Pigems
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TYVM Sir. 🍻Yup!
TYVM Sir. 🍻Yup!
Red Bull wasn’t bad and I didn’t do Daytona, but every other race I’ve been in has been a bloodbath in the B lobbies. Even the mixed A lobbies have been bad. Is every single race you guys are in rife with rammers? The people asking for the original penalty system again - are you sure the cycle won't start anew?Admittedly I've only done the Daytona and Red Bull Ring races since the damage update and I don't see what the big deal is. And I have been on the short end of the stick a bunch of times. So far, so good. I've even touched the Daytona wall a few times without getting any damage, which goes against what I've read here; that the slightest graze will destroy your suspension.
I’ve not once touched a wall without at least wheel damage for thirty seconds. It’s a bit much. I like the idea of consequential damage, but when I’m in the receiving end of a dirty punt and they roll off without even a penalty, multiple times in every circuit since 1.20, it irks me. I honestly think the penalties, even when overdone, were a better solution. The wall damage was done only to stop wall riders in order to protect the integrity of their World Series races. The way it’s applied in all races now is a gross over correction. At least in the races I’ve been in.I like the damage. It offers a smidge of realism without sim-nerdifying the game.
We've definitely had different experiences. I'm in low A in the Americas. I've been victimized from time to time but nowhere near so often I find it too frustrating. Then again, I won't touch the Gr4 races with a ten foot pole. Mostly because it doesn't seem even close to balanced and I have no interest in using the same car every single week, not to mention single livery races irk me.Red Bull wasn’t bad and I didn’t do Daytona, but every other race I’ve been in has been a bloodbath in the B lobbies. Even the mixed A lobbies have been bad. Is every single race you guys are in rife with rammers? The people asking for the original penalty system again - are you sure the cycle won't start anew?
Yes. And yes. I’d rather be accidentally penalized with half a second when someone hits me than thirty seconds and lost pace. I’m not doing the hitting but I’m paying the consequences. Not once, not a few times, but probably at least half my races. I don’t think I’m the only one.
I’ve not once touched a wall without at least wheel damage for thirty seconds. It’s a bit much. I like the idea of consequential damage, but when I’m in the receiving end of a dirty punt and they roll off without even a penalty, multiple times in every circuit since 1.20, it irks me. I honestly think the penalties, even when overdone, were a better solution. The wall damage was done only to stop wall riders in order to protect the integrity of their World Series races. The way it’s applied in all races now is a gross over correction. At least in the races I’ve been in.
Your mileage obviously varies, so I’m not saying you’re wrong. But I don’t think most of us are exaggerations either. At least I’m not. I had to quit the A race a couple weeks ago because my safety rating took a huge dive to SR B because of other people’s horribly aggressive driving.
Ugh! I wish they’d make up their mind on these! Honestly, I don’t think the damage was intended to take the place of penalties, merely prevent cheaters. So now, out of an unnecessary overcorrection, we’re all getting caught in this mess instead of the few problem people. All they have to do is time the length of wall contact and apply a penalty. Keep the penalties and add one new one for the cheaters. Instead people like me are getting hammered with all this damage, yet the violators are STILL not getting penalized enough to dissuade their behavior.I like the damage and I also like penalties. What I don't like is the 1.5 second barrier contact penalty. I had a race at Daytona where someone forgot to brake behind me at the chicane on the first lap and sent me flying. I got horrible damage plus a 1.5 second penalty and that obviously makes no sense.
Do it. The Citroen surprised me. it's super stable and you can do the upshift into 3rd on T1 and T-last (same as the Supra and Alfa) since the gears are super short. I think I am going to use it some more. Give it a shot in some TT/quali laps.
I also want to try the Viper now as well.
