The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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I am now the proud owner of a Ferrari GTE wheel. :D

I freaking love this thing, paddles mounted on the wheel rather than fixed paddles is the way to go!

I still have to get used to the fact the face buttons are now buttons around the wheel. That's really the only thing I can gripe about.
 
Azure Flare
I am now the proud owner of a Ferrari GTE wheel. :D

I freaking love this thing, paddles mounted on the wheel rather than fixed paddles is the way to go!

I still have to get used to the fact the face buttons are now buttons around the wheel. That's really the only thing I can gripe about.
Click to expand...
How do you find the relative force feedback between the GTE and GT rims?
 
The FFB on the GTE is more intense due the weight and the wheel diameter being smaller.

I have the FFB set to 10 with power steering off on GT6, and I don't think I'll change that. I still need to try F1 2013 with it.
 
Interesting. I've been swapping my GT and GTE rims regularly, but I keep returning to the GT rim. At least in GT6 (where I use FFB=3 for most cars now, power steering off) it seems that the nuances of feedback given by the larger and lighter GT rim enhance my enjoyment, make the cars feel more alive. In comparison the GTE rim is smooth and crisp but you feel the road less (not always a bad thing, admittedly).

I have no issue with the fixed paddles, so that probably influences my preference compared to guys who prefer moving paddles.

Still, I must find some more time with both rims on the PC, see how the two compare in all the various PC sims. :)
 
skazz
Interesting. I've been swapping my GT and GTE rims regularly, but I keep returning to the GT rim. At least in GT6 (where I use FFB=3 for most cars now, power steering off) it seems that the nuances of feedback given by the larger and lighter GT rim enhance my enjoyment, make the cars feel more alive. In comparison the GTE rim is smooth and crisp but you feel the road less (not always a bad thing, admittedly).

I have no issue with the fixed paddles, so that probably influences my preference compared to guys who prefer moving paddles.
Click to expand...
Anything over 5 feels like too much. Like the wheel is giving extra resistance when there SHOULDN'T be any. An s2000 should not feel like a 1970 challenger with no power steering.
Have you noticed the FFB getting progressively weaker as the game gets updated?
 
eSZee
Anything over 5 feels like too much. Like the wheel is giving extra resistance when there SHOULDN'T be any. An s2000 should not feel like a 1970 challenger with no power steering.
Have you noticed the FFB getting progressively weaker as the game gets updated?
Click to expand...

I think FF is the exception to 5, I like it at 6 or 7 for most FF...
...but for all other drive trains I mostly set at 4, sometimes 5.
Does seem to have weakened a bit since initial launch version.
 
I was wondering if the T500 RS fits with the wheel stand pro V1, I am stressing the V1 because I can't seem to find anything about it. Also do the peddles have to be mounted in the f1 style? I'm imminently going to buy one but not sure if I need a new wheel stand.
 
Scraping Noises

Has anyone ever heard of this? Or know what the possible issue could be. When I turn the wheel, even with it turned off, it's got some fairly abrasive scraping sounds happening. I'm not talking the minor "hard drive clicking" sounds, I'm talking something quite a bit louder and just sounding like it's scraping.

I've got everything disassembled right now and I'm baffled. All of the belts still look brand new. I thought maybe a cable got loose and was scraping a belt mechanism, but there's nothing. What's worse, I'm having a hard time even isolating it.

EDIT: I can upload to youtube if somebody really thinks it'll do them good, but what a PITA otherwise.
 
I think uploading a video of it will make it easier to hear if it's anything anyone've tried, @Paul33993. 👍 But from what you describe, it's not something I currently experience.
 
wow, just got the chance to drive GT6 with a T500 and wow, what a difference compared to the poor driver integration for Logitechs and Fanatecs... With Fanatecs GT3 RS v2 I can only feel a constant spring force, no road action and no curb action even at FFB 10 in game.. With T500 Is have to turn it down to 4 because the FFB is so powerful, you can feel every bump and curb with it...
 
Paul33993
Scraping Noises

Has anyone ever heard of this? Or know what the possible issue could be. When I turn the wheel, even with it turned off, it's got some fairly abrasive scraping sounds happening. I'm not talking the minor "hard drive clicking" sounds, I'm talking something quite a bit louder and just sounding like it's scraping.

I've got everything disassembled right now and I'm baffled. All of the belts still look brand new. I thought maybe a cable got loose and was scraping a belt mechanism, but there's nothing. What's worse, I'm having a hard time even isolating it.

EDIT: I can upload to youtube if somebody really thinks it'll do them good, but what a PITA otherwise.
Click to expand...
Is it hard mounted? If so did you make sure to use bolts of 15mm length or less?
 
Simracer92
wow, just got the chance to drive GT6 with a T500 and wow, what a difference compared to the poor driver integration for Logitechs and Fanatecs... With Fanatecs GT3 RS v2 I can only feel a constant spring force, no road action and no curb action even at FFB 10 in game.. With T500 Is have to turn it down to 4 because the FFB is so powerful, you can feel every bump and curb with it...
Click to expand...

