The Logitech Driving Force Pro Thread.

  • Thread starter Darin
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I have a very odd problem with my DFP, and I dont know what to do. I looked around in this thread but couldnt find a solution to my problem.
I already made a thread about it, but I guess it was the wrong forum.

Anyway thats what I get when I connect my DFP to my computer:

* Computer says DFP is connected
* If I try to enable force feedback/paddles etc. over the windows hardware manager the settings always go back to - no FF and no paddles.
* Calibrating the wheel works, but the pedals and FF work not.
* It works with RFactor, but I dont get any FF and cant adjust and tune the steering at all; wheel feels like dead.
* The Logitech WingMan profile/driver keeps saying that no Logitech product is hooked to my computer.
* There is the special window you get in the windows system Hardware manager in gamecontroller, if I want to add the gamecontroller ''DFP'' I get the error message ''Gameport or Gameportdriver are not properly adjusted''.
* I looked at the Logitech website for drivers but it really puzzles me why the DFP is the only wheel Logitech does not offer support or drivers for. :yuck:
* Changing the standart USB port to USB 2.0 didnt help either

Iam totally LOST!

Its like a loophole, every program/manager/profile says its not responsible for the not-working DFP and some say I dont even have one. :ill:

Is there hope that I can play RFactor with a full working DFP anytime soon?
 
I've had my DFP for some time now. I use it with PC, It's always worked, Put it away for awhile. I took it out today and tried to use it, but it doesnt work, The green lights are both flashing, The wingman controller profiler shows it as being OK! and plug in and all that, but the wheel isnt working, and switching from 200 to 900 deg isnt working either. Is my wheel broken?

Thanks
-Arik
 
Aakburns
I've had my DFP for some time now. I use it with PC, It's always worked, Put it away for awhile. I took it out today and tried to use it, but it doesnt work, The green lights are both flashing, The wingman controller profiler shows it as being OK! and plug in and all that, but the wheel isnt working, and switching from 200 to 900 deg isnt working either. Is my wheel broken?

Thanks
-Arik
Click to expand...
Does it work on your Playstation?
 
Probably the best thread for this:

I just got my DFP today- and WON A RACE AT NURBURGRING for the first time ever!

Yeah, at the lamest possible setting (-10 at nurb's sunday cup). Yeah, not in a super fast car (Tommy Kaira lil' one). But the thing is I've never been CLOSE to being able to do this at all, with the DS or with the horrible Pelican wheel I had first.

There is hope for the impossibly sucky drivers :D

However, there's an unusual thing that I'm trying to figure out if anyone else is like this. In order to be able to use the DFP with spinny, oversteery cars, I had to put it to no power steering assist, 200 degree mode, but FULL force feedback (I have a TV stand the wheel's attached to, so it's solid).

In order to drive competitively, I have to do most of the steering by basically exerting pressure, allow the car to recover from its own fishtails most of the time (letting force feedback throw the steering in the right direction) and occasionally physically wresting the car one way or another, or forcibly holding it still, like at high speeds.

This is really working for me, is it that unusual? I need the quick steering lock because I'm only just beginning to learn to brake and accelerate with gentle pressures rather than just flooring the pedal- especially braking, it was a big help to figure out that the best braking is done BEFORE tires squeal, and that's at X pressure. Nothing I had before let me modulate the pressure much, so I'm used to driving all over the place. The Nurb win, lame as it was, was all about taking the lead and then doing everything with those brake pressures, steering pressures, finding that zone where you could put your shoulder into the wheel on the turn without breaking it free and having it go loose on you.

It basically all came together thanks to the brake spring pressure feedback and the force feedback- just wondering if there are other 200/no assist/full force fans out there. I've read this is an impossible setup because of the high-speed shake, but it worked incredibly well for me :)
 
I would suggest running time trials in full mode so you don't get too used to the 200 degree. In full mode you will find that you have more precise control over your steering, just as you are learning you now have over your braking and gas. Honestly, I very rarely ever put the wheel to the stops on any car. I think the only time I do it are the two very sharp hairpins on Costa di Amalfi.

If you find yourself fishtailing and spinning out a lot you need to slow down a bit in those over powered cars. Also, from personal experience jumping into a high powered car with the wheel first thing can create problems. My first drive was the Audi R8 at Laguna Seca and I thought I couldn't use the wheel at all. I went back and did some slower cars in smaller races and worked my way up until I felt I could handle the speeds and power of the bigger cars. I've had my wheel since Christmas and to this day I still find myself finishing races with more powerful cars with sweaty palms, only realizing afterwards that I had a white knuckle grip on the wheel.