Awesome! I can imagine the Evo is pretty good. So many good cars here. I did give the Viper a go for a few laps and got it into the 51.9s. It definitely has potential. Same with the Mazda RX Vision. Also tried out the Supra GT500 which was a little harder to drive as the boost just kicks so it's not as stable out of corners.Still not done with testing a bunch of different cars. Apart from the old Ford GT LM II (sadly) and the McLaren, which are both pretty useless (for me), I had similar results (around 52:3 - 52:4) with a lot of them. But the new quickest for me is another surprise:
View attachment 1196631
Awesome! I can imagine the Evo is pretty good.
Welcome to the G29 club!So I finally set up a wheel rig using the G29. Wow, what a difference in steering precision and pedal feel 🎉🎉
After an hour of practice, I'm still almost 1.5 seconds slower than my qualy time for Race B but I know it's a process.
For the wheel players, have 2 questions, in particular for this specific track.
1 - In turn 1, do you guys have to really turn the steering a lot? I'm losing a lot of time having to go to almost full lock! Losing a lot of time gently waiting to straighten the car too as can't really accelerate until it's almost straightened.
Is it possible to reduce the rotation settings of the wheel?
2 - Struggling with the paddles to shift mid corner since wheel is turned. Do you find it best to shift before the turns or after, on exit? General question btw!
Also, catching a drift is a lot harder but more realistic I guess.
Thank you 🙂
The Z4 is one of a few Gr3 cars I've yet to win a race with. This track might be a good shot.Z4 won't work, TBH since the physics change a few updates back the Supra does everything the Z4 does but with more top end.
If C ends up being a fuel saver, the Porsche or BRZ will likely be the META. Fuel save and no stop. We've seen it before. Qualify in the Jag (for example) and race in the BRZ.I shouldn't try and predict how good any of these will be but....lol, what the heck might as well.
Race A looks quite good, never thought I'd say that, but from previous races at Watkins may be a punt fest, but that's to be expected from a Race A. Race B, man thats gonna be one of the longest Race B's ever, might be over 10 mins. The GTR will be the best car i think, so that makes it kinda appealing to me, I'm not great round Spa but maybe next week is my week to change that.
Race C....FML almost impossible to pass anywhere. I'm purely guessing but the only way you will make up any places is by being a boss at saving fuel. The only chink of light that makes this race appealing is it will probably be the MR cars will be the best and they are probably the drivetrain I'm worst at so at the very least I'll do some TT and see how i get on.
Welcome to the G29 club!
1) I don't know the exact amount of steering input required off the top of my head, but it shouldn't be full lock. Keep an eye on your HUD... when the little red dot bottoms out (to the right in this case) your steering is maxed out. Thus, adding more degrees into the wheel does nothing. Unfortunately, there aren't any settings on the G29 to make the steering more sensitive. But, again, just because you're turning the wheel more doesn't mean the game is interpreting that as more steering input.
2) Due to the above, I don't even have to take a hand off the wheel... so even if my right hand is say at the 7 o'clock position (just guessing there as I am not in front of my rig at the moment) I can still upshift without an issue.
And yea, everyone thinks wheel users have an advantage - and generally I'd agree - but going through slow, tight turns as well as catching the car when the rear breaks lose is definitely easier for controller users.
The Z4 is one of a few Gr3 cars I've yet to win a race with. This track might be a good shot.
The Mazda RX, Supra GT500, and AMG 2011 are the others. The Mazda is decent and I could've gotten it twice yesterday but was hit in both races while leading. The AMG 11 is probably garbage. Sometimes it's fun to pick the beta car and see how well one can compete with it. Sometimes it goes really well... other times it's a dumpster fire.
If C ends up being a fuel saver, the Porsche or BRZ will likely be the META. Fuel save and no stop. We've seen it before. Qualify in the Jag (for example) and race in the BRZ.
I do hope there is at least a little bit of strategy... but at least we've not seen this combo yet (I don't think).
Just for fun try running like 10+ laps of race c qualifying or the time trial challenge with the controller sensitivity set at 0 then immediately run another 10+ with controller sensitivity set to 10. You may notice a difference. I also use FFB 2-3 and ffs usually 1-2 but I keep experimenting. Have you calibrate your pedal’s yet ?So I finally set up a wheel rig using the G29. Wow, what a difference in steering precision and pedal feel 🎉🎉
After an hour of practice, I'm still almost 1.5 seconds slower than my qualy time for Race B but I know it's a process.
