The Human Comedy Tune And Strategy Collection

  • Thread starter syntex123
  • 202 comments
  • 185,080 views
For Red Bull Ring:

It rains half way into the race (30 min mark). The default strategy is RM > RM until it rains. But, there's a catch. If you want, you can go RS > RM, going balls out on the Softs, then saving a bit of fuel on the Mediums with lower map. This is because Beauvois is absolutely TERRIBLE at overtaking backmarkers and will lose a lot of time, so you can stretch the second stint without much problem.

Once it rains, switch to Wets, not Inters. AI will try Inters, but will have to change to Wets anyway. Track is undrivable on anything below Wets. Stay on Wets until well after the rain stops (once you see a fair bit of red on your Wet tires), then switch to Softs for the final stint around the 12 min mark, maybe even below. You'll be over 1 minute ahead of the AI at this point, because they switch to Inters before the Softs (they're dumb!).

Another possible strategy is to start on Hards with FM6, then only stop once it rains.

I used the Castrol Supra, which can't do a full stint on Mediums because there's not enough fuel. You're gonna have to run FM2 or 3 if going for the first strategy anyway. I did the second one so I could fully utilize the car's capabilities with the Softs.

Gallo is the main opponent. Beauvois stops too late and loses too much time on his Mediums when it starts raining.

tl;dr

RM (45 min) > RM (30 min) > W (12 min) > RS (end)

or

RS (48 min) > RM (30 min) > W (12 min) > RS (end)

or

RH (30 min) > W (12 min) > RS (end)
 
Last edited:
HyperSpeeder
For Red Bull Ring:

It rains half way into the race (30 min mark). The default strategy is RM > RM until it rains. But, there's a catch. If you want, you can go RS > RM, going balls out on the Softs, then saving a bit of fuel on the Mediums with lower map. This is because Beauvois is absolutely TERRIBLE at overtaking backmarkers and will lose a lot of time, so you can stretch the second stint without much problem.

Once it rains, switch to Wets, not Inters. AI will try Inters, but will have to change to Wets anyway. Track is undrivable on anything below Wets. Stay on Wets until well after the rain stops (once you see a fair bit of red on your Wet tires), then switch to Softs for the final stint around the 12 min mark, maybe even below. You'll be over 1 minute ahead of the AI at this point, because they switch to Inters before the Softs (they're dumb!).

Another possible strategy is to start on Hards with FM6, then only stop once it rains.

I used the Castrol Supra, which can't do a full stint on Mediums because there's not enough fuel. You're gonna have to run FM2 or 3 if going for the first strategy anyway. I did the second one so I could fully utilize the car's capabilities with the Softs.

Gallo is the main opponent. Beauvois stops too late and loses too much time on his Mediums when it starts raining.

tl;dr

RM (45 min) > RM (30 min) > W (12 min) > RS (end)

or

RS (48 min) > RM (30 min) > W (12 min) > RS (end)

or

RH (30 min) > W (12 min) > RS (end)
Click to expand...
That’s a good detailed strategy, thank you! Should I write this under any car or "quote you" on the Supra?
 
You can use a stock RCZ Gr. 3 Road Car and win easily at Kyoto. The car is well balanced and can catch Sollis in only a few Laps. And just like its racing variant, it has good fuel economy.

No strategy is really necessary, just keep it on Fuel 1 and pit halfway. The refill takes a while, but you should have a small gap behind Carraza and Sollis. I guess if you want, you could add a Turbo Lag to go faster.
 
Last edited:
Kyoto Driving Park

I used the WRX Type R STi Ver.VI '99 for this. Always loved that little car and knew it could make a good club racer.
I had tried several of the RWD tunes available here but could never manage the oversteer coming out of the corners with power down. Then I tried FWD but that would plow through the corners like crazy.

Finally I figured ok, 4WD it is, gotta put the power down, gotta make this work.

I took the weight down as far as I could using weight reduction, and grabbed the following car upgrades:

Sports: Medium
Fully Customized Suspension
Full Control Computer
Power Restrictor (ended up not using this at all)
Racing (Slotted Disk) Brakes
Racing Brake Pads

20220422_192450.jpg


Raised the ride height to 150 for both front and rear to open up some more PP to play with, Camber to .2 / .5 F/R respectively.

Left the power restrictor at 100% and dropped the output to 90. Set the Front/Rear Torque to 40 : 60 from 30 : 70

20220422_192459.jpg


Running the race:

TCR = 1
Fuel Map = 1
You are literally never in danger of running out of fuel at this map/power level

The first 12 laps were spent getting into the lead and maintaining it. Then pit at just past 30 minutes. You're doing this on one stop.
The second 20 minutes or so I was cruising in the top 3-4 depending on where the others were pitting. With about 10 to go I took the lead for what I thought would be for good but got punted by some backmarkers I was trying to pass, cost me 10 seconds to get back onto the track, AND THE LEAD.

