The Logitech Driving Force Pro Thread.

  • Thread starter Darin
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er... dont u mean 200 degree mode :) ? Its because the DFP was designed to be played using 900 degrees with GT4, and when you switch to 200 degrees, it just compresses the sensativity.
 
can any one tell me please. does GTR on the PC support FFP wheel 900' rotation? so far ive found that using the latest wingman drivers its only got support for 200' rotation.

oddly enough i bought the FFP for GT4, due to not having a cockpit setup for my TV i have only used it so far on the PC with NFSU2 and GTR :(
 
Gabkicks
For some games you can turn force feedback off, or just unplug the power source. For the PC, you can turn the force feedback really low. 👍


on the pc you can turn the FFB completely off (like i do). in the control panel >> game controlers >> properties button, uncheck the enable FFB check box. :dopey:
 
Workaccess,
make sure you have the latest 4.6 Beta drivers for your DFP.
And I think you can set the lock on the wheel in GTR to use the 900 degrees.
 
live4speed
While paused in a race or on any menu screen press and hold Select + R3 + R1 (the right tiny paddle behind the wheel) and the green light on the right side on the wheel will go out indicating your now in 300 degree mode.


that's the key stroke for 200deg mode and it's not even 200 it's 180 (90+90=200??) 💡
 
TigJackson
This is certainly true under normal circumstances.
However, I wake up very early most days, and on those days that I decide to run a few races with the volume turned down (so as not to wake the family), the noise from the wheel is VERY loud....loud enough to wake the family in fact.


dude i'm with ya! this is my first wheel as i used to play with the MS Sidewinder game pad, so i had tons of 2am laps before this wheel so i know what you mean.

i have pics of the wheel opened up that i'll post when i get home. i know there is a few in this thread somewhere though.

i don't even like FFB i'm so tempted to take the gearing out of it all together to make it silent and smooth but i fear that if i do that it won't calobrate right and after looking at it, the optical wheel is fitted off the FFB motor gearing 👎

so i'm not sure how i will handle it but yeah, i've had thoughts of removing the FFB all together!! :crazy:
 
BenW
Workaccess,
make sure you have the latest 4.6 Beta drivers for your DFP.
And I think you can set the lock on the wheel in GTR to use the 900 degrees.


...or anything in between. i've played with 540, 600, 360,340, and i'm currently using it in the 300 range.

i've heard in the FREX forum though that these new driver place weird deadzones in the pedles so look into that before up grading to these if you're a FREXer.
 
MotZodd
dude i'm with ya! this is my first wheel as i used to play with the MS Sidewinder game pad, so i had tons of 2am laps before this wheel so i know what you mean.

i have pics of the wheel opened up that i'll post when i get home. i know there is a few in this thread somewhere though.

i don't even like FFB i'm so tempted to take the gearing out of it all together to make it silent and smooth but i fear that if i do that it won't calobrate right and after looking at it, the optical wheel is fitted off the FFB motor gearing 👎

so i'm not sure how i will handle it but yeah, i've had thoughts of removing the FFB all together!! :crazy:


Maybe this is a daft suggestion, but have you tried unplugging the wheel from the wall after the calibration step? Maybe the power cord is only for the FFB...
 
MotZodd
...or anything in between. i've played with 540, 600, 360,340, and i'm currently using it in the 300 range.

i've heard in the FREX forum though that these new driver place weird deadzones in the pedles so look into that before up grading to these if you're a FREXer.


I use 270*° for GTR. and 540° for Richard Burns Rally on the pc. :)
 
:grumpy: :grumpy: 👎
My wheel is even worse now. It makes several loud clicking noises when rotating from left lock to centre, and when rotating from centre to right with high friction it feels extremely notchy and grindy (as bad as the Driving Force), but when turning from centre to left under the same friction it is smooth.

I'm starting to think Logitech really f$#!%d up on this piece of hardware. I'll persist to fix the thing myself until it performs as I want it to, but only cause there's nothing else on the market that uses 900 degrees and has FF.

For $300 they sure managed to manufacture some low-grade equipment.
 
FIDO69
Maybe this is a daft suggestion, but have you tried unplugging the wheel from the wall after the calibration step? Maybe the power cord is only for the FFB...


for sure the power cord is only for FFB but it would be SILKY smooth (and just about silent) if i took out the gearing, but this same gearing also works the optical gear so i can't just omit the FFB motor >> wheel shaft like i originaly thought. :scared:
 
hey guys, how can i tell if i have the newer version of the DFP? i just bought it yesterday, but on the box it says GT4 is coming soon... i can't return it, i just don't want this thing to crap out on me anytime soon...

and also, when counter-steering fast, wheel gets very loud, is this ok? sounds like it's going to break...
 
anyone recommend a decent cockpit setup available in the UK. ive looked at the gamepod, game racer and vision racer homepages. has anyone got the game racer? my thoughts are leading me towards the game pod as it doesnt have the central bar preventing problems with right foot breaking.
 
WorksAccess
anyone recommend a decent cockpit setup available in the UK. ive looked at the gamepod, game racer and vision racer homepages. has anyone got the game racer? my thoughts are leading me towards the game pod as it doesnt have the central bar preventing problems with right foot breaking.

With the vision racer going for ₤399….I’d check out a company called Nixim and their Racecraft Polecat…....additional info can be found here...
NOTE: The diff. between the Polecat & the Racecraft GT is that the GT model has the two additional speaker stands....

