Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
prinnydewd2
Hey, I was wondering if anyone could help me, I updated my wheel fully. And still when I play it on ps4 it will get randomly disconnected after about 5 minutes into a game(driveclub and the crew) then when you reconnect it will stay for about 15-30 seconds before disconnecting, has anyone had this problem? I'll watch the light on the wheel and it will blink and disconnect but turn right back on, could it be my ps4 usb? The usb cable itself? My power strip not being strong enough so it's shorting? I'm at a loss and hope I didn't waste my money, I called thrust master people and she made me plug it into my pc, I didn't use it in game, but it was disconnecting , so idk what it is
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Is your power supply cable connected in properly? I previously had a defect T300 replaced because the cable didnt connect into the base and I got the same problems.
 
jkt008
Is your power supply cable connected in properly? I previously had a defect T300 replaced because the cable didnt connect into the base and I got the same problems.
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Yeah, im pretty sure it is. it clicks in and is really really sturdy. Ive had it connected to my pc for an hour now, and it hasnt disconnected at all

EDIT:This does not happen on my ps3, only my ps4.
 
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Last week-end, after a few weeks of having the T300, I finally plugged my good old DFGT back.

The difference between the 2 is so much bigger than I imagined, partly because at first I had to get used to the new feel and because I was distracted by the pedals' deadzone.

The DFGT is so 'fuzzy', it only scratches the surface of the FFB, and is as weak as my granddad (sorry Pépé!) while the T300's feel is rich and varied.
 
prinnydewd2
Yeah, im pretty sure it is. it clicks in and is really really sturdy. Ive had it connected to my pc for an hour now, and it hasnt disconnected at all

EDIT:This does not happen on my ps3, only my ps4.
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Did you switch the PS3/PS4 switch?

(Leave on PS3 for PC, only use the PS4 setting for the PS4 itself)
 
T300. Well I got my pedals dead-zone rectified. I was in two minds what to do open it up or come up with another solution. My deadzone was not huge but it bug me. Anyway I tested on Drivclub in Canada circuit for hours with same car with the pedals about 3 to 4mm deadzone.

Yesterday I came up with a solution not ideal but very good. Hooked up pedals to laptop both pedals same deadzone and at full throttle and brake I had 3 to 4mm before pedal would touch the back of pedal casing which is good or else I could not do this slight mod. I decided the get myself 5mm of hard rubber. I cut accordingly small bit of super glue on rubber and placed on pedals exactly were the pedal would touch the casing when no pressure applied this cancels out the deadzone. The extra 1mm in rubber size is needed for the pressure of the pedal when not in use. I have no deadzone yes pedals are slightly forward than before but its better for me. I know this will not fix pedal issues for most people but it has worked as I went back to the same track in Canada and same Mclaren and went 1.6 seconds quicker on my second lap.
 
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FYI: 3 Pedals Deal on Thrustmaster Shop until April 5
OffreSpecialeT3PA_978x264-UK_1.jpg

http://shop.thrustmaster.com/en_gb/categories/wheels.html

OffreSpecialeT3PA_978x264-DE_2.jpg

http://shop.thrustmaster.com/de_de/produktarten/lenkrader.html

OffreSpecialeT3PA_978x264-ES_1.jpg

http://shop.thrustmaster.com/es_es/categories/volantes.html

OffreSpecialeT3PA_978x264-FR.jpg

http://shop.thrustmaster.com/fr_fr/categories/volants.html

OffreSpecialeT3PA_978x264-IT_1.jpg

http://shop.thrustmaster.com/it_it/categories/volanti.html
 
Soulfresh_ACV
Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel
now available on Amazon


Compatibility: PS3/PS4/PC | Release Year: 2014 | Price: High | Wheel Rotation: 1080° | Shifters: Paddle | Pedals: Brake+Gas


​

Accessories
Mods

Official Thrustmaster Support

Official overview


ISRTV Thrustmaster T300 RS Racing Wheel PS4 review


ISRTV Thrustmaster T300 RS Racing Wheel PC review

​


Please feel free to ask any questions, share your experiences or any issues. If you want to recommend Thrustmaster T300RS to others or looking for alternative wheels, go to The Ultimate force feedback "Wheel Buyers Guide" for Game Consoles.
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T300RS stock pedals is RIDICOLOUS, we are talking about a wheels that cost 370 Euros, for a price like this thrustmaster had to provide a decent pedal set. I bought T3PA for 100 Euros, but after only 3 months of use the pedals squeak. I do not understand why thrustmaster do not sell the same pedal set of T500RS. Just to give you an idea of a product quality my G27 wheel and pedals were perfect after using 2-3 hours per day in 3 years, and I paid 250 Euros vs 470 Euros of T300rs + t3PA. All other comments are unnecessary.
 
skazz
Did you switch the PS3/PS4 switch?

