Legendary cars dealer refresh
- Thread starter sejtur
- 9,236 comments
- 1,241,034 views
- 389
- My own anime world
- HighWayStar_365
- 832
- United States
The 250 GT '61 can win it pretty easily around 630PP on RH's. I've not used the 250 GTO much at all since I'm about 90% sure they're the same copy/paste car with some cosmetic differences, just like the Carrera RS '95 and Carrera RS CS '95. They aren't a total 1:1 as one cannot match the torque when trying to precisely replicate the specs, but they're close enough the same tune works for either the GT or the GTO.
The GT is "only" ~9mil and should be coming up in a week or two. I'd definitely recommend it first over the GTO, though the GTO does have a cooler aesthetic imo. GT is capable of a lower weight, 70ish more HP, and costs less that half so it's definitely the better bargain. GTO is awesome as well, not knocking it by any means, and should we ever get any pre-'65 races that are exclusive to race cars it'll be nice to have, I just don't know how many years that'll be (if ever)
Last edited:
FerrariF40
(Banned)
- 404
- Australia
Alpine please
- 35
- United Kingdom
I've tried to find somewhere that shows the last time all the Hagerty Collection cars appeared with predicted next appearance dates. I found this https://ddm999.github.io/gt7info/#bop-section but it only shows 12. I can see from these there is a circa 70ish cycle time which seems odd as I think there are 64 cars, 10 slots and on the few I have watched from start to finish, a 9 day "show" time - that would indicate a 58 day cycle time. I think I have seen a prediction of 16th August 2022 for the 917K but if anyone knows the last time any of the others appeared and insight into cycle times, much appreaciated.
| Make | Model | Year | Price |
| Alfa Romeo | 8C 2900B Lungo Berlinetta | 1937 | 20,000,000.00 |
| Alpine | A220 | 1968 | 300,000.00 |
| Jaguar | D-Type | 1954 | 6,000,000.00 |
| McLaren | F1 | 1994 | 19,400,000.00 |
| Porsche | Spyder Type 550/1500 RS | 1955 | 5,000,000.00 |
| Porsche | 917K | 1970 | 18,000,000.00 |
- 254
- Poland
Legendary cars dealer refresh
Damn those BMW Z cars, lol. Could have sworn it was the Z4 Roadster we had in the game and totally forgot about the GT3 Z4 even being in the game. You're right though, I was thinking of the Z8. Z8's engine code is S62B50
www.gtplanet.net
- 1,035
- Portugal
Where did I day you cant do a mix of races? I simply made a comparison between 2 races and gave my reasons why I think one is better than the other. I never said you cant a mix of races. You can do whatever you want.
If you say doing a race over and over again you get bored and play less.
Then what happens to your mind when you lose a race because of a dark blue cloud that came out of nowhere after you leave the pit with tyres for dry track?
Or if you see a dark blue cloud coming, go to the pits, change to wet tyres, and then the wind changes direction, making the cloud go away, leaving you with wet tyres on a dry track?
Those random things annoy the hell out of me, and are IMO worse than repeating a race over and over.
I used to farm in le mans, but that annoying variable weather made me stop and go to tokyo instead.
And if you do the race with different cars each time, makes things less boring.
Try doing tokyo with a combination of different cars. There are cars so different from one another that is like if it was a completely different race. I actually learned o lot about tunning cars just from testing different tunes in this race. Trust me, you will enjoy it
I find the randomness of the weather makes the races more interesting. I can do Spa relatively often without getting bored , because the race is often different as a result of the rain. If I lose 1 race in 10 because of bad luck, I don't mind.
But to each his own I guess.
- 223
- United States
I see zero reason to buy the Pennzoil GTR over the Castrol Supra
- 1,390
- Tennessee
- tnfedexman
Nissan>Toyota
- 832
- United States
Indeed. That car's like 2 weeks overdue.
They've both got their strengths and weaknesses. Supra is better on fuel and tire wear so I prefer it in "endurance" over the GTR. GTR seems to be the quicker car if you go above 730PP, and pretty consistently runs quicker laps when unrestricted or set to 750PP. Not sure how each responds to BoP as I see PD's implementation of that system as the scourge of the series and never engage with it.
Both are iconic cars that have one thing in common: they were almost certainly neutered in their max allowable downforce values so that they can be crammed into Gr. 3 with the other misfit toys like the '95 F1 GTR and Ford GTE. As if we don't already have enough cars in the GT3/Gr.3 category, meanwhile we've got what, 8 Gr. 2? lol
- 944
- Las Vegas, USA
- Bobby-Vegas
I've tried multiple setups on the '62 GTO for that race, very frustrating while the '61 250GT is a joy to drive and easy win. NO custom wings on my classics. Dare to say the 250GTO is as bad as the concept Vette, truly a shame.
