Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
lancashire lad
If u have downloaded the firmware go into your programs on your pc and scroll to the thrustmaster one. Click on it then I think it's in the advanced options.
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Thats where i thought it would be but it's not there, Infact according to Thrustmaster that's where it goes.

edit: Got it it was in the Programs bit at the Windows start sign rather than in the old school way looking through Program files
 
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its a joke that thrustmaster are still sending out pedals with these problems.they should be recalling them aswell. il be waiting for the t3pa pros which come out in april apparently. They really should give us the option of which pedals we want with the wheel considering how much its all costing !
 
UkHardcore23
Seems like i have about 3 or 4 cm play before the accelerator registers, Is that normal? Will in game fix that?
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Exactly what mine had:indiff: Mine came with the V24 latest firmware so I'm assuming it's a general thing. I would say to both yourself and @lancashire lad read through the guidelines be patient and you will be fine it's not as daunting as it may seem. Worse thing indeed is getting the casing back on!!:banghead:
Don't rush set aside a morning/afternoon to do it would be my advice.👍
@shoemaker with all the after market pedals available I wouldn't be surprised if they are sending the pedals out like this deliberately, call me cynical but hey.:rolleyes::irked:
 
After my first issue with my pedals, I realized too that mine had a huge dead zone (half way before the pedals registered!). After reading about people taking them apart I was leery about doing this but yesterday decided to give it a go. And it worked. Although I may open them up one more time to fine tune them once more as my brake is now a tad too sensitive. Yes the hardest part is trying to take it apart with all the pressure of the springs fighting you.
Here are a few things I found that I did not read from others who did this. First it can be messy depending on how much grease they put inside. Mine had grease on the brake spring and the gear teeth for each potentiometer. When you get it apart you will notice that the pedals sit higher up with the top case off which will disengage the teeth that the turn the potentiometer. This is okay because if you push the pedal it will line up where it last contacted the actuator but when I made the adjustment to the potentiometer I turned it too much and when I put the top cover back on I noticed the “zero” position of the pedals is not the same position as when the cover is off. So what I did was I hooked up my wheel and pedals and had my Driveclub running to verify the position of my potentiometers (I own a Mac so I can’t use the calibration tool and I think this process would be easier with the calibration tool). So when I put the cover back on, I noticed that the gas and brakes in the game were ON in the “zero” position of the pedals. So I adjusted it a couple of times and got it just right. Let me say this isn’t easy when you are trying to hold the top cover of the pedals down by yourself and at the same time trying to push the pedals. I found it easier to put the top cover back on by putting the pedals on a flat surface and using my knee to hold the top cover on and then using my hands to test the pedals. I recommend you test it while you have it apart or you will have to put it together/take it apart too many times. !!Also I do not recommend pushing full pressure on the pedals when the top cover is fully removed!! The bottom of the pedal case is "thin" when the top cover is removed. When I pushed on the pedals and as the pressure increased the more I pushed I noticed the plastic base bending. My fear is that you could crack the base where the pedals are mounted. The top cover adds support to the whole thing when it is screwed together.

Also when you are putting it back together, I found the easiest way to make sure the brake spring is installed correctly is to rest it on the bottom base (it fits over a round raised nub to hold it in place) and put the cover on. Once the cover is on and screwed down lightly, use a screw driver to push the spring so it sits itself onto the nub that is on the back side of the brake pedal. You can hear it click into place. It is too hard to try and line the two up as you are putting the cover on. Then tighten up all the screws.
I hope that makes sense, and it should make sense when you have it apart. It sucks that these pedals are shipped this way but it does fix it.

JD
DISCLAIMER! I assume absolutely NO responsibility for what happens to your pedals or what you do with your pedals. I just wanted to add my findings from doing this procedure as I went into this unsure what I was doing and thought this might help a little.
 
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R2JD
After my first issue with my pedals, I realized too that mine had a huge dead zone (half way before the pedals registered!). After reading about people taking them apart I was leery about doing this but yesterday decided to give it a go. And it worked. Although I may open them up one more time to fine tune them once more as my brake is now a tad too sensitive. Yes the hardest part is trying to take it apart with all the pressure of the springs fighting you.
Here are a few things I found that I did not read from others who did this. First it can be messy depending on how much grease they put inside. Mine had grease on the brake spring and the gear teeth for each actuator. When you get it apart you will notice that the pedals sit higher up with the top case off which will disengage the teeth that the turn the actuators. This is okay because if you push the pedal it will line up where it last contacted the actuator but when I made the adjustment to the actuator I turned it too much and when I put the top cover back on I noticed the “zero” position of the pedals is not the same position as when the cover is off. So what I did was I hooked up my wheel and pedals and had my Driveclub running to verify the position of my actuators (I own a Mac so I can’t use the calibration tool and I think this process would be easier with the calibration tool). So when I put the cover back on, I noticed that the gas and brakes in the game were ON in the “zero” position of the pedals. So I adjusted it a couple of times and got it just right. Let me say this isn’t easy when you are trying to hold the top cover of the pedals down by yourself and at the same time trying to push the pedals. I found it easier to put the top cover back on by putting the pedals on a flat surface and using my knee to hold the top cover on and then using my hands to test the pedals. I recommend you test it while you have it apart or you will have to put it together/take it apart too many times. !!Also I do not recommend pushing full pressure on the pedals when the top cover is fully removed!! The bottom of the pedal case is "thin" when the top cover is removed. When I pushed on the pedals and as the pressure increased the more I pushed I noticed the plastic base bending. My fear is that you could crack the base where the pedals are mounted. The top cover adds support to the whole thing when it is screwed together.