(Leave on PS3 for PC, only use the PS4 setting for the PS4 itself)
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Yup I tried everything. Maybe my wheel like disconnects after the wheel warms up a little. All I can think of, or my ps4 is glitched somehow
 
Even with the thrustmaster shop deal its still £10 cheaper to get the t300rs and t3pa pros from amazon. my t300 arrived today.very impressed with the ffb.it kicks the g27s butt for strength and response. money well spent.my pedals have no deadzone but iam still going for the t3pa pro's.they just look and feel so much better
 
shoemaker
Even with the thrustmaster shop deal its still £10 cheaper to get the t300rs and t3pa pros from amazon. my t300 arrived today.very impressed with the ffb.it kicks the g27s butt for strength and response. money well spent.my pedals have no deadzone but iam still going for the t3pa pro's.they just look and feel so much better
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I cannot for the life of me find T3PA Pro pedals on Amazon...You got a link.
 
The Xbox one TX rim works on the T300rs base,i picked the rim up on eBay for 25 Bucks..its lighter then the t300rs ps rim,but looks and feels great.playing driveclub
 
UkHardcore23
I cannot for the life of me find T3PA Pro pedals on Amazon...You got a link.
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hi.sorry i should have put the wheel. i paid £250.11 including delivery fot the t300rs. add on the t3pa pros from thrustmaster shop which are £149.99 and its still £10 cheaper than the thrustmater shop deal. sorry for any confusion.iam sure if you give it a week or so the t3pa pros will get on amazon for £130 - £140.
 
WarriusZero
Last week-end, after a few weeks of having the T300, I finally plugged my good old DFGT back.

The difference between the 2 is so much bigger than I imagined, partly because at first I had to get used to the new feel and because I was distracted by the pedals' deadzone.

The DFGT is so 'fuzzy', it only scratches the surface of the FFB, and is as weak as my granddad (sorry Pépé!) while the T300's feel is rich and varied.
Click to expand...

Man, the same here. After some time playing with the T300 i got back to the DFGT that used to be mine... the DFGT feels like a toy when you get used to the T300(altough, it's a really good wheel and i can easly play with it).
 
I have a problem with the red light in the bottom left corner of the wheel. It is just vaguely blinking sometimes. I just think that the lightbulb could be broken, but I'm trying to get a replacement since it's an important part of the wheel.

Have anyone else got this problem? And could it be more to it than just the lightbulb? Sorry I didn't read trough all of it. There's just too many pages. XD
 
Seems like most of Fanatec wheels will work on the PS4 version of Project Cars.

Great news, but..:

Shouldn't we, T300 owners who bought this wheel because it was advertised as the only one fully working on PS4, be a bit pissed off?
 
hmvinyl
Seems like most of Fanatec wheels will work on the PS4 version of Project Cars.

Great news, but..:

Shouldn't we, T300 owners who bought this wheel because it was advertised as the only one fully working on PS4, be a bit pissed off?
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Not really, We don't know if Fanatec wheels can navigate the PS4/XBox One menus. As of right now, the T300RS is the only wheel that fully works on the PS4, same with TX for XB. It was already known that it is up to game devs to make other wheels compatible with games, but the PS/XB menus are still not supported.
 
Fanatec confirmed that basically their wheel drivers were added to pCARS on PS4, which guarantees that you will need to use a controller for menus (just like the T500). They implied the possibility of doing the same for other racers on the PS4.

My own interpretation is that Thrustmaster's T500 drivers are in the PS4 OS due to being there for the T300, so it's easy for game makers to add T500 support while adding T300 support. Fanatec's drivers being injected directly into the game will make it more cumbersome since Fanatec will need explicit contact and development work with each game maker, but it is certainly doable.

NB: Fanatec state that you put their wheels into PC mode for pCARS on PS4, which means the wheel isn't in PS3-Logitech-compatibility-mode. So these really are Fanatec's own drivers being used by pCARS.


