Camber

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I'd like to point out that while the GTP crowd is trying to smoke the proof camber works correctly in GT6.

I have proved it.

It was said to prove it I needed to produce a car that the camber would make faster and better driving. I've done so,

While those upset will try to add the wheel angles off the DEMO car to their set up and say it's slower, they miss the point. The setting given were for the DEMO CAR and it has stock ride height and springs, those wheel angles tuned to that.

The TEST is

Drive DEMO CAR no angles, un-drivable oversteer

Add wheel angle to DEMO CAR and the oversteer is changed to controllable understeer...

Not a tuned car at all, it's demonstrating wheel angles doing what they should.

Do some corner speed test with the DEMO CAR not your tune D-A

lol you don't understand stock Ride Height and Stock springs??

You can't even perform a simple test yet think you have figured out camber is broken??? What?!? Where have you shown anything but crap that can be chalked up to setting of all other car settings and driver.... Not one shrewd of proof, just BS theories that don't make sense and don't Cary any weight.

Even if you top a time I post, that means squat. It's still faster then many in the same cars driving with zero camb. If the camber hurt me so much I would not even get close to as fast as I am, but this all has no real relevance aside from pointing out to you and all that your point is moot.... Top my time? Big Hairy Deal, you have clearly more free time... Point being Im NOT Slower then anybody driving camber zero...

Next picture of the wheel up YB, this pic CLEARLY SHOWS me riding a front camber angle OVER 6 (near 7) degrees, if camber was really acting like positive camber, with that lean, and near 7 degrees camber, IF that camber were visually negative but broken acting positive, the car would be rolling over instead of riding the angle.. Think about that near 14 degrees pos camber from position in the pic your theory suggest, I'd be rolling on the lip of the rim rolling over, but noooooooo, rides the camber just like IRL D-A's look just like some IRL pics posted eh...

Oh and if adding minuscule amounts of camb duh should help any car as some would like to point out, what's broken??? Would that not suggest it works as should??? lol you seem not to even realize when the crap you guys post supports the apposing side, you guys just copy past before even getting through the article your stealing opinions from, and it's interpretations you post...


What is clear is GTP refuses to acknowledge any of the facts proving the consensus wrong don't even have the stones to address them directly can't dispute the evidence disproving how they theorize it's broke, and they have yet to put up any facts at all let alone prove the consensus...

One of you even says camber is in positive value as a fact because it's not marked negative, he must be confused by "Camber(-)" so the "facts" posted by you guys are not FACTS at all, it's a joke...

I'm like Mike Tyson in the early 90's fighting Mike Tyson 2014, not a fair fight. It's a group of you Trolls agains lil-O-me, even still, 10second Knock-out

I see more proving camber works, I don't see ANYTHING proving it's broken.....

Time for the Trolls pointing calling the kettle black to Troll up the thread & bury the facts in BS......

Joker Laughs

:lol:

Joker by name, Joker by nature ;)

All you have done with the Yellowbird is remove front end grip to make the rear end instability manageable for you.

This is NOT optimising the car as you have REDUCED the total amount of grip the car has.

An optimised tune would maintain the front end grip, and find a way to fix the rear end instability... INCREASING the total amount of grip the car has.

This is getting funnier.
 
Jack danced with the devil once too often.

Web forums are new to me but...I think I know what this means....

imagesCAD9ONIV.jpg
 
I'd like to point out that while the GTP crowd is trying to smoke the proof camber works correctly in GT6.

I have proved it.

It was said to prove it I needed to produce a car that the camber would make faster and better driving. I've done so,

While those upset will try to add the wheel angles off the DEMO car to their set up and say it's slower, they miss the point. The setting given were for the DEMO CAR and it has stock ride height and springs, those wheel angles tuned to that.

The TEST is

Drive DEMO CAR no angles, un-drivable oversteer

Add wheel angle to DEMO CAR and the oversteer is changed to controllable understeer...

Not a tuned car at all, it's demonstrating wheel angles doing what they should.

