The Logitech Driving Force Pro Thread.

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I have not checked here in a while now but I am having problems with my DFP on my PC and this is the best place to get help.

I started off my downloading the game drivers from the Logitech website. They were version 4.60. Then I plugged in my DFP and it registered as a Driving Force (non-pro). Then I tried the profiler and it couldn't detect my wheel. So, I came here and saw that the version listen on the first page was 4.40 so I downloaded the older version and made the switch to the older version. The wheel registered as a DFP. Yay. BUT the profiler doesn't work. I went into the game controllers section of Control Panel and into the DFP preferences.... the gas and brake aren't registering correctly. They are registering as part of the steering... not as the pedals. What the hell is going on?

Is the wheel usable like this?
Anyone have a solution?

Thanks in advance!!!
 
Alright, I know that I didn't give you guys to long to help me out but without a TV in the room that I have the wheel setup I really needed a racing fix.

After reading lots and lots I found out that the new drivers 4.60 have FULL SUPPORT for the Driving Force Pro on the PC. I uninstalled the older drivers (yet another uninstall) and reinstalled the new ones. Bam! It detected my wheel and everything. Seems great. Playing LiveForSpeed, GTR... the works!

I believe my error was that I installed the Logitech gaming software before I plugged in the usb cable. Something that simple caused all that agony! Computers are so stupid. Oi Vey! Anyway. Hope this helps someone else out there!
 
dont flame me on this... but this might have been asked already... but i cant anything in search...anyway, how do i disable the force feedback on the wheel?
thanks
 
Onikaze
an electric motor is a piece of magnetic material surrounded by wires with an electromagnetic charge, when you overpower it you aren't actually grinding or forcing anything to rub or grind against anything else, just overcoming the magnetic force.

Luckily, the magnetic force is well...currently unbreakable, so there is no worry there, the only parts that you could actually break are the actual spindle that it rotates around, and that would take shearing stress, not twisting stress.


you can burn out the commutator ( the place where the brushes rub that charges the electro magnets that spin the motor) or the brushes themselves. also if you stop the motor in the right (wrong) spot, two sections of the commutator can connect at once (although rare) and that's not good at all!

i know what i said was overly cautious. i'm pretty hard on my wheel and never really think about burning anything up. but people asked if it was bad on the FFB motor and i said it wasn't the greatest for it. because technically speaking it's not good. that's all. but hey, even if ya do cook the motor, it's easy to replace with another one! 👍
 
BeatRippaa
dont flame me on this... but this might have been asked already... but i cant anything in search...anyway, how do i disable the force feedback on the wheel?
thanks


WorksAccess
read the first post in this thread its a combo on the wheel

the wheel combo is to toggle the FF from 100% to 60%. to completely disable the FF, go into the game controlers control panel and click settings then uncheck the box for FF. depending on the game you can disable it in-game as well, but the control panel will globaly disable it, no matter what the in-game settings are.
 
MotZodd
the wheel combo is to toggle the FF from 100% to 60%. to completely disable the FF, go into the game controlers control panel and click settings then uncheck the box for FF. depending on the game you can disable it in-game as well, but the control panel will globaly disable it, no matter what the in-game settings are.

Just wondering, do the control panel settings affect the wheel itself, or only games in the windoze environment? Like, can I change settings and then use the wheel on the PS2 with those settings?
 
Ikari_San
Just wondering, do the control panel settings affect the wheel itself, or only games in the windoze environment? Like, can I change settings and then use the wheel on the PS2 with those settings?


Nope its a Windoze only setting. that would be cool though and have a "flash firmware" button! haha that why the setting would be IN the wheel itself!
 
HURRAY!

I got my DFP finally.

Everything is in working order, pedal travel is smooth, feedback is shockingly good, and the gears sound fine, quieter than I was expecting...

Man...it is shocking how something like this can turn a simple cruise around Tsukuba in a Miata into a challenging and rewarding experience.
 
Should I buy Driving Force Pro or are they going to release a new version of it?
I mean like a new project, with another name.

Otherwise 200 dollars is maybe expensive should I buy it? Is it worth this?
Or should I wait for another rear?
 
andromada
Help please, waiting for one day


i'd get it now. i hear there is a Rev C but no real evidence of that. i have versions A and B.

chances are you'll get rev B if you order now. check the web you will get a better price than 200. i got mine from NewEgg for like $113.
 
MotZodd
i'd get it now. i hear there is a Rev C but no real evidence of that. i have versions A and B.

chances are you'll get rev B if you order now. check the web you will get a better price than 200. i got mine from NewEgg for like $113.
I don't really understand this, I didn't know that there were three versions of this wheel. What's the difference between them? Thanks.
 