So the T300 is still the only wheel which is fully PS4 functional (including share button), and is the only wheel guaranteed to be supported by all games. Oh, and it's a far better wheel than a Fanatec GT3RS (I say speaking from experience).
 
Fryto
I'm going to post regular updates so you guys are also aware of how the procedure goes.
So as I didn't get a response to my ticket, I called Thrustmaster support myself to hear what's up.
I must say that they're very friendly up until now. After I pointed him to the ticket number, he apologized immediately that I didn't get any response back. He said that normally it should take anywhere between 12 and 24 hours for getting a response to a ticket, but that the backlog of tickets is quite high at the moment.

So to anyone who's got a ticket with them and didn't get a reply in say two days, I'd say to give them a call.

For my calibration issue, he's going to send me a link to the calibration tool. I already tried that from a link that was posted here in the forums a while ago and the issue came back within 2 days. But who knows, maybe it's an updated version of the tool.

He also acknowledged that depending on what's the cause of the calibration issue, it will or will not help. He said that the never ending wildly spinning calibration can be caused by both software or hardware. In case it's a software issue, the calibration with the tool should solve it permanently. Otherwise it's a hardware failure.
If the issue is not resolved, I assume it means a replacement, as he already asked me to prepare a copy of my invoice should that be the case.

To be continued.
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Next part:

I ran the calibration tool they sent me, even though it didn't seem like a new version. Like the previous time, it worked initially. The wheel calibrated correctly after the process and I did some practice sessions in iRacing. The next day however I fire up my laptop, attach the wheel and it's going in its endless calibration routine again.

So I replied back to Thrustmaster last Friday by email saying that it didn't help, including a copy of my invoice like they requested.
Today I received the answer back from them to provide my full name, address, phone number and a picture of the underside of the base so they can start the RMA procedure.

I'm very curious to see how quick that goes. Hopefully I'm back in action by the time Project CARS drops. Until then, it's going to be the good old DFGT again on iRacing.
 
hmvinyl
Seems like most of Fanatec wheels will work on the PS4 version of Project Cars.

Great news, but..:

Shouldn't we, T300 owners who bought this wheel because it was advertised as the only one fully working on PS4, be a bit pissed off?
Click to expand...

It still is the only fully functional wheel... the T300 works with the PS4 system menus, the share button, the PS button .. etc. No other wheel does.. the Fanatec wheels only work in the game with the in game software.

You have every right to be pissed off at yourself for rushing into purchases if you are not happy with it.. Both the pCars and Drive club sites have said they are working on adding more wheel support.
 
I am looking to open the pedals of my t300rs to make the pot settings to remove the deadzone. I'm fumbling through with things. Does anyone have any comments on that? It's easy to do?
 
Soooo TM contacted me! Wohoo!
Unfortunately, they sent me an "updated calibration software" that wasn't updated at all - the file date back to February 2014. And as expected it didn't work, the wheel can't get past auto-calibrate.

Oddly enough, TM don't wan't to replace the wheel by now (!) - let's wait for future episodes....
 
Email to thrustmaster

Hello good evening, recently got a T300RS vonate and from the first use I noticed a very large deadzone on the pedals, both the throttle when the brake only begin to function after being pressed about 30%. I saw some reviews on the internet and saw that it is a very common problem, saw several reports of people complaining, even saw tutorials on how to fix the problem, but because it is an expensive new product, I prefer to use the guarantee of the product.
On the internet I found this video that shows exactly the same problem as mine.

What should I do from now on to repair or replace the product?
Note, the product was purchased in February / 2015 by Amazon.com.

Reply

The pedals of the T300 RS have a deadzone (= you have to press the pedal 0.5-1 cm before getting a reaction) whose purpose is to prevent the pedals from losing precision over time.

This is normal and you can measure the amount of travel of the pedal needed to make it react.

My reply

This is absurd, deadzone of 1 cm before to detect any pressure, this is an excuse not to serve the customer, has hundreds of reports on the Internet about it, many customers had their pedals replaced and several others have not received your pedals with this deadzone huge. This set of t300rs is very expensive, especially here in Brazil where the monthly minimum wage is equivalent to $ 200. Long work to buy such an expensive product and get terrible service like this, I received a defective product, 1 cm deadzone is not normal, I'm no fool, I thought the Thrustmaster was a serious company, which respected their customers, now apparently overpaid and will keep a product unused, it is impossible to use that way. I demand respect, I demand that you send me a quality product and not a serious product with mounting problems and you want to make customers believe that is normal. I'm sorry to have bought this kit, first by the poor quality of the pedals and then disrespect to the customer.
 