For the wheel players, have 2 questions, in particular for this specific track.
1 - In turn 1, do you guys have to really turn the steering a lot? I'm losing a lot of time having to go to almost full lock! Losing a lot of time gently waiting to straighten the car too as can't really accelerate until it's almost straightened.
Is it possible to reduce the rotation settings of the wheel?
2 - Struggling with the paddles to shift mid corner since wheel is turned. Do you find it best to shift before the turns or after, on exit? General question btw!
Also, catching a drift is a lot harder but more realistic I guess.
Thank you 🙂
Just for fun try running like 10+ laps of race c qualifying or the time trial challenge with the controller sensitivity set at 0 then immediately run another 10+ with controller sensitivity set to 10. You may notice a difference. I also use FFB 2-3 and ffs usually 1-2 but I keep experimenting. Have you calibrate your pedal’s yet ?
Adjust the brake travel to your personal preference helps a lot. As far as the red dot goes there some additional rotation available even when the dot is maxed out and in cockpit when the wheel visually stops turning the car will turn even tighter.
Do very slow circles in cockpit view and you should be able to see what I’m talking about. 🍻
I shouldn't try and predict how good any of these will be but....lol, what the heck might as well.
Race A looks quite good, never thought I'd say that, but from previous races at Watkins may be a punt fest, but that's to be expected from a Race A. Race B, man thats gonna be one of the longest Race B's ever, might be over 10 mins. The GTR will be the best car i think, so that makes it kinda appealing to me, I'm not great round Spa but maybe next week is my week to change that.
Race C....FML almost impossible to pass anywhere. I'm purely guessing but the only way you will make up any places is by being a boss at saving fuel. The only chink of light that makes this race appealing is it will probably be the MR cars will be the best and they are probably the drivetrain I'm worst at so at the very least I'll do some TT and see how i get on.
I too have just made the switch to a wheel on gt7. Made this during the week while I was off work with flu. Best thing I did!! Knocked 1 second off my qualifying time in race C within 3 laps of trying 🙈🙈 Today I went from D/S to B/S and was having a great evening until the last race. Why do some drivers insist on ramming you out of the way even though you move off the racing line to let them go...boils my p*ss 🤬🤬 And it always seems to be a Spanish driver too!So I finally set up a wheel rig using the G29. Wow, what a difference in steering precision and pedal feel 🎉🎉
After an hour of practice, I'm still almost 1.5 seconds slower than my qualy time for Race B but I know it's a process.
For the wheel players, have 2 questions, in particular for this specific track.
1 - In turn 1, do you guys have to really turn the steering a lot? I'm losing a lot of time having to go to almost full lock! Losing a lot of time gently waiting to straighten the car too as can't really accelerate until it's almost straightened.
Is it possible to reduce the rotation settings of the wheel?
2 - Struggling with the paddles to shift mid corner since wheel is turned. Do you find it best to shift before the turns or after, on exit? General question btw!
Also, catching a drift is a lot harder but more realistic I guess.
Thank you 🙂
Just for fun try running like 10+ laps of race c qualifying or the time trial challenge with the controller sensitivity set at 0 then immediately run another 10+ with controller sensitivity set to 10. You may notice a difference.
I know that’s what the text says (written by PD)🥴 and I only have experience with the Logitech g29 which only uses PlayStation software when on console. Pc is different. Take my opinion for what it’s worth 🍻 give it a hour on 0 then 10. Same track fast car/ downforce. It’s just different.Controller sensitivity is just for people who use the pad. It's the other 2 (FFB Sen & FFB Torque) you need to focus on if your using a wheel.
That's not correct.Controller sensitivity is just for people who use the pad. It's the other 2 (FFB Sen & FFB Torque) you need to focus on if your using a wheel.