Pricing is ₤362.00 but this does not include the Cobra racing seat…which you may be able to pick up for a pretty good deal somewhere else…

Now, pricing WITH the racing seat is ₤479.00….which I think is a better deal then the Vision Racer…but this is also just my opinion… :)

In order of preference, I'd rank them as:
First: Nixim Polecat
Second: Nixim Racecraft GT
Third: Game Pod GT2
Fourth: Game Pod GT1
Fifth: Vision Racer

Hope this helps?

SimRaceDriver
 
dreamnshadow
hey guys, how can i tell if i have the newer version of the DFP? i just bought it yesterday, but on the box it says GT4 is coming soon... i can't return it, i just don't want this thing to crap out on me anytime soon...

and also, when counter-steering fast, wheel gets very loud, is this ok? sounds like it's going to break...


hahaha yup that's a normal sound :nervous: SHHWEEEE.... SHWEERRRR

to get a verion number look on the back of the plactic bag with the manual in. there will be a sticker with "vA0" or "vB00" you're wanting the vB00! 👍
 
Support for the multitude of problems this item has is almost nonexistant in australia.

EB :crazy: :indiff: has a disgusting policy of demanding a deposit for warranty repair of the item if you wish to persevere with the problems while you wait because logitec can no longer supply a stock of the item. Too many must have broken down! :banghead:
:grumpy: :grumpy: :grumpy: :mad: :mad: :mad: 🤬 🤬 :grumpy:
Pedals aren't the only problem - I have had to return two for this. Gear chage flipper has also given up, changing two or three gears up when used instead of one. This makes your vehicle uncompetative.

A huge mistake to design a wheel as the only peripheral that works effectively with the gt4 game. Now that the wheel is so unreliable that the good advances made in this game have been completely countermanded by the lack of care that has gone into the hardware. :grumpy:

I needed to get that off my chest

The admins of this forum would not yet post this as a separate thread to DFP wheel.
This forum on DFP is too big and not a good resource to search any information from IMHO :grumpy:
I may have to drop the game and advertise the short comings of the devices to all who will listen
 
WorksAccess
anyone recommend a decent cockpit setup available in the UK. ive looked at the gamepod, game racer and vision racer homepages. has anyone got the game racer? my thoughts are leading me towards the game pod as it doesnt have the central bar preventing problems with right foot breaking.

You're better off building your own. Check out this thread & good luck.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=55048
 
This thread is unbelievable. I'm so glad I didn't blow $150 on one of those POS turkeys. What a disaster the DFP is turning out to be...
 
Zardoz
This thread is unbelievable. I'm so glad I didn't blow $150 on one of those POS turkeys. What a disaster the DFP is turning out to be...


I must admit that it's the best $150 I've ever spent ... the wheel knocks the spots off anything else out there and TRANSFORMS your driving experience. I simply would not race without it.
 
Kolyana
I must admit that it's the best $150 I've ever spent ... the wheel knocks the spots off anything else out there and TRANSFORMS your driving experience. I simply would not race without it.

You are soooo right. I cant stand the controller anymore...
 
I have to agree here, I also had pedals replaced and to be honest expect that I'll have to do that again?

But, I would spend another 110Euro on the wheel!
 
Ok, I took the cover off my DFP and the design inside is pretty simple to understand. It turns out that clicking noise I was complaining about is just the rack rattling up and down about a milimeter when it slides along during wheel rotation. The metal tabs that are supposed to hold it down are just not low enough to hold it in tight. A thick gob of vaseline will surely correct that noise.

As for the noiseyness and roughness when turning the wheel fast, I'm going to spray some RD7 on the main wheel gear, the rack & pinion, and the 3 gears in the FFB motor. I'll report back on results. I also have some lubricating oil for gears which I will try as well if the RD7 doesnt help much (although RD7 is supposed to be the best for removing noise and squeaks from moving parts).

I agree with what people are saying though, with the DFP being a botched release by Logitech (especially if you live in Australia - Logitech doesn't even sell the device, Sony imports it, and all warranty claims must be done through the retailer who then order from Sony and THEN replace your faulty unit).

I have to say though that almost every mechanical and electronic device I've ever owned has needed some tweaking of some sort. Computers, TV's, cars, PS2, the DFP....all of these things have needed some self-repairs at some stage. I have learned over the last couple of years not to have any faith in new devices/machines working flawlessly, they simply will become faulty at some stage in their lifespan, so you might as well figure out how to make it perform to your own standards.

Also, someone mentioned the VB00 label on the manual bag. Mine is VB00, so anything I've said about fixing the pedals or wheel applies to that version. I think there is a newer version than the VB00 (Werner Winkels mentioned it somewhere).
 
foghorn_100
Pedals aren't the only problem - I have had to return two for this. Gear chage flipper has also given up, changing two or three gears up when used instead of one. This makes your vehicle uncompetative.

The shift stick comes off when you remove the cover, allowing you to re-set it into it's spring holders. Doing that will probably fix the problem. Or do you mean the paddles?


foghorn_100
A huge mistake to design a wheel as the only peripheral that works effectively with the gt4 game. Now that the wheel is so unreliable that the good advances made in this game have been completely countermanded by the lack of care that has gone into the hardware. :grumpy:

I recently got Richard Burns Rally on ps2 and I was surprised to find the DFP has been implemented perfectly for it. You can select how many degrees you want (in increments of 45 degrees). I use 540 for RBR :D

That said, it was a disappointment to play all previous games (eg. Colin McRae 3, 04, 2005) in lame-ass 180degrees mode (on my DFP it's more like 160degrees actually :( ). I think in the future most racing developers will provide good support for this wheel.

You are right though, little care has gone into making the hardware reliable. The $299 price tag is just an insult.
 
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