Do some corner speed test with the DEMO CAR not your tune D-A

lol you don't understand stock Ride Height and Stock springs??

You can't even perform a simple test yet think you have figured out camber is broken??? What?!? Where have you shown anything but crap that can be chalked up to setting of all other car settings and driver.... Not one shrewd of proof, just BS theories that don't make sense and don't Cary any weight.

Even if you top a time I post, that means squat. It's still faster then many in the same cars driving with zero camb. If the camber hurt me so much I would not even get close to as fast as I am, but this all has no real relevance aside from pointing out to you and all that your point is moot.... Top my time? Big Hairy Deal, you have clearly more free time... Point being Im NOT Slower then anybody driving camber zero...

Next picture of the wheel up YB, this pic CLEARLY SHOWS me riding a front camber angle OVER 6 (near 7) degrees, if camber was really acting like positive camber, with that lean, and near 7 degrees camber, IF that camber were visually negative but broken acting positive, the car would be rolling over instead of riding the angle.. Think about that near 14 degrees pos camber from position in the pic your theory suggest, I'd be rolling on the lip of the rim rolling over, but noooooooo, rides the camber just like IRL D-A's look just like some IRL pics posted eh...

Oh and if adding minuscule amounts of camb duh should help any car as some would like to point out, what's broken??? Would that not suggest it works as should??? lol you seem not to even realize when the crap you guys post supports the apposing side, you guys just copy past before even getting through the article your stealing opinions from, and it's interpretations you post...


What is clear is GTP refuses to acknowledge any of the facts proving the consensus wrong don't even have the stones to address them directly can't dispute the evidence disproving how they theorize it's broke, and they have yet to put up any facts at all let alone prove the consensus...

One of you even says camber is in positive value as a fact because it's not marked negative, he must be confused by "Camber(-)" so the "facts" posted by you guys are not FACTS at all, it's a joke...

I'm like Mike Tyson in the early 90's fighting Mike Tyson 2014, not a fair fight. It's a group of you Trolls agains lil-O-me, even still, 10second Knock-out

I see more proving camber works, I don't see ANYTHING proving it's broken.....

Time for the Trolls pointing calling the kettle black to Troll up the thread & bury the facts in BS......

Joker Laughs

He had a unique ability to make very long winded posts about not a lot.
 
The ironic thing is, I could see where he might have been vaguely correct on some of his ridiculous theories (might being the operative term here, and I use the term "correct" quite loosely...) However, when you personally attack forum members and speak with such a condescending attitude, nobody will take you seriously. Couple that with the inability to string together a coherent sentence... no wonder he wore out his welcome. I've been part of some forums where this behavior is rampant, so I'm extra thrilled to see the Moderators step up with such expediency and unbiased action against bad behavior.
Seriously Mods, thanks for keeping things under control. :gtpflag:

Anyhoo, back to the topic: I was reading that ride height is reversed as well? I haven't noticed any detrimental effects personally, but I'm wondering if camber behaves the same at all ride heights? Could cars with different types of suspension designs really have been modeled so correctly that different ride heights affect the camber? It was mentioned in this post, but is it possible it exists on the proper cars in-game?

I haven't been able to test this myself; I'm in the process of modifying my rig yet again to accommodate the new G27 that arrived today :D
 
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:odd::eek::eek: << +0.53 Toe for more rotation?

You didn't say what car, track, tires or power you used.
I've already stated which car it was in a earlier post but I'll type it once again. BRZ GT300 race car with stock power, "I don't add power parts to my race cars nor do I use the power limiter with any of my cars" and hard tires. I'm a little puzzled to see you puzzled @Johnnypenso about my setting. Have you bothered to view the replays to see how the cars performed. It take more than the rear toe for the car to rotate correctly and fast through the turns at an stable rate.

No that I'm awake and eager to see if I can get faster times buy retesting the setting from each run. I'll post when I'm done.
 
