Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[Oi Oi JC]

Anyways this is what my CSL Elite V2 pedals are doing now when hooked up to GT DD Extreme in GT7.
I guess load cell is failing, it's falling out of calibration, but also there's an invisible phantom glitch every few seconds that resets the upper brake deadzone limit when in calibration screen in GT7. I wonder if anyone else has that glitch where it resets the upper calibration. Might be pedals, might be FW/ wheel.. not sure. 🤷‍♂️

This may or may not be news to you, but when in calibration mode, if you hold the brake pressure at a certain point for something like 3 or 4 seconds the pedals will set that as the new maximum (100%) pressure point.
That may be why your upper dead zone keeps changing?

 

[Kriptical]

@xDriver69x

Fair enough.

This is the ddX in game 10/8
100/100/100
ndp 29.
The rest, zero.

Compared to prepatch this is actually quite decent. Prior to this the oscillations were stronger and occupied a wider radius. As long as the wheel is turning it behaves. Its only on the straights once the vehicle is moving fast that it decides to get squirrelly. Im of the mind that this is created by road textures coming in without (enough) dampening and as previously stated, I haven’t even plugged the base into a pc, let alone change anything. So kinda thinking this is PD. But hey, firmware for fanatec has been a wild ride this year. Maybe its both of them.

Fortunately, since Thursday, gr3 and below are pretty good. Gr1 and the prototypes however are still a bit annoying.

 

[PirovacBoy]

A question to all of you guys on a DD+.
After a few days of testing and accommodating to the new FFB / ABS Physics, have you noticed the change of ABS FFB Feedback?
One very obvious effect is missing.
The Trailbraking FFB effect which was very obvious when you hit it spot on.
I don't know how to specifically describe it but there was this feel to the brakes when you perfectly nailed the revs according to the amount of brake pressure while releasing the brakes on turn in.
It's gone.
Completely.
It felt like a slight hum/buzz which perfectly matched the rotational speed the car was doing.
Very noticeable on Mr Cars.
I don't know if it's down to the physics change but It feels as if a lot of direct force effects related to the suspension/ braking have been muted.
The cars all feel very stable and only in the very latest moments the brakes seem to produce an effect to the FFB, especially the understeer rattle.
It's got shifted towards the very last 10%, where before it could be triggered way earlier.
Therefore everything feels as if it has been accelerated in terms of driving dynamics.

But anyway it feels good.
Not as good as before because of some missing effects but as always it's just a matter of getting used to the new behavior.
The FFB still feels very good and direct but because of the muted / cut out ABS interference, braking has become more of a muscle memory thing rather then a FFB induced perception / reaction.

@Kriptical
That amount of oscillating you get in your Wheel is nutz 😅
I was like OK, a few more minutes and his wrists are mud 😁

 

[Kriptical]

A question to all of you guys on a DD+.
After a few days of testing and accommodating to the new FFB / ABS Physics, have you noticed the change of ABS FFB Feedback?
One very obvious effect is missing.
The Trailbraking FFB effect which was very obvious when you hit it spot on.
I don't know how to specifically describe it but there was this feel to the brakes when you perfectly nailed the revs according to the amount of brake pressure while releasing the brakes on turn in.
It's gone.
Completely.
It felt like a slight hum/buzz which perfectly matched the rotational speed the car was doing.
Very noticeable on Mr Cars.
I don't know if it's down to the physics change but It feels as if a lot of direct force effects related to the suspension/ braking have been muted.
The cars all feel very stable and only in the very latest moments the brakes seem to produce an effect to the FFB, especially the understeer rattle.
It's got shifted towards the very last 10%, where before it could be triggered way earlier.
Therefore everything feels as if it has been accelerated in terms of driving dynamics.

But anyway it feels good.
Not as good as before because of some missing effects but as always it's just a matter of getting used to the new behavior.
The FFB still feels very good and direct but because of the muted / cut out ABS interference, braking has become more of a muscle memory thing rather then a FFB induced perception / reaction.

@Kriptical
That amount of oscillating you get in your Wheel is nutz 😅
I was like OK, a few more minutes and his wrists are mud 😁

Yeah. That little shimmy shake/chatter when you were on the edge is gone. Which is disappointing as i liked to find time dancing on the edge of that line. Without its guidance i kinda find kyself stomping a bit more. Which isn’t faster. Switched abs off this morning to remind my left foot where the line is, then returned it to weak, seems to help. I do like the feeling of abs off. Just don’t think i could manage other peoples code browns during a race without stomping too hard. Maybe someday that control will build in the left foot.