Also when you are putting it back together, I found the easiest way to make sure the brake spring is installed correctly is to rest it on the bottom base (it fits over a round raised nub to hold it in place) and put the cover on. Once the cover is on and screwed down lightly, use a screw driver to push the spring so it sits itself onto the nub that is on the back side of the brake pedal. You can hear it click into place. It is too hard to try and line the two up as you are putting the cover on. Then tighten up all the screws.
I hope that makes sense, and it should make sense when you have it apart. It sucks that these pedals are shipped this way but it does fix it.

JD
DISCLAIMER! I assume absolutely NO responsibility for what happens to your pedals or what you do with your pedals. I just wanted to add my findings from doing this procedure as I went into this unsure what I was doing and thought this might help a little.
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Thanks for info, do you remember how much you had to move the actuator? Or what tooth you were happy with?
 
Sorry no, but I will take note when I open it to do my last adjustment to the brake pedal. When I had it open, I had moved the gas actuator when the pedal gear teeth weren’t touching it so I don’t know where it started out. I had to start from scratch in getting it set up. That is why I put the cover back on temporarily so I could see what I had screwed up and in turn that made me realize that the pedals sit at a different position with the top cover in place. The gear teeth of the pedals will always be in contact with the gear teeth of the actuators when the cover is in place. When the cover is off, the pedals are in a position so the gear teeth aren’t touching. So thinking back I shouldn’t have touched the actuator and pushed the pedal slightly so the gears made contact and then I could have made a mark where they started out. Again it makes sense when you see it.
If I hadn’t had grease on my fingers I would have taken a few pics. When I get it open again I will try and take a few pics.
JD
 
Fryto
Bumped into your post, looks like I have exactly the same issue.
It looks like the tool version is already outdated no? It refers to an older firmware version than the current one.

Did you or @ENGYPT already hear back from TM? I sent an email through the contact form already today, but maybe I'd better give them a call tomorrow.

EDIT: running the motor calibration program fixed the problem for now. Hopefully it doesn't re-appear like with yours. Although it doesn't take long, it would be a pain to need to always remove and reattach the rim, or to detach it from my PS3/4 and hook it up to my laptop.
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And the issue is back... :(
Still haven't heard anything from Thrustmaster regarding my ticket.
 
An hour an 30 mins later and about 8 tries my pedals are far worse than when i started, Got about 8 cm travel on the gas (Slight movements seem to have insanely different effect, One min im fully pressed after 1cm then the next its not registering after 8cm travel ) and a brake pedal that barely registers...Bloody cheap ****! Can safely say this will be my first and last Thrustmaster product. Basically im left with a steering wheel and no pedals.

Can we plug Fanatec pedals into the wheel? If not what are my pedals options. Really dont want to buy another Thrustmaster product.
 
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UkHardcore23
An hour an 30 mins later and about 8 tries my pedals are far worse than when i started, Got about 8 cm travel on the gas (Slight movements seem to have insanely different effect, One min im fully pressed after 1cm then the next its not registering after 8cm travel ) and a brake pedal that barely registers...Bloody cheap ****! Can safely say this will be my first and last Thrustmaster product. Basically im left with a steering wheel and no pedals.

Can we plug Fanatec pedals into the wheel? If not what are my pedals options. Really dont want to buy another Thrustmaster product.
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BasherBoards makes an adapter for Fanatec wheels (CSR, CSR-E and Clubsport) to work with Thrustmaster wheels. I think it works for consoles as well. In a few weeks I am ordering the CSR Elite pedals and that adapter, I can keep you posted on how well it works for consoles. Other pedal options include G27 Pedals (with adapter) T500rs pedals, and T3PA (both versions)
 
Fryto
And the issue is back... :(
Still haven't heard anything from Thrustmaster regarding my ticket.
Click to expand...

I'm going to post regular updates so you guys are also aware of how the procedure goes.
So as I didn't get a response to my ticket, I called Thrustmaster support myself to hear what's up.
I must say that they're very friendly up until now. After I pointed him to the ticket number, he apologized immediately that I didn't get any response back. He said that normally it should take anywhere between 12 and 24 hours for getting a response to a ticket, but that the backlog of tickets is quite high at the moment.

So to anyone who's got a ticket with them and didn't get a reply in say two days, I'd say to give them a call.

For my calibration issue, he's going to send me a link to the calibration tool. I already tried that from a link that was posted here in the forums a while ago and the issue came back within 2 days. But who knows, maybe it's an updated version of the tool.