I've already stated which car it was in a earlier post but I'll type it once again. BRZ GT300 race car with stock power, "I don't add power parts to my race cars nor do I use the power limiter with any of my cars" and hard tires. I'm a little puzzled to see you puzzled @Johnnypenso about my setting. Have you bothered to view the replays to see how the cars performed. It take more than the rear toe for the car to rotate correctly and fast through the turns at an stable rate.

No that I'm awake and eager to see if I can get faster times buy retesting the setting from each run. I'll post when I'm done.
Maybe its just me but I would think it would make more sense to put all your particulars in one post instead of spreading them out around the thread so we don't have to hunt them down. Btw, you do realize the 0.65 rear to works againt rotation not for it right?
 
Ding dong the witch is dead, the wicked witch is dead.




Now maybe I can get back to reading more intelligent conversation. :)
 
Maybe its just me but I would think it would make more sense to put all your particulars in one post instead of spreading them out around the thread so we don't have to hunt them down. Btw, you do realize the 0.65 rear to works againt rotation not for it right?
You really need to review the replays

Yes I know how far to go with toe. Finished making some runs and I was was disappointed, very disappointed with the results of lowering the toe for Silver Stone. Buy lowering the toe the car slowed through the turns and I was unable to get on throttle as I like coming out of the apex at low speed to medium speeds. First run I lowered the toe (Front -0.13; Rear 0.21) and I slowed to a 2:09.027, which was a lost of 0.792 seconds from last night final run. The second I raised the toe to (Front -0.18; Rear 0.27) and I slightly improved to a 2:08.831. The third tun I reset to last night set and I improved my time from 2:08.235 to a 2:08.137 which is not a lot though I slight improvement. Final run for the moment I raised the shock pressure and improved to a 2:07.943.

It may be possible to get the car in the the high or mid 2:06 with some more work.
 
I was going to reply Jack but I see he isn't among us anymore, well this is part of the text I was going to post, still usable IMO.
It's actually pretty unwise and completely wrong to think just because the outside wheels are doing more work the inside wheels are not important... Probably the most incorrect thing posted in this thread by far.....
Probably the most incorrect thing posted in this thread by far is to think inside wheels are important, the more negative camber you apply the less grip have the inside wheel and the more grip have the outside wheel IRL, in Earth, in Moon and even in Mars.

One thing is right in the camber car settings, they are displayed only with positive values in the menu, the more camber you add there the more positive camber you have in the wheels, the wrong thing is that there should be the option of negative values and it isn't there so far, in a 99% of cases is more useful to have negative camber and PD is not offering this, PD are masters in making things broken and backwards.

If you find a low camber value like 0.1 or 0.2 works in some curves is precisely because this positive value works (until a point) with the interior wheels as they have a little bit more grip there, this can be useful in very few curves but in the rest of them this won't be any good, camber at 0.0/0.0 so far is what provides more grip overall in almost any condition in GT6, for the outside and inside wheels.

Some people are talking about sidewall flex, do you really think PD has taken this into account when they don't know even where's the front and the rear regarding ride height? come on, get real.
 
Anyone know what happens to real car with 6 to 10 degrees positive camber ? then try that in GT6, I'm interested to hear the expert opinion on this :)
 
Not an expert by any means but I think it would be pretty dire to drive with lots of force on the outside edge and sidewall. I think some off-road vehicles use positive camber though, something to do with the steering effort being reduced and it being easier to keep tyres on the ground, I think.
 
Not an expert by any means but I think it would be pretty dire to drive with lots of force on the outside edge and sidewall. I think some off-road vehicles use positive camber though, something to do with the steering effort being reduced and it being easier to keep tyres on the ground, I think.

I'm completely guessing here, but I would say maybe because of all the bumps and uneven surface they could be pushing the wheels into a normal camber angle, so positive may counteract this.
 
You're are correct @Matt368, of road buggies, trucks, truggies and some other off road race vechicals do carry positive camber to help them bite into the ground.
 
