The Logitech Driving Force Pro Thread.

  • Thread starter Darin
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EB :crazy: :indiff: has a disgusting policy of demanding a deposit for warranty repair of the item if you wish to persevere with the problems while you wait because logitec can no longer supply a stock of the item. Too many must have broken down! :banghead:

I have the sticky brake problem as well!
I rang logitech today, only to be told to ring sony, who told me to take it to place of purchase. I rang EB, the guy there was very helpful, and admits the DFP has big problems, he would'nt exchange mine as there is no stock available, but offered to refund my original purchase.
I then have to wait until the end of May for the next shipment into Australia.

I am going to the shop tommorrow to do as above, and I will put an order in for the next shipment which I hope has fixed the problems.
 
cruiser789
So why then does EB have no stock?????????????

Have they already sold out of the 13 April shipment
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Sorry, it was 13 May not April.....which was yesterday!

That was the date given to me over the phone about 2 weeks ago. If there's still no stock in the next week then it must've been delayed AGAIN (Sony has been delaying it since February, apparently).

Hang in there. I'm waiting for more stock to replace mine too, it shouldn't be much longer. If the shipment has taken this long it might mean Logitech are not shipping any more "REVB00" units due to the large number of warranty claims, so we may end up getting the latest REV which has a new internal pedal design.
 
FOlks, I am simply loving my Driving Force Pro to death!...In fact, Im so happy with it that I was wondering if any of you computer techi geeks got this steering wheel to work with the XBOX with some sort of converter or moddification??

I'd love to use this with FORZA......and while we are on the topic of FORZA, have any of you Driving Purists been able to make comparisons between the driving physics in Forza compared to the physics in GT4?

I know Forza has better AI but I was wondering how you all feel about how FOrza compares to GT 4 in the following areas:

Engine Sounds
Driving Physics
Weight Transfer
Cornering
Braking
Car visuals and realistic replays and actions of motion
Overall Feel of driving


anyone care to compare the two to each other?

thank you so much guys!
 
Ikari_San
Sorry, it was 13 May not April.....which was yesterday!

That was the date given to me over the phone about 2 weeks ago. If there's still no stock in the next week then it must've been delayed AGAIN (Sony has been delaying it since February, apparently).

Hang in there. I'm waiting for more stock to replace mine too, it shouldn't be much longer. If the shipment has taken this long it might mean Logitech are not shipping any more "REVB00" units due to the large number of warranty claims, so we may end up getting the latest REV which has a new internal pedal design.
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I just hope they shipment arrives on time and doesn't get delayed again, I have only done 2.5% of GT4 and was waiting for the DFP to really get into the game, but since getting my wheel, I have only used it a dozen times, and now its unusable due to the pedals.
 
BeatRippaa
im sory if this question has been asked...i wanna know when usin the DFP, is it better/easier to turn than usin a ps2 controller?
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If you like driving a car it is much easier.
You cannot say that you will get faster times with the DFP or with the a controller, as fast times come down to track knowledge and driving precision.
 
DFP > DS2
DS2 is quite sensitive....
most often youll experience turning too much which kills your time abit as that is the main cause for understeer :D
you get ALOT more contorl from the dfp
 
Yes, everybody should know that the DFP is the most superior steering wheel ever to be made (despite Logitech's lack of testing before going to manufacture) and GT4 should only be played with this wheel. Quite simply, GT4 + DS2 = sacrilege.

Regarding where I purchased the wheel, I can't say at the moment...for reasons I can't say! I also cannot comment on what happened when I tried to lubricate the DFP gears. Let's just say, it was a really REALLY good thing, then really bad :ill:
 
Ikari_San
Yes, everybody should know that the DFP is the most superior steering wheel ever to be made (despite Logitech's lack of testing before going to manufacture) and GT4 should only be played with this wheel. Quite simply, GT4 + DS2 = sacrilege.

Regarding where I purchased the wheel, I can't say at the moment...for reasons I can't say! I also cannot comment on what happened when I tried to lubricate the DFP gears. Let's just say, it was a really REALLY good thing, then really bad :ill:
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greasing the gear won't make it smoother. if anything it will add more drag. there's really no stoping the gear mesh noise, esp if the backlash on the gears were minimal, there will always be some drive train noise 💡
 
MotZodd
greasing the gear won't make it smoother. if anything it will add more drag. there's really no stoping the gear mesh noise, esp if the backlash on the gears were minimal, there will always be some drive train noise 💡
Click to expand...

That's not the case, I managed to reduce the noise of mine by 50%! I'm not exaggerating either. The motion was smoother as well, by about 25%

The most noticable difference was the noise when turning the wheel very quickly from lock to lock, it was almost completely silent after lubrication.

I didn't use grease, it was RP7 spray. It's for automotive use, and claims (correctly, might I add) that it will reduce squeaks and lubricates better than grease.

Dammit, I've said too much...the feds are on to me!

