Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%
  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%

  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
Well I finally (after owning the T300 for around 5 months) had a go with it on GT6.

The experience was somewhat underwhelming. These are my thoughts:
  1. It feels to me that the GT6 Thrustmaster FFB is tuned for the T500. On the PC I am used to the T300 resolving FFB detail better than the T500, but wasn't finding any more detail in GT6 (including such favorites as the ring in a car with stiff suspension). In fact, the greater dynamic range of the T500 gives clearer forces in GT6...
  2. Holding slides is one big benefit of the T300. Sooooo easy to flick it around and drift compared to the heavier more powerful T500. And the T300 spins much faster than a G25/27 so you can let the wheel do more of the work than a Logitech wheel. This behavior is obviously also true on PC sims, but glad to see it in GT6 as well.
  3. I found that I was getting clipping with FFB Torque set to 4 or higher. And oscillation on straights with FFB sensitivity set above 1. So I ended up at 3/1 setting during my testing, as compared to 2/1 on the T500.

Clearly, to me, GT6 FFB is the limiting factor. You are not experiencing anywhere near the true resolving capabilities of the T300 if you just use it in GT6. Let's hope PS4 games do better :)
 
Well I finally (after owning the T300 for around 5 months) had a go with it on GT6.

The experience was somewhat underwhelming. These are my thoughts:
  1. It feels to me that the GT6 Thrustmaster FFB is tuned for the T500. On the PC I am used to the T300 resolving FFB detail better than the T500, but wasn't finding any more detail in GT6 (including such favorites as the ring in a car with stiff suspension). In fact, the greater dynamic range of the T500 gives clearer forces in GT6...
  2. Holding slides is one big benefit of the T300. Sooooo easy to flick it around and drift compared to the heavier more powerful T500. And the T300 spins much faster than a G25/27 so you can let the wheel do more of the work than a Logitech wheel. This behavior is obviously also true on PC sims, but glad to see it in GT6 as well.
  3. I found that I was getting clipping with FFB Torque set to 4 or higher. And oscillation on straights with FFB sensitivity set above 1. So I ended up at 3/1 setting during my testing, as compared to 2/1 on the T500.

Clearly, to me, GT6 FFB is the limiting factor. You are not experiencing anywhere near the true resolving capabilities of the T300 if you just use it in GT6. Let's hope PS4 games do better :)
That's thorough observation using T300RS on GT6. I use T500RS on AC most of the time these days and whenever I switch back to GT6 I felt like the wheel is half of itself in terms of the FFB detail. Maybe it's simply the track surface detail the GT6 lacks in comparison to AC or FFB isn't good enough overall.

So that makes me wonder how much PD will be spending on improving on FFB for GT7 given the importance of it's GT Academy and FIA license for digital race events in the future. :rolleyes:
 
To be clear, though, the T300 and GT6 combo is not bad. You get excellent feel, easy car control and all the forces which the game produces come through loud and clear (if less prominent than T500 in many cases). Just not up to what the wheel can offer on the PC.

I had a lot of fun just now with the F40 time trial in GT6: with the T300 it was remarkably easy to drift it around most of the corners, and that was good enough for gold too :)
 
Can anyone tell me, can this wheel have a black or blue colour? I've looked at the pictures, and most seem to be black, but then one picture I found was of a dark blue colour. I'm starting to look into what wheel to replace my shortlived G27, and design plays a big part in my decision. And that blue looks really good!

By the way, am I the only one who finds thrustmaster wheels a little cheap looking? Or am I just the only one who cares about design?! :P
 
Simply sounds like you have turned the potentiometer on the gas too far I had the same problem a few times until I hit the right spot. Remember they can move slightly when putting the pedals back together so can be a bit hit and miss.:boggled:

Today I have tried to fix the pedals again, I've moved back gas potentiometer by 1 teeth. After this gas deadzone is ~2mm and it gets 100% speed for about 2-3mm before the end of its travel way. Is this normal?, should i keep them or try to return them?
 
Today I have tried to fix the pedals again, I've moved back gas potentiometer by 1 teeth. After this gas deadzone is ~2mm and it gets 100% speed for about 2-3mm before the end of its travel way. Is this normal?, should i keep them or try to return them?
That should be fine personally I highly doubt you will notice such small margins during gameplay.
 
