Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
skazz
I can only speak from experience on PC using the TH8A as separate USB device. In that case the paddle shifters and TH8A in 7-speed H-box mode have different mapping buttons, so you always have both the paddles and the H-box available.

pCARS actually forces you to use the appropriate shifting device in this case. E.g. the Ginetta juniors have paddles but need clutch for upshifts, so you are indeed running with clutch (off the line, all upshifts) and paddles. The GT3 cars and most race cars only use the clutch off the line and don't need clutch to change gear while moving. Road cars and vintage race cars which have H-box obviously require clutch use for up- and downshifts.

So yes, pCARS is awesome about having paddles and clutch and H-box all available.

I've never tried without the H-box present, but I assume pCARS will force you to use the clutch appropriately, and just handle all shifting with the paddles.
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Much appreciated...will give it a go!!
 
Theiceman1
So would like to know the following...? Can u use the paddle shifters on wheel together with the clutch on T3pa pedal set with Pcars or do u have to use the Th8a shifter?
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Yes you can. I've tried. You just have to turn autoclutch off. It still works even if the TH8A is connected.
 
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- Edit 3 - Thrustmaster has already responded and is starting the RMA process.

I am starting to experience this "clunk" when turning my T300 wheel back and forth from center when it is powered on. (either in ps4 menu,or while racing in project cars) started to happen after I was doing a career race, leaving the pits there was a harsh sudden FFB forcing my wheel to the right. It happened in practice and in Qualifying leaving the pits..

Here is an example video from earlier in this thread - not my video but exactly the same thing I am now experiencing. Should I report it to Thrustmaster Support or is it part of the break in process?

Edit- I also saw this post about a possible fix.. also another saying to open up the base and tighten "non-red painted" screws.

Edit2- I will take a video tonight and send it to Thrustmaster anyway to get the ball rolling.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ing-wheel-thread.311143/page-22#post-10157609

 
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Spitfire77
I am starting to experience this "clunk" when turning my T300 wheel back and forth from center when it is powered on. (either in ps4 menu,or while racing in project cars) started to happen after I was doing a career race, leaving the pits there was a harsh sudden FFB forcing my wheel to the right. It happened in practice and in Qualifying leaving the pits..

Here is an example video from earlier in this thread - not my video but exactly the same thing I am now experiencing. Should I report it to Thrustmaster Support or is it part of the break in process?

Edit- I also saw this post about a possible fix.. also another saying to open up the base and tighten "non-red painted" screws.

Edit2- I will take a video tonight and send it to Thrustmaster anyway to get the ball rolling.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ing-wheel-thread.311143/page-22#post-10157609

Click to expand...

That clunking noise is the shaft pins holding the belt itself, its an very VERY easy fix.

If or when you open the wheel just squeeze the belt with your pinching fingers, at the same time rotating slowly to find the loose bolt.. easy fix buddy buddy.

The bolts they use from thrustmaster are very.. ehh cheap. My nephews toys has better screws and brackets than the wheel.. kind of &%#*&!%#&@!^#$&#$%&!^#^ well.. you get the point HA!
 
JimBowL_
That clunking noise is the shaft pins holding the belt itself, its an very VERY easy fix.

If or when you open the wheel just squeeze the belt with your pinching fingers, at the same time rotating slowly to find the loose bolt.. easy fix buddy buddy.

The bolts they use from thrustmaster are very.. ehh cheap. My nephews toys has better screws and brackets than the wheel.. kind of &%#*&!%#&@!^#$&#$%&!^#^ well.. you get the point HA!
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Awesome thanks for the info - I already sent the info to Thrustmaster - I can live with it for now. I will let them do the work once they finally decide to pay for me to ship it to them. It is not that I can't do it.. I just want them to uphold their warranty and stand by their product that I paid $400 for.

If it was past the 1 year warranty you know for sure I would already have opened it up and fixed and modded it. - So I will save your instructions for later :cheers:

- Edit - Thrustmaster has already gotten back to me and asked for address, phonenumber and a picture of the sticker on the bottom of the base to start the RMA process. They must have really stepped up customer service because that is only 29 hours for them to respond to my email and ask for info to start the RMA process!
 