I spent the next 2 laps hunting down the leader again and passed them with corners to go, not laps.

Ended up winning by just under a second but without that punt I'd have won by more than 10 seconds.

Great fun, great little car to toss around, very stable and planted especially in the long sweepers and really really able to put the power down exiting the corners.

Your fronts are going to scrub and wear at about 2x the rate of the rears or so, but even pitting on lap 13 for fuel and new tires I never noticed lack of control or stability.

You'll want to ensure that you don't fill all the way at your stop. I hit the stop fueling button after they'd put me up to 13 total laps fuel knowing that I wasn't going to use it all. Finished with about 3-4 laps fuel so you can cut that even closer if you want to save a few pounds.

Anyways, great little car, if you have one give it a shot at this circuit, you won't be disappointed.

@syntex123
 
Last edited:
Deep Forest

Hi There!

My name is Hollowkatt and I am lazy and hate competition.
I use Far Chase Cam, a controller, and automatic transmissions whenever I'm allowed to do so.

If you're like me, check this tune out for the Deep Forest 1 hour endurance race. If you're not like me, or you want a car that isn't going to beat the pants off of the competition by almost 30 seconds, keep scrolling.


For this tune you will need:
1x Alpine A220 Race Car '68
1x Racing Medium Tires
1x Fully Customized Suspension
1x Full Control Computer
1x Ballast
1x Fully Customized Differential
1x Racing Muffler
1x Racing (Slotted Disk) Brakes

20220422_224800.jpg


20220422_224833.jpg


20220422_224845.jpg


Set your downforce F = 50 R = 200
Set your Output to 99
Set your Ballast to 200 and put it at position -50. This is to make up for not having any front downforce. It's gonna help.

Set your Ride Height to be 150 F and 155 R. Basically make it look like the pictures above.

For the race:

TRC = 1
Fuel Map = 1. You won't run out, trust me.

The first 5-10 laps or so are chasing down the leader and getting yourself into position to take the lead when he pits. Not sure who it was but they pitted on Lap 9.

You're going to want to be hitting somewhere between 1:34 and 1:39 for lap times, it'll be fast enough, trust me.

Once the leader pits basically stay out till you are passed the halfway time marker, then dive into the pits. Take tires b/c this circuit ruins the front right tire faster than anything else.
Take enough fuel to make it to the end of the race. I put in 21 laps worth on my stop, finished with somewhere around 3ish left. You can cut it closer if you want to. I wouldn't.

So the leader pits, you stay out. You pit. I came out of the pits in 6th and was back in the lead within the next 5-9 laps or so. Again from there just cruise. They cannot catch you, you set amazing sector times in the fiddly bits.

Here's the hot tip though: On the two long straights you WILL want to brake at the 200 marker. While the racing disks are good you're using the Normal brake pads. They'll lock up if you brake much harder than that. Maybe if you wanna fiddle with the PP to get the Brake Balance controller that's your call. I didn't care that much.

Anyways, this tune is super simple, the car drives like a dream, you're never actually in danger of losing, it's a gimme race for sure.

Like I said at the beginning, if you're lazy and want a gimme use this tune. If you want close competition and strategy and not knowing for sure you're going to win, drive something else.

Me? I'm lazy AF.

@syntex123
 
Thanks for the tunes and strategies @hollowkatt - I’ll add them once I have a minute to myself later today :D

GTvsForza
You can use a stock RCZ Gr. 3 Road Car and win easily at Kyoto.
Click to expand...
If any strategy was used, can you edit your post to include it? Linking your post with just those words can feel a little misleading for some when clicking Peugeot in the OP :lol:
HyperSpeeder
I haven't tried with any other car but it should work with a variety of cars IMO.
Click to expand...
Then I’m just writing Supra and the clickers will find out. :)

Thanks again guys, keep posting the good stuff.
 
Last edited:
I know it's efficient, but I don't like these crazy ride height that I can see everywhere, that's actually some sort of exploit, not as bad as the transmission glitch, but still...

I sure hope they fix this before locking online events on pp, 'cause I don't want everybody to drive a gogo gadget car...
 
I have tried a few times in Autopolis mission, whether in S660 & Copen, all got failed. Also after 1.13, PD has got Honda S660 Nerfed, means I have to add around 130kg weight to keep my S660 under 400pps, in which previous version could keep around 600kg somthing with 400pps at the same setup, so I change to use Cappuccino instead.

I have updated to screenshot attached, with wide body + front & rear wing (both downforce set to Max), so that I could keep higher BHP with saving fuels for 2 stop strategy, by fueling at lap 9 & 18.