He also acknowledged that depending on what's the cause of the calibration issue, it will or will not help. He said that the never ending wildly spinning calibration can be caused by both software or hardware. In case it's a software issue, the calibration with the tool should solve it permanently. Otherwise it's a hardware failure.
If the issue is not resolved, I assume it means a replacement, as he already asked me to prepare a copy of my invoice should that be the case.

To be continued.
 
o
Fryto
I'm going to post regular updates so you guys are also aware of how the procedure goes.
So as I didn't get a response to my ticket, I called Thrustmaster support myself to hear what's up.
I must say that they're very friendly up until now. After I pointed him to the ticket number, he apologized immediately that I didn't get any response back. He said that normally it should take anywhere between 12 and 24 hours for getting a response to a ticket, but that the backlog of tickets is quite high at the moment.

So to anyone who's got a ticket with them and didn't get a reply in say two days, I'd say to give them a call.

For my calibration issue, he's going to send me a link to the calibration tool. I already tried that from a link that was posted here in the forums a while ago and the issue came back within 2 days. But who knows, maybe it's an updated version of the tool.

He also acknowledged that depending on what's the cause of the calibration issue, it will or will not help. He said that the never ending wildly spinning calibration can be caused by both software or hardware. In case it's a software issue, the calibration with the tool should solve it permanently. Otherwise it's a hardware failure.
If the issue is not resolved, I assume it means a replacement, as he already asked me to prepare a copy of my invoice should that be the case.

To be continued.
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Good luck fella:ouch:

@UkHardcore23 did you try refreshing the control panel and trying again? I had the same headscrew as you but all that was needed was a refresh and retest.:crazy::boggled:
 
V8-Johnboy
o
Good luck fella:ouch:

@UkHardcore23 did you try refreshing the control panel and trying again? I had the same headscrew as you but all that was needed was a refresh and retest.:crazy::boggled:
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Yeah each time i would unplug the wheel from USB and restart the control panel 👎

I see Thrustmaster has the T3PA pedals in but chances are they would of been put together just as wonky 🤬
 
UkHardcore23
Yeah each time i would unplug the wheel from USB and restart the control panel 👎

I see Thrustmaster has the T3PA pedals in but chances are they would of been put together just as wonky 🤬
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Oh crap:indiff: I'd stick at it mate it is a bit of a flap but it will come together eventually. Maybe have another crack when your a little less pissed off:lol::irked: What you got to loose if your already looking at replacements:guilty:
 
I have a T300 on the way at the current time and am wondering if I need to make any modifications to my home built rig. Is there someone out there that could provide the dimensions of the T300 base? I would need the width of the base, the depth of the base as in the distance from the edge of the table to the end of the base and the height of the base at the point furthest away from the edge of the mounting surface.

If anyone can help me out with these numbers, thank you in advance. CM or inches is fine, I can convert either way.
 
Fryto
And the issue is back... :(
Still haven't heard anything from Thrustmaster regarding my ticket.
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I haven't heard from them yet (3 weeks). After contacting their facebook page several times, they told me:

Hi, you still have problems? I have a message from the support saying your case was solved and that they will do a follow up. You don't agree?
​
I'll guess I'll really have to call them - didn't want to because I moved over to Brazil and the call cost can escalate up to half the price of the wheel. I don't even want to think about the costs of shipping the wheel to them and paying customs fee on my new wheel if I'm lucky enough to get a new one.
 
UkHardcore23
An hour an 30 mins later and about 8 tries my pedals are far worse than when i started, Got about 8 cm travel on the gas (Slight movements seem to have insanely different effect, One min im fully pressed after 1cm then the next its not registering after 8cm travel ) and a brake pedal that barely registers...Bloody cheap ****! Can safely say this will be my first and last Thrustmaster product. Basically im left with a steering wheel and no pedals.

Can we plug Fanatec pedals into the wheel? If not what are my pedals options. Really dont want to buy another Thrustmaster product.
Click to expand...
Have you tried shutting the thrustmaster program down after you calibrate the pedals? Then open it to test again. I hear it gives different readings.
edit just seen above post sorry.
 
JLBowler
I have a T300 on the way at the current time and am wondering if I need to make any modifications to my home built rig. Is there someone out there that could provide the dimensions of the T300 base? I would need the width of the base, the depth of the base as in the distance from the edge of the table to the end of the base and the height of the base at the point furthest away from the edge of the mounting surface.

If anyone can help me out with these numbers, thank you in advance. CM or inches is fine, I can convert either way.
Click to expand...

Try the download section on the Thrustmaster website, you can download a PDF of the base which gives various dimensions. (I've forgotten how to insert a link)
 
Hey, I was wondering if anyone could help me, I updated my wheel fully. And still when I play it on ps4 it will get randomly disconnected after about 5 minutes into a game(driveclub and the crew) then when you reconnect it will stay for about 15-30 seconds before disconnecting, has anyone had this problem? I'll watch the light on the wheel and it will blink and disconnect but turn right back on, could it be my ps4 usb? The usb cable itself? My power strip not being strong enough so it's shorting? I'm at a loss and hope I didn't waste my money, I called thrust master people and she made me plug it into my pc, I didn't use it in game, but it was disconnecting , so idk what it is
 

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