Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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Yeah, thanks for posting. Hopefully this will get some noise. I just got it last week, and plugged everything in according to the instructions. Got the load cell brake as well. Power it up, update the drivers per what Fanatec recommends. I get a response from the clutch (former brake), i get a response out of the load cell brake, and i get nothing from the throttle.

I rewired everything, even thinking they may have potentially mislabled cables, i tried every possible configuration. Still, clutch responds, brake responds, nothing from the throttle. And i get nothing but crickets from Fanatec. Anyone have any possible solutions to either get things working or get Fanatec to actually do their jobs?
I think there's something up with the load cell and peddles. Plenty of posts all over tge Web about it. Doesn't appear to happen all the time, but throttle seems to die after some connect the load cell. See a post I made in another thread early hours this morning:

'
Well it's not working as expected for me, sadly. Set up the standard pedals earlier... worked perfectly.

I then removed the brake and installed the load cell. Load cell worked fine, but throttle not registering. Hooked it up to pc, updated pedals firmware. Noticed there was no response with the throttle under pedals -manual configuration mode.

Played around with cables, double, triple, quadruple and more confirming cables inserted correctly... zero response from throttle within the app and gt7.

Removed load cell and went back to original brake setup. Same issue, no response at all from throttle.

Googling around, appears a relatively common issue. Usually ends up with fanatec sending out new peddles.

Appears some weakness with potentiator in the throttle, that can be triggered/exposed by the load cell.

Really disappointing/frustrating, as was enjoying using the wheel and original pedal setup. I'll contact fanatec tomorrow, hopefully won't be too drawn out...'
 
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So I have a GT DD Pro, and am extremely happy with it, but there is this one thing I have trouble with, especially with fast cars like the red bull car you win for golding S-license, when I'm reaching high speeds for instance on Le Mans, the wheel angle starts locking up and it begins to vibrate / oscillate extremely heavily, even with NDP and INT set to a high value.
I'm afraid it's an issue with the game I've never had this problem on other racing games.
Is there any other settings I should play with to get the wheel to stay smooth even at high speeds? Without lowering too much of the FFB torque.
 
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So I have a GT DD Pro, and am extremely happy with it, but there is this one thing I have trouble with, especially with fast cars like the red bull car you win for golding S-license, when I'm reaching high speeds for instance on Le Mans, the wheel angle starts locking up and it begins to vibrate / oscillate extremely heavily, even with NDP and INT set to a high value.
I'm afraid it's an issue with the game I've never had this problem on other racing games.
Is there any other settings I should play with to get the wheel to stay smooth even at high speeds? Without lowering too much of the FFB torque.
The INT setting will help this. You’ll still get the vibration but it will tone it down the higher value you set. It’s a compromise as it can hide detail.
 
Well I'm glad it's not just me! I think rumble strips which make a noise should result in some FFB, even if it's just a little bit.
Noticed the same in GT7 with my DD Pro. At first I thought somethings wrong with the wheel. But because on other curbs I get a clear feedback I figured it must be the game not giving any signals. Although it's weird to have rumbling in the audio but not in the wheel. I'm kinda glad that you guys have the same issue :)
 
The INT setting will help this. You’ll still get the vibration but it will tone it down the higher value you set. It’s a compromise as it can hide detail.
I disagree. NDP is for stopping oscillation, not INT. INT is for getting rid of harshness, not dampening acceleration of the wheel, which in combination with delay leads to oscillation. That's my understanding and experience so far.

@Kalder Are you using 5/1 and FF 100 with 8 Nm on a Gr.1/X car? I use like 40-50% with that kind of car...

Anyway, I have zero issues.
 
Yeah, thanks for posting. Hopefully this will get some noise. I just got it last week, and plugged everything in according to the instructions. Got the load cell brake as well. Power it up, update the drivers per what Fanatec recommends. I get a response from the clutch (former brake), i get a response out of the load cell brake, and i get nothing from the throttle.

I rewired everything, even thinking they may have potentially mislabled cables, i tried every possible configuration. Still, clutch responds, brake responds, nothing from the throttle. And i get nothing but crickets from Fanatec. Anyone have any possible solutions to either get things working or get Fanatec to actually do their jobs?
I assume you are trying to return it for a replacement?
 
I disagree. NDP is for stopping oscillation, not INT. INT is for getting rid of harshness, not dampening acceleration of the wheel, which in combination with delay leads to oscillation. That's my understanding and experience so far.

@Kalder Are you using 5/1 and FF 100 with 8 Nm on a Gr.1/X car? I use like 40-50% with that kind of car...

Anyway, I have zero issues.
Yeah I never really adjust the settings per car, but I might have to with these kind of cars, that probably will help, I'll just make an extra profile on my GT DD Pro.
 
Yeah I never really adjust the settings per car, but I might have to with these kind of cars, that probably will help, I'll just make an extra profile on my GT DD Pro.
Yep, I always adjust. With 8 Nm, 100% with road cars and around 50% with gr.3 cars - the rest is identical.

If you find yourself focusing too much on feeling the grip in your hands, increase FF strength. If you instead find yourself having to fight the wheel too much, in a high downforce car and you just need to point quickly and stomp, then decrease. It's great being able to do this on the fly while driving!

That's how I do it at least.
 
I think just getting a response from CS would be a start. Many others are having the exact same issue. 7+days to get a reply is pathetic.

hjave you tried calling them?

I found pedals on facebook market place, so just driven 40 miles each way to secure them. pleased to test and confirm working!

not going to risk that load cell again (at least for now until Fanatec respond and maybe give some advice/insight).
 
B80
hjave you tried calling them?