Another way to get the hang of the wheel would be to rerun some license tests. That was one of the things I did and as I got used to the wheel I started golding tests that I struggled to get a bronze on. Whether I actually improved in skill or just had better control with the wheel, I don't know, but the confidence boost prevented me from fearing any race, sometimes to a bit of over confidence.


Anyway, if you are needing to push the wheel to the stops anywhere on the ring then you still aren't completely adjusted, because you are turning too hard. Generally this means that you are still going into a turn too fast and are desparately trying to fight the understeer. Play around with slower cars and work your way up a bit to get a feel for how much turn you actually need to take the turns.

And remember, brake before the turn and accelerate, gently, out of the turn. Braking hard and late can cause understeer, and accelerating out too hard can cause oversteer and fishtailing.
 
chronoseifer
Hi guys

I just bought the driving force pro and connected it on my ps2. But when I start playing a game that support the wheel the wheel is turning a litle to the right and than turns back and this goes own for a very long time also the left light is flashing. after a long time it stops and both lights are flashing.
The wheel doesnt respont in the game no matter what I push in.
Yet he detect that there is a wheel connected. :scared:

HELP!! :indiff:
Click to expand...

this is a very late reply but to others that have the same problem like i did, what u need to do is open the wheel up to check the wheel lock. there are 2 bump switches the tell the wheel if its in the 900 or 90 degree mode. see if either switch is being pressed or not, if not bend the tab slightly so it will be triggered by the lock when all is whell u can continue to play on.

enjoy and good luck
 
Hi Guys,

I've had a dead DFP in the cupboard for a while now, it was only used 3-4 times within the warranty period but is now well out of warranty. I did a search on here and noticed some people mentioned a fuse in the DFP, can someone please tell me where this is located? All I get when the wheel is plugged in is a blinking left LED and no steering response, some of the buttons do work however. I've tested the power supply with a multimeter and no problems there. Tried it on the ps2 (1st usb slot) and PC with the latest drivers but no FFB or steering response.

Any help appreciated.

Chris
 
i got my controller set up just a few moments ago i turn on my ps2 gt4 loads up it configures it self and does its thing and when i try to use the d-pad to go to different places it doesn't work. so naturally i go to the options menu and for some reason my steering wheel starts working and i can used all the buttons but once i go out it stops working. no lights are blinking just a steady left light. ive also tried unplugging my dual shock controller and restarting the system and that doesn't work either. i tried selecting everything with teh dual shock controller to do a practice race and nothing on the steering wheel or pedals work. please help @_@
 
For Christmas... I finally got my own Driving Force Pro steering wheel! So I've been trying to race around in GT4. I had a lot of practice runs in Arcade Mode. My little stepbrother wanted me to go race against cars in Arcade Mode, but I still needed to get a feel for the wheel. I raced a variety of cars just trying to understand this wicked monster. What I've ended up with is a new appreciation for piloting cars in games. The 900 degrees of rotation is very awesome.

So on to my "regimen" of DFP training. My stepbrother wanted to race a Chrysler. And I chose the 300 around High Speed Ring - Normal. We've had some severe spins in the first corner. I raced some kind of car (I forgot what it was) around Laguna Seca. I tried rally racing with this wheel in on and off road conditions. Then I finally did a race. What I did was tone the difficulty down to -3 just for practice. I was in a Lotus Motorsport Elise and won a two-lap race around Autumn Ring Mini - Normal. After coming home from a Christmas party, I tried out GT4 again. This time, I was racing more race cars. You think it's tough keeping a GTP car on a race track with the DualShock 2? It's tougher with the Driving Force Pro. The Force Feedback I've been getting seems to have my car feel every bump as I slam on the brakes moderately to hard. First-timers shouldn't race with this steering wheel right away. Give yourself a regimen of tests and practice runs to get a feel for the DFP.

All in all, this is one kick-ass steering wheel. My multi-platform Mad Catz steering wheel is collecting some dust in my closet. This is the new addition for me. It is an awesome steering wheel that really tests your driving ability. I'm not likely do do a 200 A-Spec race anytime soon with this wheel, but I'm still learning the ropes and not yet ready to be a winner with this wheel just yet. I use this thing on my bed, so I don't use the pedals. I instead have my own configuration for gas and brake. There isn't enough space in my room to play using my pedals. This is a wicked experience.
 
Awesome, man! Yeah, there's definitely a learning curve on the DFP and G25, but it's LOADS more fun once you get it. 👍
 
John, go redo the license test where you drive the Minolta Toyota down the Mulsane Straight. You will have a whole new appreciation for force feedback after that.

