The Logitech Driving Force Pro Thread.

  • Thread starter Darin
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BuggyBoy did you have too, im right in the middle of lunch! :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :scared:

Never said you had to like it, its what you got, you got to make the best of it. ;)
 
Hi, I recently bought a driving force pro too and I have the same deadzone Buggy Boy is talking about.
GTXLR
If he was suffering no resistance or feedback in the central zone, I believe his wheel was knackered.
But if it was merely a zone of less resistance, as you say then I believe, this is a consiquence of PD using the feedback and resistance, to simulate many different aspects.
Click to expand...
Sometimes my wheel is shaking from left to right on a straight but when I center it, it stops shaking, is it supposed to stop?

And somewhere in this thread, Tacet_blue said, that one of his friends was doing a license test(Xanavi Skyline on Fuji) and when the test began the wheel almost shook out of his hands on the main straight.
My wheel doesn't even start shaking. :S
 
Pak
Hi, I recently bought a driving force pro too and I have the same deadzone Buggy Boy is talking about.

Sometimes my wheel is shaking from left to right on a straight but when I center it, it stops shaking, is it supposed to stop?

And somewhere in this thread, Tacet_blue said, that one of his friends was doing a license test(Xanavi Skyline on Fuji) and when the test began the wheel almost shook out of his hands on the main straight.
My wheel doesn't even start shaking. :S
Click to expand...


Firstly do you have the game set up, and saved with feed back set to strong.
Secondly there is an Option to turn the wheel into 100% Force feed back mode, its default at 60, Once set it remains even when machine is off, but can be returned to default by pressing the key combo again, The method of doing this is in this thread somewhere, cant quite remember it off hand.
The adjustments here make a great deal of inpact on the feel of the wheel.

The shaking on Fuji happens in select cars.
The best one to show it is the Mclaren F1GTR in prologue, when you get to about 275KMH the wheel should start to shake, and if you dont hold on can be quite ferocious.

With the weaker settings, the Resistance will be much less, and you probably can prevent shaking just by holding it, but with all the wheel settings cranked up to the max, It should feel likes its going to jump out of your hand.


Edit:
If it truly is a dead zone where nothing happens, EVER across that range of the wheel then the wheel is faulty.
Try sitting stationary at the start of the race and turn the wheeel lock to lock, the wheel should just feel like theres little resistance, all the way through the lock.
If when you do this you still feel that the dead zone has less resistance, then i have to say this has to be a problem with the wheel, because mine feels the same right through lock to lock when stationary.
It does however not feel quite right, much too light, like over powered steering or the car having no static weight.

If it does feel the same, then this is what the initial steering reaction/feedback feels like in the game as standard, its only when all the other elements start to come through in the Games FF engine (that i talked about in the earlier post) that resistance and feedback increase.

Another test is to try and weave in a turn, unstable the car weaving back and forth and youll feel that the Lighter resistance zone moves, this is because its simulating the point at which the weight transfer of the car becomes neutral, although this zone will feel smaller because the movement of the body is constant, and the neutral zone is only passed through briefly.
 
GTXLR
Secondly there is an Option to turn the wheel into 100% Force feed back mode, its default at 60, Once set it remains even when machine is off, but can be returned to default by pressing the key combo again, The method of doing this is in this thread somewhere, cant quite remember it off hand
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken, you hold down Select + L3 + L1 (Left Paddle Shifter)...

If I'm wrong about this, then I'm sure someone else will correct me!
 
GTXLR
Firstly do you have the game set up, and saved with feed back set to strong.
Secondly there is an Option to turn the wheel into 100% Force feed back mode, its default at 60, Once set it remains even when machine is off, but can be returned to default by pressing the key combo again, The method of doing this is in this thread somewhere, cant quite remember it off hand.
The adjustments here make a great deal of inpact on the feel of the wheel.

The shaking on Fuji happens in select cars.
The best one to show it is the Mclaren F1GTR in prologue, when you get to about 275KMH the wheel should start to shake, and if you dont hold on can be quite ferocious.

With the weaker settings, the Resistance will be much less, and you probably can prevent shaking just by holding it, but with all the wheel settings cranked up to the max, It should feel likes its going to jump out of your hand.


Edit:
If it truly is a dead zone where nothing happens, EVER across that range of the wheel then the wheel is faulty.
Try sitting stationary at the start of the race and turn the wheeel lock to lock, the wheel should just feel like theres little resistance, all the way through the lock.
If when you do this you still feel that the dead zone has less resistance, then i have to say this has to be a problem with the wheel, because mine feels the same right through lock to lock when stationary.
It does however not feel quite right, much too light, like over powered steering or the car having no static weight.

If it does feel the same, then this is what the initial steering reaction/feedback feels like in the game as standard, its only when all the other elements start to come through in the Games FF engine (that i talked about in the earlier post) that resistance and feedback increase.

Another test is to try and weave in a turn, unstable the car weaving back and forth and youll feel that the Lighter resistance zone moves, this is because its simulating the point at which the weight transfer of the car becomes neutral, although this zone will feel smaller because the movement of the body is constant, and the neutral zone is only passed through briefly.
Click to expand...
Hey thanks, I tried a couple of things and it shake like mad in 180degree mode. I also don't have a deadzone in 180degree mode but it still doesn't shake in 900degree mode. :S
 
Pak
Hey thanks, I tried a couple of things and it shake like mad in 180degree mode. I also don't have a deadzone in 180degree mode but it still doesn't shake in 900degree mode. :S
Click to expand...

