a single run, but that's due to a lack of foresight on my part...).
I think I may have to do this again...
Last edited:
- 3,603
I've only done two more events lately...
One autocross with the MG Club of Victoria.
It was the fastest course I've seen from them all year, and great fun with a smooooth flow to it. Turnout was above average for the club, at about 40 entrants.
Lots of cone that day, though - I think I only got two or three of my six runs clean.
I placed 8th in class (their classes being essentially MG and Non MG), about 5.8 seconds back from FTD.
The other event was another rallycross.
Again with the same club, the second event of the series, at the same location.
It was a much tighter course than the first event, all first and second gear. As with the first event, they changed the course between the morning and afternoon sessions. This time it was a complete reversal. Turnout was a bit higher - 14 entries over the 10 from last time.
Beautiful weather, not too hot, with some recent rains that kept dust down a bit through the day.
Overall I had a good day, but not without a few issues including
-Bumper met a berm, a few scrapes of paint disappeared.
-Oil pressure guage sender plug got knocked off, which was worrying when I looked down and saw NO pressure! The pressure light hadn't lit, however.
-Got lost once on course during the first reversed run.
-Blew a tire on run 6. Tore the bead off of it, plus I thingk something's stuck in the bead, it won't reinflate at all. This was a day-ender. I chose to sit out my last two runs as I did have to change all four tires (size discrepancy) and then didn't want to mess up my 'pretty' spares over the course of three minutes.
This will be my last rallycross for a little while - The series has one more event in October, plus the possibility of running all winter. However, the car will be a bit lower to the ground in the near future, and possibly sporting some glossy fresh paint over the front end that I'd be a bit hesitant to abuse for a while.
I'm at 1:10 in...
Only five more events till the end of the season, guess I should make the most of it!
One autocross with the MG Club of Victoria.
It was the fastest course I've seen from them all year, and great fun with a smooooth flow to it. Turnout was above average for the club, at about 40 entrants.
Lots of cone that day, though - I think I only got two or three of my six runs clean.
I placed 8th in class (their classes being essentially MG and Non MG), about 5.8 seconds back from FTD.
The other event was another rallycross.
Again with the same club, the second event of the series, at the same location.
It was a much tighter course than the first event, all first and second gear. As with the first event, they changed the course between the morning and afternoon sessions. This time it was a complete reversal. Turnout was a bit higher - 14 entries over the 10 from last time.
Beautiful weather, not too hot, with some recent rains that kept dust down a bit through the day.
Overall I had a good day, but not without a few issues including
-Bumper met a berm, a few scrapes of paint disappeared.
-Oil pressure guage sender plug got knocked off, which was worrying when I looked down and saw NO pressure! The pressure light hadn't lit, however.
-Got lost once on course during the first reversed run.
-Blew a tire on run 6. Tore the bead off of it, plus I thingk something's stuck in the bead, it won't reinflate at all. This was a day-ender. I chose to sit out my last two runs as I did have to change all four tires (size discrepancy) and then didn't want to mess up my 'pretty' spares over the course of three minutes.
This will be my last rallycross for a little while - The series has one more event in October, plus the possibility of running all winter. However, the car will be a bit lower to the ground in the near future, and possibly sporting some glossy fresh paint over the front end that I'd be a bit hesitant to abuse for a while.
I'm at 1:10 in...
Only five more events till the end of the season, guess I should make the most of it!
- 3,603
...Triple Post?
Jan 24/2010.
First race of the year.
It's been about three months since I've been on a closed course. I've been missing it.
I was able to shake the rust off today quite quickly and get on with the event.
Due to a recent clutch change (& not-yet-complete break-in) on the Talon, I decided to leave it on the sidelines. A friend offered a co-drive of his Focus ZX3. Mostly stock - OZ wheels and Azenis, shock & spring combo, F&R strut braces.
I was surprised at how much fun the car was to drive - Surprisingly neutral, very loose and tail happy. A slight lack of power meant that you had to be smooooth, and left-foot braking helped keep the rear end in check through the corners. I managed to spin once, but only took out a line of cones... No concrete wall scuffs.
Group 1 had the distinct advantage of getting four dry runs in the morning before the skies opened during the first run of Group 2. I was in the latter group.
Nevertheless, I was able to get my first run of the day in dry and clean - I managed a 66.5xx second run, about a half second off of the car owner. Times generally worsened through the next three runs as I tried to figure out how to make the car stick in the rain. The second set of runs saw a more even playing field, with a wet track for all. I kept the runs clean and came reasonably close to my dry time, ending up with a fast wet time in the 67.8xx range. I ended up getting the car owner by ~1.5 sec. in the wet conditions.
FTD was a Talon, down in the 58 second range dry and 62 range wet.
Surely I'm not the only one on here who's on the track during the winter?
Jan 24/2010.
First race of the year.
It's been about three months since I've been on a closed course. I've been missing it.
I was able to shake the rust off today quite quickly and get on with the event.
Due to a recent clutch change (& not-yet-complete break-in) on the Talon, I decided to leave it on the sidelines. A friend offered a co-drive of his Focus ZX3. Mostly stock - OZ wheels and Azenis, shock & spring combo, F&R strut braces.
I was surprised at how much fun the car was to drive - Surprisingly neutral, very loose and tail happy. A slight lack of power meant that you had to be smooooth, and left-foot braking helped keep the rear end in check through the corners. I managed to spin once, but only took out a line of cones... No concrete wall scuffs.
Group 1 had the distinct advantage of getting four dry runs in the morning before the skies opened during the first run of Group 2. I was in the latter group.