Oh, and don't have anything sitting on whatever your wheel is attached to.
 
The Minolta at Le Mans? I think that's the Nissan R92CP you're referring to.

My regimen continued with the Driving Force Pro. And yes- racing those GTP race cars can be a bastard to keep on the track. I raced Le Mans and the Nürburgring Nordschleife. The test car for Le Mans was the 2004 Pescarolo Courage, and for the Nürburgring Nordschlife was the Falken GT-R (commonly called "Godzilla"). Racing Le Mans with the Driving Force Pro gives me much more appreciation for just how fit and endurant real racers are on bumpy courses like Le Mans.

An important aspect of this series of runs with the DFP have to do with manual shifting. I normally don't use Manual/Standard. A reason for change is that I have a steering wheel. Do any of you feel the same way about using a Manual transmission in a game only if you have a complete steering wheel setup? I've tried a variety of cars to test my shifting ability. The test cars ranged from the Team Oreca Viper all the way up to the Audi R8. I even used the Chaparral 2J (the weird-looking Chaparral) around Tokyo R246. The manual "training" for me started off with the paddle shifters at the back. Then, I tried to use the shift knob. The close steering knob reminds me a lot of rally cars. Note that I'm not using my pedals. The pedals are still wrapped up in the package they were shipped with. The paddle shifters are convenient for me. Then too, I grip the wheel kind of like a Formula One racer. What this means is that I clutch the wheel sort of the same way F1 racers clutch their specially-made wheels. I'm a right-handed person, so I'm using the right hand to perform the basic tasks in addition to shifting. I'm more careful with the steering wheel than I am with a standard PlayStation 2 controller.

I'm not going to even attempt trying to drift. I've mastered the hand-over driving technique in which you tilt the wheel as far in one direction until you have to briefly let go of the steering wheel to readjust. Think about the demo video in Enthusia when the driver swings the wheel around in order to slide through the corner effectively. I know I can use this wheel in Enthusia, but I'm using for GT4 for now. I just haven't mastered properly using the hand-over driving style.

I may attempt doing Gran Turismo mode with this wheel. I still have a ways to go until I reach the harder race series.
 
JohnBM01
The Minolta at Le Mans? I think that's the Nissan R92CP you're referring to.
Click to expand...
:ouch: DOH!!! You're right.

It looks like you are doing proper testing to get used to it. When I got mine last year the first thing I did was tak the Audi R8 out on Laguna Seca and quickly realized how unstable going over the rumble strips can make your car. The feedback on my DS2 quit working on my PS2 years ago and I had no clue how badly those things shook the car. Once I adjusted my driving lines to not run up on them I started noticing increasingly better lap times.

Now, whenever I find myself in a close race, even in low power vehicles, I find myself sweating and I can feel my heart rate increase. It definitely adds a lot to the game that was missing without it.
 
FoolKiller
Now, whenever I find myself in a close race, even in low power vehicles, I find myself sweating and I can feel my heart rate increase. It definitely adds a lot to the game that was missing without it.
Click to expand...

lol Same here. I actually went and bought an oscillating fan and pointed it at my cockpit so that when I race, I don't have to go turn the AC down and freeze teh GF. She puts up with me having a cockpit setup in the middle of the living room, but having to get a blanket every time I race was just too much.
 
The training style I put together is an analogy for baseball. I equate doing simple race demonstrations like going from Single-A minor leauge all the way to Triple-A minor league. I'm an Astros fan, so my progression to being experienced would be like going from the Single-A Lexington (KY) Legends to the Triple-A Round Rock Express.

I'm careful with the Driving Force Pro. Even the "Pro" name to the steering wheel denotes this isn't for everyone. This even includes my little 8-year old stepbrother who was playing this deal. I finally set up the machine to do gear shifts with the paddle shifters on the back. So it's safe for me to say that I can really have some fun with this wheel now. I haven't yet entered Gran Turismo Mode yet with this wheel.

One thing I've noticed about using this wheel is how much tougher it is to do off-road racing with this steering wheel than with a standard controller. You have to be more crafty steering than with a standard DualShock. Keep in mind that you get 900 degrees of rotation. I've surely seen drifters and rally racers twist around the steering wheel. Maybe a reason why I can't do the hand-over very well is because of the resistance of the steering wheel. You tend to feel everything at once. I've done the tarmac rally courses with almost no problem. The loose off-road surfaces can be tough to drive on with the DFP. I know there are a lot of people who think rallying in GT is a joke, but the challenge of rally racing still remains intact. Just don't expect me doing Citta di Aria in an Escudo anytime soon.