Clearly, to me, GT6 FFB is the limiting factor. You are not experiencing anywhere near the true resolving capabilities of the T300 if you just use it in GT6. Let's hope PS4 games do better :)

Hopefully, other racing games on the PS4 won't feel like Drive Club. I just can't get a decent FFB feel from my T300RS wheel at all with it.
On the PS3 with GT6, I have no real complaints. The FFB is a lot better than the feel I had with my previous wheel (DFGT), but as you say, it's nothing like what you'll get from a PC sim. Unfortunately, I'm a console only racer so can't comment on PC sims which I should imagine, have a lot more FFB setup options, and better implementation than GT6 has.
I'm just hoping ProjectCARS gets the FFB right for the PS4 as I've invested high on £400 up to now in readiness for it, with more to spend on a set of T3PA PRO pedals when funds allow :eek:
 
Hi, anyone solved the clicking problem of t300rs?

This



I have, is it something related to the gears? Anyone has photos or solutions? I can't find anything over internet.
 
Hi, anyone solved the clicking problem of t300rs?

This



I have, is it something related to the gears? Anyone has photos or solutions? I can't find anything over internet.


Sometimes the incorrect placement of the wheel is the reason of this noise appears. take the wheel off and try to put it again in the best way ou can.
 
Well Cristian, then think that really is the belt. I posted two videos some pages back that shows this problem wih the wheel open, they are really short, but you can have a idea of what you'll find if you can't return the wheel. One shows the problem and other show the wheel easly fixed.

My wheel is 4 mounths old now everything is fine, thanks God!!
 
Well I finally (after owning the T300 for around 5 months) had a go with it on GT6.

The experience was somewhat underwhelming. These are my thoughts:
  1. It feels to me that the GT6 Thrustmaster FFB is tuned for the T500. On the PC I am used to the T300 resolving FFB detail better than the T500, but wasn't finding any more detail in GT6 (including such favorites as the ring in a car with stiff suspension). In fact, the greater dynamic range of the T500 gives clearer forces in GT6...
  2. Holding slides is one big benefit of the T300. Sooooo easy to flick it around and drift compared to the heavier more powerful T500. And the T300 spins much faster than a G25/27 so you can let the wheel do more of the work than a Logitech wheel. This behavior is obviously also true on PC sims, but glad to see it in GT6 as well.
  3. I found that I was getting clipping with FFB Torque set to 4 or higher. And oscillation on straights with FFB sensitivity set above 1. So I ended up at 3/1 setting during my testing, as compared to 2/1 on the T500.

Clearly, to me, GT6 FFB is the limiting factor. You are not experiencing anywhere near the true resolving capabilities of the T300 if you just use it in GT6. Let's hope PS4 games do better :)
Completely different wheel here(DFGT), but higher FFB sensitivity gives much more immersive FFB. I used to use at 1 or 2 but now i set it at 10. I almost bought the T300 a few weeks ago but Im enjoying so much the wheel now that Im gonna wait a little more.
 
Well Cristian, then think that really is the belt. I posted two videos some pages back that shows this problem wih the wheel open, they are really short, but you can have a idea of what you'll find if you can't return the wheel. One shows the problem and other show the wheel easly fixed.

My wheel is 4 mounths old now everything is fine, thanks God!!
Those videos are mine, but it was another problem, solved by rising up the ffb motor, the problem of the clunk noise is another thing, and i can't understand what the hell is. Someone said that there is a gear that have teeths of different dimension of those of the belt, so the belt moves left and right on these spaces doing "clunks"!
 
Does anyone know which courier Thrustmaster uses when shipping replacements? I had to ship them my wheelbase with UPS and yesterday I received an e-mail that they're sending me a replacement.
They provide a tracking code, but without mentioning the courier. It's not a UPS tracking code for sure. I also tried DHL, FedEx and TNT, but without result.
 
Those videos are mine, but it was another problem, solved by rising up the ffb motor, the problem of the clunk noise is another thing, and i can't understand what the hell is. Someone said that there is a gear that have teeths of different dimension of those of the belt, so the belt moves left and right on these spaces doing "clunks"!

Called thrustmaster, waiting For answer, i' m sure i will send them the wheel. Any idea if i must send the base or the whole set?
 
Just got my wheel, and I have lots of dead zone on brake, tad bit on gas.. but damn. I didn't realize this was a huge thing i can't drive like this..

Can anyone give me any advice or link me a post where someone took apart the pedals. i can't seem to find it.. i am stuck literally trying to find it while my pedals are apart
 
WOW! After 4 hours of messing with the pedals.. i got the Acc with no dead zone at all..

Then i mess with brake...

I got it with no dead zone, but couldn't apply full pressure.. keep messing with it.. (4 hrs lataaa) same spot.. had 75% pressure 25% none..

Then something came to mind, what if i unplug the pedals while t300rs control panel is still up an running.. BAM! 100% pressure no dead zone!

IF YOU'RE TRYING TO GET DEAD ZONE OUT OF YOUR PEDALS.. EVERY TIME YOU MAKE A TWEAK, UNPLUG YOUR PEDALS TO RE CALIBRATE..

Wow what a ******* relief!
 
