Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
skazz
For some cars I was finding FFB torque of 2-3 maximum, any higher was giving clipping. Out of interest, what FFB were you running, and did you try dropping it down to 1-2?
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5-6 ish, will drop it more and give it a go. Is clipping harmful to the wheel by the way or is it just in accurate FFB?

Thanks btw skazz
 
Clipping shouldn't be harmful to the wheel, just to your lap times or your control of the car. If you prefer heavier forces with occasional clipping and aren't suddenly losing the car in the faster corners due to lack of FFB, then no worries.

Personally I dislike the buzzing sensation and don't mind a lighter wheel, so I tune the T300 to be relatively light in all games.
 
While I'm waiting to hear back from thrustmaster about my faulty t300rs I have had to get a wheel to use with my ps4 so I got a t80 which was only 70 pound off amazon, and I have to say it is a brilliant little wheel for the price if not overall.
There is no rumble or ffb but the resistance in the wheel is fine for me,some people say it's too small but I have big hands and I find it spot on.
Just my opinion as a lot of people don't like it.
 
sems4arsenal
5-6 ish, will drop it more and give it a go. Is clipping harmful to the wheel by the way or is it just in accurate FFB?

Thanks btw skazz
Click to expand...

I did plug the wheel in the PS3 for the first time since I got it a month ago and played a bit with the settings. The power steering option that was OK with the DFGT is a no no with the T300. I was very happy how it felt on 2-2 – strong enough and without noticeable clipping.
 
One thing I don't like about this wheel is the clamp it uses to attach to the mounting surface. First of all, the rod used to tighten the clamp is rather large, and the way I have mine set up my knee bumps against it often. The rod is detachable, so I detached it, but now my knee hits the nub that still protrudes from the clamp, and it's rather painful when that happens. I wrapped some foam around it, and bumping my knee against it is no longer painful, but still somewhat annoying.

Second, the way the clamp is by design doesn't even work that well. It doesn't really clamp hard enough, and after a while I find that the wheel could shift. Also, if you push the wheel in an upward direction with even a small amount of force, the wheel base lifts up from the mounting surface. Which happens quite often if you use a shifter, and have to steer with one hand at times.

I suppose I could hard mount the wheel base with bolts, but I don't really feel like drilling holes in my table.
 
Awong124
One thing I don't like about this wheel is the clamp it uses to attach to the mounting surface. First of all, the rod used to tighten the clamp is rather large, and the way I have mine set up my knee bumps against it often. The rod is detachable, so I detached it, but now my knee hits the nub that still protrudes from the clamp, and it's rather painful when that happens. I wrapped some foam around it, and bumping my knee against it is no longer painful, but still somewhat annoying.

Second, the way the clamp is by design doesn't even work that well. It doesn't really clamp hard enough, and after a while I find that the wheel could shift. Also, if you push the wheel in an upward direction with even a small amount of force, the wheel base lifts up from the mounting surface. Which happens quite often if you use a shifter, and have to steer with one hand at times.

I suppose I could hard mount the wheel base with bolts, but I don't really feel like drilling holes in my table.
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I found that an anti-slip mat between the wheel base and the surface works great, no sliding.

Interestingly the rubber blocks on the T500 are noticeably thicker and grip better than the T300.....
 
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Since I had project CARS.. bugs, glitches, major FFB problems. This is what the game did to my wheel. Look at the 2ND photo, the circuit board.. the left screw is intact but loose the right screw was off, circuit board cracked.

FFB on Project CARS was weakening and cutting in and out during races and basically knocked off the circuit board and screws of this unit off.. completely off.

I had to disassemble the whole wheel itself while pretty much the fan, wheel shafts was all loose, but i had to find out what was the click clacking noise when I shook the base itself alone..
 
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^^
Wow..

Talking about the same game.. I was a bit curious also with my case where the wheel have went kaput, goes limp and no movement, only some "humming" noise heard. Some other users reporting the same case in pcars forum. So there is a chance problem coming from the same hardware+software combo, but that's just a wild guess.
 
JimBowL_
Since I had project CARS.. bugs, glitches, major FFB problems. This is what the game did to my wheel. Look at the 2ND photo, the circuit board.. the left screw is intact but loose the right screw was off, circuit board cracked.

FFB on Project CARS was weakening and cutting in and out during races and basically knocked off the circuit board and screws of this unit off.. completely off.

