- 321
- Nantwich
- theiceman1
Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
- 3,494 comments
- 572,440 views
- 1,324
- Vancouver, BC
- Awong124
Yes you can. I've tried. You just have to turn autoclutch off. It still works even if the TH8A is connected.
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- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
- Edit 3 - Thrustmaster has already responded and is starting the RMA process.
I am starting to experience this "clunk" when turning my T300 wheel back and forth from center when it is powered on. (either in ps4 menu,or while racing in project cars) started to happen after I was doing a career race, leaving the pits there was a harsh sudden FFB forcing my wheel to the right. It happened in practice and in Qualifying leaving the pits..
Here is an example video from earlier in this thread - not my video but exactly the same thing I am now experiencing. Should I report it to Thrustmaster Support or is it part of the break in process?
Edit- I also saw this post about a possible fix.. also another saying to open up the base and tighten "non-red painted" screws.
Edit2- I will take a video tonight and send it to Thrustmaster anyway to get the ball rolling.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ing-wheel-thread.311143/page-22#post-10157609
I am starting to experience this "clunk" when turning my T300 wheel back and forth from center when it is powered on. (either in ps4 menu,or while racing in project cars) started to happen after I was doing a career race, leaving the pits there was a harsh sudden FFB forcing my wheel to the right. It happened in practice and in Qualifying leaving the pits..
Here is an example video from earlier in this thread - not my video but exactly the same thing I am now experiencing. Should I report it to Thrustmaster Support or is it part of the break in process?
Edit- I also saw this post about a possible fix.. also another saying to open up the base and tighten "non-red painted" screws.
Edit2- I will take a video tonight and send it to Thrustmaster anyway to get the ball rolling.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ing-wheel-thread.311143/page-22#post-10157609
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- 101
- SoCal
- JimBowL_
That clunking noise is the shaft pins holding the belt itself, its an very VERY easy fix.
If or when you open the wheel just squeeze the belt with your pinching fingers, at the same time rotating slowly to find the loose bolt.. easy fix buddy buddy.
The bolts they use from thrustmaster are very.. ehh cheap. My nephews toys has better screws and brackets than the wheel.. kind of &%#*&!%#&@!^#$&#$%&!^#^ well.. you get the point HA!
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Awesome thanks for the info - I already sent the info to Thrustmaster - I can live with it for now. I will let them do the work once they finally decide to pay for me to ship it to them. It is not that I can't do it.. I just want them to uphold their warranty and stand by their product that I paid $400 for.
If it was past the 1 year warranty you know for sure I would already have opened it up and fixed and modded it. - So I will save your instructions for later
- Edit - Thrustmaster has already gotten back to me and asked for address, phonenumber and a picture of the sticker on the bottom of the base to start the RMA process. They must have really stepped up customer service because that is only 29 hours for them to respond to my email and ask for info to start the RMA process!
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So I notice you can change the range of the steering wheel on the computer software and then sometimes on games as well like drive club, how does that affect the range then? Are both going at the same time or should I leave one at default?
Second question, any tips to not suck? Lol I'm decent at racing games with a controller but man this wheel and pedals are throwing me for a loop, still trying to figure out how to make good turns and drift, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Second question, any tips to not suck? Lol I'm decent at racing games with a controller but man this wheel and pedals are throwing me for a loop, still trying to figure out how to make good turns and drift, any suggestions would be appreciated.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
I got my shipping labels from Thrustmaster for the RMA and sending my T300 out today. It has to go to Canada for repair. I hope it does not take too long, my T3PA-Pros arrive in two days. 
Edit - They paid for basically the cheapest shipping .. 9 days for them to even get it. So I wont have my wheel for likely 20+ days..
Edit - They paid for basically the cheapest shipping .. 9 days for them to even get it. So I wont have my wheel for likely 20+ days..
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- 3,942
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
Yes, all TM rims from the TX, T500 and T300RS or T300GTE are interoperable.
Note that you can buy the 458 GTE wheel rim separately (http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/ferrari-gte-wheel-add-ferrari-458-challenge-edition costs around €70) and it will work on the TX, T500, T300RS and T300GTE.
You can also buy the leather-wrapped TM-28 rim if you prefer. http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/tm-leather-28-gt-wheel-add It costs more than the 458 GTE rim but is lighter, less plastic around the buttons and leather wrapped rim.
Note that all these options are covered in the OP of this thread.
Hi everyone, first post!
I just got the T300RS a few days ago (coming from G27) and so for really like it. Works perfect except for one thing....
I noticed that when the wheel starts up and does it's calibration - that when the wheel spins around I noticed it's not perfectly straight, or rather looks like it wobbles a touch. The wheel is 100% solid but if I put the wheel face down on a table it's not perfectly flush with the table.
