Derek Speare Designs - Button Boxes - Shifters - Great Gear

[CLIFFO_83]

I've said it before and I'll say it again!!!

Derek!!! Your the man!!!

 

[derekspeare]

Ok folks - here's an update for those who have a Velocity, FVSII, Button Box or CSW Panel order for May 6th shipping: All orders have shipped and are on their way to you. Thank you

And for those who are watching:

More in time

 

[MADCAP]

Derek these are BADBOYZ... bloody awesome work again!

 

[derekspeare]

Derek these are BADBOYZ... bloody awesome work again!

They are nice, huh?

 

[derekspeare]

Hi folks,

I like to stay busy and cook up various goodies. What you see below are the DSD CSW Panels made from 1.3mm thick Mirror Polished Carbon Fiber (the real stuff) and 3/16", water jet cut 6061 aluminum frames (satin black powdercoat). These are as high end as you can get, and we've whipped up a small pre-production run for some fun

These will be a mainline component, and they will be offered in pairs for ~345 USD, shipped free anywhere in the world (with 7-day international express shipping for 37 additional). I'm quite pleased with how they turned out.

Note: Pricing is based on NEW orders only.

If there's adequate interest, orders would start sometime in the next several weeks, most likely the first week of June when more inventory arrives.

Thank you!

d



PS - many thanks to our friends at madcap-dezines.com for the great photography work :thumbup:

 

[Caz]

Sexy!

Am i the only one that was trying to get a peak at the pedal set? Would have been a nice teaser

 

[Publicsafety]

Those are csp, check out Project Sim

 

[Timppaq]

impressive stuff Derek 👍

 

[Caz]

Those are csp, check out Project Sim

Oh i know that. But inwas looking to see if he snuck in a little teaser of the now.gone quiet pedal project.

 

[oldschoolsq]

Hi folks,

I like to stay busy and cook up various goodies. What you see below are the DSD CSW Panels made from 1.3mm thick Mirror Polished Carbon Fiber (the real stuff) and 3/16", water jet cut 6061 aluminum frames (satin black powdercoat). These are as high end as you can get, and we've whipped up a small pre-production run for some fun

These will be a mainline component, and they will be offered in pairs for ~345 USD, shipped free anywhere in the world (with 7-day international express shipping for 37 additional). I'm quite pleased with how they turned out.

How does one purchase these panels ?

 

[derekspeare]

Hi folks,

I like to stay busy and cook up various goodies. What you see below are the DSD CSW Panels made from 1.3mm thick Mirror Polished Carbon Fiber (the real stuff) and 3/16", water jet cut 6061 aluminum frames (satin black powdercoat). These are as high end as you can get, and we've whipped up a small pre-production run for some fun

These will be a mainline component, and they will be offered in pairs for ~345 USD, shipped free anywhere in the world (with 7-day international express shipping for 37 additional). I'm quite pleased with how they turned out.

How does one purchase these panels ?

Send 345 USD for US shipping and 375 USD for international to my paypal - there is a very small batch on hand and I can be convinced to let them go if they want to order a set.

 

[Infinital-NG]

A couple of questions.

If I was going to hook up my G25 pedals (currently just using the gas/brake hooked in through the DFGT)

to the DSD Pedal Pad

then to the DSD 12-bit controller w/ 6 analog channels.

can I keep using the existing pots on the G25? From what I've found so far, it looks like they are 10K pots, and your diagram says to use 100K??

Other question, in regards to the DSD 12-bit 6 analog 32-buttons. I don't quite understand by looking at it how you get 32-buttons out of that?

Thanks for your time.

 

[derekspeare]

DSD Circuits are supported exclusively here:

http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/circuits

Each component is detailed extensively with what they will do. Beyond that, each man must know what the devices do and how to integrate them into their own use.

Every question possible is answered on the above page relevant to the devices indicated. It's vital the information be reviewed to save folks time and effort - and error.