I'm finding the camber to work very well in GT6 now, not as good as GT5 "due to the improper tire modeling". All of my test have been on hard tire only and will continue unless I get funky do to so, in all the camber does work. If I happen to notice wall flex I'll share my findings.
 
I'm finding the camber to work very well in GT6 now, not as good as GT5 "due to the improper tire modeling". All of my test have been on hard tire only and will continue unless I get funky do to so, in all the camber does work. If I happen to notice wall flex I'll share my findings.
Ok. I am not disagreeing, but some specifics would be great. I know you have provided some test results and explained experiences, but these have been kind'a lost in the distractions on previous pages. Perhaps you can summarise somehow.
My own experience for the moment has been pretty inconclusive really, probably because I have been tuning to get around using camber and using tunes with 0/0.
Now that I read what you have written here I simply slapped some "best guess" camber (1.0/0.5) on my current Toyota 86GT'12 tune and was quite surprised to be on pace straight away.
Edit:
Forgot to ask - what do you mean by "camber works now"?
 
Without going into great detail @HOOT44 the testing I’ve done so far with camber has shown it does operate properly for the cars I’ve tested thus far. I’ve been mainly testing race cars and some heavy sport cars or touring cars on racing hard ties only to get a better feel through the wheel of what the car is doing and I’m very pleased with some of the cars I’ve tested. I’m find camber at speed and low speed to keep the car very stable though the turns as long the car is set up correctly or to driving style. I know people are doing some strange thing to get the cars around the track but some may be losing a great deal of time just from going through the turns at an unstable rate. Running flat camber may get you down the straight faster but going through a turn you’re losing so much time.

I’ve found that I’ve been faster in some case up to a half a second with a stock powered race car is some sections of the track due to camber alone. The camber is allowing me to have the car to follow through the turns ten to thirty or more mph higher in speed, pend on how the car is rotating throughout the turns over the course of the track. Camber as it should is allowing the car to be more stable through the turns at speed if the car is set correctly or close to the track as possible. Pending on the track and what options you can have with the track the following must be taken and I’ve stated this time and time again but those have yet to understand. 1. Track temperature has a great effect on camber; 2. Track surface, including on and off camber sections; 3. Tire type and compound affects camber, 4. Weight of the car; drivetrain affects the camber of the car, adding weight or move the weight it affect the camber.

There are so many aspect that effect camber that I would like to go into but I’m not due to I must get back to my studies and plus there is there internet. It should suffice enough to give you the information that you’re looking for.
 
OK, I’m sleepy. Here are the replays that you asked for @Lewis_Hamilton_ ,a total of four tests done but only there were saved. I would go into detail about how the car changed with it change but I not due to I’m done and I got to be at work at 6:30am. I’ll make the run again tomorrow, I’ll just share the sets with the camber, toe changes with times. Down force setting are 225 Front; 454 Rear and on hard tires. On some run I could have gone faster if I was more alert.

Session 4

2:08.235

Ride Height; 58/59

Spring Rate; 17.15/15.93

Damper Compression; 7/6

Damper Extension; 5/6

Roll Bar; 4/4

Camber; 3.1/2.2

Toe; -0.36/0.53


I cannot agree with you that this is an example of camber working. I just ran this back to back with a 0.0/0.0 camber setting, all else remaining identical, at Silverstone. (Using the BRZ GT300, stock power, no oil change, RH tires as you did.)

1.2 seconds FASTER with 0.0/0.0 camber when compared to your settings and the car felt much "sharper" overall with 0.0/0.0 camber compared to your camber settings. This was just a "hop in and go" time, not a full-on hot lap either.

With your camber settings the car felt like the front wheels were doing a lot of lateral slipping during corners and I had to use a lot more steering angle to get the car to turn. With 0.0/0.0 camber the car slipped less and required noticeably less steering angle to navigate through corners.

That experience is not indicative of camber "working." It's indicative of camber acting opposite of the way it should. On a real track car, going from 3.1 degrees of negative camber on the front wheels to 0.0 degrees of camber on the front wheels, while holding all else equal, should make the steering less sharp and increase understeer. In the test I just ran, it did exactly the opposite.
 