Yeah, all other wheels are definitely receiving poor FFB as I said a while back (in the Fanatec thread I think). A shame really.
This is the reason why I mounted my T500 again, plus it seems to have better support in PC titles as well (from my experience). Just waiting for Basher to finish his CSP adapter for the T500, as I do prefer the CSPv2 over the T500 pedals. I'll just have to switch shifters to the ones I desire for what platform. Which is easy to do as I just use the table clamp (which works better than the bendy rSeat hard mount).
 
ROB 256R
Is it hard mounted? If so did you make sure to use bolts of 15mm length or less?
Click to expand...

It's hard mounted, but not the issue. I've isolated the sound down, I'll post a picture later and see if anyone has any thoughts.

I go back to it every 30 minutes or so with a flashlight and try to have new inspiration.

EDIT:

This is where the noise is coming from. To the best of my knowledge. If I blindly spin the wheel around, it's where I always think it's coming from. So I don't think there's any bias or my results would be random.

isElvQG.jpg


Going down the youtube rabbit hole right now. Seems like there are quite a few fixs on noise. Maybe I'll stumble on something useful.

I've shined a flashlight from every angle. And nothing is rubbing to cause this noise. I almost think I should try and put a little lube around where the cylinder enters the motor. But I'm not going to do something that extreme unless I have sound advice on that.

Wheel works perfectly fine right now, but it's not a healthy sound and I'm skeptical it won't get worse if just left this way.
 
Last edited:
skazz
Interesting. I've been swapping my GT and GTE rims regularly, but I keep returning to the GT rim. At least in GT6 (where I use FFB=3 for most cars now, power steering off) it seems that the nuances of feedback given by the larger and lighter GT rim enhance my enjoyment, make the cars feel more alive. In comparison the GTE rim is smooth and crisp but you feel the road less (not always a bad thing, admittedly).

I have no issue with the fixed paddles, so that probably influences my preference compared to guys who prefer moving paddles.

Still, I must find some more time with both rims on the PC, see how the two compare in all the various PC sims. :)
Click to expand...

For me it seems bigger is better. I started out with the F1 rim and an aftermarket 320 mm rim. In the beginning the 320 mm appeared humongous and I thought I preferred the F1 rim. With time the 320 mm rim won me over. Then I got a 350 mm rim and now the 320 mm rim feels ridiculously small and wonder if I don´t need a 380 mm rim lol.
 
Knock on wood, I think I've fixed the wheel with some Valvoline lube (that I bought last week for the shifter.) I've got all the noise eliminated, but I haven't finished reassembling and test driving it.

oqvist
For me it seems bigger is better. I started out with the F1 rim and an aftermarket 320 mm rim. In the beginning the 320 mm appeared humongous and I thought I preferred the F1 rim. With time the 320 mm rim won me over. Then I got a 350 mm rim and now the 320 mm rim feels ridiculously small and wonder if I don´t need a 380 mm rim lol.
Click to expand...

It's never ending isn't it. I think I'm going to pretend I didn't read this and just be happy with my 330mm.
 
I noticed Simracer92
wow, just got the chance to drive GT6 with a T500 and wow, what a difference compared to the poor driver integration for Logitechs and Fanatecs... With Fanatecs GT3 RS v2 I can only feel a constant spring force, no road action and no curb action even at FFB 10 in game.. With T500 Is have to turn it down to 4 because the FFB is so powerful, you can feel every bump and curb with it...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I noticed the same thing. The T500 FFB is much better than the CSW FFB in GT6. That is partly why I sold my CSW and switched back to the T500.
 
Paul33993
It's hard mounted, but not the issue. I've isolated the sound down, I'll post a picture later and see if anyone has any thoughts.

I go back to it every 30 minutes or so with a flashlight and try to have new inspiration.

EDIT:

This is where the noise is coming from. To the best of my knowledge. If I blindly spin the wheel around, it's where I always think it's coming from. So I don't think there's any bias or my results would be random.

isElvQG.jpg


Going down the youtube rabbit hole right now. Seems like there are quite a few fixs on noise. Maybe I'll stumble on something useful.

I've shined a flashlight from every angle. And nothing is rubbing to cause this noise. I almost think I should try and put a little lube around where the cylinder enters the motor. But I'm not going to do something that extreme unless I have sound advice on that.

Wheel works perfectly fine right now, but it's not a healthy sound and I'm skeptical it won't get worse if just left this way.
Click to expand...
Looks like your belt has wandered too close to the motor mount...

http://omdidit.blogspot.com/2013/08/how-to-dismantle-thrustmaster-t500-rs.html

Look at the 10th pic, your belt should be a little more centered on the drive gear.
 
eSZee
Anything over 5 feels like too much. Like the wheel is giving extra resistance when there SHOULDN'T be any. An s2000 should not feel like a 1970 challenger with no power steering.
Have you noticed the FFB getting progressively weaker as the game gets updated?
Click to expand...

Back when v1.03 came out I deleted all of the patches to test game's physics. I did find that the FF for the t500rs to be considerably stronger in v1.01. I had it set to 3 and even still the whole wheel would vibrate when I went in reverse, and turning felt heavier. After updating again to v1.03 it wasn't anywhere near that strong.
 