Here is the descption of the DSD Pedal Pal:

DSD Pedal Pal

Here it is - If you have a set of Logitech G25 or G27 pedals and want to connect them to a USB controller board, the DSD Pedal Pal is for you! It's easy to use! Connect your pedals to the plug and then use the include jumpers to connect to your board of choice (I recommend mine).

You receive what's in the photo. The board itself is about 35mm x 35mm. This is as easy as mashing on the gas! $15.75 USD

The DSD 12 bit board has 36 button inputs - the page above has the wiring diagram. DSD boards function without issue when using 10kohm pots - I recommend 100k's, but 10k's are fine.

 

[Infinital-NG]

Thanks for the clarification, but I did review the information on your website and still had a question or two.

For some reason the images of 6x6 matrix and the load cell didn't show up correctly, but now I see them.

If the pedal pad will work with 10K pots, maybe change where it says "Use 100K pots."

That was really my only question about the pots, and I would have figured out the buttons if I purchased that board, I just figure I would ask as well.

 

[LogiForce]

Hi Derek, just ordered one of your 12 bit boards with loadcell amp.

I was trying to get the Arduino Uno to work with UnoJoy, but I haven't been very succesful with that unfortunately.
So seeing as you used the normal 12 bit board for your handbrake, I thought I'd order one with the load cell amp included (for future tinkering).

Oh, and I got my handbrake in operational order as well.

One question to you though (out of curiousity), which people would like to know who might order one of them. Do you ship it with DOT3 oil and have them bleed the system, cause that can be a bit tricky when the master cylinder is full of air (as I found out).

 

[derekspeare]

Hi Derek, just ordered one of your 12 bit boards with loadcell amp.

I was trying to get the Arduino Uno to work with UnoJoy, but I haven't been very succesful with that unfortunately.
So seeing as you used the normal 12 bit board for your handbrake, I thought I'd order one with the load cell amp included (for future tinkering).

Oh, and I got my handbrake in operational order as well.

One question to you though (out of curiousity), which people would like to know who might order one of them. Do you ship it with DOT3 oil and have them bleed the system, cause that can be a bit tricky when the master cylinder is full of air (as I found out).

Thank you for your order

Here's the preliminary detail page for the DSD Hydraulic Handbrake:

http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/handbrake

DOT4 brake fluid is what is used. Keep in mind that when I deploy a component into the production stream it's entirely planned. The order confirmation includes instructions for what to do when the device is received and unpacked. Here is the step by step setup instructions:

1 - remove DSD Hydraulic Handbrake from shipping carton and remove protective wrapping;

2 - remove the protective bag and paper liner taped around the the cap and body of the master cylinder reservoir;

3 - open the master cylinder reservoir and refill with DOT4 brake fluid;

4 - mount the device;

5 - cut the white zip tie securing the lever lock to the device frame and allow the handle to return to its at rest position - DO NOT REMOVE ZIP TIE PRIOR TO REFILLING THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR;

6 - go racing...

The device is fully bled and tested. Provided the instructions above are followed, the device will function as intended. The brake fluid from the reservoir is removed for shipping, but there is fluid in the system.

The language on my site may be updated to state "Fully Bled" to supplement the "Fully Tested - Fully Sealed" line already there, but I am afraid that "Fully Bled" may not translate properly across the 25+ native languages visitors to my site speak.

Note that my goal is to make every DSD component as simple to use as possible. I take "ease of use" most seriously. We all like this:

1 - take out of box;

2 - plug in;

3 - have fun



d

 

[LogiForce]

Awesome, Derek. Didn't know it was save to remove the oil from the reservoir and than ship it. Nice short manual to get going

Also thanks for taking my order. In the mean time I will use the Arduino for the on/off switch, but something is wrong with the axis assignment and it's too much of a hassle to figure it out. lol

About the text maybe you could add "Air removed from the hydraulic system prior to shipment, for your convenience".
It's a bit long maybe, but its in words that easily translate at least. At least I tried that in Google Translate, converting it to Dutch and German, and it translates properly enough (some minor grammer mistakes).