The result was very impressive, the average time was 2:27 and my fastest time was 2:25, so I was able to win the AI in normal difficulty. Also I have used TCS 2, ASM On and automatic transmission with DS4 to play with.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20220426_224123325.jpg
    PXL_20220426_224123325.jpg
    133.5 KB · Views: 75
  • PXL_20220426_225718398.jpg
    PXL_20220426_225718398.jpg
    151.5 KB · Views: 77
  • PXL_20220426_225731371.jpg
    PXL_20220426_225731371.jpg
    131.9 KB · Views: 76
Last edited:
Tommi_Vercetti
I have tried a few times in Autopolis mission, whether in S660 & Copen, all got failed. Also after 1.13, PD has got Honda S660 Nerfed, means I have to add around 130kg weight to keep my S660 under 400pps, in which previous version could keep around 600kg somthing with 400pps at the same setup, so I change to use Cappuccino instead.

I have updated to screenshot attached, with wide body + front & rear wing (both downforce set to Max), so that I could keep higher BHP with saving fuels for 2 stop strategy, by fueling at lap 9 & 18.

The result was very impressive, the average time was 2:27 and my fastest time was 2:25, so I was able to win the AI in normal difficulty. Also I have used TCS 2, ASM On and automatic transmission with DS4 to play with.
Click to expand...
What about Fuel Management? What did you use?
 
This setup is for the Pre-1979 One Hour race at Alsace. It is for the Willys Jeep 1945. Fit the Jeep with the wide body and wide tires.
18071b5cd6782-screenshotUrl.jpg

This is a pretty stable tune, but it does understeer a bit for me.
18071b5dfc077-screenshotUrl.jpg

I ran the race in fuel map 1, completed 24 laps, pitting once halfway through and finishing with 0.8 laps in the tank. You can go flat out the entire race. It's very slow on the straights, but you can chuck it in and go around almost anyone in the corners. I didn't take the race lead until the 21st lap when the single pit strategy won out.
18071a2ac3868-screenshotUrl.jpg
 
hollowkatt
Deep Forest

Hi There!

My name is Hollowkatt and I am lazy and hate competition.
I use Far Chase Cam, a controller, and automatic transmissions whenever I'm allowed to do so.

If you're like me, check this tune out for the Deep Forest 1 hour endurance race. If you're not like me, or you want a car that isn't going to beat the pants off of the competition by almost 30 seconds, keep scrolling.


For this tune you will need:
1x Alpine A220 Race Car '68
1x Racing Medium Tires
1x Fully Customized Suspension
1x Full Control Computer
1x Ballast
1x Fully Customized Differential
1x Racing Muffler
1x Racing (Slotted Disk) Brakes

View attachment 1141365
Click to expand...



hollowkatt
Set your downforce F = 50 R = 200
Set your Output to 99
Set your Ballast to 200 and put it at position -50. This is to make up for not having any front downforce. It's gonna help.

Set your Ride Height to be 150 F and 155 R. Basically make it look like the pictures above.

For the race:

TRC = 1
Fuel Map = 1. You won't run out, trust me.

The first 5-10 laps or so are chasing down the leader and getting yourself into position to take the lead when he pits. Not sure who it was but they pitted on Lap 9.

You're going to want to be hitting somewhere between 1:34 and 1:39 for lap times, it'll be fast enough, trust me.

Once the leader pits basically stay out till you are passed the halfway time marker, then dive into the pits. Take tires b/c this circuit ruins the front right tire faster than anything else.
Take enough fuel to make it to the end of the race. I put in 21 laps worth on my stop, finished with somewhere around 3ish left. You can cut it closer if you want to. I wouldn't.

So the leader pits, you stay out. You pit. I came out of the pits in 6th and was back in the lead within the next 5-9 laps or so. Again from there just cruise. They cannot catch you, you set amazing sector times in the fiddly bits.

Here's the hot tip though: On the two long straights you WILL want to brake at the 200 marker. While the racing disks are good you're using the Normal brake pads. They'll lock up if you brake much harder than that. Maybe if you wanna fiddle with the PP to get the Brake Balance controller that's your call. I didn't care that much.

Anyways, this tune is super simple, the car drives like a dream, you're never actually in danger of losing, it's a gimme race for sure.

Like I said at the beginning, if you're lazy and want a gimme use this tune. If you want close competition and strategy and not knowing for sure you're going to win, drive something else.

Me? I'm lazy AF.

@syntex123
Click to expand...

hollowkatt
Deep Forest

Hi There!

My name is Hollowkatt and I am lazy and hate competition.
I use Far Chase Cam, a controller, and automatic transmissions whenever I'm allowed to do so.

If you're like me, check this tune out for the Deep Forest 1 hour endurance race. If you're not like me, or you want a car that isn't going to beat the pants off of the competition by almost 30 seconds, keep scrolling.