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I cannot agree with you that this is an example of camber working. I just ran this back to back with a 0.0/0.0 camber setting, all else remaining identical, at Silverstone. (Using the BRZ GT300, stock power, no oil change, RH tires as you did.)

1.2 seconds FASTER with 0.0/0.0 camber when compared to your settings and the car felt much "sharper" overall with 0.0/0.0 camber compared to your camber settings.

With your camber settings the car felt like the front wheels were doing a lot of lateral slipping during corners and I had to use a lot more steering angle to get the car to turn. With 0.0/0.0 camber the car slipped less and required noticeably less steering angle to navigate through corners.

That experience is not indicative of camber "working." It's indicative of camber acting opposite of the way it should. On a real track car, going from 3.1 degrees of negative camber on the front wheels to 0.0 degrees of camber on the front wheels, while holding all else equal, should make the steering less sharp and increase understeer. In the test I just ran, it did exactly the opposite.
I'm not sure what settings you have for the car, view, sticks, wheel, faster VR drive than I or what ever. The testing I've done has shown that camber has made the sets I've worked with more stable and faster. You can have your own insight on this subject but as I'm concerned it works fine. As a former test driver I can say they camber is working better than before. I could get critical about this but I don't need to so called "BATMEN" to become &*(& hurt.
 
Without going into great detail @HOOT44 the testing I’ve done so far with camber has shown it does operate properly for the cars I’ve tested thus far. I’ve been mainly testing race cars and some heavy sport cars or touring cars on racing hard ties only to get a better feel through the wheel of what the car is doing and I’m very pleased with some of the cars I’ve tested. I’m find camber at speed and low speed to keep the car very stable though the turns as long the car is set up correctly or to driving style. I know people are doing some strange thing to get the cars around the track but some may be losing a great deal of time just from going through the turns at an unstable rate. Running flat camber may get you down the straight faster but going through a turn you’re losing so much time.

I’ve found that I’ve been faster in some case up to a half a second with a stock powered race car is some sections of the track due to camber alone. The camber is allowing me to have the car to follow through the turns ten to thirty or more mph higher in speed, pend on how the car is rotating throughout the turns over the course of the track. Camber as it should is allowing the car to be more stable through the turns at speed if the car is set correctly or close to the track as possible. Pending on the track and what options you can have with the track the following must be taken and I’ve stated this time and time again but those have yet to understand. 1. Track temperature has a great effect on camber; 2. Track surface, including on and off camber sections; 3. Tire type and compound affects camber, 4. Weight of the car; drivetrain affects the camber of the car, adding weight or move the weight it affect the camber.

There are so many aspect that effect camber that I would like to go into but I’m not due to I must get back to my studies and plus there is there internet. It should suffice enough to give you the information that you’re looking for.
This explains a few things.
What you wrote about driving style and the camber effect in racing cars makes sense.
Thanks.
 
I'm not sure what settings you have for the car, view, sticks, wheel, faster VR drive than I or what ever. The testing I've done has shown that camber has made the sets I've worked with more stable and faster. You can have your own insight on this subject but as I'm concerned it works fine. As a former test driver I can say they camber is working better than before. I could get critical about this but I don't need to so called "BATMEN" to become &*(& hurt.

Settings: No aids. Suspension settings were exactly as I quoted in the post; the only change between runs was to camber.

The car with 0.0/0.0 camber was faster and required far less steering angle to navigate corners. The camber settings you gave made the car plough through corners in a fashion very much like a FWD vehicle. Lots of understeer and the front end was clearly sliding around more. Very predictable, but much less willing to change direction and getting the car to turn took a lot more steering input.

I drove the car with your settings first, set a time, then drove the car with 0.0/0.0 camber and all other settings the same, and checked that time.

I was 1.2 seconds faster with 0.0/0.0 camber than I was with your camber settings. The time delta I'm using is against myself. There is no variable in terms of driver ability because I am comparing myself to myself.
 
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