I had to disassemble the whole wheel itself while pretty much the fan, wheel shafts was all loose, but i had to find out what was the click clacking noise when I shook the base itself alone..
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Out of curiosity: your pics obviously don't show the power supply. Is this because you have already removed it, or is your wheel the alternative with the separate power brick?
 
Surely the wheel should be able to protect itself though?

Slightly off topic - It looks as though that fan could be swapped for something a bit quieter, it should be a simple diy job as it doesn't look anything special.
 
skazz
Out of curiosity: your pics obviously don't show the power supply. Is this because you have already removed it, or is your wheel the alternative with the separate power brick?
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It's the power supply that he removed which is what broke. ;)

Odd though as its in its own separate box and everything. I wouldn't have expected the stresses to be transferred to it.
 
Ian_83
It's the power supply that he removed which is what broke. ;)

Odd though as its in its own separate box and everything. I wouldn't have expected the stresses to be transferred to it.
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Hmm, shape looks different to the one in my wheel (from memory). I assume the 110V and 220-240V power supplies are not only different internals but also slightly different form then.
 
skazz
Hmm, shape looks different to the one in my wheel (from memory). I assume the 110V and 220-240V power supplies are not only different internals but also slightly different form then.
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That's the internal power pack, it has its own motor, really heavy. Theyre a few circuit boards for FFB lens, and power switch mode (ps3 ps4) and power supply itself. The black cable you see is the port of the cable.

Here's a link to the my PCARS forum post:
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?30486-Project-CARS-Damage-T300RS

1433897560451-1776556190.jpg
 
By the way, I never drilled a hole in the photo, second photo shows the damage... screw came off its place on the circuit board, cracked the circuit. I had to hot glue it, and place the screw with a bunch of thread seal tape..

Now it's fixed and it calibrates smooth.. still does the loud BANG with it calibrates clockwise (full right) obviously cause it's calibrates from a full counter clockwise.. it's to be expected.

FYI: don't grab the wheel to soften the blow of calibrating motion you might snap over the belt teeth.. therefore a loud skipping clunk noise. Careful!
 
JimBowL_
By the way, I never drilled a hole in the photo, second photo shows the damage... screw came off its place on the circuit board, cracked the circuit. I had to hot glue it, and place the screw with a bunch of thread seal tape..

Now it's fixed and it calibrates smooth.. still does the loud BANG with it calibrates clockwise (full right) obviously cause it's calibrates from a full counter clockwise.. it's to be expected.

FYI: don't grab the wheel to soften the blow of calibrating motion you might snap over the belt teeth.. therefore a loud skipping clunk noise. Careful!
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To be honest, I can't see how on earth that managed to break, especially there. There shouldn't be any forces being transmitted through the transformer (power) enclosure due to FFB within the game. It's more than likely something like fatigue from the wheel calibrating and hitting the end stop which would give everything within the wheel base a hard knock.

What is the plastic quality like? It looks a bit hard and brittle in the pics.
 
Question..... Are the pedals from a T500rs setup compatible with the T300rs right out of the box or do you need to update the drivers for them to work? I am getting my T300 today and want to use the pedals from my T500 but don't want to screw up my new wheel without setting it up correctly the first time.

I also have the same question for my Ferrari F1 wheel......update or ok to use right out of the box?

I am using only a PS3 platform.

My T500 will not bootload......I cannot wake it up and have tried all the ways I have read including spending 2 hours on hold for Thrustmaster support....so I decided to buy a T300rs.
 
Had my first issue with the T300 - only once but - I had the random button press. I was racing then all of a sudden my view changed - so that for me would be the square button. I was able to keep going and set it back then go another 30mins without seeing it again. This is after about roughly 60 hours of usage first time I have seen it.

Edit - There was one thing I was doing differently this morning, I had my dualshock4 also on and connected as I was using it to get sound to my headphones. Normally I only have my wheel connected - my wireless headphones where charging.
 
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Ian_83
To be honest, I can't see how on earth that managed to break, especially there. There shouldn't be any forces being transmitted through the transformer (power) enclosure due to FFB within the game. It's more than likely something like fatigue from the wheel calibrating and hitting the end stop which would give everything within the wheel base a hard knock.

What is the plastic quality like? It looks a bit hard and brittle in the pics.
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That's it, the game caused my wheel to calibrate wild during game session. The Centering spring its stupid.. sometimes im in pit and the wheel just goes wild as in full counterclockwise and jolts back and forth.. and the wheel calibrates with the hard knock since.. it's OK now. I fix it. Plastic is pretty damn tough.
 