WOW! After 4 hours of messing with the pedals.. i got the Acc with no dead zone at all..

Then i mess with brake...

I got it with no dead zone, but couldn't apply full pressure.. keep messing with it.. (4 hrs lataaa) same spot.. had 75% pressure 25% none..

Then something came to mind, what if i unplug the pedals while t300rs control panel is still up an running.. BAM! 100% pressure no dead zone!

IF YOU'RE TRYING TO GET DEAD ZONE OUT OF YOUR PEDALS.. EVERY TIME YOU MAKE A TWEAK, UNPLUG YOUR PEDALS TO RE CALIBRATE..

Wow what a ******* relief!
Took you long enough to get a t300 Jim lol.
 
Does anyone know which courier Thrustmaster uses when shipping replacements? I had to ship them my wheelbase with UPS and yesterday I received an e-mail that they're sending me a replacement.
They provide a tracking code, but without mentioning the courier. It's not a UPS tracking code for sure. I also tried DHL, FedEx and TNT, but without result.
WOW! After 4 hours of messing with the pedals.. i got the Acc with no dead zone at all..

Then i mess with brake...

I got it with no dead zone, but couldn't apply full pressure.. keep messing with it.. (4 hrs lataaa) same spot.. had 75% pressure 25% none..

Then something came to mind, what if i unplug the pedals while t300rs control panel is still up an running.. BAM! 100% pressure no dead zone!

IF YOU'RE TRYING TO GET DEAD ZONE OUT OF YOUR PEDALS.. EVERY TIME YOU MAKE A TWEAK, UNPLUG YOUR PEDALS TO RE CALIBRATE..

Wow what a ******* relief!
Same thing happened to me I posted such findings a while back shame you didn't trip over the post.:ouch::guilty::lol:
 
Does anyone know which courier Thrustmaster uses when shipping replacements? I had to ship them my wheelbase with UPS and yesterday I received an e-mail that they're sending me a replacement.
They provide a tracking code, but without mentioning the courier. It's not a UPS tracking code for sure. I also tried DHL, FedEx and TNT, but without result.

Ok, so my wheel base arrived out of the blue yesterday. They used some french courier I've never heard of, who handed it to the regular BPOST mail service. It didn't look like a replacement, as the serial number on the bottom side was the same. But at least it seems to be fixed. Hopefully it'll stay that way.

So from start to end it took almost a month.
 
Mine just went broke,
...(the other day).... I had been using for a few 10 minute stints, had a break, on return it was gently twitching/rocking L-R. Sending it back to Pagnian for replacement. I've had mine probably 4 months,run up <100 hrs in total.

Mine did that twitching rocking thing on it's own a couple of times a while back, but only if I just left it idle for a long time.
But..has not done this for a long time.. The wheel has not really had any problems.. However, today my stock pedals are starting to fail.. Got the creaking sound, and only 25% on the control panel with it fully depressed..

So, I'll have to take it apart and see what to do.. Haven't been to this page in quite a while, so I'll need to catch up around here and read what you all have done for this problem..Might not be able to reply to any comments for the rest of today but will be back here again tomorrow...

Edit:
Never mind, just popped it open, and it's irretrievably broken.. Cheap plastic where the linkage is.. For the actuator, or whatever it's called.. Broken..
 
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My new T300RS arrived, just had quick session with GT6 and noticed something.
Take a look:
DSC_0146.JPG


The gap between wheel shaft and the base itself differs. On the left it`s 3~4 mm, on the right 1 mm. More than that - it`s changing with wheel rotation, but right gap is always smaller then left. It looks like it wasn`t assembled properly or is it normal? How does it looks like on yours?
Other than than the wheel is perfectly fine, everything works and is great.
 
My new T300RS arrived, just had quick session with GT6 and noticed something.
Take a look:
View attachment 349772

The gap between wheel shaft and the base itself differs. On the left it`s 3~4 mm, on the right 1 mm. More than that - it`s changing with wheel rotation, but right gap is always smaller then left. It looks like it wasn`t assembled properly or is it normal? How does it looks like on yours?
Other than than the wheel is perfectly fine, everything works and is great.

Same here, anyone solve this problem?
 
I just got the 300 as an upgrade over the DFGT....I can navigate the ps3 interface with my buttons and petals both working. Then I load GT6 and it won't be registered at all and I can't use it. The manual doesn't help and I can't seem to find an answer on google.
 
I just got the 300 as an upgrade over the DFGT....I can navigate the ps3 interface with my buttons and petals both working. Then I load GT6 and it won't be registered at all and I can't use it. The manual doesn't help and I can't seem to find an answer on google.

Make sure you have the switch set to PS3 not PS4, that might be why.. Check it and see..
 
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