Jhonatas1981
Email to thrustmaster

Hello good evening, recently got a T300RS vonate and from the first use I noticed a very large deadzone on the pedals, both the throttle when the brake only begin to function after being pressed about 30%. I saw some reviews on the internet and saw that it is a very common problem, saw several reports of people complaining, even saw tutorials on how to fix the problem, but because it is an expensive new product, I prefer to use the guarantee of the product.
On the internet I found this video that shows exactly the same problem as mine.

What should I do from now on to repair or replace the product?
Note, the product was purchased in February / 2015 by Amazon.com.

Reply

The pedals of the T300 RS have a deadzone (= you have to press the pedal 0.5-1 cm before getting a reaction) whose purpose is to prevent the pedals from losing precision over time.

This is normal and you can measure the amount of travel of the pedal needed to make it react.

My reply

This is absurd, deadzone of 1 cm before to detect any pressure, this is an excuse not to serve the customer, has hundreds of reports on the Internet about it, many customers had their pedals replaced and several others have not received your pedals with this deadzone huge. This set of t300rs is very expensive, especially here in Brazil where the monthly minimum wage is equivalent to $ 200. Long work to buy such an expensive product and get terrible service like this, I received a defective product, 1 cm deadzone is not normal, I'm no fool, I thought the Thrustmaster was a serious company, which respected their customers, now apparently overpaid and will keep a product unused, it is impossible to use that way. I demand respect, I demand that you send me a quality product and not a serious product with mounting problems and you want to make customers believe that is normal. I'm sorry to have bought this kit, first by the poor quality of the pedals and then disrespect to the customer.
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You only need to re=calibrate them its an easy 5 min job. No need to make a drama out of this. One of the main reasons you have to do this is on PS4 they calibrate in the boot of playstation< They don't calibrate when game loads like on PS3

Get it done put a game in machine go play, You will enjoy it they are a major upgrade from any of the Logitech wheels.
 
I created courage and open the pedals yesterday, I could let them perfect, but that does not diminish the responsibility of the Thrustmaster to send a product that in my view is mounting defect.

Just to help other members who want to do the same I will leave here my tip:

It is very simple, the tricky part is even close all movamente with the force of the springs pushing the ramp.

1 strip the metal part of the pedals.
2 - loosen the screws at the bottom, remember what is close to the cable exit.
3 - without the lid, it is easy to understand how, when pressing the pedal forward, the bottom of them has some teeth that are touching the teeth of the pot, making him spin. If we raise the pedals pot is free, with the same finger just turn a little to over the deadzone disappears. there's just put it all back and ready.
The amount that should turn the pot depends on how much you have deadzone.
In my case was equivalent to two teeth.
I did it with the steering wheel on the PC to be able to test the control panel, but it's very complicated, because to test all have to be tightly closed.

My last tip is, do not be afraid, it's much easier than it sounds. Just do calmly and turn the pot up to just a little.

If the control panel is showing apparently wrongly, close and open again because sometimes he even shows a misreading.
 
BrunoGF
Soooo TM contacted me! Wohoo!
Unfortunately, they sent me an "updated calibration software" that wasn't updated at all - the file date back to February 2014. And as expected it didn't work, the wheel can't get past auto-calibrate.

Oddly enough, TM don't wan't to replace the wheel by now (!) - let's wait for future episodes....
Click to expand...

I had the same issue as you, and after I sent them the response that I tried but it didn't work, they asked me for my personal information to start the RMA process.
I'm not sure how the warranty rules are over in Brazil, but I'd suppose you'd still get a year of warranty at least no?
 
Fryto
I had the same issue as you, and after I sent them the response that I tried but it didn't work, they asked me for my personal information to start the RMA process.
I'm not sure how the warranty rules are over in Brazil, but I'd suppose you'd still get a year of warranty at least no?
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Yes, according to the manual and local laws I have 1 year of warranty.
TM up until now don't want to cover it though, even when it's specified on the user manual.
Let's see what happens next
 

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