 

[derekspeare]

Awesome, Derek. Didn't know it was save to remove the oil from the reservoir and than ship it. Nice short manual to get going

Also thanks for taking my order. In the mean time I will use the Arduino for the on/off switch, but something is wrong with the axis assignment and it's too much of a hassle to figure it out. lol

About the text maybe you could add "Air removed from the hydraulic system prior to shipment, for your convenience".
It's a bit long maybe, but its in words that easily translate at least. At least I tried that in Google Translate, converting it to Dutch and German, and it translates properly enough (some minor grammer mistakes).

You can only remove the brake fluid from the reservoir when the handle is pushed to the (near) maximum. Prior to packing, the handle is fully depressed and then locked in place with the locking mechanism, and then the zip tie is used to keep it all locked in place during transit.

If you released the lever with an empty master cylinder reservoir it would draw air into the system necessitating it to be bled (or require that air be evacuated from the system).

d

 

[LogiForce]

You can only remove the brake fluid from the reservoir when the handle is pushed to the (near) maximum. Prior to packing, the handle is fully depressed and then locked in place with the locking mechanism, and then the zip tie is used to keep it all locked in place during transit.

If you released the lever with an empty master cylinder reservoir it would draw air into the system necessitating it to be bled (or require that air be evacuated from the system).

d

I see, now I know why I had so much trouble at first bleeding the system. 99% of the time I did not engage the master cylinder far enough for it to let fluid in from the reservoir. Later on I did pull on it harder, but I didn't really know (as a newbie in this area) if it was the master cylinder being faulty or me doing something wrong at first.
Though I now also understand why some online said to bleed a master cylinder or the car with the brake booster attached, as that would make it easier to ngange the master cylinder far enough.

Thanks for teaching me a little something here, Derek.

 

[derekspeare]

I see, now I know why I had so much trouble at first bleeding the system. 99% of the time I did not engage the master cylinder far enough for it to let fluid in from the reservoir. Later on I did pull on it harder, but I didn't really know (as a newbie in this area) if it was the master cylinder being faulty or me doing something wrong at first.
Though I now also understand why some online said to bleed a master cylinder or the car with the brake booster attached, as that would make it easier to ngange the master cylinder far enough.

Thanks for teaching me a little something here, Derek.

Here are the steps:

1 - leave the system in its retracted state - pull the handle all the way back;
2 - fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid;
3 - open the bleed valve;
4 - depress the handle until it goes no more and hold it;
5 - close and tighten the bleed valve;
6 - draw the handle back to the extent it will go;
7 - repeat until only fluid appears (without gurgling or bubbles) on the compression step.

Your handbrake has now been fully evacuated of air

And remember: DSD boards do the trick and just make it that much more cool Or, one could purchase the DSD Hydraulic Handbrake if they wanted one ready to go

http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/handbrake

d

 

[CLIFFO_83]

Derek, I have all my parts for the handbrake just awaiting the slave cylinder mount from you

Can you tell me if you had to tap the thread on the piece the pressure sensor screws into? Because mine does not fit, the threads are different. Did yours fit flush?

 

[derekspeare]

Derek, I have all my parts for the handbrake just awaiting the slave cylinder mount from you

Can you tell me if you had to tap the thread on the piece the pressure sensor screws into? Because mine does not fit, the threads are different. Did yours fit flush?

If you have all of the parts based from my outline then you simply assemble them. It's a DIY project. You'll need to muster the Spirit of the DIY man and align all the necessary forces to make your project a reality.

For those who want one out of the box, hit up my site.

Derek Speare

 

[CLIFFO_83]

If you have all of the parts based from my outline then you simply assemble them. It's a DIY project. You'll need to muster the Spirit of the DIY man and align all the necessary forces to make your project a reality.