For this tune you will need:
1x Alpine A220 Race Car '68
1x Racing Medium Tires
1x Fully Customized Suspension
1x Full Control Computer
1x Ballast
1x Fully Customized Differential
1x Racing Muffler
1x Racing (Slotted Disk) Brakes

View attachment 1141364

View attachment 1141365

View attachment 1141366

Set your downforce F = 50 R = 200
Set your Output to 99
Set your Ballast to 200 and put it at position -50. This is to make up for not having any front downforce. It's gonna help.

Set your Ride Height to be 150 F and 155 R. Basically make it look like the pictures above.

For the race:

TRC = 1
Fuel Map = 1. You won't run out, trust me.

The first 5-10 laps or so are chasing down the leader and getting yourself into position to take the lead when he pits. Not sure who it was but they pitted on Lap 9.

You're going to want to be hitting somewhere between 1:34 and 1:39 for lap times, it'll be fast enough, trust me.

Once the leader pits basically stay out till you are passed the halfway time marker, then dive into the pits. Take tires b/c this circuit ruins the front right tire faster than anything else.
Take enough fuel to make it to the end of the race. I put in 21 laps worth on my stop, finished with somewhere around 3ish left. You can cut it closer if you want to. I wouldn't.

So the leader pits, you stay out. You pit. I came out of the pits in 6th and was back in the lead within the next 5-9 laps or so. Again from there just cruise. They cannot catch you, you set amazing sector times in the fiddly bits.

Here's the hot tip though: On the two long straights you WILL want to brake at the 200 marker. While the racing disks are good you're using the Normal brake pads. They'll lock up if you brake much harder than that. Maybe if you wanna fiddle with the PP to get the Brake Balance controller that's your call. I didn't care that much.

Anyways, this tune is super simple, the car drives like a dream, you're never actually in danger of losing, it's a gimme race for sure.

Like I said at the beginning, if you're lazy and want a gimme use this tune. If you want close competition and strategy and not knowing for sure you're going to win, drive something else.

Me? I'm lazy AF.

@syntex123
Click to expand...
Thanks for this.
What an awesome car!

I already did this mission 3 times before with setups found here but i just couldn't manage to do it, so i went with your setup.
Golded it easily, even after being spun out twice when re-joining the track after the pitstop.

On to the next one now, Alsace
 
syntex123
Sorry @EmilThaudal - gonna quote you seven times and @mention you the same amount of times. :lol:




























Anyone have more Red Bull Ring car strategies?
Click to expand...

My 3.0CSL at 450pp is 160hp(157bhp?), and 2630lbs(1193kg). I'm not able to add the third weight reduction stage, and only have Engine Balance Tuning. I'm using a wide body, but I'm unable to reproduce your pp for said setup. Any ideas?
 
I’m sorry for my absence! Juggling a whole family with winter vomiting disease, moving to a new house, livery editor competition, and this.. gets a little much sometimes.
I’ll update OP as soon as I can, in the next couple of days. Unless a moderator can help me out in the meantime.

pedronfdsantos
Spa 1h best tune?
Click to expand...
This is not a Human Comedy endurance race, but all endurances might be added eventually..
jjmcubed
My 3.0CSL at 450pp is 160hp(157bhp?), and 2630lbs(1193kg). I'm not able to add the third weight reduction stage, and only have Engine Balance Tuning. I'm using a wide body, but I'm unable to reproduce your pp for said setup. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Ask the creator, @EmilThaudal :)
 
i have a car for the alsace race where i won it fairly easily. made a tread to, forgot abput this treadxD but i picked the Lancia Stratos for it's light weight and is maneuverability. used Praiano's setup of the 550 PP and detuned it to 450. i tried 2 setups.
1 with increase the weight to put the car at 1 ton for more hp and the other without the weights. went with the light setup for the fuel saving and i did the best laps with it. and as i found out it saves fuel really good without needing to change the fuel saving

Gran Turismo™ 7_20220501163034.jpg

Gran Turismo™ 7_20220501163955.jpg

Gran Turismo™ 7_20220501164016.jpg



this time posed it in the right thread
 

Similar threads

Barareklam
Gold on Easy on Tsukuba Human Comedy
Replies
26
Views
30K
Meythia
Meythia
E
The Human Comedy - Guide for all races
14 15 16
Replies
470
Views
347K
Chris30
Chris30
B
The Human Comedy 8 - Gr.3 Lake Maggiore
36 37 38
Replies
1K
Views
235K
ottis911
O
Mistah_MCA
The World's Most Okay Tunes
2 3
Replies
72
Views
45K
Mistah_MCA
Mistah_MCA
GT PRO-AM
GT3/LMGT3 tunes
Replies
2
Views
5K
GT PRO-AM
GT PRO-AM

Latest Posts

Back