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So I notice you can change the range of the steering wheel on the computer software and then sometimes on games as well like drive club, how does that affect the range then? Are both going at the same time or should I leave one at default?
Second question, any tips to not suck? Lol I'm decent at racing games with a controller but man this wheel and pedals are throwing me for a loop, still trying to figure out how to make good turns and drift, any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
zero_zep
So I notice you can change the range of the steering wheel on the computer software and then sometimes on games as well like drive club, how does that affect the range then? Are both going at the same time or should I leave one at default?
Second question, any tips to not suck? Lol I'm decent at racing games with a controller but man this wheel and pedals are throwing me for a loop, still trying to figure out how to make good turns and drift, any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Don't try drifting yet, just learn the basics.

You need to be very smooth and progressive with your inputs.
 
I got my shipping labels from Thrustmaster for the RMA and sending my T300 out today. It has to go to Canada for repair. I hope it does not take too long, my T3PA-Pros arrive in two days. :grumpy:

Edit - They paid for basically the cheapest shipping .. 9 days for them to even get it. So I wont have my wheel for likely 20+ days..
 
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Anyone know if the T300RS GTE wheel, would work on XBOX ONE TX base, i have a TX but looking a T300RS for the PS4, just wondering could they be swapped, cos im not a big fan of 458 wheel on the tx
 
Camokozzy
Anyone know if the T300RS GTE wheel, would work on XBOX ONE TX base, i have a TX but looking a T300RS for the PS4, just wondering could they be swapped, cos im not a big fan of 458 wheel on the tx
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Yes, all TM rims from the TX, T500 and T300RS or T300GTE are interoperable.

Note that you can buy the 458 GTE wheel rim separately (http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/ferrari-gte-wheel-add-ferrari-458-challenge-edition costs around €70) and it will work on the TX, T500, T300RS and T300GTE.

You can also buy the leather-wrapped TM-28 rim if you prefer. http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/tm-leather-28-gt-wheel-add It costs more than the 458 GTE rim but is lighter, less plastic around the buttons and leather wrapped rim.


Note that all these options are covered in the OP of this thread.
 
Hi everyone, first post!

I just got the T300RS a few days ago (coming from G27) and so for really like it. Works perfect except for one thing....

I noticed that when the wheel starts up and does it's calibration - that when the wheel spins around I noticed it's not perfectly straight, or rather looks like it wobbles a touch. The wheel is 100% solid but if I put the wheel face down on a table it's not perfectly flush with the table.

I'm assuming most wheels are like this (for the T300RS)? Can anyone else confirm the same? You can see from this youtube video what I mean (this is not mine, but it looks wobbly like mine - mind you, just looks wobbly due to not being perfectly symmetrical - it's actually very solid).



Many thanks for the input!!
 
Tobarus
Hi everyone, first post!

I just got the T300RS a few days ago (coming from G27) and so for really like it. Works perfect except for one thing....

I noticed that when the wheel starts up and does it's calibration - that when the wheel spins around I noticed it's not perfectly straight, or rather looks like it wobbles a touch. The wheel is 100% solid but if I put the wheel face down on a table it's not perfectly flush with the table.

I'm assuming most wheels are like this (for the T300RS)? Can anyone else confirm the same? You can see from this youtube video what I mean (this is not mine, but it looks wobbly like mine - mind you, just looks wobbly due to not being perfectly symmetrical - it's actually very solid).



Many thanks for the input!!
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A slight wobble is not a big deal I do not think - mine has it. So does my DFGT. The one in the video looks normal to me. (besides it spinning around and around over and over again)
 
Tobarus
Thank you, appreciate it!! :)

You have the T300RS and the DFGT? Cheers!
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Yes I have had the DFGT for many years for my ps3 - still works but after using the T300 it feels sub-par

I got the T300 just about 2 months ago but it developed an issue (still worked but it was annoying clicking/clunking feeling while turning back and forth) so it is in the RMA process right now and I should have it back in about 15-20 days.
 