If you turned the ingame force feedback option to Strong, and you set the wheel to 100% feedback mode and it doesnt shake like a b#tch at around 300kmh on fuji in the Mclaren in Prologue, it seems a bit suspect.
 
GTXLR
If you turned the ingame force feedback option to Strong, and you set the wheel to 100% feedback mode and it doesnt shake like a b#tch at around 300kmh on fuji in the Mclaren in Prologue, it seems a bit suspect.
Click to expand...
As I said, only in 180degree mode. :'(
I wonder what's wrong.
 
The wheel's not faulty. If you're using 180 mode when you should be using 900 mode the calibration will make it shake like that. And in GT3 and Concept it will do this regardless, even in Prologue. It's because the wheel wasn't centred when the force feedback engaged (e.g., pior to gameplay commencing).
 
The wheel's not faulty. If you're using 180 mode when you should be using 900 mode the calibration will make it shake like that. And in GT3 and Concept it will do this regardless, even in Prologue. It's because the wheel wasn't centred when the force feedback engaged (e.g., pior to gameplay commencing).
 
Lapdog
The wheel's not faulty. If you're using 180 mode when you should be using 900 mode the calibration will make it shake like that. And in GT3 and Concept it will do this regardless, even in Prologue. It's because the wheel wasn't centred when the force feedback engaged (e.g., pior to gameplay commencing).
Click to expand...
And what about shaking in 900 degree mode? I don't have this but other people do. :\
 
Buggy Boy
<snip>
The question is not replied however. It should be logical that GT4 allows this setting, as the wheel has been developped for GT4 AFAIK.

<snip>
Click to expand...

Could GT3 and other games be trying to apply DF FF specs to the DFP? And for some odd reason the DF has a dead zone that needs to be applied whereas the DFP doesn't?

Dunno, just trying to throw some ideas out there.

And most of the racing/driving games (PC) that I've seen have deadzones on all axis and they work on my MOMO Racing (black) - I get, in essesnce, what you're getting on your PS2.
 
Hmm, I found out my wheel doesn't have a true deadzone.
When I leave it centered and drive over grass the wheel starts shaking, but not very hard.
But the wheel(in 900degree mode) still doesn't shake hard on fuji main straight.
Am I the only one here with this problem?
 
Jedi2016
Honestly? It doesn't have any, at least not for any console.
Click to expand...

*think again buddy* :)

6000_05_m.jpg
 
I know overstock.com has this wheel for 80 dollars reconditioned has anyone had any problem s and/or do you know of a better place to buy?
 
that wheel is one of the best money can buy... but it doesn't have force feedback and of course.. it doesn't work with the PS2. the pedals for that wheel do not work with the PS2 either... but they have pedals FOR the DFP. expensive.. worth evry penny, they'll last you a life time. (i bought mine there.)
 
isamu
There is a *fix* for that too. You can throw your old Logi pedals away now :)
Click to expand...


yeah, i had trouble deciding between that fix and the frex fix... :-D

in the end i went for the ECCI (can't go wrong either way!). because their pedals remind me more of regular cars, while the FREX pedals look like supercar pedals (VERY cool looking. but in GT4 you play regular cars most of the time!:P).
it pretty much came down to "what would i drive more... a regular car. or a mclaren F1" (i swear, the mclaren F1 pedals look allmost exactly the same, in EVRY way!)

again, can't go wrong either way, buy either and you'll be one happy (and broke) driver ^_^
 
SaintKamus
that wheel is one of the best money can buy... but it doesn't have force feedback and of course.. it doesn't work with the PS2. the pedals for that wheel do not work with the PS2 either... but they have pedals FOR the DFP. expensive.. worth evry penny, they'll last you a life time. (i bought mine there.)
Click to expand...

Actually, they do work for the PS2 & I've got an email from them confirming this..So, for clarification, these are the pedals that do work and they plug into the wheel (DFP) just like the stock pedals do.
Basic unit is $279, while fully equipped is $359 & includes their Progressive Module Brake Pedal..which is described as..

..."An ECCI exclusive innovation. Unlike other simulation controllers, ECCI's PMB-II provides pedal operation with the true feel of an automobile brake. Unlike other simply-sprung pedal controls, that work on a distance-traveled principle, the PMB-II works on a pressure-applied principle. The result is far more intuitive and realistic brake application. This makes avoiding lock-up at maximum braking far easier, and allows more attention to be paid to hitting the optimal cornering line.."
Click to expand...

:)
 
you could just be ghetto like me and plug in one of your old wheels and use those old pedals as it as clutch. GT4/3 dont have clutch detection as far as i know so im speaking about PC games. :P i just did it in live for speed today and its awsome. :)
 
This has probably been asked before, but is there actually a list somewhere that lists games fully compatible with 900 degree mode? And ONLY 900 degree mode? There are lists that say "900 degrees" at the top, but it lists games like GT3 (which does NOT support 900), and other games that are a lot older than the wheel itself.

I know GT4 supports it (duh, that's what it was made for), and TOCA2. What about NFSU2? Are there any others at all?

I'm thinking of picking up NFSU2, but since I'm on the fence about it, 900 support will probably be the deciding factor.
 

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