Any thoughts on the two Countachs?
On one side you have the lighter, sleeker older machine on the LP400 and on the other side you have the newer, heavier and more powerful 25th Anniversary Editions.
I feel like the 25th Anniversary Edition is probably the more iconic car but that the LP400 will be a better car to drive?
On one side you have the lighter, sleeker older machine on the LP400 and on the other side you have the newer, heavier and more powerful 25th Anniversary Editions.
I feel like the 25th Anniversary Edition is probably the more iconic car but that the LP400 will be a better car to drive?
- 132
- Milwaukee, WI
- 1,035
- Portugal
Did tokyo wtc600 with both fully tuned with similar tunning settings. The 25th aniv countach has a bit of understeer and its very stable, the lcd countach is unstable at high speeds and tailspin happy. Straight line speed they are close. IMO 25th aniv countach is the better of the 2. But i will try more tunes on the lcd countach see if I can make it more competitive.
- 132
- Milwaukee, WI
Any 700 tunes for Le Mans or advice on tightening up handling a bit on the LM400? Doesn't drive too bad. Fast on straights. Just a bit of a boat.
Last edited:
Interesting comments regarding the newer Countach being very stable and having a bit of understeer and then on the opposite hand the older one being more tail happy...
I definitely prefer my older cars to feel looser. To try and almost glide them through the corners with the likes of lift off oversteer and powersliding them around the bends. The newer Lambo in the S license test felt really stiff apart from a bit of rear end action under power. I'd definitely wouldn't want it to drive like that.
Seems like this guy with I'm going to say is a mid 80s Countach, successfully dials out the understeer with some aggressive driving!
Last edited:
I like both a lot. The Supra is a bit better in standard tune as the GTR is quite a bit understeery. But with a good suspension tune, both are great. The Nissan a bit more stable and slightly faster on the straight, the Supra a bit more nimble.
- 832
- United States
The older one in the LCD is deceptively quick when you get it dialed in. I think mine's at like 655PP on Sports Softs but it'll run laps as quick as many cars at 700pp. The 25th I've never really cared for and at an equal PP level it's slower and plodding in comparison, especially when driving them back-to-back. Idk, I think the LP400 is the better of the two and worth the credit price whereas PD could delete the 25th's I have and I'd probably never know they are missing, lol.
- 477
- opelman31
I bought two of them.
- 1,035
- Portugal
Haven't done le mans in months. But since both tokyo and le mans have long straights in common, I supose the some settings should sufice.
Countach LCD
Suspension:
Height*****
Anti roll bar 10/4
Compression 38/34
Expansion 45/46
Frequency 2.90/2.95
Camber 3.0/2.5
Toe 0.10 left/0.20 right
Lsd:
Initial 0/20
Aceleration 0/10
Brake 0/20
Transmission
Final gear about 350 or 360 should do.
In the suspension height I usually put the front higher than the rear because that susbstantially lowers the PP, then I can put those PP to hp or to lower ballast weight, but that will increase the understeer. If you, at full hp are going above 700pp, tinker with the suspension height. The lower the rear height and higher the front height are, the bigger the PP drops. So tinker with that until you get below 700pp.
If you are having trouble with tailspin try adding 200kg ballast positioned 50 to the rear and brake balance 5 to the rear. That will slightly mitigate the tailspin. But since you are using racing tyres in le mans (you usually use sports tyres on tokyo), the extra grip will probably help out. Tcs will also be your friend here.
Another thing not to forget is the more hp you have, the faster your fuel will drain. If your fuel is draining too fast (even in fm6), try lowering the hp slightly (and correcting that in the suspension height as well to get to 700pp).
Final thing: LCD countach brakes are shaite on sports tyres. I dont know the impact of going racing tyres, but it might be a good ideia to early brake.
- 132
- Milwaukee, WI
Thanks much! I'll give it a try!
- 132
- Milwaukee, WI
Decided to get the Pennzoil Nissan and drove both on Le Mans WTC 700 this morning.
Won in the Nissan by about 50 seconds. Weather helped. FM3 or 4 pitting once for IMs after lap 3. Heavy rain helped me pass the field. Stayed out on IMs until the end.
Came in third with the Supra, battling Haywood tooth and nail the last two laps for that third spot. FM3 one stop pitting after lap 4. Took IMs hoping for heavier rain. With light rain I couldn't catch McEwan and Portillo. FM1 the last three laps.
Nice cars, both easy to drive. A little slow top speed for Le Mans...
- 300
- United Kingdom
Similar threads