I'll still be working out this wheel to explore its limits and adjust my skills to race this thing.
 
One way to get a good feel for the wheel is redoing the license tests. They are already designed as a teaching tool, so they are working to make you better.


Have you done Costa di Amalfi with the wheel yet? Some of those incredibly sharp hairpins can take some getting used to. I remembver my first few times I had to get used to turning teh wheel far enough quick enough. Then I had to work on straightening the wheel back out quick enough not to nose in. And when you hit a few of those jumps if you aren't straight when you land the wheel wants to go every which way but forward.
 
In my experience, the only way to successfully rally with a G25 or DFP is to completely forget the handbrake. If you unbalance the car, then use gas to kick the back end out, you don't usually have to spin the wheel so much. It's pretty rare for me to exceed 180 degrees of rotation this way, and saves me the trouble of doing really fast hand-over-hand.

I agree with FoolKiller about the license tests, though. It'll make for good practice.
 
The guy who sold me a DFP told me to experience driving the Formula GT. He forgot to mention needing a two hand deathgrip to control the thing. ;)
 
Ive done Costa di Amalfi several times. Still learning most of the ropes. Otherwise, great stuff. For a guy who doesn't have a driver's license, this has been a hardcore drill for me to learn proper technique on the road.
 
Hi guys had a little woopsy with my DFP, when I umplugged the wheel from the pedal one of the pins broke off the plug on the pedal side. Did a huge seach on the net and couldn't find a solution anywhere, but did notice this site was pretty comprehensive when it came to technical know how.
Anyway figured it out in the end but though I'd just add a quick diagram on the wire locations for those that may need to repair or replace the plug from the pedals to the wheel.

If you get a new plug from a electronics shop (like me) you'll need to remove the first and last pins as they are blanked out on the wheel side and the plug won't even go in.
Also a few of the pins are bridged if you don't bridge them then the pedals get stuck and don't reset

NOTE: The diagram is from the back end of the plug (the end you solder the wires onto)
wiring.jpg


Hope this helps anyone that has trouble in the future
 
Sorry if this question has been asked before, but its late and I didn't want to look through the entire thread.
Does this steering wheel work with a PS3 playing GT4? I have one back home and want to bring it to school, but I don't want to bring it all the way there and have it not work, then bring it all the way back.
Thanks in advance.
 
PingPong700
Sorry if this question has been asked before, but its late and I didn't want to look through the entire thread.
Does this steering wheel work with a PS3 playing GT4? I have one back home and want to bring it to school, but I don't want to bring it all the way there and have it not work, then bring it all the way back.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Yes.
 
Now that I have my racing cockpit setup with GTR2 and a few other DFP-friendly games, I tried it out with a few of my older racing games that don't directly support the DFP. The behavior is that I can configure the wheel in the options screen, but as soon as the actual game starts (where I take control of the car) the wheel completely loses power (the green lights on the front go off) and I have to physically unplug and replug the USB connection for the wheel to work in Windows again. I've seen this behavior with more than one game. These were games that I had before I even got the wheel, so it's no big deal if they don't work. I'm just trying to take advantage of my cockpit by getting it to work with as many games as possible. Any ideas on what could be going on (besides the fact that these games don't claim to work with the DFP or were made before the DFP was released). Any work-around would be greatly appreciated.

Peace \/
chisel316
 
I wanted to post a follow-up because I figured out the issue. It had nothing to do with the games. It had to do with the long USB extension I had running to the wheel. I cut that out and everything runs great now!

Peace \/
chisel316
 
flyin_gnome
For those having this problem I too had this issue and I got so pissed that I opened the bitch up to see what was wrong. There is a locking mechanism that releases the pins which hold it into 360 mode. This is a little foward and back sliding white gear. I was able to manually move the gear into the 900 position and 900 degrees works fine. Only problem I am having is that this must be done after calibration because after calibration it locks again in 360 mode. Also this disables the ability to set the wheel at anything between 360 and 900. PM me for more information if you are confused. I would really like a permanant fix for this **** though, it has been going on with me for months now.
Click to expand...

Hi! does anyone knows how to fix this problem? I´m experiencing the exact same thing... manually moving the gear works though, but I still have to open my DFP every time I want to play... please I would really appreciate it.
thanks
 
What voltage does the DFP power supply need ?

The reason I ask, I want to ship one home to Iceland from eBay but then I noticed that they come with a power supply and I hate that big converters so I was hoping I would be able to just change the socket type.
 

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