*flees*
 
Ikari_San
I also cannot comment on what happened when I tried to lubricate the DFP gears. Let's just say, it was a really REALLY good thing, then really bad :ill:
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so... what was the really bad part? the RP7 stopped the squeaks but ate threw the wiring or something? :nervous:
 
MotZodd
so... what was the really bad part? the RP7 stopped the squeaks but ate threw the wiring or something? :nervous:
Click to expand...

Guess I might as well say....when I was spraying the FF gears I didn't realise I was spraying WAY too much and that it was pooling on the inside of the cover. It was some time after replacing the cover that it started dribbling out through the cracks of the case, minutes later the wheel died....so yes, it must've fried the wiring. But for the 10 minutes that it was working before it died, it was incredibly smooth, quiet and just beautiful to play with! If my new wheel isnt as smooth I'm gonna do the same thing, only using the spray really really carefully of course :D
 
Got my DFP Yesterday and its awesome! I've tried to do a little drifting with it, however, 900degrees is a bit too much for me to turn in order to get the adiquate counter steer. Its probably been mentioned before, but i dont have the time to read 100 pages, anyway is there a way to lock the wheel to 200degrees?
Thank You ver much,
And sorry if its a repeat.
 
gsavill90
Got my DFP Yesterday and its awesome! I've tried to do a little drifting with it, however, 900degrees is a bit too much for me to turn in order to get the adiquate counter steer. Its probably been mentioned before, but i dont have the time to read 100 pages, anyway is there a way to lock the wheel to 200degrees?
Thank You ver much,
And sorry if its a repeat.
Click to expand...


the Search cell is your friend! either way, there's the 200 mode key stroke.

Select + R3 + R1 (the right paddle behind the wheel) and the green light on the right side on the wheel will go out w/ it's done correctly.

you may even here a click.
 
MotZodd
the Search cell is your friend! either way, there's the 200 mode key stroke.

Select + R3 + R1 (the right paddle behind the wheel) and the green light on the right side on the wheel will go out w/ it's done correctly.

you may even here a click.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much. I would have searched, but im in a frenzy of excitment, trying to use it as much as possible. Thanks once again.
 
if you countersteer earlier and smoother, with stable footwork and weight shifting, you should have to do manageble steering work with drifting. 👍
 
sometimes, when counter-steering, i have to do it quickly to correct the car. since there is a lot of resistance, am i doing any damage to the wheel in the long run steering the opposite way the wheel wants to go?

sometimes i spin out after being hit from behind or just rear getting lose because i don't want to be too hard on the steering wheel... too much WHIIIIIIIIR i'm afraid i'm doing harm to my 150$ wheel! :crazy:
 
EB said may 20 in canberra, but would not guarantee me a wheel even though I have taken the option of buying a second wheel off them. I won't do a warranty return on the one i've got untill I have one to replace it with. If the wheels keep breaking down, I should never run out of warranty and should always have a working wheel available.

Logitec gave me a similar runaround and sony weren't interested in supporting this product. EB said to me they would only stock orders, so despite their helpfulness in some franchises, the fact that they intend to carry Zero stock of the wheel is not particularly customer friendly. Logitec are unconcerned that one of their most valued suppliers, EB, arent interested, ipso facto in carrying stock.

Ikari_San
Sorry, it was 13 May not April.....which was yesterday!

That was the date given to me over the phone about 2 weeks ago. If there's still no stock in the next week then it must've been delayed AGAIN (Sony has been delaying it since February, apparently).

Hang in there. I'm waiting for more stock to replace mine too, it shouldn't be much longer. If the shipment has taken this long it might mean Logitech are not shipping any more "REVB00" units due to the large number of warranty claims, so we may end up getting the latest REV which has a new internal pedal design.
Click to expand...
 
dreamnshadow
sometimes, when counter-steering, i have to do it quickly to correct the car. since there is a lot of resistance, am i doing any damage to the wheel in the long run steering the opposite way the wheel wants to go?

sometimes i spin out after being hit from behind or just rear getting lose because i don't want to be too hard on the steering wheel... too much WHIIIIIIIIR i'm afraid i'm doing harm to my 150$ wheel! :crazy:
Click to expand...


i know exactly what you mean! i thought that too. the whiiirrrring is just the gears mesh of the FFB mech. so that's no biggy.

but technically (and i know the wheel was designed to do this) IMHO you ARE shortening the life of the FFB motor. i mean think about it. it's an electric motor. with commutators, static magnets and the electro mag drum... nothing special about it (that i know of) it's just a can motor (think a 540, if that big)... wanting to spin one way and you're FORCING it to turn the other way or holding it from spinning at all. :nervous:

i'm sure you'll get a good say, 2-4 years out of it so it's not that big of deal but in my mind holding an elect. motor from spinning or even spinning it in the oposite direction is not good for it.

i've hear of some wheels even MELTING from the FFB motor getting so hot! :yuck:
 
I've been running into a problem with the DFP wheel when trying to drift. With the 900 degrees on the wheel doesn't seem to come back fast enough for a counter steer, is there a way to make the wheel come back faster? It's almost impossible for my arms to cross as many times as I would need to, to get a drift going. In 200 degree mode, it feels like the cars always understeering, is this normal? Game being played is gt4
 
1. Please don't turn off the 900 degree feature, it's an insult to the hardware. 200 degrees mode won't work properly anyway, it's not calibrated properly for use in 200 degrees (It's not the same as using a 200 degree wheel such as the Driving Force or GT Force).