It may have been more difficult before. But in my experience when you stand on the brakes, like.. code brown level standing on em, modern cars included..things get a little funny. Now thats gone.

As you said though, the rest is pretty good and has been a lot of fun so far. Oscillating prototypes and gr1’s aside and all 😝

 

[PirovacBoy]

Yeah. That little shimmy shake/chatter when you were on the edge is gone. Which is disappointing as i liked to find time dancing on the edge of that line. Without its guidance i kinda find kyself stomping a bit more. Which isn’t faster. Switched abs off this morning to remind my left foot where the line is, then returned it to weak, seems to help. I do like the feeling of abs off. Just don’t think i could manage other peoples code browns during a race without stomping too hard. Maybe someday that control will build in the left foot.

It may have been more difficult before. But in my experience when you stand on the brakes, like.. code brown level standing on em, modern cars included..things get a little funny. Now thats gone.

As you said though, the rest is pretty good and has been a lot of fun so far. Oscillating prototypes and gr1’s aside and all 😝

Yeah doing the Barney Rubbleheimer stomp on the brakes heels to the tarmac definitely produces less wiggle which indeed takes away fine brake modulation 😅

Hopefully your DD+ will reach its first Birthday.
You are definitely giving it some hard time, but hey German engineering never fails huh 😁

 

[Kriptical]

Yeah doing the Barney Rubbleheimer stomp on the brakes heels to the tarmac definitely produces less wiggle which indeed takes away fine brake modulation 😅

Hopefully your DD+ will reach its first Birthday.
You are definitely giving it some hard time, but hey German engineering never fails huh 😁

Hah. If its going to die, I’d prefer it do it within warranty 😝. I was at around 7/8 ffb until relatively recently…but once they put out the physics patch i spent some time with regular cars i was familiar with and this felt pretty good. Figure i don’t know race cars, so do something you know and let the chips fall where they may on the other cars. I’ll just kind of continue avoiding gr1 and prototypes.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Hah. If its going to die, I’d prefer it do it within warranty 😝. I was at around 7/8 ffb until relatively recently…but once they put out the physics patch i spent some time with regular cars i was familiar with and this felt pretty good. Figure i don’t know race cars, so do something you know and let the chips fall where they may on the other cars. I’ll just kind of continue avoiding gr1 and prototypes.

Gr1s and high downforce cars in general are a tough nut to crack in terms of getting the Oscillations to a reasonable level if not eliminating them at all.
From my testings, I managed to eliminate them almost completely by doing the following.
It all depends on a few variables though.
The higher the in game sensitivity the more of NDP has to be added and the more the FOR as well as the FEI settings have to be adjusted accordingly.
The in game torque should be set first though as well as the Wheelbase max FFB.
My starting point is always
Wheelbase 100%
In game torque 5
In game sensitivity 1
NDP 50
NFR 5
INT 4
FOR as low as necessary
FEI as low as possible
The higher you start pushing the in game torque the higher the NDP has to be adjusted
It's a double sided sword though as you're going to loose some fine granular detail as well as some maximum Torque , but on the other side you'll be awarded with some extremely smooth and weighty driving sensation.
The cars will feel very planted and connected to the surface.
Weight transfers will feel very slow and not snappy.
The Suspension as well as road effects will be very muted but that's how it basically feels like in real life too.
The Wheel itself will only give you the basic feedback like in real life too.
Oversteer
Undeersteer
Weightiness
That is actually one thing I really enjoy and appreciate about the DD+.
You can basically set it up perfectly to your own personal preferences.

Therefore the FFB in general is a very subjective matter.
Some prefer them gamey and unrealistic, others try to replicate the real world sensations the best as possible.
At the end of the day, what matters is the enjoyment and the fun factor.
Each to their own 😁

 

[BWX]

This may or may not be news to you, but when in calibration mode, if you hold the brake pressure at a certain point for something like 3 or 4 seconds the pedals will set that as the new maximum (100%) pressure point.
That may be why your upper dead zone keeps changing?

That's the thing, it was doing that in the GT7 calibration screen with nothing touching the brake pedal. I never remember this happening before.

And it would always go up 10%... well, 10% of 100, not 10% of the remainder of travel after setting lower deadzone, even if I had the lower deadzone at 80%.