Hey,

I've been using my DFP for a little bit on my PC now and I can't get the pedals to register as two seperate axis. In the logitech profiler they don't react to the pedal pushing like the rest of the buttons either. I would really like to be able to put a little break on while pushing the gas as well... I do it in Gran Turismo 4 all the time, but that's PS2... not PC.

So, please help. :D
 
They look the same, just the hardware has been revised on the inside. REVA and B almost certainly will develop the pedal fault, while REVC is supposed to have the problem fixed.

There are other problems like double up-shifting when using the paddles, and some wheels not turning on properly or dieing and then not re-calibrating properly. It's a bit of a mess at the moment, it's been 5 months since the game was released and they still can't get the wheel right. Someone at Logitech/PD (whoever's responsible for the testing) should lose their job over this.
 
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Check out the link to the competition and Good Luck!! http://www.gt4league.com/qualifying/
 
andromada
I don't really understand this, I didn't know that there were three versions of this wheel. What's the difference between them? Thanks.


Version A has the tiny plastic POTs in the pedels (this is where the "pedel problem" came from).

Version B has revised mounts for the POTs but they also upgraded them to the beefy metal ones simular if not identical to FREX's upgrade.

Version C is urban legend to me. not sure what C is.
 
Twenty_Se7en
Hey,

I've been using my DFP for a little bit on my PC now and I can't get the pedals to register as two seperate axis. In the logitech profiler they don't react to the pedal pushing like the rest of the buttons either. I would really like to be able to put a little break on while pushing the gas as well... I do it in Gran Turismo 4 all the time, but that's PS2... not PC.

So, please help. :D

I had the same strange problem today. Try recalibrating your game in the WIngman Profiler. ANd if that doesnt work, Uninstall the profiler and use that Calibration clearer utility on the wingman website. then reinstall and callibrate everything.. Those are the only 2 ways i know.
 
Gabkicks
I had the same strange problem today. Try recalibrating your game in the WIngman Profiler. ANd if that doesnt work, Uninstall the profiler and use that Calibration clearer utility on the wingman website. then reinstall and callibrate everything.. Those are the only 2 ways i know.


make sure you check the "game controler" properties in the control panel settings.

there is a check box that lets you choose between combined and seperate pedal. for seperate, UNcheck the "combined pedals" box. 👍
 
I got my wheel off Ebay, but I was wondering since I don't have the box (it was repackaged for shipping) it came with, is there any way at all to check and see which version I have?

There is a model number (M/N and like 7 digits) on a sticker under the back of the wheel mount, has anyone checked to see if those match up to the different REV B00 and whatnot?
 
Onikaze
I got my wheel off Ebay, but I was wondering since I don't have the box (it was repackaged for shipping) it came with, is there any way at all to check and see which version I have?

There is a model number (M/N and like 7 digits) on a sticker under the back of the wheel mount, has anyone checked to see if those match up to the different REV B00 and whatnot?

it's funny, the P/N and S/N on the wheel don't always match the Pedals :dunce:

so go by what's on the pedals as Logi clasifies them as different "parts". i can look through my pedal slots (where the pedal arms go threw the top cover) and see the shine of the medal pots. if you can't see them after looking at different angles and w/ plenty of light them chances are you have Rev A.

you *could* always take the pedals apart to see. tiny plastic square pots= revA big circular pots=revB.
 
Ikari_San
...or read the sticker on the instruction bag.


I got it on Ebay.

It didn't have the box or the bag.

It was repackaged for shipping.

If I could just read the stickers, I wouldn't be asking if there was any other possible way to check, but thanks for assuming I'm a moron. 👍


But yeah, there is a piece of plastic blocking direct view and then behind it I can indeed see shiny brass potentiometers...

Hurray! I think...

The Metal ones are good...right?
 
Sorry, didn't mean to imply you were a moron.

Yeah, metal ones are good, that's REVB00 which is what I have. Still needed to fix my pedals though because there's nothing really holding the potentiometers in.
 
Ikari_San
Sorry, didn't mean to imply you were a moron.

Yeah, metal ones are good, that's REVB00 which is what I have. Still needed to fix my pedals though because there's nothing really holding the potentiometers in.


"bulk up" either the pad that is on the ARM knuckle or where it hits the base unit. this will shorten the "throw" of the pedals enough so you don't over extend the POTS.
 
The pots on mine weren't over extending, the pot wires were rubbing against eachother between gas and brake pedals causing the brake to flicker on and off when pressing the accelerator. It was pretty easy to fix with a bit of tape to hold the wires down.
 
Im thinking about going out and getting it i have the 150 and am about to go to eb what i want to know is how good is it realy to driving a real car, responsive wise dose it feel tight like you have FULL control?

so basicaly yes or no dose it feel like your realy behind the wheel
 
Yes.

I like it far better then the DS2 (PS2 Controller) you get much more control over the car and I just, in general, think it's alot more fun. I'd say a yes.
 
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