For those who want one out of the box, hit up my site.

Derek Speare

All good I made it fit 👍

 

[LogiForce]

For those who want one out of the box, hit up my site.

For those who wonder about the price. It is worth every cent, especially when I consider the money I had to put down for the parts and the amount of work that is involved with mine. Leaving out the fact that I payed 70 euros for a flaring kit as to use copper lines instead of braided brake lines.
These things need to be hand assembled and bled as well, so Derek puts a lot of love in them. Like with his button boxes, and maybe even more than that.

Personally I am rediscovering games now I have a proper handbrake. Especially if you like rally or drifting it is a must have item, as pushing a button just does not cut it. Especially pushing a button on a moving wheel is undoable in a controlled manner in my opinion.


@Derek: I was able to remove the last bit of air from the system using your instructions. Thanks a lot.

 

[derekspeare]

For those who wonder about the price. It is worth every cent, especially when I consider the money I had to put down for the parts and the amount of work that is involved with mine. Leaving out the fact that I payed 70 euros for a flaring kit as to use copper lines instead of braided brake lines.
These things need to be hand assembled and bled as well, so Derek puts a lot of love in them. Like with his button boxes, and maybe even more than that.

Personally I am rediscovering games now I have a proper handbrake. Especially if you like rally or drifting it is a must have item, as pushing a button just does not cut it. Especially pushing a button on a moving wheel is undoable in a controlled manner in my opinion.


@Derek: I was able to remove the last bit of air from the system using your instructions. Thanks a lot.

I was retired before I started my "buttons"...things have grown over the past so many years, and I have a great squad of fellow sim racing enthusiasts who help me get the products out the door and into their intended homes.

Every DSD component is priced in such a way as to make it sensible from the balance sheet (DSD is a business and must pay its way) and must be priced so that the component is economical, valuable, useful, reliable and enjoyable...and they are priced in a way as to make it more intelligent to simply buy than to build on one's own - economies of scale work to everyone's advantage

No one has ever said DSD charges too much money...many times we're told we don't charge enough. I like to keep things fairly priced so anyone from any walk of life can enjoy their sim racing fun that much more...

Apologies for being "preachy", but I'm a working man, too. The free time I have for my own sim racing enjoyment is not in abundance. If I can make the free time of my customers more fun, then my work is complete.

@Logiforce - good you're going...now you have a hydraulic brake and have been indoctrinated into the ultimate form of braking!

Next you'll need some hydraulic pedals Your board goes out Monday, too.

Thank you,

Derek

 

[LogiForce]

Don't tell anyone, but I have been secretly looking at pedal sets for a while now. Just wanted to get a handbrake first to get some experience.
I am not sure which pedal set to get yet though. Go for cheap or save up for a nice Tilton set.
The biggest concern is the pedal angle and how to mount them on the rSeat Evo's pedal plate, under which I have a buttkicker mounted. Most floor mounted pedals are straight up I think, a 90 degree angle with the floor. Which won't work with a buttkicker underneath the rSeat plate.
So at that point I need to make changes to the rig again. To the point where I have to decide on what to go for, floor mounted or maybe hanging pedals. Though most of all, I might have to think about doing away with the rather limited rSeat and go with 80/20 (which isn't sold here, so shipping will be expensive).
And if I do switch to 80/20 I can have a more sturdy rig with a better way of mounting buttkickers, shifters, handbrakes, button boxes and all other goodies.

Aaaah, a rig is never finished.


Glad to hear the board will be under way Monday already. Awesome! I wasn't expecting it till Friday. Great service as always.

One question though. Do you think it would be worth it to switch to a Measpec sensor, or would that only be usefull on a footbrake? Using the gain adjustment and all.
As for a hydraulic pedal set I thought using a SAM on the clutch, Measpec on the brake and pot or hal effect sensor on the gas pedal would be the best combination.