I took a day, a single day, off of race B and lost nearly two seconds! Tried a few new cars, kept running my beloved Citröen off the road on the last turn, and got beaten badly. Had to switch back to the 911 to stop the bleeding!Haven't been able to race all week...reasons...until yesterday. Logged on, ran a few quali laps in the beat, entered a race where I was mixed A/B/C rated drivers, and got the FL!!!
By that, I mean ****ing Last. Not only that race, but both races I entered yesterday.
This is not the first time I have stepped away for a week or more, and come back to find I have lost seconds. My QT is at the back of the grid, and I just watch the race walk away. I was clearly behind the curve by Saturday.
The last little bit? I don't remember as I've driven a lot of cars. But, I think slight braking for the soft left, off the brakes to straighten the car out, then heavy on the brakes for the last turn... downshift into 2nd for rotation; at the apex upshift into 3rd and give it the beans.I took a day, a single day, off of race B and lost nearly two seconds! Tried a few new cars, kept running my beloved Citröen off the road on the last turn, and got beaten badly. Had to switch back to the 911 to stop the bleeding!
There were constant ghosts in all my races yesterday, one or two for the entire race. Is that a connection issue or a server issue? They all had 4 or 5 bars for supposed signal strength.
@Talon16 how do you do that last turn in the Citröen?! You can’t figure it out!
Someone has to explain to me this fake ghosted car thing going on recently. It's so annoying. The cars are semi-transparent but you can collide with them. It's not the same as the "real" ghosted cars getting a penalty or spinning out.There were constant ghosts in all my races yesterday, one or two for the entire race. Is that a connection issue or a server issue? They all had 4 or 5 bars for supposed signal strength.
Ok, @Bullwinkle here's an okay lap in the Citroen. T1 was a bit slow and I missed the apex on the last turn a bit but you get the idea. Was a 52.1 but if I fixed the two above issues, definitely in the 51s.I took a day, a single day, off of race B and lost nearly two seconds! Tried a few new cars, kept running my beloved Citröen off the road on the last turn, and got beaten badly. Had to switch back to the 911 to stop the bleeding!
There were constant ghosts in all my races yesterday, one or two for the entire race. Is that a connection issue or a server issue? They all had 4 or 5 bars for supposed signal strength.
@Talon16 how do you do that last turn in the Citröen?! You can’t figure it out!
I used 540 degree rotation on my g29. I think the red dot represents max grip. You can turn more once the dot reaches max but you will start to understeer. On a side note, has anyone noticed the water level goes up and down as you move off a dry line to the wet? Has this always been there?So I finally set up a wheel rig using the G29. Wow, what a difference in steering precision and pedal feel 🎉🎉
After an hour of practice, I'm still almost 1.5 seconds slower than my qualy time for Race B but I know it's a process.
For the wheel players, have 2 questions, in particular for this specific track.
1 - In turn 1, do you guys have to really turn the steering a lot? I'm losing a lot of time having to go to almost full lock! Losing a lot of time gently waiting to straighten the car too as can't really accelerate until it's almost straightened.
Is it possible to reduce the rotation settings of the wheel?
2 - Struggling with the paddles to shift mid corner since wheel is turned. Do you find it best to shift before the turns or after, on exit? General question btw!
Also, catching a drift is a lot harder but more realistic I guess.
Thank you 🙂
That's not correct.
How you explain it is how it should work in theory, however controller sensitivity does absolutely affect wheel force feedback in GT, even though there is a separate setting for FFB sensitivity.
I know that’s what the text says (written by PD)🥴 and I only have experience with the Logitech g29 which only uses PlayStation software when on console. Pc is different. Take my opinion for what it’s worth 🍻 give it a hour on 0 then 10. Same track fast car/ downforce. It’s just different.
For more fun map L3/R3 buttons for brake and throttle. It’s different as well. Idk I could be wrong, it’s happened once before🤙🏽 Thanks for the reply 🍻