JimBowL_
That's it, the game caused my wheel to calibrate wild during game session. The Centering spring its stupid.. sometimes im in pit and the wheel just goes wild as in full counterclockwise and jolts back and forth.. and the wheel calibrates with the hard knock since.. it's OK now. I fix it. Plastic is pretty damn tough.
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I had the same problem before. I set the wheel to 900 degree mode (red LED flashing 4 times), then reset the wheel in the options, and recalibrated it and it stopped going crazy.
 
Same day Logitech officially announces the G29/G920, Thrustmaster makes an apology.. Interesting yes.. but with the specs of the G29, I am still very happy with my T300.

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Hi fellow T300 owners!
Bought the wheel a week ago. Put in a good 15-20 hours in it, but the wheels friction still seem way too hard. Is this normal (wheel disconnected from usb, power)?



Have other issues, but those are just annoying, cosmetic ones, like these:
Thanks!
 
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dutyfree
Hi fellow T300 owners!
Bought the wheel a week ago. Put in a good 15-20 hours in it, but the wheels friction still seem way too hard. Is this normal (wheel disconnected from usb, power)?
Have other issues, but those are just annoying, cosmetic ones, like these:
Thanks!
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Well I am guessing mine has about roughly 50-60 hours on it just over a month average 2 hours a day..

Anyways, I hear that same kinda noise (light grinding noise) very hard to hear while the wheel is calibrating. I can hear it if I power it off and turn the wheel by hand. It has been doing that I guess for awhile but not sure how long as I normally walk away before calibration starts and I play with a headset on. I read the same thing about it being normal (possibly) and have decided to just ignore it for now. I do not plan to modify it in anyway so the warranty will be valid for another 10-11 months. If it gets worse I will contact them.
 
Spitfire77
Well I am guessing mine has about roughly 50-60 hours on it just over a month average 2 hours a day..

Anyways, I hear that same kinda noise (light grinding noise) very hard to hear while the wheel is calibrating. I can hear it if I power it off and turn the wheel by hand. It has been doing that I guess for awhile but not sure how long as I normally walk away before calibration starts and I play with a headset on. I read the same thing about it being normal (possibly) and have decided to just ignore it for now. I do not plan to modify it in anyway so the warranty will be valid for another 10-11 months. If it gets worse I will contact them.
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Thank you for the reply!
Actually my main question is not about the noise, its about the internal friction of the wheel, the "distance" the wheel makes in the video when i push it. The thing i'm really interested in is whether all t300 is like mine, or are they making 490 degree rotation to the end even when you blow at them:)
My t300 seems like the same, or maybe a little bit better than the t500 in this video:
 
So how bad are the stock pedals? Are they better than DFGT pedals? Has anyone tried skateboard bushing like the T500 brake mod or is the plastic too weak to handle it? I'm moving to Germany in a month and was thinking of getting the G29 until I saw the official price. Now I'm thinking the T300 and have seen it for as low as €329. The only thing holding me back from a sure thing purchase is doubt about the pedals.

Edit: why is the poll only viewable after voting? The results could be important to people looking to make a purchase but they can't see them unless making a fake vote.
 
mcfizzle
So how bad are the stock pedals? Are they better than DFGT pedals? Has anyone tried skateboard bushing like the T500 brake mod or is the plastic too weak to handle it? I'm moving to Germany in a month and was thinking of getting the G29 until I saw the official price. Now I'm thinking the T300 and have seen it for as low as €329. The only thing holding me back from a sure thing purchase is doubt about the pedals.

Edit: why is the poll only viewable after voting? The results could be important to people looking to make a purchase but they can't see them unless making a fake vote.
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They are not as bad as everybody makes them out to be. I would say they have only slightly less resistance than the G27 pedals. Maybe 80% of G27's pedal resistance.
 
dutyfree
Thank you for the reply!
Actually my main question is not about the noise, its about the internal friction of the wheel, the "distance" the wheel makes in the video when i push it. The thing i'm really interested in is whether all t300 is like mine, or are they making 490 degree rotation to the end even when you blow at them:)
My t300 seems like the same, or maybe a little bit better than the t500 in this video:
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ohhh well here is mine.. powered off spinning with finger. It does seem to have a good amount of resistance. Sorry the video is dark, do not have much lighting in that part of our place.

Edit - I just watched it.. it really does not sound that bad in person.. crappy cell phone mic.

 
I apologize if it's been addressed, but my wheel won't save it's rotation settings on GT6. From other sources I've seen, it's not possible. Is that correct or am I missing something?
 

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