 

[derekspeare]

Don't tell anyone, but I have been secretly looking at pedal sets for a while now. Just wanted to get a handbrake first to get some experience.
I am not sure which pedal set to get yet though. Go for cheap or save up for a nice Tilton set.
The biggest concern is the pedal angle and how to mount them on the rSeat Evo's pedal plate, under which I have a buttkicker mounted. Most floor mounted pedals are straight up I think, a 90 degree angle with the floor. Which won't work with a buttkicker underneath the rSeat plate.
So at that point I need to make changes to the rig again. To the point where I have to decide on what to go for, floor mounted or maybe hanging pedals. Though most of all, I might have to think about doing away with the rather limited rSeat and go with 80/20 (which isn't sold here, so shipping will be expensive).
And if I do switch to 80/20 I can have a more sturdy rig with a better way of mounting buttkickers, shifters, handbrakes, button boxes and all other goodies.

Aaaah, a rig is never finished.


Glad to hear the board will be under way Monday already. Awesome! I wasn't expecting it till Friday. Great service as always.

One question though. Do you think it would be worth it to switch to a Measpec sensor, or would that only be usefull on a footbrake? Using the gain adjustment and all.
As for a hydraulic pedal set I thought using a SAM on the clutch, Measpec on the brake and pot or hal effect sensor on the gas pedal would be the best combination.

It's either Fanatec V2 Clubsports (I have the V1's..."V2" anything from a German company may not be the best name ). I'd presume the V2's are just as good, but the clutch is peculiar at best...I have and have had high performance cars with both mechanical and hydraulic clutches as well as my bikes, and none have a "digressive" vibe going on - my real world race friends say the same.

So I'm clear, though, the Clubsport Pedals are an example of engineering brilliance. Get them or Emery's Tilton pedals. I make VERY few recommendations and those are components I recommend.

So is the MeaSpec PT, but for a HB it's too much unless you really want to fine tune it and have money to spend on it; it's a large difference in price between the Sam Sensor and the MeaSpec. For pedals, however, it's worth in my opinion.

Use pots, not halls, and use a hydraulic clutch like you've indicated. Since it's pedals and I am working on my own, I'm not able to give more than that

 

[LogiForce]

I have both the V1 and V2 pedals as well. I just don't have experience with the hydraulic clutch systems. I have only good ol' wires in my car for clutch and throttle pedals, and the rest of the cars I have driven were the same. So the only way to use a wire system on sim pedals would be to make a small gearbox of sorts. Which honestly I currently don't even wish to consider trying to do due to many reasons (lack of knowledge, tools, craftsmanship... etc).

I think it would be best to stay with a SAM on the HB then. A SAM on the clutch and on the gas a pot. With finally a Measpec on the brake.
That way I can use that single board of yours (DSD 12-bit with load cell amp) to connect everything to it in one go.

The only issue would come when I end up having a pedal set with dual master cylinders on the brake. There aren't any games that would allow dual axis to be set seperately on the front and rear brakes (at least not yet, but I asked for it just now over at WMD for pCARS).
If supported than you could use the physical remote bias knob from say Tilton to adjust the brake bias. Plus it wouldn't be a waste of a dual cylinder system on a good set of pedals.
Solution (I think): Get an extra load cell amp off of your hands... I think. The only issue left would be the assignment of the axis, but you could use a 3-way switch for that (something like the pickup switch on a Fender Telecaster).

First are the summer holidays that are coming up soon enough. I want to do something more than sit inside and enjoy the gear on my rig. lol

Ah, sorry. I almost forgot you were working on your own awesome set of pedals. Something like that will take a whole lot of work due to unforseen issues and/or areas of improvement.
So I hope all is going well with that huge project. Good luck, Derek!

 

[derekspeare]

I have both the V1 and V2 pedals as well. I just don't have experience with the hydraulic clutch systems. I have only good ol' wires in my car for clutch and throttle pedals, and the rest of the cars I have driven were the same. So the only way to use a wire system on sim pedals would be to make a small gearbox of sorts. Which honestly I currently don't even wish to consider trying to do due to many reasons (lack of knowledge, tools, craftsmanship... etc).