I'm assuming most wheels are like this (for the T300RS)? Can anyone else confirm the same? You can see from this youtube video what I mean (this is not mine, but it looks wobbly like mine - mind you, just looks wobbly due to not being perfectly symmetrical - it's actually very solid).
Many thanks for the input!!
I just got the T300RS a few days ago (coming from G27) and so for really like it. Works perfect except for one thing....
I noticed that when the wheel starts up and does it's calibration - that when the wheel spins around I noticed it's not perfectly straight, or rather looks like it wobbles a touch. The wheel is 100% solid but if I put the wheel face down on a table it's not perfectly flush with the table.
I'm assuming most wheels are like this (for the T300RS)? Can anyone else confirm the same? You can see from this youtube video what I mean (this is not mine, but it looks wobbly like mine - mind you, just looks wobbly due to not being perfectly symmetrical - it's actually very solid).
Many thanks for the input!!
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Thank you, appreciate it!!
You have the T300RS and the DFGT? Cheers!
Yes I have had the DFGT for many years for my ps3 - still works but after using the T300 it feels sub-par
I got the T300 just about 2 months ago but it developed an issue (still worked but it was annoying clicking/clunking feeling while turning back and forth) so it is in the RMA process right now and I should have it back in about 15-20 days.
- 27
- United States
Joining the club....my first wheel 
frys had the 80$ off code with free shipping today. Im sure this will be a huge change for me...been using a controller since Gran Tourismo 1 lol
frys had the 80$ off code with free shipping today. Im sure this will be a huge change for me...been using a controller since Gran Tourismo 1 lolI'm sure you'll love it! It's a fair bit better then my "old" G27, although the G27 felt a touch smoother when turning the wheel with the force feedback off, as with the T300RS I can feel the little "knobs" in the drive belt as they pass over the gears, such as when you over tighten a drive belt in other applications (although I'm sure it's on purpose considering the FF)
Overall, great wheel
Overall, great wheel
Joining the club....my first wheel
- 4,440
- zr1chris
- zr1chris
Joining the club....my first wheel
It's a whole new world going from a controller to a wheel. You'll never want to use a controller for Sim racing again.
- 2,232
- Lincolnshire
- PleaseD1e
- 27
- United States
I waited for the sale, plus i wanted something for pc,ps3 and ps4...i hope GT7 turns out good and maybe ill buy a ps4
- 146
- Danville
- Glipizide78
Have had my T300 since February and already had a rma on the base and have to send shifter in as well as nothing reads it. Like some say it is way better imho than G27 I sold to get wheel and stand, base TM sent me back is way better than one I originally had before rma done
- 146
- Danville
- Glipizide78
Shouldn't be that long..i sent mine back from Kentucky and had new sent back in a week
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
Cool, I would hope so - but when I checked the expected delivery date (which could be completely wrong) it said it would arrive July 2nd which was 9 days. So there was no way I was going to get it back in 1 week or even less than two if the expected shipping is correct.
- 185
- Sunderland
Well just got my wheel back from being repaired, took just over two weeks in total and seems ok so far.
- 1,324
- Vancouver, BC
- Awong124
I just got my TM28 leather wheel yesterday, and I freakin' love it! It feels so nice. It smells like the interior of a Mercedes. I don't know if maybe it's because the original wheel's rubber provides more damping than the leather, or maybe it's just a placebo effect, but the FFB seems to feel slightly better and more detailed with this wheel than the original wheel.
The only bad thing is that the button placements aren't as good as the RS wheel. I'm sure I'd get used to it, but I'm not a fan of the mapping of that rotary knob thing. Currently pressing down on the knob is the PS button, turning it clockwise is the Option button, and turning it counter clockwise is the Share button. I would prefer it if pressing down on it is the Option button by default as I use that much more than the PS button, and I currently always end up going back to the XMB menu by mistake when trying to pause the game, then end up spearing into a wall or something because PCARS doesn't pause when you press the PS button to go back to the XMB menu.
The only bad thing is that the button placements aren't as good as the RS wheel. I'm sure I'd get used to it, but I'm not a fan of the mapping of that rotary knob thing. Currently pressing down on the knob is the PS button, turning it clockwise is the Option button, and turning it counter clockwise is the Share button. I would prefer it if pressing down on it is the Option button by default as I use that much more than the PS button, and I currently always end up going back to the XMB menu by mistake when trying to pause the game, then end up spearing into a wall or something because PCARS doesn't pause when you press the PS button to go back to the XMB menu.
- 2,232
- Lincolnshire
- PleaseD1e
Are Thrustmaster still asking customers to post videos of their fault prior to starting the RMA process?
It's a silly practice, because it's flooding websites such as YouTube with videos of faulty wheels, which is hardly good PR/advertising for a company. They might wish to review that idea.
It's a silly practice, because it's flooding websites such as YouTube with videos of faulty wheels, which is hardly good PR/advertising for a company. They might wish to review that idea.
