Yeah but SH they kind of "slip sliding away" from the start, well they do for me anyways, SM are much easier to stay on the road and prevent some costly off road experiences
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So...watch out for car #3!! 
Should be, I've got
Don't worryOh, one more thing...I feel I should probably apologize, in advance, to whomever races tomorrow because I have a feeling I will be smashing off cars, spinning out in front of cars and generally screwing up big time!
, this time I'll be following you .
Ok.. Thanks, @TurnLeft... Boy, I don't know what the heck to set my brakes to for this car and this track. I am experiencing so much weight shift to the front when I brake hard, like for the first turn, and my rear end is just coming around on me at 1,000,000 MPH! Even when I brake early, so I can get off the brake pedal before the turn, I'm all over the place.
I just want to be clear on something...For these events, we are all using the same exact car(s) with the only exception for personal tuning being the brake balance, right? Everybody must use the same exact Toe setting. The same exact Camber settings...right?
I only bring that up because over in the Garage thread I had a discussion recently about @Ridox2JZGTE offering advice on some suspension settings to change to better suit a particular person. I said that I thought changing suspension and LSD settings is a radical change and therefore the car was no longer a "Ridox Replica". Ridox disagreed with me. I'm paraphrasing all of this, but he basically said that if the heart of the car is still the same (the weight & weight balance, power) then it's still a Ridox replica. I still disagree, but that's a different topic for another day...
So, anyway...I just want to be clear on the rules for our club races. We all must drive the same exact settings as posted in Ridox's Garage. Even though Ridox lists a "camber range", we are to be using F: 1.5 & R: 3.0, right?
Perhaps all of this should go without saying, but I just wanted to ask so I would be 100% clear on things...👍
Oh, one more thing...I feel I should probably apologize, in advance, to whomever races tomorrow because I have a feeling I will be smashing off cars, spinning out in front of cars and generally screwing up big time!
, but I think all car should have the same setup, save for the brake balance which should be per individual preference For more stable braking, like @TurnLeft said, lower BB, and closer between front and rear, or use same 4/4 or 3/3, or try 4/3
Yes...I think that all cars should be 99.99% the same - the one potential difference being the brake balance. I hope @danbojte agrees.For camber and toe, it's @danbojte call, he's the organizer
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, I'd prefer please, if you could choose only one setup, the one you consider the most appropriate, for each replica you'll publish, with no options. This way we all will gain time to enjoy your beautiful cars and avoid headaches. 
Oh goodie. I get to use more power@ AllClubMembers
Rule #1
All drivers are required to use the same settings, excepting the Brake Balance.
Here is the car's set-up:
Specs Keiichi Tsuchiya NSX-R Weight With AC + Fully Loaded HDD SatNav/DVD
Dyno Power
Horsepower: 315 HP / 320 PS at 6500 RPM
Torque: 263.4 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.7%
Weight: 1310 kg - stage 1
Ballast : 165 kg
Ballast Position : 34
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 - to real life spec 42 / 58
Performance Points: 479
GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Aero Kits : Type A ( OPTIONAL )
Tuning Parts Installed :
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Intake Tuning
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Weight Reduction Stage 1
Window Weight Reduction
Suspension - Kei Office Coilover/Sachs Damper Prototype
Based on DG5 NA2 Coilover Kit with Swift Springs
Lowered 30mm Front / 25mm Rear with High Camber Alignment
Front, Rear
Ride Height: 95 100
Spring Rate: 9.00 14.00
Dampers (Compression): 5 4
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.5 3.0
Toe Angle: -0.28 0.39
LSD HONDA Torque Control Differential with factory preload
Rear
Initial Torque : 30
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 15
@Ridox2JZGTE
As for reducing future (and past) confusions
If anybody will be unhappy with the replica settings you published, then he/she can contact you for options to alter the setup you chose. 👍
That's gonna eat up those rears a bit more
Hope you make it in time 👍
, ah wait ... this should wake him up.
, nice pass @danbojte , those fresh tires sure seemed to hold good, mine were to say the least "close to the edge" . 
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Only had free run once, did 2:22.5xx on SH with quite a drifty car Don't know what happen with my car or my connection
You were to fast and entered an other dimensionSorry, got DC twice
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Second race was good, mandatory run-out-area check had own time window, still time left to get in lead, that was great race.@OdeFinn , nice race, you are one fast dude, what happened at the end???
I had exactly your strategy.@danbojte , just curious, what was your tire selection for the first race? I went with SM as long as I could and ended with SH.
I'm sure @Ridox2JZGTE has already prepared three cars (I think) for us to use at Bathurst. 👍
R34 GTR Vpec 355PS vs Ralliart Evo X with special power upgrade to 360PS vs STi R205 with 350+PS ( still needs testing ) I could include more choices like the R32 and R33 GTR with upgraded power at 350PS, will test these tomorrow. I'm going to make them as close to the R34 base time at Bathurst 2:31s on CS tire
Thank you Sir! 👍I will post the car for Bathurst in a day or two
And @Ridox2JZGTE for providing another great car to have such fun in 
I'm looking forward to next weeks event already 👍No, had to go in and change to SH. They distracted my pit crew and they put on SM in the first stop@Thorin Cain , that was a great start you had, was the second pit stop planned or did you just want to go talk to my pit crew
Then I forgot to tell them to not bother with fuel 
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