It's too much $$$ - and I've never heard anyone say that they're faster because the clutch is better

I think it would be best to stay with a SAM on the HB then. A SAM on the clutch and on the gas a pot. With finally a Measpec on the brake.
That way I can use that single board of yours (DSD 12-bit with load cell amp) to connect everything to it in one go.

That's the solution 👍

The only issue would come when I end up having a pedal set with dual master cylinders on the brake. There aren't any games that would allow dual axis to be set seperately on the front and rear brakes (at least not yet, but I asked for it just now over at WMD for pCARS).
If supported than you could use the physical remote bias knob from say Tilton to adjust the brake bias. Plus it wouldn't be a waste of a dual cylinder system on a good set of pedals.

Both masters need to be tied together. We've suggested it at iRacing, too, but nothing and it's doubtful such a feature will be implemented. I do agree that it's important to have two braking inputs and it's smart to do it in the software - it's 2013 after all.

Solution (I think): Get an extra load cell amp off of your hands... I think. The only issue left would be the assignment of the axis, but you could use a 3-way switch for that (something like the pickup switch on a Fender Telecaster).

dunno - I can't envision what you're describing - I'd say stick with the Clubsports anyhow.

First are the summer holidays that are coming up soon enough. I want to do something more than sit inside and enjoy the gear on my rig. lol

My time is devoted to making the enjoyment of one's sim space that much better! 👍👍👍

Ah, sorry. I almost forgot you were working on your own awesome set of pedals. Something like that will take a whole lot of work due to unforseen issues and/or areas of improvement.
So I hope all is going well with that huge project. Good luck, Derek!

10 grand in R/D - 5 sets as scrap. One day we'll see some things...that day may come sooner than folks are expecting

 

[LogiForce]

It's too much $$$ - and I've never heard anyone say that they're faster because the clutch is better

That's the solution 👍

Both masters need to be tied together. We've suggested it at iRacing, too, but nothing and it's doubtful such a feature will be implemented. I do agree that it's important to have two braking inputs and it's smart to do it in the software - it's 2013 after all.

dunno - I can't envision what you're describing - I'd say stick with the Clubsports anyhow.

My time is devoted to making the enjoyment of one's sim space that much better! 👍👍👍

10 grand in R/D - 5 sets as scrap. One day we'll see some things...that day may come sooner than folks are expecting

I think we need to distinguish between two groups of sim racers here.

1. The Competative Sim Racer - he/she who plays his sims to seriously compete with others online and will do everything to scrape a time off of his laps and improve his car handling.

2. The Entertainment Sim Racer - he/she who plays a sim for fun but who does not find things entertaining enough unless the realism of his games and his peripherals approaches realistic levels. This type of racer would use a real car for the job if he could. He is the one that would seek out any type of hardware that would improve realism of driving the cars on his screen for him, even if this might effect his lap times negatively.


Judging from your response, I think you might be more the first type of racer. Though correct me if I am wrong.
While I am more of the latter group. I tend to play all sorts of games for entertainment purposes only. Though when I play a racing game, I wish for my experience to be as realistic as possible and giving me total immersion if possible.


About the switch. A telecaster has two magnetic pickups. The switch lets you select the neck pickup, bridge pickup or in its center position use both.
So using that style of switch you could choose between the front brake sensor (and assign it), rear brake sensor (and assign it), and both brake sensors. When using both brake sensors you could adjust the bias via the brake bias bar and the remote adjuster that the respect pedal box manufacturer offers.

So these types of switches: http://www.fender.com/guitar-bass-p...tratocastertelecaster-pickup-selector-switch/

I am sure there are others that do the same job out there, but this is what I meant initial or what came to mind at least.


Here is to hoping for good days to come then.