Nevertheless, I was able to get my first run of the day in dry and clean - I managed a 66.5xx second run, about a half second off of the car owner. Times generally worsened through the next three runs as I tried to figure out how to make the car stick in the rain. The second set of runs saw a more even playing field, with a wet track for all. I kept the runs clean and came reasonably close to my dry time, ending up with a fast wet time in the 67.8xx range. I ended up getting the car owner by ~1.5 sec. in the wet conditions.
FTD was a Talon, down in the 58 second range dry and 62 range wet.
Surely I'm not the only one on here who's on the track during the winter?
- 9,089
- Scotland
- 3,603
I have a question for those with opinions to share.
I need new summer tires this year. The Azenis are both bald and heat cycled out.
The most likely choices are Bridgestone RE-11, and Dunlop Direzza Star Spec. 225/50-16"
However.
I have learned of a set of Yokohama A048s locally, that a tire dealer has been stuck with. They're selling them at wholesale, for about the same price per tire as the street tires I'm considering.
The only problem is that they're 205/55-16 rather than 225/50-16.
Is the performance of the R-comp enough to offset the size defecit?
I welcome your thoughts.
I need new summer tires this year. The Azenis are both bald and heat cycled out.
The most likely choices are Bridgestone RE-11, and Dunlop Direzza Star Spec. 225/50-16"
However.
I have learned of a set of Yokohama A048s locally, that a tire dealer has been stuck with. They're selling them at wholesale, for about the same price per tire as the street tires I'm considering.
The only problem is that they're 205/55-16 rather than 225/50-16.
Is the performance of the R-comp enough to offset the size defecit?
I welcome your thoughts.
- 23,800
- Philippines
Should be. According to the tire calculator, your sidewall height should be almost identical (given that sidewall heights tend to vary between brands and models, even for tires with the same measurements).
I don't know how they'd compare to the Azenis sidewalls (you had the RT615s?) but those Advan sidewalls are plenty stiff, so they should be pretty squirm resistant, too.
If you're getting them wholesale, I'd say buy, buy buy. But best to set them aside for a (non)rainy day as an extra set of tires... they're too precious to use daily.
I don't know how they'd compare to the Azenis sidewalls (you had the RT615s?) but those Advan sidewalls are plenty stiff, so they should be pretty squirm resistant, too.
If you're getting them wholesale, I'd say buy, buy buy. But best to set them aside for a (non)rainy day as an extra set of tires... they're too precious to use daily.
- 24,288
- Midlantic Area
- GTP_Duke
The answer is not just yes but hell yes.
Depending on the width of your wheel you'll probably get a nice crisper turn-in due to the (slight) lip stretch firming up the sidewall, and the extra grip will more than make up for the ~3/4" loss of section width. I'd jump on those in a heartbeat unless you're trying to stay in one of the lower ST classes and will be radically over your head in a class that allows R-comps.
Oh, and yeah, that's assuming you have dedicated event wheels to mount them on. If you street them, not only will they wear out quickly and get tough due to heat cycles, they will grit blast your rockers with road cinders.
- 3,603
I've been looking on the Tire Rack at specs concerning both the RE-11 and the A048.
The section width is 2 cm narrower on the Yoko, but the tread width is 1mm less!
So despite being a narrower tire, the Yoko basically manages to put the same amount of rubber in contact with the pavement.
This about makes my decision -
These will be mounted on my 2nd set of wheels, only 6.5" wide. However, it's about right for a 205mm wide tire.
I suspect that I'll be leaving them on the car for the summer, as I'm autocrossing almost every weekend for a few months per year. I know they'll wear fast - I'd expect one full season out of them and that's about it. I can ride the bike a bit more to help offset wear.
I'm classed in ESP right now... Almost anything goes. And I've got big mudflaps on the car... no gravel rash for me!
I've said time and time again, "I don't want to switch to R-Comps because I don't want to change tires every weekend!"
I guess I'll try it this summer and see...
The section width is 2 cm narrower on the Yoko, but the tread width is 1mm less!
So despite being a narrower tire, the Yoko basically manages to put the same amount of rubber in contact with the pavement.
This about makes my decision -
These will be mounted on my 2nd set of wheels, only 6.5" wide. However, it's about right for a 205mm wide tire.
I suspect that I'll be leaving them on the car for the summer, as I'm autocrossing almost every weekend for a few months per year. I know they'll wear fast - I'd expect one full season out of them and that's about it. I can ride the bike a bit more to help offset wear.
I'm classed in ESP right now... Almost anything goes. And I've got big mudflaps on the car... no gravel rash for me!
I've said time and time again, "I don't want to switch to R-Comps because I don't want to change tires every weekend!"
I guess I'll try it this summer and see...
- 3,603
Alright, now I'm in a conundrum.
I went to the tire shop today... Turns out they're Yoko A032, the predecessor to the A048.
Manufacture date is January 08.
I can't find any worthwhile quantitative information on it, although It's obvious that the tire design is at least five or six years old.
Has anyone got experience with this tire? Any good?
More importantly, will it have gone hard in the two years it's been sitting?
I'm thinking I might have to find something else... Although I am still harboring the thought that if I can get them cheap enough (Asking $195 each, mounted and balanced... I'm thinking they're worth $150, tops, if they're still good).
I went to the tire shop today... Turns out they're Yoko A032, the predecessor to the A048.
Manufacture date is January 08.
I can't find any worthwhile quantitative information on it, although It's obvious that the tire design is at least five or six years old.
Has anyone got experience with this tire? Any good?
More importantly, will it have gone hard in the two years it's been sitting?
I'm thinking I might have to find something else... Although I am still harboring the thought that if I can get them cheap enough (Asking $195 each, mounted and balanced... I'm thinking they're worth $150, tops, if they're still good).