I found pedals on facebook market place, so just driven 40 miles each way to secure them. pleased to test and confirm working!

not going to risk that load cell again (at least for now until Fanatec respond and maybe give some advice/insight).
I'm not the one with the issue. I have had to contact them in the past. But, at that time Fanatec didn't have a new product that was all over the place. Maybe Fanatec CS should respond to the emails people have sent.
 
B80
hjave you tried calling them?

I found pedals on facebook market place, so just driven 40 miles each way to secure them. pleased to test and confirm working!

not going to risk that load cell again (at least for now until Fanatec respond and maybe give some advice/insight).
Finally got an email response and hopefully this will move forward. Just fair warning to those looking to upgrade, check everything, and document any issues as soon as you can. It's crazy to spend all this money for it to sit useless because of subpar hardware
 
Finally got an email response and hopefully this will move forward. Just fair warning to those looking to upgrade, check everything, and document any issues as soon as you can. It's crazy to spend all this money for it to sit useless because of subpar hardware
There’s no excuse. They want to market themselves as a premium brand but their after sales is nonexistent. If your iPhone breaks you’d have a new one within a few days via RMA. This company can’t even acknowledge customer contact within a few days.
 
Anyone with issues with the joystick on the GT wheel dying? My DD pro has 10 days and the joystick stopped registering, i cant even navigate the quick tune menu, have to plug it in to the PC to change things. Tried everything already, reset, unplug, restart, nothing i think something simply "broke" inside the rim.

Other question, have anyone tried DIRT 2.0? i read on the forum that it had to be in compatibility mode, but the game on PS5 only recognizes the wheel in normal mode as a generic wheel, and FFB, even with the fanatec settings is bad... (It was during the configuration of options to try dirt that the joystick died..)
 
Hey I'm looking to switch from logitech, do I need to go all in with 8nm and load cell right away?
 
Hey I'm looking to switch from logitech, do I need to go all in with 8nm and load cell right away?
10 day experience on the 5nm, coming from a t300 alcantara with t3pa and th8a. Absolutely not. The jump is so big that you can expend that money a little later.
 
Anyone know the weight of the GT wheel? I’m curious how it compares to something like the clubsport wheel rs which is 1653 grams.
 
Anyone know the weight of the GT wheel? I’m curious how it compares to something like the clubsport wheel rs which is 1653 grams.
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Hello,

Did anyone upgraded from G29 to Fanatec DD GT and currently playing GT7?

I wondering if there's a big difference in terms of immersion(feeling when tyre is losing grip, oversteer/understeer, feeling of road surface)?

Thx
 
Just a question to you CSL DD users.
I noticed when I start up my Wheelbase that after a few Minutes my Base starts to produce this strange Micro Vibration/Grainy Feel in the Wheel.
Almost like a booting hard disk drive.
It happens every time after 4-5 Minutes.
During that period the Wheel feels very grainy. During that Period I continue to drive as it doesn’t distract me too much and after 5 more Minutes it slowly disappears and everything feels super smooth and it doesn’t come back for the rest of my playing Session no matter how long I play.
Does anyone else notice this strange behavior???
Maybe @super_gt knows what that might be???
Anyway the CSL Dd is awesome and anyone who thinks about upgrading and if it’s worth to upgrade from a non DD Wheelbase, YES, do it.
I drive for almost 25years with Steering Wheels in Video Games but this DD Technology is a whole new Step in my Experience.
I highly recommend to switch to a Direct Drive Wheelbase.
It’s a complete Game Changer, one you definitely are never going to neglect after you‘ve you‘ve once discovered it 😁
 
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Just a question to you CSL DD users.
I noticed when I start up my Wheelbase that after a few Minutes my Base starts to produce this strange Micro Vibration/Grainy Feel in the Wheel.
Almost like a booting hard disk drive.
It happens every time after 4-5 Minutes.
During that period the Wheel feels very grainy. During that Period I continue to drive as it doesn’t distract me too much and after 5 more Minutes it slowly disappears and everything feels super smooth and it doesn’t come back for the rest of my playing Session no matter how long I play.
Does anyone else notice this strange behavior???
Maybe @super_gt knows what that might be???
Anyway the CSL Dd is awesome and anyone who thinks about upgrading and if it’s worth to upgrade from a non DD Wheelbase, YES, do it.
I drive for almost 25years with Steering Wheels in Video Games but this DD Technology is a whole new Step in my Experience.
I highly recommend to switch to a Direct Drive Wheelbase.
It’s a complete Game Changer, one you definitely are never going to neglect after you‘ve you‘ve once discovered it 😁
Yes I have had that sandy grainy feel coming from my wheel about 2 months ago, and it's a known problem on the Fanatec forum for some people. I was going to send my base back but what I did and it work for me, is put the wheel USB cable from the back of my PS5 to the front, and I have not had it since I did that.
 
CBH
Yes I have had that sandy grainy feel coming from my wheel about 2 months ago, and it's a known problem on the Fanatec forum for some people. I was going to send my base back but what I did and it work for me, is put the wheel USB cable from the back of my PS5 to the front, and I have not had it since I did that.
That’s interesting, I always plug my Wheel to front USB on my PS5 though.
I never tried to use the rear USB Port. So completely opposite to your approach.
I did try to connect my Wheelbase with USB C though and it happens too.
What I noticed is that if I unplug the Power Supply from the Wheelbase over Night and than re attach it when I want to play, the intensity and duration of this ”Grainy Feeling seems to be somewhat lower and shorter until it disappears completely.
Strange, but at least it always disappears after 5-8 Minutes and doesn’t reappear from there on.
I‘ll try to directly plug it to the rear USB Port the next time I fire up my PS5.
Something I haven’t tried at all.
Maybe it’s the complete opposite to what you have experienced but anyway I’m glad it disappears after a few minutes every time.
 
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