LogiForce
Yeah, all other wheels are definitely receiving poor FFB as I said a while back (in the Fanatec thread I think). A shame really.
This is the reason why I mounted my T500 again, plus it seems to have better support in PC titles as well (from my experience). Just waiting for Basher to finish his CSP adapter for the T500, as I do prefer the CSPv2 over the T500 pedals. I'll just have to switch shifters to the ones I desire for what platform. Which is easy to do as I just use the table clamp (which works better than the bendy rSeat hard mount).
Click to expand...

yeah, it feels like driving a completely different sim with a T500.. With Fanatec wheel I didnt liked GT6 FFB but with a T500 I'm really impressed and could enjoy the game again..
 
Gunstar
Looks like your belt has wandered too close to the motor mount...

http://omdidit.blogspot.com/2013/08/how-to-dismantle-thrustmaster-t500-rs.html

Look at the 10th pic, your belt should be a little more centered on the drive gear.
Click to expand...

I don't know if this is normal or not, but my belt kind of moves depending on wheel location. If I crank the wheel all the way one way, the belt will align towards the center (like in the picture). If I then crank it the opposite direction, it'll end up towards the motor.

I don't see any wobble in the gears, so I'm going to assume it's relatively normal. Although maybe it isn't. The thing is, even when the belt was in the center like in that picture, turning it would still cause the noise.

Like I said, the strategically placed lube has eliminated all the noise. Hopefully the solution is just that simple.
 
Fantomas666
I was wondering if the T500 RS fits with the wheel stand pro V1, I am stressing the V1 because I can't seem to find anything about it. Also do the peddles have to be mounted in the f1 style? I'm imminently going to buy one but not sure if I need a new wheel stand.
Click to expand...

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T500RS/T500_RS_Cockpit_Fixations.pdf , check the hard Mount holes on your WSP, i run a WSP Deluxe (before V2´s) so i think you are fine.

And sure you can Mount pedals in GT style, you just have to make DIY mounts - witch can be done several different ways, quickly done and at a very low Price.
 
Paul33993
I don't know if this is normal or not, but my belt kind of moves depending on wheel location. If I crank the wheel all the way one way, the belt will align towards the center (like in the picture). If I then crank it the opposite direction, it'll end up towards the motor.

I don't see any wobble in the gears, so I'm going to assume it's relatively normal. Although maybe it isn't. The thing is, even when the belt was in the center like in that picture, turning it would still cause the noise.

Like I said, the strategically placed lube has eliminated all the noise. Hopefully the solution is just that simple.
Click to expand...

This means you have a small belt misalignment. Your pulleys' axes aren't parallel. This is probably your motor just a smidge crooked. When the belt pulls different directions on reverse rotation that is a dead giveaway of misalignment. It doesn't take much misalignment for this to happen. As long as it isn't running hard enough on the side of the belt to damage the belt or cause a lot of excess drag I wouldn't worry about it.
 
I really wish the GTE wheel is as big as the GT wheel. But I like GTE's button placement better. Fixed to rotating paddles I really can do with either way, though it depends on cars. GTE wheel feels more like that G25 size that I am used to, but GT wheel feels like a car wheel which is more realistic.
 
RacingManiac
GTE wheel feels more like that G25 size that I am used to.
Click to expand...
It's funny... After using the GT rim you get the impression that the GTE rim is small, but it's slightly larger diameter than the G25 (27 vs. 28 cm, I put them against each other and the GTE rim was clearly slightly larger).
 
eKretz
This means you have a small belt misalignment. Your pulleys' axes aren't parallel. This is probably your motor just a smidge crooked. When the belt pulls different directions on reverse rotation that is a dead giveaway of misalignment. It doesn't take much misalignment for this to happen. As long as it isn't running hard enough on the side of the belt to damage the belt or cause a lot of excess drag I wouldn't worry about it.
Click to expand...

I purchased this T500 back when Amazon had a good deal during Black Friday. So it's about 14 months old. Never had any issue until just recently. Could this suddenly just develop, or do you suspect it was always there?

Won't lie in that I got the final squeak out by dabbing a little lube onto the gears the belt rests on.

Couple other points: the belt stays relatively stationary unless I really spin the wheel. If I really torque it (so it spins hard), that's when it would more easily shift locations from middle to edge. Would this make any difference?

Final question (sorry): Do you think this could have been caused by the steering column? I purchased a wheel adapter for a Momo wheel a little while ago and it's not the greatest fit. Never really contacted the seller because it didn't seem like the biggest issue and I didn't want to be a nuisance, but after I tightened up my steering column with 16mm screws (so there was no wobble there), it's difficult to get a good lock on my wheel now (since all energy is transferring to this weakest link now). The wheel will often torque it's way loose (and the little screw that "tightens" it is useless to stop it). I've found I can sometimes find a fit that allows me to get a decent grip, but it's tricky). Do you think this could in any way have played a role? Do I need to stop using this right now? I have a hard time imagining how it could have caused this issue, but the timing makes me a little worried. My GTE rim still locks onto the rim like it's superglued, so it's definitely the adapter on the Momo.
 

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