Joining the club....my first wheel :) frys had the 80$ off code with free shipping today. Im sure this will be a huge change for me...been using a controller since Gran Tourismo 1 lol
 
I'm sure you'll love it! It's a fair bit better then my "old" G27, although the G27 felt a touch smoother when turning the wheel with the force feedback off, as with the T300RS I can feel the little "knobs" in the drive belt as they pass over the gears, such as when you over tighten a drive belt in other applications (although I'm sure it's on purpose considering the FF)

Overall, great wheel

DocHollid4y
Joining the club....my first wheel :) frys had the 80$ off code with free shipping today. Im sure this will be a huge change for me...been using a controller since Gran Tourismo 1 lol
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DocHollid4y
Joining the club....my first wheel :) frys had the 80$ off code with free shipping today. Im sure this will be a huge change for me...been using a controller since Gran Tourismo 1 lol
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It's a whole new world going from a controller to a wheel. You'll never want to use a controller for Sim racing again.
 
zr1chris
It's a whole new world going from a controller to a wheel. You'll never want to use a controller for Sim racing again.
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This is very true. 👍

I thought that I didn't need a wheel, I was quick using the DS3, but since buying a G27 I haven't played a racing sim without it and I wouldn't even consider doing so. (Which is why I'm so gutted that the G27 doesn't work with the PS4 [yet].)
 
Have had my T300 since February and already had a rma on the base and have to send shifter in as well as nothing reads it. Like some say it is way better imho than G27 I sold to get wheel and stand, base TM sent me back is way better than one I originally had before rma done
 
Spitfire77
Yes I have had the DFGT for many years for my ps3 - still works but after using the T300 it feels sub-par

I got the T300 just about 2 months ago but it developed an issue (still worked but it was annoying clicking/clunking feeling while turning back and forth) so it is in the RMA process right now and I should have it back in about 15-20 days.
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Shouldn't be that long..i sent mine back from Kentucky and had new sent back in a week
 
Glipizide78
Shouldn't be that long..i sent mine back from Kentucky and had new sent back in a week
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Cool, I would hope so - but when I checked the expected delivery date (which could be completely wrong) it said it would arrive July 2nd which was 9 days. So there was no way I was going to get it back in 1 week or even less than two if the expected shipping is correct.
 
Mine was fast (less than 2 weeks from when the wheel arrived to have it replaced), but I'll have to fly there to get it because they want over $400 to ship it over to my country (South America).
 
I just got my TM28 leather wheel yesterday, and I freakin' love it! It feels so nice. It smells like the interior of a Mercedes. I don't know if maybe it's because the original wheel's rubber provides more damping than the leather, or maybe it's just a placebo effect, but the FFB seems to feel slightly better and more detailed with this wheel than the original wheel.

The only bad thing is that the button placements aren't as good as the RS wheel. I'm sure I'd get used to it, but I'm not a fan of the mapping of that rotary knob thing. Currently pressing down on the knob is the PS button, turning it clockwise is the Option button, and turning it counter clockwise is the Share button. I would prefer it if pressing down on it is the Option button by default as I use that much more than the PS button, and I currently always end up going back to the XMB menu by mistake when trying to pause the game, then end up spearing into a wall or something because PCARS doesn't pause when you press the PS button to go back to the XMB menu.
 
Spitfire77
- Edit 3 - Thrustmaster has already responded and is starting the RMA process.

I am starting to experience this "clunk" when turning my T300 wheel back and forth from center when it is powered on. (either in ps4 menu,or while racing in project cars) started to happen after I was doing a career race, leaving the pits there was a harsh sudden FFB forcing my wheel to the right. It happened in practice and in Qualifying leaving the pits..

Here is an example video from earlier in this thread - not my video but exactly the same thing I am now experiencing. Should I report it to Thrustmaster Support or is it part of the break in process?

Edit- I also saw this post about a possible fix.. also another saying to open up the base and tighten "non-red painted" screws.

Edit2- I will take a video tonight and send it to Thrustmaster anyway to get the ball rolling.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ing-wheel-thread.311143/page-22#post-10157609

Click to expand...

Another one....
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_kiGpFcjx3VR1Jhd0xfdVFReFk
 
Are Thrustmaster still asking customers to post videos of their fault prior to starting the RMA process?

It's a silly practice, because it's flooding websites such as YouTube with videos of faulty wheels, which is hardly good PR/advertising for a company. They might wish to review that idea.
 
Ian_83
Are Thrustmaster still asking customers to post videos of their fault prior to starting the RMA process?

It's a silly practice, because it's flooding websites such as YouTube with videos of faulty wheels, which is hardly good PR/advertising for a company. They might wish to review that idea.
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This is my second T300RS wheel. The new one have only 2 months and i don´t play 8 hours a day. I don´t have any problem with G27 wheel.
 

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