Might be more than one thing going on as it was also calibrated so lower level deadzone at 0% would work for a while, then when I went back into calibration setup on GT7 the brake would be registering an input, maybe 0.1 to 2% fluctuating. So it doesn't hold the calibration either. But I did get it to work fine setting the lower deadzone to 2% in GT7 so that's good. I guess most games will allow deadzone adjustment so it should be ok for a while unless it gets worse.

I might just buy a new load cell, or maybe they're still under warranty.

edit- Just thought about it some more... Maybe it's doing that because even though I set lower dead-zone to 2%, it's still seeing that input under 2% and responding to it.

 

[Eliminatorek]

Breaking FFB probably did change and i might not be comfortable with it yet.
But it is worth to mention that, after update my dead zones on pedals seemed to be modified to ca. 1% from which I had it set on (I can miremember to which vale it changed).

Here aslo interestingly I used to drive at ca. 2-5% being set at times of G29, and quite recently tested <0,5% on CSL pedals with good result and positive feeling. Logitech had both less resolution plus potentiometer in gas pedal was very sensitive to dust contamination leading to iritating signal noices and glimpsing inputs. I ended with DIY bellows on the pedal made of kitchen/breakfast plastic bags.

Do you have any experience if dust is a problem also to Fanatec pedals/sensors?

 

[BWX]

I investigated further and took the brake elastomer stack out and cleaned all the dust, etc.. Noticed a little piece of tape or something in between where the pedal hinge and pedal plate come close to touching. It looked like it was stuck to the underside of the pedal footrest plate and was working its way in between the pedal and the footrest. just a tiny little piece of something.. Got it all put back together and re-calibrated, and on PC it was fine. Tested it out in Wreckfest on PC and all good.

Going to test GT7 soon, if it does the same thing in GT7 then I don't know what's going on. Hopefully that fixed it, hopefully it was that little piece of tape or whatever that was messing up the calibration in GT7. 🤷‍♂️

 

[ANDRITSOULAS]

I investigated further and took the brake elastomer stack out and cleaned all the dust, etc.. Noticed a little piece of tape or something in between where the pedal hinge and pedal plate come close to touching. It looked like it was stuck to the underside of the pedal footrest plate and was working its way in between the pedal and the footrest. just a tiny little piece of something.. Got it all put back together and re-calibrated, and on PC it was fine. Tested it out in Wreckfest on PC and all good.

Going to test GT7 soon, if it does the same thing in GT7 then I don't know what's going on. Hopefully that fixed it, hopefully it was that little piece of tape or whatever that was messing up the calibration in GT7. 🤷‍♂️

This "tape" is there to prevent the pedal's body hitting the heelrest. To avoid metallic sounds when releasing the pedal. Like a bump stop. All three pedals have it.

When calibrating pedals you should always have some deadzone.

If you have ghost inputs, check for emi, grounding the rig, or a faulty - broken rj cable .

Putting a couple of ferrite cores about 5cm before the cable's ends helps in most cases.

I had some ghost input with my old wheelbase, the one with disconnections. With the new exchanged one i have nothing. I tried everything and i couldn't find any solution. Probably a lot of emi.

Try the pedals through usb on your pc and try replicate the problem. Before that disconnect the small rj cable that goes from the loadcell to the board box and connect it back again, to let any emi go away. If on your pc everything works perfect then might be anything new additions you made on your set up, any cable, or some new carpet under the rig. Some interference in general.

 

[RS60NR]

My settings felt off since the latest update. I wondered if PD had spent some effort on DD setup for the tokyo series where they used the DD+ this time so I spent some time w the AS auto setup slot on the wheel. I was pretty impressed - felt really good for a range of cars both street and race

Here’s what gets set - these do change from what’s set when the wheel powers on. GT does ID the base as the extreme so I’m pretty sure they are being intentional w this. Figured the Torque 5/ Sens 5 was the likely setting in game

FFB 60
FUL 50 - default from Fanatec - not used yet in GT
NDP 30
NFR 5
NIN OFF
INT 3
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
BLI OFF - if you have CSP v3
SHO ON
BRF 50

BLI and BRF reset if you try and change them in AS so load the settings into a tuning slot to keep them

I later lowered NDP to 25, set in game sens at 7 for a bit tighter feel

 

[FMW]

I wonder if the organizers for these "official" events allow the participants to tune the Fanatec Tuning Menu settings??

 

[super_gt]

Very unlikely.