2. Turning the wheel strongly against the force feedback will not harm it. It's just noise, once lubed up the wheel hardly makes a noise at all. It's got a 2yr warranty anyway. I say, play the crap out of it!

3. Yes, many people don't think the wheel turns back to centre quickly enough. It's an oversight on PD's part as the wheel CAN turn back faster, they just didn't program it that way in GT4. Unfortunately there's no setting to change it. Personally, when rallying I just give the wheel a flick to help it turn back faster.

Regarding turning the wheel in general, try using the "hand over hand" method as you would in a real car. Also, make sure you have the wheel mounted somewhere sturdy, and have the wheel facing at a slightly upwards angle (pointing towards your face, not your body) and at a good height off the ground too. I spent some extra money on some hardware to get the wheel mounted higher and at a better angle, and now it feels a LOT better.


EB said may 20 in canberra
Click to expand...

End of the month is now the "official" date for more stock arriving in the country. Let's hope they get it.
 
Ikari_San
1. Please don't turn off the 900 degree feature, it's an insult to the hardware. 200 degrees mode won't work properly anyway, it's not calibrated properly for use in 200 degrees (It's not the same as using a 200 degree wheel such as the Driving Force or GT Force).

2. Turning the wheel strongly against the force feedback will not harm it. It's just noise, once lubed up the wheel hardly makes a noise at all. It's got a 2yr warranty anyway. I say, play the crap out of it!

3. Yes, many people don't think the wheel turns back to centre quickly enough. It's an oversight on PD's part as the wheel CAN turn back faster, they just didn't program it that way in GT4. Unfortunately there's no setting to change it. Personally, when rallying I just give the wheel a flick to help it turn back faster.

Regarding turning the wheel in general, try using the "hand over hand" method as you would in a real car. Also, make sure you have the wheel mounted somewhere sturdy, and have the wheel facing at a slightly upwards angle (pointing towards your face, not your body) and at a good height off the ground too. I spent some extra money on some hardware to get the wheel mounted higher and at a better angle, and now it feels a LOT better.




End of the month is now the "official" date for more stock arriving in the country. Let's hope they get it.
Click to expand...



i too say play the crap out of it (that's why i got it! :dopey: ) i'm just saying in general, it's not best thing to do for the motor (any motor) but that doesn't stop my from whipping that wheel around! haha it's like driving your electric RC car into a wall and just keeping it pegged in forward stalling the motor, you wouldn't do that cause it's not good for the motor. or pulling the car backwards as you have the controler floored in the forward gear... again, not good. that's all i was saying (i wasn't ever concerned with the noise, that's just gear noise) but in this case it's not like you're using it in a way that the manufacturers didn't intend so screw it! drive it like ya stole it!!

when in 200 mode i think it would be way to sensitive as you're over riding the range the wheel thinks it should be using.

the wheel definatly needs help coming back to center. i do that w/o thinking though because its natural to help it along for me.

wheel really does need something very sturdy to hold down. a normal keyboard tray only works for so long before ya end up tearing it off the rollers! 👎
 
an electric motor is a piece of magnetic material surrounded by wires with an electromagnetic charge, when you overpower it you aren't actually grinding or forcing anything to rub or grind against anything else, just overcoming the magnetic force.

Luckily, the magnetic force is well...currently unbreakable, so there is no worry there, the only parts that you could actually break are the actual spindle that it rotates around, and that would take shearing stress, not twisting stress.
 
the steering is already way too sensaitve in gt4 to the pt. where its almost annoying to simheads like me. You hardly have to turn the wheel at all to get a reaction. I dont see why anyone would even think about using 200 mode. (with the wrc cars as the exception)
 
Onikaze
an electric motor is a piece of magnetic material surrounded by wires with an electromagnetic charge, when you overpower it you aren't actually grinding or forcing anything to rub or grind against anything else, just overcoming the magnetic force.

Luckily, the magnetic force is well...currently unbreakable, so there is no worry there, the only parts that you could actually break are the actual spindle that it rotates around, and that would take shearing stress, not twisting stress.
Click to expand...

Nice resume of the "problem" everybody in this thread fears about! 👍
 
I try.

I have one coming soon, got it off Ebay for $103 (was looking like I would get it for $85-$90 til a couple of snipers popped up and didn't expect my brothers T1 line..muahahahaha!)
 
Ok, there was a mistake in shipping, and they didn't pack the pedals into the box with the wheel, so they are shipping it now...

Until then I was checking to see if the thing worked, and all it does is the right light comes on, and the left light blinks, all the buttons feel fine, sounds like the gears are meshing well, so I'm just checking to see if the wheel by itself is totally unusable right now.

(figured I could just map gas to O and Brake to X and make do til the pedals arrive, but I guess the pedals have a main hook up)
 

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